Gunsmithing Bubba gunsmithing project

[Trigger Monkey]

I started down this rabbit hole initially just wanting to bed my Model 783 Varmint and add a Kydex cheek piece, which isn’t a hard DIY project all in all. However, I thought why not have some fun with it and just like that, my bubba gunsmithing adventure began. My goal was to have an end product that was functional, looked decent, and improved the rifle overall. I’m going to update this as I go along and if I screw up bad enough, well I guess I’ll do a review on the new Boyd’s stock I get.

To fit within this bubba gunsmithing theme I decided that all the materials were going to come from resources that a bubba might have, mainly a hardware store and Walmart. Luckily, I have a pretty good local Ace hardware and I was able to get 99% of everything I needed there. The only thing I got from Walmart was the neutral shoe polish to use as a release agent as I had some of the other materials at home already.

Here’s my list of materials

Ace Hardware:
JB Weld
Plumber’s Puddy
(2) ⅜” X ½” Nylon Spacers
(2) ¼-20 Flat Head Screws
(2) ¼-20 Flanged Threaded Wood Inserts
Lamp Rod Connector
2” PVC Pipe
14” Zip Ties
Gorilla Glue Clear Epoxy
10-24 Threaded Brass Wood Insert
10-24 Black Oxide Cap Screw
Walmart:
Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish
Already had on hand:
Adhesive Foam Sheets (Kids crafts)
Matte Black Paint

The pictures are a little out of sequence because I've already done a bunch of locating, drilling, and fitting, I'm just backtracking to show my process.

I had started out by making the cheek piece out of the section of 2” schedule 40 PVC pipe. I think I’d actually seen someone else use 2” pipe previously, which is why I went with that diameter. To figure out where I had to cut the pipe I made a template from a piece of wire that roughly followed the curvature of the pipe.

When I found the best point where it generally followed the curvature of the stock and could provide sufficient support I marked the wire. Cutting and shaping the section into a pipe was relatively easy, albeit messy.

I used the cheek piece to locate and drill the holes for the ¼-20 thread inserts. I figured ¼-20 screws would be substantial enough to support the cheek rest and the flange on the inserts would provide a bearing surface for the spacers that would set the height.

I epoxied the inserts in with the clear epoxy and filed the edges so that they followed the contour of the stock a little better.

The front one isn’t perfect but those sins will be hidden once the spacers and cheek rest are blacked out. Eventually the cheek rest will get painted and brown self adhesive foam will go on top, which should put the screws just below flush.

The 783 used a wood screw to secure the trigger guard, however it was shit, it didn't have enough bite to draw the trigger guard down and before long I could see it stripping out completely. I drilled the hole out and installed a brass 10-24 thread insert in so I could use a machine screw to secure the trigger guard. The head diameter is about the same but it uses a smaller allen wrench than the action screws, that's the only real downside.

Coming soon are the bedding pillars I made out some lamp nipple.....

 

[VSP968]

I’m diggin’ this rifle and project but I’m queer for Remingtons.....

 

[Alabusa]

Tagging in to see how this all paid off.

 

[Kayakfish1]

Nothing like a project that is purely for fun, nice work!

 

[Trigger Monkey]

For some added context, the first picture is the rifle back when I was reviewing it for an article and there were no modifications done to it yet beyond the cheap stock pack. I've kept my targets from that test so I'll be able to do a direct comparison with some of the same ammunition once it's all said and done. Hope Remington doesn't mind.

 

[VSP968]

I saw your review of this rifle and may have missed this- does this thing have the same footprint as a SA R700? will it fit in a chassis?
I’m intrigued by the whole barrel nut thing and have an extra AICS gathering dust....

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Nope, the 783 isn't cross compatible with the Model 700. That being said, there are some aftermarket parts for the 783 that have filtered out. Chassis and stocks are available from Boyds, Oryx, and MDT that are inlet for the 783. I have to say, a Oryx chassis is hella tempting after reviewing the Howa Oryx recently, that chassis is pretty awesome for the price. PTG has a 783 DBM on their website that takes AICS mags. Criterion and X-Caliber are making prefit barrels for the 783 and my understanding is that the barrel nut can be unscrewed with a Savage barrel nut wrench.

 

[Average guy]

Nope, the 783 isn't cross compatible with the Model 700. That being said, there are some aftermarket parts for the 783 that have filtered out. Chassis and stocks are available from Boyds, Oryx, and MDT that are inlet for the 783. I have to say, a Oryx chassis is hella tempting after reviewing the Howa Oryx recently, that chassis is pretty awesome for the price. PTG has a 783 DBM on their website that takes AICS mags. Criterion and X-Caliber are making prefit barrels for the 783 and my understanding is that the barrel nut can be unscrewed with a Savage barrel nut wrench.

The barrel nut can be removed with a savage wrench. I’m in the process of building a 783 in 6br Norma. All in all the are a great action. I have set my trigger to 2 pounds. With a little more aftermarket support they would be the ultimate budget builders action.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Not much of an update today but here are the bedding pillars I made for this little project.

I was going to make bedding pillars out of 1/2" aluminum tubing but I scratched that idea when I realized that drilling out for 1/2" tubing would take away too much wood in the rear. Remington did not leave me a lot of meat back there so I searched for a more narrow pillar. I happened to stumble across an internet posting, the birthplace of many bubba projects, talking about using lamp nipple as a bedding pillar. Luckily, the local hardware store had a selection of it and I picked up a couple 8" pieces of the stuff.

It's just over 3/8" diameter, threaded on the outside, with enough clearance on the inside for the action screws. The screws are taped to keep them centered inside the bedding pillar. I'm hoping to epoxy the pillars in place this weekend.

 

[kthomas]

You are about to give some Canadian shooters some big boners.

There's an F-class shooter up there who sells shooting supplies who recently started dabbling in PRS (and now a self proclaimed expert ) who pushes the 783 really hard as the "best budget solution for PRS" (nevermind all the great budget options that have come out the past couple of years).

So now there's a bunch of Canadians buying 783's and trying to bubba the hell out of them to get them to work for PRS . I can't seem to convince this crowd that there's other budget options out there that are fit for purpose for PRS, and there's no need to bubba a 783 in hopes of making it a suitable PRS rig. I butt heads with that F-class guy constantly.

Sorry for the sidetrack, but you reminded me of the biggest headache I have with a Canadian shooting forum. For your purposes I think it's a cool project, looks like you are doing some good work and I'm excited to see how it turns out for you. Nothing like having a DIY project turning out great!

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Mystic Precision?

 

[kthomas]

Mystic Precision?

That's the fella.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

I ran across his blog post while I was researching the 783 earlier this year. When you said 783 and PRS it reminded me of it.

 

[NFAJohn]

Taggggggggged, love the premises of the post.

 

[Krazy_jim]

You are about to give some Canadian shooters some big boners.

There's an F-class shooter up there who sells shooting supplies who recently started dabbling in PRS (and now a self proclaimed expert ) who pushes the 783 really hard as the "best budget solution for PRS" (nevermind all the great budget options that have come out the past couple of years).

So now there's a bunch of Canadians buying 783's and trying to bubba the hell out of them to get them to work for PRS . I can't seem to convince this crowd that there's other budget options out there that are fit for purpose for PRS, and there's no need to bubba a 783 in hopes of making it a suitable PRS rig. I butt heads with that F-class guy constantly.

Sorry for the sidetrack, but you reminded me of the biggest headache I have with a Canadian shooting forum. For your purposes I think it's a cool project, looks like you are doing some good work and I'm excited to see how it turns out for you. Nothing like having a DIY project turning out great!

So what you're saying is.... as a canadian i should be buying a 783 and setting it up for PRS?!

@kthomas said it himself

 

[kthomas]

So what you're saying is.... as a canadian i should be buying a 783 and setting it up for PRS?!

@kthomas said it himself

Haha well if you are on CGN all the F-class turned faux PRS shooters will tell that the 783 is the best and only budget option suitable for PRS. It's the obvious choice apparently.

So do with that information as you fit...

 

[Krazy_jim]

Haha well if you are on CGN all the F-class turned faux PRS shooters will tell that the 783 is the best and only budget option suitable for PRS. It's the obvious choice apparently.

So do with that information as you fit...

I havent spent much time on CGN to be honest. I have lurked around the back a few times over the years, much like i have done here. Wish i had more time to get out and shoot.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Update:

I finished up the cheek piece with paint, clear coat, and foam top. I wrapped the nylon drums with electrical tape to black them out. It came out pretty good I think.

Right now the pillars are in and I'm waiting for the epoxy to cure. I'll post up pics later today.

 

[VSP968]

Maybe slip the stock pack back over it and lace it up, just to see how it feels, after you get it all back together?

I might have to make a run to Green Top or Loudon Guns just to take look at one of these rifles.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

No, the stock pack isn't going back on the rifle.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Update:

Ok, I stripped and prepped the action earlier today with plumber's putty and neutral shoe polish, I probably didn't have to go to the full extent that I did just for this pillar bedding job but I plan to skim bed it tomorrow.

I put wax all over the action screws, tape, and the inside of the pillars while I was at it too. I wrapped tape around the barrel to keep it centered up in the barrel channel and I figured it was just about right when I dropped it back into the stock and it didn't rock or move.

I mixed up about 1/2 oz of JB Weld, more than enough for what I'd need but I'd rather have more than enough than skimp on the epoxy. The excess would also give me a gauge for how the epoxy is curing too.

I lined the holes in the stock with epoxy and then slathered the outside of the pillars and pushed them in the holes. I used a q-tip to remove any excess that was in the way of the action screws and inserted the screws, tightening them down to snug. Two 14" zip ties kept pressure on the action.

I'm going to go up and pop it out of the action in about an hour to see how she looks, I'll report back in a bit.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Holy shit, it worked.

Everything came apart fairly easily and it's looking pretty good. There wasn't much clean up to be done other than a little epoxy around the openings of the pillars but a razor took care of that. Next stop, skim bedding.

 

[NFAJohn]

@smacha538

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Update:

Alright fellers, it's done. Yesterday, I prepped the area with a Dremel so the epoxy would have a surface to adhere to and mixed up about 3/4 oz of JB Weld. Hindsight being 20/20 I should've mixed the whole tube.

It's been about, jeez, 10 years or so since I've bedded a rifle myself and damn did I forget how messy it could get, now I remember why I bought chassis. I dropped the action in at about lunchtime and around 7 pm or so last night I figured it was good enough to pop out and have a look. Enter butterfly jitters when it hesitated to come out but I calmed down, clamped the barrel in a vise, held the forend, and hit the butt with my other hand. She popped loose and I was able to take a gander at the destruction.

It actually wasn't that bad, there were a couple of issues that you'll see but I don't think they're going to be detrimental. The first one was in the recoil lug pocket area where it appears I got the plumber's putty dam too close to the pocket and it flowed into the pocket at the same time as the epoxy. Basically the front and sides are kinda ugly but they don't touch the lug so it should be ok.

The other area of issue was the pad for the tang, not sure if I didn't have enough release agent or what but it's kinda ugly back there.

I'm going to see how it shoots before I decide to clean those two areas up. My workbench is a mess and it's dark outside so finished product pics will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon when I get home. All in all, I think it looks good considering what I used to get it done, that being said the proof is in the puddin' so I'll have to see how it shoots before I finally say I'm satisfied.

 

[sam4886]

I dig it. Pretty clean bed job overall. I'm going to steal that lamp threaded post idea for an old Mossberg 800 I've got that I want to bed for a little fall project.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Reassembled the rifle this afternoon to get some pics, it was nice being able to torque the screws down to a reasonable amount. When I got the rifle for T&E someone had tightened the rear screw too much and crushed the stock. What this meant was that if the rear action screw was too loose, the tang could float up and down, too tight and the action screw obstructed the bolt. I got by using a washer to keep the stock from crushing too much and going real light on the torque, like 15 in/lbs or so on the rear. Now I have the rear torqued to 30 in/lbs and the top of the action screw is flush with the screw hole, nearly perfect. So far I've accomplished my goals though, I have a cheek riser that has a cleaner form factor than the strap on stock pack I had used and it's now pillar bedded so it has a better interface with the stock.


The ammo that I used for testing the first time is on the way so I can do a direct comparison this weekend.

What do you think should be next? Get rid of those antiquated sling studs and install flush cups?

 

[VSP968]

I say shoot it some and go from there.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

I'm planning out Bubba Part Deux: The Gunsmithening - an auto parts store rifle refinish adventure.

 

[VSP968]

That I wanna’ see.
Will there be tactical colors?
No shit, bedding was not bad....

 

[Mongoose0311]

Very cool build.

Out of curiosity why did you stop the bedding at the lug and not bed the lug itself and pad forward another inch?

 

[Trigger Monkey]

I was going to but I was having issues filling the notches in the barrel nut with plumber's putty so that it was flush and I didn't want to risk locking the barreled action in. That being said plenty of guns, including this one, have shot well with the barrel free floated back to the lug so I didn't see an issue in leaving out a 1" barrel pad.

 

[want2learn]

i love it....looks awesome, can't wait to hear how it shoots

 

[Trigger Monkey]

My next project involves my Bergara HMR and I've sort of started it already. I had a cheap muzzle brake on there with a crush washer that just looked awful. I bought a new muzzle brake recently that came with some small diameter shims that I didn't end up using but worked great on the Bergara's barrel. I thought it'd look better though if the back of the brake was beveled to meet the shims so I broke out the files.

The end goal for the HMR is a grey barreled action and a camo job on the stock that emulates Kuiu Verde. I might bed it too, I dunno.

 

[Surfingsk8r]

This is awesome. I always love seeing the kind of creative ideas people have for these kinds of modifications. Very cool and by the looks of things great job as well.

 

[sam4886]

Sounds like a buba barrel threading adventure is in the works.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Noooo, I know my limitations.

 

[NFAJohn]

Noooo, I know my limitations.

The spirit of the bubba compels you to try it though, I mean come on a person who turns lamp rod into pillars can surely show us how bubba would thread his barrel for a solvent trap

 

[Trigger Monkey]

I have thought about cutting and crowning the 26" barrel down to something like 22 or 20 inches. I have most of what i need to do that but it's not a priority.

 

[SonicBurlap]

My next project involves my Bergara HMR and I've sort of started it already. I had a cheap muzzle brake on there with a crush washer that just looked awful. I bought a new muzzle brake recently that came with some small diameter shims that I didn't end up using but worked great on the Bergara's barrel. I thought it'd look better though if the back of the brake was beveled to meet the shims so I broke out the files.

View attachment 7164810

The end goal for the HMR is a grey barreled action and a camo job on the stock that emulates Kuiu Verde. I might bed it too, I dunno.

Don't see the point of bedding a stock that has an embedded aluminum mini chassis as the backbone already., if the accuracy isn't there for whatever reason (glitch in quality control - call Bergara, or the truck ran over it now it's your issue) just drop it in a KRG Bravo and call it done.

 

[acudaowner]

It looks really nice also liked the idea you used on the pillers can't wait to see more if you do more .

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Don't see the point of bedding a stock that has an embedded aluminum mini chassis as the backbone already., if the accuracy isn't there for whatever reason (glitch in quality control - call Bergara, or the truck ran over it now it's your issue) just drop it in a KRG Bravo and call it done.

The point is because I want to.

 

[jackinfl]

Awesome job taking on this project. Sometimes its fun just to do things for yourself.

 

[memilanuk]

Thanks for posting this... the cheek piece mod actually gave me an idea to work with for a project I have been wanting done

 

[Trigger Monkey]

It was a break even kind of day at the range and while I saw some improvements I also saw some accuracy loss.

When I reviewed the rifle I shot six or seven different types of ammunition, this time I bought two of the same types that I used before and some Fiocchi 69gr match, mostly because it was cheap. The two types that I used again are Fiocchi 50 gr Polymer Tip and Winchester 69gr Match, obviously not the best ammunition available but sufficient.

So, during the review with an unbedded/unmodified Remington 783 Varmint the rifle shot (3) 5-shot groups of Fiocchi 50 gr Polymer Tip at a .89" average at 100 yards. Three 5-shot groups of Winchester Match came in at a .81" average. On this range trip the Fiocchi polymer tip ammunition came in at a .85" average for the best three 5-shot groups at 100 yards and Winchester match ended up at 1.03" for the best three groups. That's really not the way I was expecting things to go honestly but that's the way the cookie crumbled. You may also notice that not all of the groups of 50 gr polymer tip are 5-shot groups. During group shooting four rounds wouldn't fire, I saved 10 for shooting at 200 and 300 yards and still had one more that that wouldn't go off.

During the range trip I tried playing with the torque settings while shooting the Winchester ammo, upping it from 45/30 to 57/57 inch pounds on the front and rear action screws respectively. This didn't seem to generate at significant change for the Winchester match but was downright horrendous with the Fiocchi 69 gr match.

Two of the five shot groups of Fiocchi came in at 1 3/8" and 2 1/8". After I returned the torque settings to 45/30, the groups tightened up to .562" and 1.187", although it should've been tighter, I broke shot #2 low, shots 1, 3-5 were clustered in a .75" group.

I may tinker with the rifle some more, I'm going to add some spacers to raise the cheek piece up and/or add padding. Still debating trying to clean up any of the bedding.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

I took the rifle apart today and I think I may have found a potential culprit, at least something that needs to be fixed. The rear action screw is pulling through the plastic and it appears that yesterday part of the action screw was bearing on the edge of the pillar and partially on the plastic of the trigger guard. I had noticed that the bolt was starting to pull through the plastic when I first got the rifle for testing but I thought pillar bedding would "fix it". I was mistaken but I have a new trigger guard on the way so hopefully my next range trip will yield better results.

 

[kytrapper]

tagged for the bubba factor

 

[Average guy]

I’m planning on fabricating an aluminum bushing for my trigger guard screw hole. I think the 783 is a very overlooked action. So far I’m in the.3 with my 6br. Only non factory components are the barrel, barrel nut, and recoil lug. There’s 5 tubes of JB weld in the synthetic stock.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

I'm actually contemplating dropping my 783 into an Oryx chassis. I only have about $50 in the bubba gunsmithing project so it's not the end of the world. Plus it would give me the opportunity to wrench on the Oryx to add some flush cups to the forend.

 

[Average guy]

I'm actually contemplating dropping my 783 into an Oryx chassis. I only have about $50 in the bubba gunsmithing project so it's not the end of the world. Plus it would give me the opportunity to wrench on the Oryx to add some flush cups to the forend.

The ergonomics on an oryx just don’t jive with me. I will use a Boyd’s super varmit if I upgrade the stock.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Chassis definitely aren't for everyone, I tried the Oryx out on a Howa rifle I was reviewing and really liked it, a couple minor fit and finish gripes but nothing huge.

When you say you're making a bushing for the trigger guard screw, are you referring to the trigger guard retainer screw or the rear action screw? Since you are going to be using the Boyd's have you also thought about running PTG's bottom metal that will allow the use of AICS magazines?