Good info here guys! For those considering using the ultrasonic cleaners, which do work well, it helps to know how to use them in the best way possible.
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Suppressors Do you clean your suppressor?
- Thread starter parshal
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Solid! Thanks! I’ll put the tray in for the next cycle. Just two cycles and the water is already pitch black. Cannot even see the can any longer.
Had to pull it out of the jar and rinse/dry it to shoot it tomorrow. I was happy to see I shaved an entire oz off the weight. This is the most I have gotten out using Boretech in just 48 hours, so the ultra sonic definitely did most of the work. The blast chamber is getting better, but still has some large chunks left. I’ll throw it back in for a week after tomorrow.
The Jar
The Jar
From my experience with Boretech C4, the carbon will settle out in the jar after a day or two and is completely reusable. The way you're using it, not sure how helpful that is in trying to get the carbon out of the jar, but maybe it could be filtered through some coffee filters or something. Or maybe it doesn't matter if there's suspended carbon in it and just keep using it. Not sure on that, would love to hear some opinions.
Not worth the effort. Just buy another bottle.
On a side note I tried both C4 and Simple Green Heavy Duty. The C4 worked like a charm but the Simple Green is awesome too and is way cheaper. I've been impressed with it.
That’s what I keep saying here. I’m not saying it to sell Simple Green, I’m saying it because it works. Plus, as mentioned, ditch the jar and just use the solution directly in the US with the can submerged on the plastic tray that cones with it. A half dozen cycles or more over a period of a couple/few days will take out a bunch of carbon. Most all of it in my experience.
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That looks like another good option.
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You can’t put all chemicals in your US cleaner. I used a mason jar because I heard mineral spirits was a no go. And I used mineral spirits because that is what was recommended by SiCo.
I can completely understand not putting mineral spirits directly in there. It’s a flammable solvent and ultrasonic cleaners are electric plus they heat things up. Further, it is not recommended to use Simple Green on aluminum parts, so that is a consideration too.
Aware of flash points being a thing, I also wouldn‘t run the mason jar too long. I would let it cool down before running the cleaner. You are absolutely right, it does heat up.
After seeing my own results I don't think using an ultrasonic cleaner will help most people. If you have a really dirty can of course definitely use it. I am pretty much speculating that the ultrasonic cleaner pretty much speeds up the process a lot.
For me going forward once a year or whatever I will buy a gallon of heavy duty simple green for $13 bucks and put my suppressors in a little plastic container and just fill it up. If its bad after a day or two dump it out and refill it with clean simple green.
Based on a lot of posts here an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Don't let it get out of control and life will be much easier.
For me going forward once a year or whatever I will buy a gallon of heavy duty simple green for $13 bucks and put my suppressors in a little plastic container and just fill it up. If its bad after a day or two dump it out and refill it with clean simple green.
Based on a lot of posts here an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Don't let it get out of control and life will be much easier.
What makes you say this? Have you used an ultrasonic cleaner? I have done it both with and without the US cleaner and you can trust me when I say the US cleaner makes it work quicker.
Industrial cleaning processes use ultrasonic cleaning for a reason and that it because it works. Can you get things clean without it? Sure, but why not do it better?
I've never used an ultrasonic cleaner because don't have one yet.
It's not much more complicated than that. If I owned one I might try it but this is not really something that I feel is a reason to run out and buy more stuff. Of course if I used it in many different applications of course but it's not a mandatory thing for most people's needs (I would assume).That said I am always looking for good information. I'm glad other people are trying this stuff so I don't have to experiment on my own.
I can say, I wasn’t a believer either in the US, but it proved me wrong. About 48 hours with C4 and about 20 runs of the US removed 1 oz of weight. Before that, I was lucky to get a 1/4 oz soaking for almost 3 days.
That said, I did some mag dumps today on my SBR with the can. Finally got the sleeve to break loose. Its now soaking in Simple Green/US. Gonna leave it for a week.
That said, I did some mag dumps today on my SBR with the can. Finally got the sleeve to break loose. Its now soaking in Simple Green/US. Gonna leave it for a week.
I didn't say I didn't believe in ultrasonic cleaners. I said for most people it's probably not needed. If their supressor is really dirty then yes. It will cut the time down a lot I think.
In my case I got out over 1/2 oz in a couple of days with zero work put in. Between the C4 and simple green it gave me great results. C4 definitely worked but so did simple green. With C4 I bought 16oz for roughly $25 bucks and I had to figure out how to plug my suppressors up to hold the solution in. No big deal. With the heavy duty simple green I bought a gallon for $13 bucks (volume wise 8x more solution for more than $10 cheaper) so I could just drop the suppressors in and go.
Basically in the grand scheme of things a better bang for the buck and I had enough to submerge my cans in and had 1/2 a gallon left over and I didn't have to figure out how to plug the bore of the can.
In my case I got out over 1/2 oz in a couple of days with zero work put in. Between the C4 and simple green it gave me great results. C4 definitely worked but so did simple green. With C4 I bought 16oz for roughly $25 bucks and I had to figure out how to plug my suppressors up to hold the solution in. No big deal. With the heavy duty simple green I bought a gallon for $13 bucks (volume wise 8x more solution for more than $10 cheaper) so I could just drop the suppressors in and go.
Basically in the grand scheme of things a better bang for the buck and I had enough to submerge my cans in and had 1/2 a gallon left over and I didn't have to figure out how to plug the bore of the can.
The $1000 question though, is simple green safe for a Ti, stainless, and stellite suppressor?
People use CLR, even though MANY, including a suppressor manufacturer, have stated that CLR isn't so great for stainless.
People use CLR, even though MANY, including a suppressor manufacturer, have stated that CLR isn't so great for stainless.
I have a Recce 7 and while it has no titanium I would venture to say simple green would be safe on all of those. I'm not a chemist but based on my recent experience you will be fine.
No offense, I’m not going to ruin my suppressor and leave the potential for a pipe bomb blowing up on the end of my rifle because a couple of guys didn’t have any issues. The problem with this kind of stuff is, it’s absolutely fine, until it isn’t.
Ooohhh I won’t. When TBAC says not to, I listen. They have forgotten more info on suppressors than I have learned over the years.
TBAC says no to CLR and stainless right? But they do advise to use CLR on Ti. Thats how they clean them up i thought.
Absolutely. I agree 100%.
Find a piece of metal and soak it for a while before you dunk the can. CLR and Simple Green are two totally different things. I was scared that the simple green would harm the finish on my can but in the end all is well.
I will draw a kind of basic comparison between simple green and Seal 1 or Frog Lube. Simple Green is like a water format of those from what I can tell.
Of course do your own homework. It is not my can after all. I don't fault anyone for being cautious. I certainly was very cautious as well.
A warning about ultrasonic cleaners. Even though the manufacturer may state that the materials used in the suppressor are stainless steel or titanium; they may sneak a part or two in there that is made of aluminum.
I found that out with a couple of end caps in a couple of Sig pistol suppressors. The owner's manual and online literature stated that everything in the can was stainless steel and titanium.
I sent the cans off to Sig and they quickly replaced the end caps.
I found that out with a couple of end caps in a couple of Sig pistol suppressors. The owner's manual and online literature stated that everything in the can was stainless steel and titanium.
I sent the cans off to Sig and they quickly replaced the end caps.
Correct, a while ago, I posted something about how to clean my Omega and it was stated there. Others have said the same that CLR and stainless don’t mix. From what I could find in my research, CLR contains HCl which can cause problems with some metals, stainless included.
I believe that simple green is not good for aluminum unless it is the purple version.
https://simplegreen.com/industrial/products/extreme-aircraft-precision-cleaner/
simplegreen.com
I believe these two are aluminum safe. I have the latter and am going to try it on my Harvester.
https://simplegreen.com/industrial/products/extreme-aircraft-precision-cleaner/
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I believe these two are aluminum safe. I have the latter and am going to try it on my Harvester.
I believe that simple green is not good for aluminum unless it is the purple version.
https://simplegreen.com/industrial/products/extreme-aircraft-precision-cleaner/
Simple Green Household Cleaning Site
Simple Green | US | Household | Products | Pro Hd Cleaner DegreaserLearn about Simple Green's full line of environmentally safer household cleaning products. Discounts, cleaning tips, reviews, special offers and more.
I believe these two are aluminum safe. I have the latter and am going to try it on my Harvester.
I actually ordered the Aircraft one for my Harvester, though it’s not time for a cleaning, yet. I will however be using it soon on my 9mm can that is all aluminum.
Keep us posted.
@Zak Smith can you confirm what material the end caps are made of on the Take-Down 22? If the tube, and possibly the end caps, are Titanium, can those be cleaned with CLR while the 17-4 SS baffles are cleaned with another method?
Has anyone tried the Bore Tech "Rimfire Blend" solvent for soaking/cleaning rimfire baffles? I'm not interested in the Dip, and wondering if this solvent would possible be an easy way to potentially soak and wipe the baffles clean vs. tumbling them or other methods as I do not have an ultrasonic cleaner.
For sure this is safe on metals and works great in my experience. I've soaked SS and AL baffles as well as AL and TI tubes. Three different manufacturers and no coating damage.
Alright... I have finally gotten this thing cleaned. Took off 3.2oz and I’m calling it good. I’ll keep up on this once a year to hopefully reduce the amount of time it took.
So, what worked for me was soaking the can for days in Boretech C4, followed by ( at the recommendation of @ormandj ) running the can in then ultra sonic without the jar. I picked up a couple gallons of distilled water and ran the can in the ultra sonic with just distilled water. After a single cycle carbon was bleeding out.
Now, this probably took a good 50+ cycles of the US over the course of a few days, but it worked with no elbow grease. The soak in C4 and the US did all the work.
Before of the blast baffle and end baffle
After with blast baffle and end baffle
So, what worked for me was soaking the can for days in Boretech C4, followed by ( at the recommendation of @ormandj ) running the can in then ultra sonic without the jar. I picked up a couple gallons of distilled water and ran the can in the ultra sonic with just distilled water. After a single cycle carbon was bleeding out.
Now, this probably took a good 50+ cycles of the US over the course of a few days, but it worked with no elbow grease. The soak in C4 and the US did all the work.
Before of the blast baffle and end baffle
After with blast baffle and end baffle
What a great result, you've motivated me to break out my ultrasonic and get to cleaning all my suppressors while I wait on a few barrels to come in. Glad that worked for you! Just make sure to clean out the tank well to get any residue off, you don't want lead/carbon/etc gumming up the works. I have a dedicated ultrasonic just for firearms parts, sometimes I'll just throw an entire upper/lower combination in there, but most of the time just the BCG to get it all cleaned up. It goes without saying, don't use that one to clean jewelry or anything else, lots of nasty stuff in suppressors/firearms. Once you have one and figure out how to make it work best for you, it's hard to go back to other means of detail cleaning!
Have cleaned several of mine now over the last few months I’ll tell you this, make sure you blow it out with an air compressor really good because no matter how bad you think you cleaned everything out or got any loose carbon out, when you shoot it again for the first time you’ll still blow some stuff loose and have to dump it.
That being said, I think I’ve found the best way (for me at least) to get these good and cleaned quickly. I submerge the entire can into a bread pan with CLR and let sit for a good 24-30 hours and the next day carbon just puked out of it. After that a few cycles of the sonic cleaner with simple green to get the rest out and it’s as good as new
That being said, I think I’ve found the best way (for me at least) to get these good and cleaned quickly. I submerge the entire can into a bread pan with CLR and let sit for a good 24-30 hours and the next day carbon just puked out of it. After that a few cycles of the sonic cleaner with simple green to get the rest out and it’s as good as new
Simple Green 2.5 gallon with a empty 3 gallon pale. some brushes that's working for myself. you really don't need to much time of soaking.
Suppressor: Sico Omega 30
Approx. # of rounds fired: 3000
Weight before start of cleaning: 16.4oz with Direct thread mount and flat front cap (Neither could be unscrewed. End cap loosened after 2 days)
My technique so far has been 1 1/2 weeks in the ultrasonic cleaner in a simple green bath. I have been able to remove 1.2oz of carbon so far. I'm working from home and run the Ultrasonic around 15 cycles per day. This is frustratingly slow. Suggestions? Boretech C4?
And I have been unable to get the direct thread coupler unscrewed on the blast chamber end. Can someone recommend a technique to help?
BTW the sleeve came loose a couple days ago. I guess I just use Rocksett on the threads when I screw it back on.
Thanks
Approx. # of rounds fired: 3000
Weight before start of cleaning: 16.4oz with Direct thread mount and flat front cap (Neither could be unscrewed. End cap loosened after 2 days)
My technique so far has been 1 1/2 weeks in the ultrasonic cleaner in a simple green bath. I have been able to remove 1.2oz of carbon so far. I'm working from home and run the Ultrasonic around 15 cycles per day. This is frustratingly slow. Suggestions? Boretech C4?
And I have been unable to get the direct thread coupler unscrewed on the blast chamber end. Can someone recommend a technique to help?
BTW the sleeve came loose a couple days ago. I guess I just use Rocksett on the threads when I screw it back on.
Thanks
For that amount of carbon I definitely would fill the can up with C4. I have tried simple green and I like that a lot, but for the heavy jobs that can be stubborn I wouldn't hesitate to buy more C4. For your case maybe buy two of the big bottles of C4...if you don't use it all up it won't go bad and you can use it later.
There seems to be a lot of confusion being caused by people equating the cleaning of rimfire cans to the cleaning of centerfire cans. They are not equal and the cleaning methods differ somewhat.
As far as using SS pins in a tumbler to clean you can, that is fine for the cans that can be completely disassembled, but I cannot see how it can be considered for welded cans.
As far as using SS pins in a tumbler to clean you can, that is fine for the cans that can be completely disassembled, but I cannot see how it can be considered for welded cans.
If you have a suppressor where you can take the baffles out (if those baffles are made out of the right kind of material to withstand tumbling) that is the best way. Those are PRIMARILY rimfire cans.
This thread is not about rimfire cans. It's about sealed cans such as 5.56 or .30 caliber suppressors where there is no way to take them apart.
I do not clean the mufflers in my car, so I will just continue shooting my 15 yo 30 caliber Surefire. The 5 yo AEM5 will be treated the same.
For you guys in the military who used suppressors, did/do you clean issued cans?
For you guys in the military who used suppressors, did/do you clean issued cans?
I do not clean mine. I have a 45 can that i guess i could take apart and clean but i just grease the threads and let it rip. Supersonic cleaners are probably fine with them but I have not used them on mine
Checked the boretech website looking for that can cleaner they were blending up last year and it’s still not on the website. I’ve been getting good results with Eliminator and C4 so I’m not too broken up about the wait.
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