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Yeah I like the looks of the 457 varmint but I wanted it threaded!Haven't had a T1x yet, so can't comment about those, but I DO have a pair of 457s
Started with a BMR but realized that that little, sweet-shooting little rifle wasn't the right tool for the PRS job. Got an At-One and fat fingered the web order and ended up with something closer, but still not quite right. Then I found a non-MTR Varmint that's a lot closer, but wish it had a threaded barrel so I can practice in my back yard.
Both are in KRG Bravos. The At=One has a suppressor on it to practice with.
Lots of 457s on the line at MARS matches I've been to, so if you're having mag issues, etc there are people with spares to borrow. Not so much with Tikkas or Savages, etc
Both my 457s are more accurate since I've tightened the nut that was loose behind the trigger.
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I am open to both but I do have a bias hahaThe T1x won the NRL22 Championship for 2023 season. The CZ 457 has a better aftermarket parts availability. Both will be a great rifle either way. Tith a screen name of Tikkaguy I'd say your mind is 3/4 the way leaning to the T1x no matter what!!
Yeah the smaller barrel does turn me off the T1x.I've had/have both.
I got a 457 Varmint for my son. Put it in an XLR Element 3.0 chassis with a full weight kit and it shoots great. It's not super picky about ammo. Put an Area419 30 MOA rail on it, and swapped the trigger spring with a YoDave. That's all it needed. Action is super smooth, fit and finish is great.
I liked it so much that I decided to get a T1x for myself. Put it in an identical XLR Element 3.0 chassis with the full weight kit. Ditto on the Area419 rail, trigger spring, etc. Set it up basically identical to the CZ.
Sold that Tikka after a couple of range sessions. It was nice, but never felt as nice as the CZ. I think the lighter barrel just played with my mind. It shot well, but never out shot the CZ. I think if I didn't have the CZ then I probably would have been fine with it.
I sold the Tikka and picked up a Vudoo for myself since I wanted a lefty bolt anyway and the Tikka and CZ couldn't be found in lefty 22lr.
I would put the CZ right up there with my Vudoo.
I'm likely to either find a local guy to thread my barrel or spend money on a different barrelYeah I like the looks of the 457 varmint but I wanted it threaded!
I have a smith that can thread locally. Are 457 barrel swaps easy?I'm likely to either find a local guy to thread my barrel or spend money on a different barrel
Haven't decided yet
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veryI have a smith that can thread locally. Are 457 barrel swaps easy?
Yeah I can imagine that. What tips on the cz?I have had both . I liked the CZ a little better . I now do not understand all the praise they get . I tried 3 CZ 22 lr and a Tikka . They all needed tweaking to shoot well .
Not the right stock for PRS. AMHIKWent to a shop yesterday, handled both. Wasn’t that impressed with the T1x. Cz felt a lot better built. Think I’ll end up with the cz. Probly get the “at one” stock even tho I hate the way they laminated them it’s a bit ugly haha but felt nice
My BMR, and both CZs haven't needed said tweaking.They are .22s. IMO they all need tweaking to feed, eject and shoot well. I have had 2 of the 1st Gen T1X and they needed a lot of attention to shoot well. But so did the CZs, Savages, Anschutz and Vudoos that I shoot against. My Vudoo 360 was every bit as bad for needing tweaking to operate and shoot well.
20” IBI 12T Calfee IV chamber. Next time I’ll go 14T with the IBI Prevail chamber and at least 24”. Looking for better balance and maybe a bit more consistent SD.Emerson0311,
What barrel did you put on your tikka ?
I like IBI barrels. I’ve got one on a 300PRC also. The T1X barrel is held in with grub screws and glue from the factory. Heat is required to melt the glue and loosen the screws to remove the factory barrel. The IBI one slips in. I used a piece of spent Eley brass to headspace it. My next 22LR build will be a 700 clone action with a barrel nut. If you keep T1X factory barrel, Tikka is fine. Otherwise, go CZ or custom action. My performs very well, but there is no reason to complicate your build like I did.IBI make a slip fit for the Tikka ? Shims ? How long of a wait ? I guess you are happy with it if your considering getting a second barrel ?
Not sure what your definition of "shoot well" is, but none of those should have issues feeding or ejecting. Even the savage.They are .22s. IMO they all need tweaking to feed, eject and shoot well. I have had 2 of the 1st Gen T1X and they needed a lot of attention to shoot well. But so did the CZs, Savages, Anschutz and Vudoos that I shoot against. My Vudoo 360 was every bit as bad for needing tweaking to operate and shoot well.
Imo, any of the slip-over and grub screw down rails suck. They're all wonky.Murphy Precision’s stainless (or titanium) pic rail is vastly superior to the dip rail (and other aluminum rails that use tiny grub screw to immobilize the rail on the dovetail).
Here’s are Murphy’s brass-tipped screws that hold the rail on. Way better.
View attachment 8249324
He can make 0-30moa rails, and I’ll bet he’d do others on a custom basis.
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CZ 457 - 11mm Dovetail
CZ 457 Scope Base - 11mm Dovetail. Stainless Steel or Titanium Picatinny Scope Mount for CZ Rimfire Rifleswww.murphyprecision.com
Imo, any of the slip-over and grub screw down rails suck. They're all wonky.
Even at the expense of added weight, I'd opt for a side screw setup.
This style is vastly superior
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HD CZ 457 Picatinny Rail Mount 20 MOA
Save 10% on a set of Keystone Rings with this rail and get free 2-Day shipping!*Mounting Hardware is IncludedThis mount fits:CZ 457Our CZ 452 mount will also fit the 457, but it will not completely cover the receiver as shown in the product image.*The Keystone Ring Combo discount is only...www.egwguns.com
I doubt highly that you're flexing the EGW mount. It's short, rigid, and the clamping force is like 30in lbs. It's also distributed evenly over 3.5 inches.Yeah, at first glance that sounds better, but you’re flexing aluminum to grip the rail. I’m not an engineer so I don’t know what is preferable.
I do like stainless or titanium for rails vs. aluminum on a centerfire. Probably no difference for a rimfire.
If the HD EGW rail was like picatinny rail with a loose clamping section and stop bolts I get it. But these darn rifle manufacturers insist on these aesthetically pleasing smooth gripless dovetails.
The EGW couldn’t be worse that those darn dip rails. The Murphy rail seems literally welded on with no torsional flex like the dip rails can get if you are not careful.
So, not saying you’re wrong, I just don’t know. I’m glad you provided another (probably) good option. I had forgotten about them.
I agree.I doubt highly that you're flexing the EGW mount. It's short, rigid, and the clamping force is like 30in lbs. It's also distributed evenly over 3.5 inches.
That's just not enough to cause flex.
So get bothBeen reading threads on these guns trying to decide which one to get and think it just makes the decision harder lol.
For some reason I revisited this thread and noticed that I made a mistake. The EGW rail has side clamps like centerfire rifle mounts have and does not rely upon the whole unit to squeeze/flex to grip the rail.I doubt highly that you're flexing the EGW mount. It's short, rigid, and the clamping force is like 30in lbs. It's also distributed evenly over 3.5 inches.
That's just not enough to cause flex.
I take it your experience with the 12t barrel wasn't entirely positive, hence going for a 14t in the future?20” IBI 12T Calfee IV chamber. Next time I’ll go 14T with the IBI Prevail chamber and at least 24”. Looking for better balance and maybe a bit more consistent SD.
I've taken it to 400ish without issue on 2/3 IPSC steel targets.How do the Tikka barrels (16.5T) do at long range (300+yds) ?
I tried to send them an email about this but couldn't find an contact info.I bet Tikka would have even more sale on T1X, if they would make a "varmint" model of that rifle with a heavier barrel.
But it would compete with the Sako rimifire, and they dont want that, even Tikka is the rifle that keeps the Sako factory running.
It is super tight elevation wise at 200+. There are some flyers that spoil most 1” ten shot groups at 100. Word is the 14T is a good middle ground that tightens up the vert at long range and keeps fliers resulting from non-uniform Rimfire bullets to a minimum. Always a compromise, just have to skew it toward your chosen game.I take it your experience with the 12t barrel wasn't entirely positive, hence going for a 14t in the future?
Does the 12T shoot worse inside of 100yards than a 16T?It is super tight elevation wise at 200+. There are some flyers that spoil most 1” ten shot groups at 100. Word is the 14T is a good middle ground that tightens up the vert at long range and keeps fliers resulting from non-uniform Rimfire bullets to a minimum. Always a compromise, just have to skew it toward your chosen game.