I must give kudos to Bore Tech, simply because they saw a market and worked to address the need. Admittedly, this product is outside of my budget, but for those with many suppressors and the wherewithal to get one, it looks like the right answer.
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Looking forward to the review. Been following debating on buying the whole kitView attachment 7778158Full kit arrived today. Nicely packed. Impressed with the lance. The tip has 6 different holes (3 per side) in a cross direction to get a wide coverage with each pass through the baffles. As soon as this shit weather passes here in MD, I’ll hook up the hose and put it to the test.
What I’ve been doing is taking two or three coffee filters, placing them in a decent size funnel and dumping the used can juice through that and into a clear water bottle. The filters catch the big stuff obviously. I wait a few days for the sediment to settle on the bottom of the bottle and then pull out the clean solution with a syringe. I’m sure you could also use some kind of container with a sump to get the sediment out from the bottom via gravity, but the water bottle was just what I had sitting around at the time.Thats something I also thought about. I’m currently looking for a good strainer to test this as well. I cannot imagine it would go bad after a single use, especially if you keep up with the cleaning
Count me in as well.I will buy a lance from you if you make them.
I've been using CLP and have a big jug of used CLP I keep and reuse. Seems to still do the trick.
The pressure cleaner attachment is very interesting, any videos of it in action?
Hey any chance you got to use the full kit?View attachment 7778158Full kit arrived today. Nicely packed. Impressed with the lance. The tip has 6 different holes (3 per side) in a cross direction to get a wide coverage with each pass through the baffles. As soon as this shit weather passes here in MD, I’ll hook up the hose and put it to the test.
I thought CLR was ok for SS as well, not so?My solution to suppressor carbon buildup is to have suppressors that are 100% titanium and then to soak them in CLR for days. Rinse out and almost all of the carbon comes out. I leave a big mason jar full of CLR and just drop the suppressor in about once every thousand rounds. I have used the same jar of CLR for awhile and it just keeps working. The carbon settles to the bottom of the jar. Very easy to do, but don't do this unless you have titanium suppressors.
I have read conflicting reports on CLR vs stainless. I use CLR to clean stainless barrels but I don't let it soak and I always clean it out with another protective solution. I would have worries about soaking stainless for days, but I would probably try it if I had an all stainless suppressor. It probably wouldn't do much more than very minor pitting.I thought CLR was ok for SS as well, not so?
Just bring your pressure washer into the bathroom, it will be fine! Science does not wait on the weather!Unfortunately it's too F'n cold out here in MD at the moment to run a pressure washer outside. I draw the line at 5 degrees with wind chill. Waiting for a warmer day. Hopefully soon. I'm eager to get at it. Even bought a pressure washer just for this.
Damn right and we are below the Mason-Dixon line...isn't that supposed to guarantee us mild winters? hahahaUnfortunately it's too F'n cold out here in MD
Me as well!!I’m curious if the power washer lance would be effective WITHOUT the chemical soak
God damn! Definitely a win!I borrowed the wand from a buddy. My Ultra 7 weighed 21oz. I soaked it in CLR for 3 days. Flushed it. Dried it. Removed the CB. Soaked it for another day. Then flushed it out with the wand. What a difference! The wand absolutely blasts the junk out. I soaked the can for another 12 hours. Blasted it again. After a week of soaking and two sessions with the wand, I could only get the can down to 13oz. I think it should probably be 10 or 11 oz without the CB(Gen 1). I'll take it. Everywhere I can see by eye is silvery, shiny. With a borescope I can tell there are carbon deposits in the crannys of the baffles. Oh well. I got 8 oz of carbon out. I'll call that a win.
That’s what she said.I just want a wand
I’ve used that unspeakable method also, and did same as you to dispose of it afterwards with the exception that I poured it into a cheap aluminum baking pan before evaporating it.I use the cheap, dangerous method (the one we're not supposed to talk about). I do wear gloves and act like I'm handling radioactive material. I just drain the liquid into Pyrex beaker when I'm done, and allow the lead acetate/carbon slurry to evaporate completely down to a blue crust rather than deal with the poisonous liquid. It usually takes a week to evaporate completely.
Once the can has dried a couple of hours in the sonic bath with purple degreaser and it's literally like brand new. I know people like to freak out about it, but as long as you're careful I don't consider it too dangerous.
I assume you speaketh of the Dip. Sounds like it works good on centerfire cans too?I use the cheap, dangerous method (the one we're not supposed to talk about). I do wear gloves and act like I'm handling radioactive material. I just drain the liquid into Pyrex beaker when I'm done, and allow the lead acetate/carbon slurry to evaporate completely down to a blue crust rather than deal with the poisonous liquid. It usually takes a week to evaporate completely.
Once the can has dried a couple of hours in the sonic bath with purple degreaser and it's literally like brand new. I know people like to freak out about it, but as long as you're careful I don't consider it too dangerous.
IMO it's not just purely a matter of round count. The caliber matters a lot. I have a 5.56 can that I owned for 5-6 years and also a 30 cal can owned for about a year or two less. The 5.56 can hardly gained any weight albeit I did get some out when I cleaned it. The 30 cal can was shot primarily on 300 BLK and substantially less rounds than the 5.56 but I got 4 or 5 times as much stuff out of it when I cleaned them both.Out of curiosity how many rounds are you guys seeing on the can to warrant such additional weight in the can? (I know rate of fire, ammo, powder, etc might have a different effect on carbon build up)
I have a SF can that’s lived on SBR’s with probably around 4000rounds on it and it’s still the advertised weight within an ounce.
I use the cheap, dangerous method (the one we're not supposed to talk about). I do wear gloves and act like I'm handling radioactive material. I just drain the liquid into Pyrex beaker when I'm done, and allow the lead acetate/carbon slurry to evaporate completely down to a blue crust rather than deal with the poisonous liquid. It usually takes a week to evaporate completely.
Once the can has dried a couple of hours in the sonic bath with purple degreaser and it's literally like brand new. I know people like to freak out about it, but as long as you're careful I don't consider it too dangerous.
I assume you speaketh of the Dip. Sounds like it works good on centerfire cans too?
Even dried out, I take it that the “crust” is easily transformed back into lead acetate with water, so I would be leery of tossing it. I have read tips on precipitating the lead out of the solution with a type of salt. This way you’re left with regular lead, and the crust that one has tossed into the landfill does not reassume its evil self after it’s first rainstorm.
Cleaning cans is getting old, and I have take-apart cans! I am tempted to give the dip a go.
But do also wear a respirator as well (with the correct filter cartridge) and the correct gloves (I haven’t done the research on the gloves…yet. Not all gloves stop all chem). I guess you can get poisoned from the lead acetate fumes too.
Real friendly stuff, that lead acetate.
I think he means this link:You both might like my recent post on the subject after helping a shooting friend neutralize a bunch of that
I mean, if you know sufficient chemistry, and have the proper equipment and knowledge, its not as bad as some other things. Definitly not on the list of what I would recommend to people who don’t know exactly what they are doing.I’ve been advocating against the dip for years. The second I barely consider it you come in and crush my dreams forever. Bastage. Lol
What that’s telling you is that acetic acid is both the parent compound and a component of the listed compound. those have implications for how the material is prepared, and how it is likely to be found (in this case in a solution of aqueous acetic acid)correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe lead acetate = acetic acid (at least in terms of this PDF).
Silicone oil hazards–see: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/suppressor-recommendations.7106906/post-9978994The best thing you can do for cleaning any can is to treat it when it's clean. Use silicone oil or dot5 brake fluid and get it on every square millimeter inside the can. Your carbon will wipe off when you clean it next time or you can easily remove the carbon by about any cleaning method for welded cans, just make sure you treat it again after you clean it. Once you take the time and trouble to clean one really well, treat it and you won't have to go through that ever again. It smokes like crazy the first few shots but after that there is no effect from the silicone oil. Works great
I have pondered this as well. In the grand scheme of things (for a .22 can) I'll stick with CLR, an ultra-sonic, and a SS pin tumbler (And gloves! Lots of gloves!). Worst case I have to use something hard to scrape off a bit of metallic lead. It might take 2 days but I can get my Masks back down to new weight everytime.
That's basically of zero concern to me frankly. It smokes a few times and then it's done. I shoot a few rounds and the smoke blows down range and I'm fine. It works extremely well too. I'd much rather this than do anything with lead accitate.
I get that and let mine go for well over 1000 rounds, all H4350. After a while, there was definitely a degradation in sound suppression. Noticeable by ear, no fancy equipment required.I asked TBAC about cleaning when I bought my cans. I was told not to worry about it. In short, the folks at TBAC found little performance degradation when their cans are "dirty". Perhaps things have changed. This was a few years ago.
But, but, but... Centerfire cans are self cleaning! I kid of course but even the LGS feeds their customers that bullshit! My Hybrid 46 was heavy as shit after 200 rounds of .338LM! Oddly, it gained when fast shooting my reloads (105.9gr of Ramshot Magnum) but much more slowly shooting factory Hornady ammo. Damn the manufacturers and their magic fuckin' powders!I get that and let mine go for well over 1000 rounds, all H4350. After a while, there was definitely a degradation in sound suppression. Noticeable by ear, no fancy equipment required.
Many soaks, sonic cleaning cycles, and flushes later, I decided that easiest was to do a quick disk and sonic cycle after 500 rounds.
My experience. Yours may vary.
Ultimately, the powder used does make a difference. How much or which ones don’t matter to me as much as knowing what I need to deal with.But, but, but... Centerfire cans are self cleaning! I kid of course but even the LGS feeds their customers that bullshit! My Hybrid 46 was heavy as shit after 200 rounds of .338LM! Oddly, it gained when fast shooting my reloads (105.9gr of Ramshot Magnum) but much more slowly shooting factory Hornady ammo. Damn the manufacturers and their magic fuckin' powders!