Shawn,
I didn't intend my post to be taken as aimed at anyone person, rather as a general statement for 457 owners to consider. The reason I brought it up is that I had the trigger on my 457 American work fine at the initial setting I arrived at by backing-off the sear engagement until it released, then increasing the engagement until it held through fast & hard bolt operation & a bump test. However, a few range sessions later, it went off while I was closing the bolt - and I wasn't running it fast or hard. Maybe my engagement adjustment didn't stay set where I had it, or perhaps the engagement surfaces wore-in a bit - or? I've since increased sear engagement again, after flushing the trigger housing with brake & parts cleaner, followed by several blasts of compressed air. That was several months ago, and since then, I've re-barreled the American with a Shilen blank, added a longer bolt knob, and shot it quite a bit, enjoying the improved accuracy afforded by the Shilen bbl. Never had another problem, never experienced any creep or other unpleasantness - and the more I shoot this rifle, the more I enjoy it. I believe the trigger breaks at 1-1/4lb currently, and though at first I thought it'd be easier to shoot if I did the YoDave spring installation, I've decided to leave it alone. It works great in offhand, isn't that hard to shoot off rests, and I feel pretty safe with it. That's not to say that I'm critical of owners doing the YoDave installation - to each his own.
Indeed, not too long ago, I posted my intentions to put the YoDave springs in both the American & my MTR. And I may yet use the spring in the MTR's trigger - it's a work in progress, also with a Shilen select match, ratchet rifled bbl. Though the Shilen on this rifle does shoot a bit better than the OEM MTR bbl, I feel there's more potential there, and to that end, will drill out the plastic pillars, replace them with aluminum ones, and bed the action. If that helps the accuracy, but I feel the OEM trigger is holding me back, I'll go with the lighter spring.
I remember that photo of the trigger you'd lapped from an earlier thread - that's impressive work. Not everyone has the skill or patience to get results like that. It does bring up the thought that, if both engagement surfaces have that fine a finish, I would think it has the potential of actually increasing the weight of pull due to more complete meshing/engagement of the two surfaces. It would need lubricant to avoid slip-stick or creep - or at least, that's what seems logical to me. Your thoughts?
As far as lefty222's drawing of the 457 trigger - when I first saw it, the sear engagement instructions were reversed, but he'd put up a note saying so. I don't recall whether he put the correction in textual form in a follow-up post, or added a note to his drawing? I first saw his drawing on RFC, and appreciated his taking the time to draw it out & label parts.
One more thought - I used to think the triggers on my Anschutz 1611 & 2011 rifles were lighter than anything else I'd used (with the exception of a 2oz Jewell on a used 6PPC BR rifle I'd bought), but after setting the Diamonds down to around 6-8oz, it made the trigger break on my 2011 seem rather heavy by comparison. I'll have to do some adjusting on the 2011's trigger down the road...
