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Bore Tech Suppressor cleaner

Do existing options not fit the mold? I could see combining a metal printed tip with the right placement of holes with existing small "pipe" that wouldn't be so egregiously long-but it would be way more expensive than the made in china options.
 
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Do existing options not fit the mold? I could see combining a metal printed tip with the right placement of holes with existing small "pipe" that wouldn't be so egregiously long-but it would be way more expensive than the made in china options.
There really isn't anything quality made that works half as well out there at the moment, niche product but would certainly sell to the suppressor folks like me for cleaning. I'll admit I've also used it for cleaning other non-suppressor things with similar issues of access.
 
There really isn't anything quality made that works half as well out there at the moment, niche product but would certainly sell to the suppressor folks like me for cleaning. I'll admit I've also used it for cleaning other non-suppressor things with similar issues of access.
Question, does the plastic shield on the lance move toward the hose so the metal part extends into the can or is it just fixed to the working end?
 
That is a new level of OCD.

PS, don't tell Frank Green if you're using his barrels, lol
Sadly, I do not have one of his barrels. but I have a lot of rifles and pistols and make it a priority to take care of them and keep them clean.

I'd be interested to hear Frank's views on the subject however. Perhaps I'll search for any posts where he talks about cleaning.

Its interesting, the hardest barrels for me to clean are brand new one's with only test shots fired that have sat on some shelf before being sold. I worked 3 hours on my latest Colt 20" barrel for an A1 build. It was filthy and did not want to get clean.

Cans, bolts and such are easy, just toss them in the Ultrasonic, soak them in some kerosene and viola.
 
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Question, does the plastic shield on the lance move toward the hose so the metal part extends into the can or is it just fixed to the working end?
Yes, it's basically a splash guard on a spring, and is great for not getting shitwater everywhere and on you given some suppressor geometries, one of the reasons I'd like a quality stand-alone product.
 
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Yes, it's basically a splash guard on a spring, and is great for not getting shitwater everywhere and on you given some suppressor geometries, one of the reasons I'd like a quality stand-alone product.
Ah, ok...so the wand part extends into the can by compressing a spring. Thanks for the reply.

I just wish the damn thing (the kit) wasn't so expensive. I too get crap all over the place taking a hose to the can after soaking in carbon remover. And...I think the wand would do a better job than just putting a hose nozzle against one end of the can.

Cheers
 
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Can't someone just make a quick connection that fits a pressure washer quick connect tip and that will let us screw our hub mount on it or that has a 5/8x24 thread so we can screw the can on and blast it with a pressure washer?
 
I broke down and bought the kit. Yeah the wand is the deal maker. It works. I used all their fluid up and then went to using my own stuff. Primarily M Pro 7 sold in bulk as an aircraft decarbon product. Stuff works well. I expect any cleaner of choice soaked for 24 hours would work fine also....the wand is the best part of the system. The wand blows out chunks of carbon after a soak in cleaner. For the hell of it I used it on some of my rimfire cans after soaking without disassembling them. They were probably 90% spotless when I took them apart.
 
Ah, ok...so the wand part extends into the can by compressing a spring. Thanks for the reply.

I just wish the damn thing (the kit) wasn't so expensive. I too get crap all over the place taking a hose to the can after soaking in carbon remover. And...I think the wand would do a better job than just putting a hose nozzle against one end of the can.

Cheers
The wand was essential for my starting point which was way too late to begin cleaning it was a 33 day process every day rinse, soak and blast. Having said that I don't even need the wand any longer I just keep a bike bottle of old CLR and drop it in every 500 rounds.....rinse in sink after 24 hours....goes right back to factory weight.
 
Without getting deep here, but because someone tagged me, a significant majority of suppressor issues we see are due to people cleaning them improperly, or getting cleaning solvent in them and leaving it (this includes cleaning a rifle with the suppressor still on and letting the suppressor work as a solvent trap).

Just like owning a borescope, before you start cleaning a suppressor, make sure you know what you're doing, or you're going to cause you and the manufacturer more headaches than are likely necessary.
 
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Without getting deep here, but because someone tagged me, a significant majority of suppressor issues we see are due to people cleaning them improperly, or getting cleaning solvent in them and leaving it (this includes cleaning a rifle with the suppressor still on and letting the suppressor work as a solvent trap).

Just like owning a borescope, before you start cleaning a suppressor, make sure you know what you're doing, or you're going to cause you and the manufacturer more headaches than are likely necessary.
Well, you know that you can’t just put it that way and leave without at least dropping your suggestions for cleaning them properly right?
 
The best option right now, besides the purpose made Bore Tech wand is to try to find a really thin pressure washer wand, cut it off so you can still hold your suppressor in one hand and insert the wand with the other, thread the new tip and screw a bolt into the end to stop it up and drill a bunch of small holes into it. It's tough to know how thick the wands are from product websites tho. Supposedly this one is 1/4".

View attachment 8282418View attachment 8282419

That's not a1/4" piece of pipe. It has the 1/4" NPT thread. If you've ever aired up your tires, the hose generally has the 1/4 NPT.


1/4 NPT fits into most pressure washer wands if you remove the end piece.
You can make your own wand with a handle, a modified 1/4 NPT and air cleaning wand from Harbor Freight.

20221021_162830.jpg
 
Yeah that's. Good idea. I found this on Amazon. Probably could just drill some holes and get a tip piece and drill some holes in it and hook it up to my preasure washer and go? I can do it with hot water too to my pressure washer so I would think it would work pretty well.
 
That's not a1/4" piece of pipe. It has the 1/4" NPT thread. If you've ever aired up your tires, the hose generally has the 1/4 NPT.


1/4 NPT fits into most pressure washer wands if you remove the end piece.
You can make your own wand with a handle, a modified 1/4 NPT and air cleaning wand from Harbor Freight.

View attachment 8283523
We need the details on how this was built. I have a couple of PW guns laying around.
 
To build this.

20231128_180602.jpg


You'll need a brass male 1/4 NPT air adapter.

Buy one of these cleaner nozzles from HF. It comes with 3 or 4 stems like the one to the right. You'll need the long stem.
20231128_174817.jpg


Cut the 1/4 NPT adapter and thread the inside to match the threads on the stem.
Thread the outside of the opposite end of the stem so you can attach the nozzle end.
Contour, drill and tap a nozzle to fit the stem. I used aluminum stock.
Drill a series of small, angled holes around the circumference of the nozzle.

20231128_175137.jpg


Take another stem and cut the tubing off of it. Drill the inside so it will slide over the stem tubing. Remove the extra material as shown in this image.
20231128_175531.jpg


Buy a couple of thin wire springs and a lamp nut.
Find a crappy scope objective cover and drill it to fit the threaded side of the second stem that you removed the tubing from. Use the lamp nut to secure it.
20231128_180046.jpg


If you don't want to use the scope cover, you won't need the second stem, lamp nut or springs.
Just be prepared to get soaked.



Put all of it together and clean away.

Disclaimer, I used a mini lathe to do most of the work. For the tiny holes I used an X-Y vise on my drill press.
 
Yeah, I know it's a 1/4 NPT. But their website states the size is also 1/4" but the way it's vague it could be not true. That's why I said "supposedly ". I was queuing up the fact that's not an easy homemade solution bc I don't think you can find a wand small enough to fit in a suppressor.

You're correct. You have to buy or build it.
I built mine. See post above for parts and basic instructions.
 
So not sure what the pressure rating would be but all this talk of the cross holes for the lance got the gears creaking in my noggin and I recalled Mikuni bleed style pilot jets from back when I messed with motorcycles...
bleed style.png

If I remember the threads are 4.0mm ("about" 5/32 on the major) x .7mm so it might work with a 1/4" O.D. tube. They would have to chopped but I think they are like $4.00 a piece.
 
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Well, you know that you can’t just put it that way and leave without at least dropping your suggestions for cleaning them properly right?
Talk to the manufacturer, but for us, we want Mavericks sent in so that we can fully disassemble, fully clean (we do it in an ultrasonic with Simple Green, nothing crazy), and MOST IMPORTANTLY - fully dry the components. In general I think centerfire suppressors need to be cleaned much less than people do it, but if you must clean, getting it PERFECTLY dry inside is the most important advice I can give. Moisture becomes glue in there, and once it starts to build up it only builds faster and faster.
 
Talk to the manufacturer, but for us, we want Mavericks sent in so that we can fully disassemble, fully clean (we do it in an ultrasonic with Simple Green, nothing crazy), and MOST IMPORTANTLY - fully dry the components. In general I think centerfire suppressors need to be cleaned much less than people do it, but if you must clean, getting it PERFECTLY dry inside is the most important advice I can give. Moisture becomes glue in there, and once it starts to build up it only builds faster and faster.
What works best to fully dry. Compressed air or oven
 
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What works best to fully dry. Compressed air or oven
Both can work, given appropriate measures. Don't overthink it, just make sure you're fully clean and fully dry, to the best of your ability.

All I know is what we have seen from people that get too much liquid in the can and clearly shoot with something still in it, ESPECIALLY if it's something that has a bit of oil in it, which obviously does not dry.
 
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Talk to the manufacturer, but for us, we want Mavericks sent in so that we can fully disassemble, fully clean (we do it in an ultrasonic with Simple Green, nothing crazy), and MOST IMPORTANTLY - fully dry the components. In general I think centerfire suppressors need to be cleaned much less than people do it, but if you must clean, getting it PERFECTLY dry inside is the most important advice I can give. Moisture becomes glue in there, and once it starts to build up it only builds faster and faster.
Thanks. That’s actually a great answer. Appreciate it. 👍🏻
 
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I put them in the oven with the “warm” setting which I think is 200 F.

No need to cook the shit out of them. And it comes out perfectly dry.

I do wish someone made a wand for a reasonable price. It’s not that complicated and I can’t imagine BT has a patent on it…no unique art to it, IMO
 
?? Really wrong thread. Did you mean to post this here?
I guess I could’ve started with “since some of you guys were talking about weighing cans” related to the need for cleaning them…

The specs on SiCo’s site do not state the configuration for whatever weight is provided.

Anyway, thanks to @Lunchbox27 for the review! There was some discussion about this boretech product coming to market in another thread about cleaning years ago. Glad to see it come to market and that it works.
 
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View attachment 8295108I made what I shall call “the pig dick” today🤣 Took a scrap piece of 1/4” ss tubing, welded a ss dowel pin in the end, drilled two small holes through the tube (for a total of 4 holes) and put a swage to 1/4” NPT fitting on the other end. This should connect to the pressure washer qd fitting. I will report back when I try it out.
Any update on "the pig dick"?

Never thought in my life I'd type a sentence like that
 
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