Building the Perfect Reloading Room

Fuck it, it's $1 a sq ft laminate. It'll flex a little. Better than grinding powder and spent primers into carpet, lol.
Carpet smells when the wet dog lays down on it,
Inconvenience.

But a more technical aspect is that carpet builds up a static charge in me that could light a brush fire in the rain, a 2 inch long blue streak of light that cracks like you broke 1150 fps.
If you like organization, buying the Avery printable labels and pre-printing "dirty, fired", "cleaned, processed", and "6BR, 308, 223, etc" is a good way to stay up to midnight dicking around in the reloading room. You get all those bins lined up and looking uniform with labels on them and it's OCD heaven.
The clear shoe box wally world containers dont do good stacked with bullets in them kind of flimsy. I use them and instead of printed labels I use 3x5 cards marked with a marksalot and taped on the inside of the front face.

Bulk dirty brass goes into 5 gallon buckets on the floor since it hurts my back to lift I just transfer working qualities to 1 gallon pork rind plastic containers then plastic mayo jars for on the bench .

Primers stack good in the wally world boxes and bulk bullets go in peanut butter etc. jars so they won't break easily.

I'm, replacing almost all the wally boxes with the gallon plastic screw top food containers.

I need to find where I can buy 1 gallon food containers so I don't have to eat all those pork rinds.

Merry Christmas you bunch of deplorables.
 
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If you like organization, buying the Avery printable labels and pre-printing "dirty, fired", "cleaned, processed", and "6BR, 308, 223, etc" is a good way to stay up to midnight dicking around in the reloading room. You get all those bins lined up and looking uniform with labels on them and it's OCD heaven.
I don't print a lot of labels, so I didn't spend much on a printer. But this thing does everything I need it to;

Amazon product ASIN B09F68J628
The other item that I've gotten a lot of use out of;

Amazon product ASIN B08MR5F31K
 
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I put all the little reloading stuff in those black toolboxes on the left bench and the larger stuff goes in the cabinet off to the left. I take out what I need and put it away when finished as I don't like leaving stuff sitting out. Yes, as you can see, the drawers have labels :)
g pic.jpg
 
I put all the little reloading stuff in those black toolboxes on the left bench and the larger stuff goes in the cabinet off to the left. I take out what I need and put it away when finished as I don't like leaving stuff sitting out. Yes, as you can see, the drawers have labels :)
View attachment 8304797
Yeah I looked at a bunch of them and decided on this wooden cart with a bunch of drawers but I will probably end up still getting a metal toolbox with drawers too. They probably work really good.
 
I have an epoxy floor in my reloading room done by the previous owner. It's pretty well done, it wouldn't be my first choice if doing it over though. I'll probably do an engineered hardwood floor in the future if I don't just do the entire floor in 3/4" stall mat.
LVP is ideal for that type of space and situation, just get some decent quality stuff if you are doing a bigger space. Neptune makes a very good LVP product.
 
That stall mat is heavy stuff did the last hunting blind in it to deaden floor noise. It is hard to cut also.

I would think hard to sweep up powder, media and brass shavings.

Ours had a rough sort of texture.
 
Not sure if the stall mat comment was for me. I have a piece of stall mat on the top of the short toolbox that sits between the two benches. The mat that is on the surface of the two benches and the floor is similar, but it has a smoother texture than a stall mat. I don't usually spill any powder and the few bits that are there with small brass shaving are cleaned up with a small shop vac.

Here is the stall mat on the tool box
image1 (8).jpeg

This is the rubber mat on the benches
image0 (13).jpeg
 
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That stall mat is heavy stuff did the last hunting blind in it to deaden floor noise. It is hard to cut also.

I would think hard to sweep up powder, media and brass shavings.

Ours had a rough sort of texture.

I used 3/4" stall mat in my gym. I took some of the 1/2" stall mat from my old gym and have it in my reloading room now. The 3/4" has quite a bit more give under foot which is why I'm considering doing the entire floor. When you lay it over concrete or subfloor it has a nice feel. It is fairly porous though and shows dirt; my gym floor has chalk stains. a 4'x6' sheet of 3/4" weighs 90lbs. My floor is Gypsum-Crete and has hydronic radiant heat in it.
 
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Yup my DIL has it in her workout room and it is cushy also tough stuff.

I admit it I'm a spiller.
Everything reloading related has hit the floor one time or another, but it all hit a plane oak wood floor.

In the winter with the dry heat it strips me of static so long as I don't have rubber sole shoes.

I wonder if the horse mat will insulate or conduct?
 
I don't print a lot of labels, so I didn't spend much on a printer. But this thing does everything I need it to;

Amazon product ASIN B09F68J628
The other item that I've gotten a lot of use out of;

Amazon product ASIN B08MR5F31K


Use the nembot on amazon...they are bluetooth and great for copt and pasting lables quick for range cards
I don't print a lot of labels, so I didn't spend much on a printer. But this thing does everything I need it to;

Amazon product ASIN B09F68J628
The other item that I've gotten a lot of use out of;

Amazon product ASIN B08MR5F31K


Use nembots Bluetooth printer Amazon)...it's lightning fast stays charged for days and is great for range cards too
 

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Just refinished the top surface of my bench and put some Inline Fab mounts in. Still getting stuff put back where it belongs. There is a large metal cabinet off to the left for storage of components and ammo. View attachment 8309457
Very nice! That would be total overkill for me. I just don’t have that much gear and stuff. But it is practically a work of art. Well done!
 
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Anyone have a really great way to organize various stuff to go in cabinets? I am strongly considering silverware divider things for some drawers but I need to have some good organization in a few cabinets too for storage of all the various crap we all have in upper and lower cabinets?

I've looked at some stackable plastic containers but I don't want to have to get a container out of a stack of em just to access my stuff. Any good suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Size of what you need to store and depth of cabinets will drive what you like best. I have some acro bins stacked in a 14” deep cabinet and it’s not bad if they’re only two high per shelf.

I’ve been flirting with the idea of an apothecary cabinet for my new space - lots of little drawers, and doesn’t look like gun stuff since it needs to be slightly discreet.
 
I finally get to post that there are some nice rl spaces…..for myself, humble spare bedroom but that may soon be taken over…..

How many hours would all of you estimate spending in said area?
If you mean, spending in the work area loading ammo, for me a very minimal amount of time normally. It comes in spurts. 6-8 hours a couple of days every 6 months or so.
Kind of like a spurt of activity followed by months of relatively no activity in the loading room. This is why my loading space is a shared space.
 
I finally get to post that there are some nice rl spaces…..for myself, humble spare bedroom but that may soon be taken over…..

How many hours would all of you estimate spending in said area?
Not as much as I'd like to. I should be about 8-10 hours a week though normally, depending on how tired I am at night and how early I have to get up the next day for work. If I get a Sunday afternoon in the loading room then that would be more.
 
Size of what you need to store and depth of cabinets will drive what you like best. I have some acro bins stacked in a 14” deep cabinet and it’s not bad if they’re only two high per shelf.

I’ve been flirting with the idea of an apothecary cabinet for my new space - lots of little drawers, and doesn’t look like gun stuff since it needs to be slightly discreet.
Yeah. I found these stackable plastic drawers that will fit really well in my closet that I built thr shelves in for this purpose and I think that will be my main storage for brass. I will have 8 individual bins to pull out and each will hold about 200 or so 308 size cases, so 223 I'd be able to do maybe 300 per or so.

I'm really considering these double decker pull outs for 3 of the lower cabinets and then keeping all the bigger stuff in there, leaving my uppers and drawers (with silverware insert trey in a few to divide) for all my smaller stuff. I will probably get a few of the small plastic drawer stack things too for the really small stuff to go in one of the upper cabinets.

That should do it, with the other shelves and hooks and stuff I have for the slat wall.
 
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Anyone have a really great way to organize various stuff to go in cabinets? I am strongly considering silverware divider things for some drawers but I need to have some good organization in a few cabinets too for storage of all the various crap we all have in upper and lower cabinets?

I've looked at some stackable plastic containers but I don't want to have to get a container out of a stack of em just to access my stuff. Any good suggestions would be appreciated.
My cabinet drawers aren’t the greatest, but for small parts and equipment, I use plastic bullet boxes. They are tough, easy to stack and fit great in small places. Simply mark them with a bullet sticker or masking tape and a permanent marker. Some of my boxes are 20 years old and they keep on working.
 
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My cabinet drawers aren’t the greatest, but for small parts and equipment, I use plastic bullet boxes. They are tough, easy to stack and fit great in small places. Simply mark them with a bullet sticker or masking tape and a permanent marker. Some of my boxes are 20 years old and they keep on working.
Yeah I store some of the small parts in Berger boxes also. It's the larger overall stuff like what I may put a Berger box in that I've been struggling with.

I got that label maker coming too, which between that and the plastic drawers it should help a lot.
 
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Where do you source the shorter cabinets for the desk height. Everything I search is kitchen height....
I’m going to turn my office into a reloading and bass rod building room. Running into the same issue. I see cheap cabinet bases that I want to use, but they are all kitchen height.

Anyone using a tall bench and hate it? Because I’m leaning that way.
 
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I’m going to turn my office into a reloading and bass rod building room. Running into the same issue. I see cheap cabinet bases that I want to use, but they are all kitchen height.

Anyone using a tall bench and hate it? Because I’m leaning that way.
I use a countertop height bench (37") and think it's perfect. I do most work standing and keep a stool at the bench for the few task I want to sit down to do. Aren't kitchen counters 36"? Or are the cheapo cabinets 30" or 32" like a bathroom counter?
 
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I’m going to turn my office into a reloading and bass rod building room. Running into the same issue. I see cheap cabinet bases that I want to use, but they are all kitchen height.

Anyone using a tall bench and hate it? Because I’m leaning that way.
Re: tall bench. I set my work surface up at desk height and use a computer chair for comfort. Works pretty well, unless you want to stand and reload which becomes problematic.
 
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I use a countertop height bench (37") and think it's perfect. I do most work standing and keep a stool at the bench for the few task I want to sit down to do. Aren't kitchen counters 36"? Or are the cheapo cabinets 30" or 32" like a bathroom counter?
Kitchen height is 36". Used to be, you had "vanity height " cabinets for bathrooms, but no one uses those anymore, they have all gone to 36" height.

I’m going to turn my office into a reloading and bass rod building room. Running into the same issue. I see cheap cabinet bases that I want to use, but they are all kitchen height.

Anyone using a tall bench and hate it? Because I’m leaning that way.
I have 36" lowers with a 2" thick top and I love it being higher up, much more comfortable both sitting and standing for me.
 
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The ones I’m looking at are 34.5” tall, then of course you’ll add the height of your bench top.
Yeah, that's normal height now days. The overall is normally 36" - 37-1/4" with top but it varies depending on when the cabinets are installed if they are on top of flooring or built up to meet flooring ect.....
 
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2x4's are kind of soft.
Good enough for reloading unless you consider a hammer a reloading tool. :p

Having a solid top that doesn't deflect when running a press handle would be my priority. If the top mars or scratches with use would be minor issue. I manage now with a bendy bench top but it would be a nice improvement to have a rock solid bench.
 
2 x 4s on edge glued and screwed would be a fine butcher block . It would look cool and plenty strong if supported properly . I like my tops glass flat , that would be my main concern .
 
Yeah, I know. I’m more worried about flex than dings, but I have considered just buying maple butcher block countertops already made. They just aren’t as thick. I haven’t decided which way I’ll go on that yet.
You can get butcher block up to 12' length and 2" thick if ya know where to look.
 
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My bench is a cheap wood working kit repurposed.

I would want tougher wood if starting from scratch.

A lot of effort into building and the top is on display forever.

I'm old and no longer care except for function. If the case were different I would upgrade that one part.

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And whoever said it's not like you use a hammer on it is WRONG .lol
 
I don't think a heavier bench top necessarily equals more rigidity. Like I said earlier I built my bench cabinets out of plywood. I then mounted 2 in thick butcher block to the top of it. I bolted the cabinets to the wall and then screwed a mounting plate against the back wall. So I was able to connect the butcher block to both the cabinets and the mounting plate on the back wall. It is rigid as hell.

On one of the cabinets are used in 11 ft long butcher block. 2 in thick and 23 in deep. That thing is heavy as hell. It was a b**** to pick up by myself, walk it into the room and then swing it around to put it on top of the cabinets. Actually sprained my wrist doing it. If it was twice as thick, I don't think I would be able to pick it up by myself.
Yeah it really is. I had to load and unload and carry my tops which are 2" thick x 26" wide and it was extremely difficult by myself. I also used some metal corner bracket material I had in the shop to screw off the top in the open areas to the wall. It's very rigid and works well. There's no way I could even drag a top double the thickness and 10 or 12' long.
 
2 x 4s on edge glued and screwed would be a fine butcher block . It would look cool and plenty strong if supported properly . I like my tops glass flat , that would be my main concern .
That works fine. I used 3/8” oak to sturdy up mine. I glued and pressed it. Then applied screws and there is zero give. Just because pine is used doesn’t mean you cannot remove any deflection as long as you do it right. One does not need a butcher block as your work surface.
 
My bench is a cheap wood working kit repurposed.

I would want tougher wood if starting from scratch.

A lot of effort into building and the top is on display forever.

I'm old and no longer care except for function. If the case were different I would upgrade that one part.

View attachment 8318801

And whoever said it's not like you use a hammer on it is WRONG .lol

Ditch the hammer


 
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What would you have to mount a planer to, to be able to run a 8 ft long 25-in wide 2x4 butcher block through? That would be near impossible.
You mean like a hand planer or a shop machine? There's planers that can run it but it would be super heavy, even if it were made of spruce 2x4's. We use lam beams like that often enough.
 
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I might buy a planer and build a butcher block style top out of 2x4s.
I have about 12ft space to assemble a bench in so I am going to buy two 4ft sections of kitchen height cabinets/ drawers and place them on the outer edges then in the center im just going to frame a lower section that is desk height where I can mount my press and whatever else.
 
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I have about 12ft space to assemble a bench in so I am going to buy two 4ft sections of kitchen height cabinets/ drawers and place them on the outer edges then in the center im just going to frame a lower section that is desk height where I can mount my press and whatever else.
If I were only going to be doing reloading in my space I might would do the same thing, but I need all my bench top at the same height for building fishing rods.