OP, your going to get at least 7 strong opinions on this before this thread is finished. The more details you can give as people ask might trim that down to 5 or so. As stated above waiting for an answer from the manufacturer right now might be a good idea. Do you want to be suspecting your gun is suddenly broke when there is a good chance you might have just got ahold of some bad brass. There's some damn good reloaders here with good advice but if you got some bad brass you dont have worry about that, it's kind of a self solving problem at that point.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Gunsmithing Cracking cases- need input
- Thread starter SWWI Shooter
- Start date
Milo and I have pm’d and are all good. Sorry to stir any drama. Tone is nearly impossible to communicate and he is merely trying to help, as are the rest of us. Some of us just need more education than others ?
Lighten the fuck up francis. I did not jump on anyone, I simply asked what relevance to the OP's issue were the comments. I've watched a lot of guys hammer bolts open from overpressure loads, Not Once have I ever heard anyone say, "look at those shoulders, they're hammered, or my necks are beat up" < if that was the case, it would certainly be an under pressure situation.
We have a reloading section for all to participate, bring something to the table other than telling an experienced loader to wipe lube off a case and maybe we'll embrace your opinions. if you quit telling us to fuck off.
That's good, that's two things that are out of the way as contributing factors. Hopefully Nosler will have some insight once they receive your brass.
Glad your rifle checked though. It's usually something simple once you get to the bottom of it.
Glad your rifle checked though. It's usually something simple once you get to the bottom of it.
Yes, I'm sure that it is something pretty simple. I'm thinking that it's the brass but that is the easy answer so we'll see. As someone already said, Nosler will likely never admit that it was the brass but hopefully they will have an answer. On a completely different (but connected) note: I was reading some reviews on Redding dies as that's what I have. Someone on one of the forums said that the Redding premium dies were made of carbide and as such, didn't need any lube when resizing. I'd never heard that before. Any comments?
I thought it was just a carbide expander plug...
Curious to hear other people's actual experience though...
Curious to hear other people's actual experience though...
Most brands of dies make carbide pistol dies for straight wall cases. It's an insert. I have heard Dillon has a carbide 223 die, never seen one. It'd be pretty cost prohibitive to sleeve a bottleneck case die with carbide. A carbide mandrel costs over 60 bucks, a machined post is all they are.
Last edited:
Ok, maybe they were talking about pistol dies on that post...or maybe I misread it
I'm having difficulty finding a link as well, but I looked at them at the local shop a few weeks ago. Grey box, .223, marked "Carbide" and were $50 (which I thought was super cheap for carbide dies). Since I already have four sets of .223 dies, I passed on them.
So just for my own info, if dies are made out of carbide, does that eliminate the need for lube?
Here's some Lyman carbide .223 dies...
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Carbid...=1548346936&sr=1-9&keywords=carbide+.223+dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Carbid...=1548346936&sr=1-9&keywords=carbide+.223+dies
Not for bottle neck cases; they still need lube. The issue is they are less prone to be scratched by debris than normal steel dies...
RCBS Tungsten Carbide .223 dies set. (Gotta search with a "T/C" attribute)
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-11107-223-Rem-5-56/dp/B0063IE20W
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-11107-223-Rem-5-56/dp/B0063IE20W
T/C seems to get me Taper Crimp dies.
Amazon?
Aren't the Lyman and RCBS just carbide button dies?
Would love to have a real carbide 223 die set for under $50
https://www.amazon.com/Dillon-Preci...1548347767&sr=8-3&keywords=dillon+223+die+set
Amazon?
Aren't the Lyman and RCBS just carbide button dies?
Would love to have a real carbide 223 die set for under $50
https://www.amazon.com/Dillon-Preci...1548347767&sr=8-3&keywords=dillon+223+die+set
Last edited:
If you look, you can see the carbide insert in the FL die. Unless I'm mistaken, all bottleneck cases are a tapered crimp in FL dies. Also, the RCBS "T/C" dies come in a grey box (not green), denoting that they are carbide.
Can you buy JUST the Carbide sizing die? Don't need a whole set.
What rifle calibers are offered?
While they still need lube it would be worth it if not super expensive.
What rifle calibers are offered?
While they still need lube it would be worth it if not super expensive.
I have no idea. I just saw the set at the local shop, and thought "Well. That's interesting."
Here you go.
https://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-carbide-rifle-dies-individual-three-die-sets_8_4_24498.html
I myself would not hesitate to try a few cases w/o lube, esp if they were tumbled in charged corn cob media. it's the base of the case that gets stuck in a die, I can't wrap my head around a tapered case being all that diff than a straight case.
This is getting confusing
RCBS refers to their Carbide Pistol dies as TC,
and their Taper Crimp dies as T/C.
I think people are ASSUMING "T/C" means taper crimp, rather than Tungsten Carbide.
Has anyone tried the body only die (like the Redding) followed with a Collet Neck die (like the Lee)?
I use that for .30-06, .223, and modified a Lee collet for 22 Nosler.
I use that for .30-06, .223, and modified a Lee collet for 22 Nosler.
Dillon wants 151 alone a for a carbide sizer, they have good prices on most stuff. The RCBS set is 1/3 the price, I'm still rolling with taper crimp.
I'm in the same boat. If I happen by the shop and they still have them, I'll take a phone picture and post it. Either way, Lyman does make them as well (and explicitly lists them as "carbide" dies).
I have Dillon carbide dies in 223 and 308. First, they are good dies and if I needed what they do, I would have no compunction using them. Second the entire die is NOT carbide, there is a carbide ring set into the steel around the bottom where the case first enters the die. The rest of the die body is steel so you need lube. I don't use them any more because they are tighter than my Redding and RCBS dies, they size cases more than necessary, and the carbide doesn't do anything that I cannot get with just lube. Mostly the oversizing is the issue.
If there is an expander (I never use them) I am pretty sure it is steel. I cannot swear to it but I am pretty sure I am right.
It would be amazingly expensive to make an entire FL die out of carbide and carbide is brittle so they would be really delicate. I have some carbide bullet dies and it cost a fortune to have them re-burned for a new profile.
By the way, if anyone cares the bullet dies are 6mm, designed for 68 grain flat based ogive 6 BR bullets, and I have three dies (squirt, core seat, and point up) that are for sale along with presses, a few hundred jackets and some lead, a bit of lube, squirt punches -- the whole nine yards. I just don't shoot BR any more. Speedy Gonzales burned the point up die because some damn fool chipped it - not me. I think the dies are from Simonson but I bought them a long time ago and I no longer remember.
If there is an expander (I never use them) I am pretty sure it is steel. I cannot swear to it but I am pretty sure I am right.
It would be amazingly expensive to make an entire FL die out of carbide and carbide is brittle so they would be really delicate. I have some carbide bullet dies and it cost a fortune to have them re-burned for a new profile.
By the way, if anyone cares the bullet dies are 6mm, designed for 68 grain flat based ogive 6 BR bullets, and I have three dies (squirt, core seat, and point up) that are for sale along with presses, a few hundred jackets and some lead, a bit of lube, squirt punches -- the whole nine yards. I just don't shoot BR any more. Speedy Gonzales burned the point up die because some damn fool chipped it - not me. I think the dies are from Simonson but I bought them a long time ago and I no longer remember.
As you may or may not have seen before the post took a sidetrack into carbide reloading dies, I had a gunsmith scope the rifle chamber and check headspace. All good on that front. I heard back from Mike S. at Nosler that he received the cases and looked at them with some sort of microscope. He said that there were also some cracks (not visable to the naked eye) on the neck running parallel with the cases but he was turning them over to the lab for more in depth analysis. Haven't heard anything since then.
Yes, I know there is a lot of interest in this issue so I will be sure to let you know as I learn anything.
The brass might be experiencing a condition referred to as "cold short", which means brittle when cold.
I heard back from Nosler today but I'm not sure that I'm happy with the answer. They said they checked it over for various issues but it was one of 2 things 1) the brass was exposed to a chemical (cleaning fluid of some sort, horse pee- yes, he said horse pee). He said it wouldn't need to touch it but the vapor could be in the air which could make the brass brittle. He said this explanation wasn't too likely. 2) The other option was work hardening. He suspected that the die was moving the case too much in the area that is breaking (neck /shoulder junction) . I asked why it is doing that when it is only being bumped back 3-4 thousands and he didn't have an answer. He said that maybe the die is adjusted wrong. I wasn't aware that the shape of the die could be changed to make it hit one area more than the rest of the shoulder but what do I know. He said it could also be the bullet seating die moving something in the area that the cases are failing. So maybe I switch to my Hornady brass or switch dies?
I still want to know if the shoulder is being bumped or if it is just a neck sizing die
I think the point was that the ammonia in pee could weaken the brass if it came in contact with it. Evidently, some people must reload ammo in their stable
(QUOTE: I would switch dies may be to redding).....I currently have Redding dies which he suggested are the problem. You mention a two part process. why does this work better? FYI- I'm not trying to argue, just trying to learn.
I think the point was that the ammonia in pee could weaken the brass if it came in contact with it. Evidently, some people must reload ammo in their stable
LOL, I thought about editing my post and asking you to email Nosler again to ask if they keep horses in their factory or use them for delivery? Curious if they sniffed the brass to check for lingering ammonia smell.
Work hardening reply is plausible if brass has been massively mishandled but by ruling that out I would think it is simply defective brass they aren’t willing to admit to. ?
Are you using ammonia based bore cleaner, like Sweets ?
