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There really isn't anything quality made that works half as well out there at the moment, niche product but would certainly sell to the suppressor folks like me for cleaning. I'll admit I've also used it for cleaning other non-suppressor things with similar issues of access.Do existing options not fit the mold? I could see combining a metal printed tip with the right placement of holes with existing small "pipe" that wouldn't be so egregiously long-but it would be way more expensive than the made in china options.
Question, does the plastic shield on the lance move toward the hose so the metal part extends into the can or is it just fixed to the working end?There really isn't anything quality made that works half as well out there at the moment, niche product but would certainly sell to the suppressor folks like me for cleaning. I'll admit I've also used it for cleaning other non-suppressor things with similar issues of access.
I still just toss it into the US. I found out soon enough not to wait for 1000+ rounds before cleaning if at all possible.Fully welded sealed suppressors....
You clean your suppressor after every time you shoot it?
Sadly, I do not have one of his barrels. but I have a lot of rifles and pistols and make it a priority to take care of them and keep them clean.That is a new level of OCD.
PS, don't tell Frank Green if you're using his barrels, lol
Yes, it's basically a splash guard on a spring, and is great for not getting shitwater everywhere and on you given some suppressor geometries, one of the reasons I'd like a quality stand-alone product.Question, does the plastic shield on the lance move toward the hose so the metal part extends into the can or is it just fixed to the working end?
Ah, ok...so the wand part extends into the can by compressing a spring. Thanks for the reply.Yes, it's basically a splash guard on a spring, and is great for not getting shitwater everywhere and on you given some suppressor geometries, one of the reasons I'd like a quality stand-alone product.
Not that I know of other than the boretech wand thing2(Sets) Pressure Washer Sewer Jetter Nozzle with 1/4'' Quickly Connector,Pressure Drain Jet Hose Nozzle https://a.co/d/6lC9QQP
Something like this but smaller hasn’t been made yet?
The wand was essential for my starting point which was way too late to begin cleaning it was a 33 day process every day rinse, soak and blast. Having said that I don't even need the wand any longer I just keep a bike bottle of old CLR and drop it in every 500 rounds.....rinse in sink after 24 hours....goes right back to factory weight.Ah, ok...so the wand part extends into the can by compressing a spring. Thanks for the reply.
I just wish the damn thing (the kit) wasn't so expensive. I too get crap all over the place taking a hose to the can after soaking in carbon remover. And...I think the wand would do a better job than just putting a hose nozzle against one end of the can.
Cheers
I'll give you $30 for your boretech wandAmazon had a prime sale on ultrasonics
What do I need to know about using it in cans
Still need to get this bore tech thing out the box a year later
I got a wand your wife can use for $30I'll give you $30 for your boretech wand
Deal, she's on suppressor cleaning duty now. I can't pass on a good deal.I got a wand your wife can use for $30
Well, you know that you can’t just put it that way and leave without at least dropping your suggestions for cleaning them properly right?Without getting deep here, but because someone tagged me, a significant majority of suppressor issues we see are due to people cleaning them improperly, or getting cleaning solvent in them and leaving it (this includes cleaning a rifle with the suppressor still on and letting the suppressor work as a solvent trap).
Just like owning a borescope, before you start cleaning a suppressor, make sure you know what you're doing, or you're going to cause you and the manufacturer more headaches than are likely necessary.
The best option right now, besides the purpose made Bore Tech wand is to try to find a really thin pressure washer wand, cut it off so you can still hold your suppressor in one hand and insert the wand with the other, thread the new tip and screw a bolt into the end to stop it up and drill a bunch of small holes into it. It's tough to know how thick the wands are from product websites tho. Supposedly this one is 1/4".
View attachment 8282418View attachment 8282419
We need the details on how this was built. I have a couple of PW guns laying around.That's not a1/4" piece of pipe. It has the 1/4" NPT thread. If you've ever aired up your tires, the hose generally has the 1/4 NPT.
1/4 NPT fits into most pressure washer wands if you remove the end piece.
You can make your own wand with a handle, a modified 1/4 NPT and air cleaning wand from Harbor Freight.
View attachment 8283523
Yeah, I know it's a 1/4 NPT. But their website states the size is also 1/4" but the way it's vague it could be not true. That's why I said "supposedly ". I was queuing up the fact that's not an easy homemade solution bc I don't think you can find a wand small enough to fit in a suppressor.
Talk to the manufacturer, but for us, we want Mavericks sent in so that we can fully disassemble, fully clean (we do it in an ultrasonic with Simple Green, nothing crazy), and MOST IMPORTANTLY - fully dry the components. In general I think centerfire suppressors need to be cleaned much less than people do it, but if you must clean, getting it PERFECTLY dry inside is the most important advice I can give. Moisture becomes glue in there, and once it starts to build up it only builds faster and faster.Well, you know that you can’t just put it that way and leave without at least dropping your suggestions for cleaning them properly right?
What works best to fully dry. Compressed air or ovenTalk to the manufacturer, but for us, we want Mavericks sent in so that we can fully disassemble, fully clean (we do it in an ultrasonic with Simple Green, nothing crazy), and MOST IMPORTANTLY - fully dry the components. In general I think centerfire suppressors need to be cleaned much less than people do it, but if you must clean, getting it PERFECTLY dry inside is the most important advice I can give. Moisture becomes glue in there, and once it starts to build up it only builds faster and faster.
Both can work, given appropriate measures. Don't overthink it, just make sure you're fully clean and fully dry, to the best of your ability.What works best to fully dry. Compressed air or oven
Or a round or two through the can will blast out any moisture.What works best to fully dry. Compressed air or oven
Amazon product ASIN B07GDPQY9FDo existing options not fit the mold? I could see combining a metal printed tip with the right placement of holes with existing small "pipe" that wouldn't be so egregiously long-but it would be way more expensive than the made in china options.
Food dehydrator. Same one I used to dry my brass.What works best to fully dry. Compressed air or oven
I put mine in the traeger. It makes jerky too.Food dehydrator. Same one I used to dry my brass.
Thanks. That’s actually a great answer. Appreciate it.Talk to the manufacturer, but for us, we want Mavericks sent in so that we can fully disassemble, fully clean (we do it in an ultrasonic with Simple Green, nothing crazy), and MOST IMPORTANTLY - fully dry the components. In general I think centerfire suppressors need to be cleaned much less than people do it, but if you must clean, getting it PERFECTLY dry inside is the most important advice I can give. Moisture becomes glue in there, and once it starts to build up it only builds faster and faster.
?? Really wrong thread. Did you mean to post this here?Does anyone happen to know the weight of a new Omega w/ flat end cap and the 5/8x24 direct thread mount that comes with it?
If I had to guess, he’s wondering how much buildup/weight is in it?? Really wrong thread. Did you mean to post this here?
I guess I could’ve started with “since some of you guys were talking about weighing cans” related to the need for cleaning them…?? Really wrong thread. Did you mean to post this here?
Any update on "the pig dick"?View attachment 8295108I made what I shall call “the pig dick” today Took a scrap piece of 1/4” ss tubing, welded a ss dowel pin in the end, drilled two small holes through the tube (for a total of 4 holes) and put a swage to 1/4” NPT fitting on the other end. This should connect to the pressure washer qd fitting. I will report back when I try it out.
Not yet, it may be a while since I just cleaned my dirtiest can recently.Any update on "the pig dick"?
Never thought in my life I'd type a sentence like that