CLR worked great on my harvester. I soaked mine 3 times at an hour each time. I will probably let it sit longer next time, because there was still a little carbon on some of the baffles.
Suppressors Do you clean your suppressor?
- Thread starter parshal
- Start date
I put mine in carb cleaner... took the finish right off.
just got done having refinished...
Ouch!
Yeah, mine is just soaking inside, outside un touched for now.
1 hour in...
Lots’O Bubbles
Really curious to see how this turns out for you, fingers crossed for you!
Is the suppressor just sitting in a plastic tupperware? What is keeping it from leaking out the bottom?
Worse case, I gotta still scrape crap out and my ultra sonic will be delivered next week. Best case, it looks brand new.
It’s plugged with Play-Doh at the threaded end and just poured the CLR in.
Pulled it after 2.5 hours of soaking. Rinsed with a hose and air dried with my compressor. This is going to take a lot more. Only shaved .10oz off. Some of it I cannot even take off with a flat head, its that caked.
Might do one more soak tomorrow with the CLR, then see what else I can scrape out. After that, Ill see what then BoreTech soak and ultra sonic can do.
Might do one more soak tomorrow with the CLR, then see what else I can scrape out. After that, Ill see what then BoreTech soak and ultra sonic can do.
I'm gonna use CLR on the inside, and plug the one end with the same stopper I use for bore cleaning / soaking.
(Once I regain my manhood after the prior screw up
)
(Once I regain my manhood after the prior screw up
)
I don't know if this will help but read it on another forum. Someone boiled their baffles from a .22LR suppressor in white vinegar for 15 minutes and claimed it got them sparkling clean.
The baffles from my .22 LR can still had caked on lead and stubborn carbon after tumbling with water, Dawn soap, citric acid and steel chips.
So I put the hot plate outside with an old pot filled with white vinegar. I put the temperature on high and dumped in the baffles. It took a while for the vinegar to come to a boil. After it got to a good boil, I left it that way for about 15-20 minutes. Then I let everything cool.
Once cool, I separated the baffles from the vinegar, rinsed with water and let them dry. In place of the lead was a fine off-white powder that came off easily with a pick.
I'm not a chemist but I believe the powder residue was the lead oxide in solid form. I was comfortable with cleaning that off the baffles with proper PPE.
BTW, it only took a few minutes to remove the powdered substance from the baffles.
I don't know if this will work for you and I haven't tried it with the center-fire cans yet but thought I would throw this out there for you. Vinegar is cheap.
Still 3.5oz over the factory weight. I don’t need spotless, but I would like to shave off another 2 oz, then test and see if its suppression is better. It has gotten louder.
FWIW, the water was dark and a ton of black specs came out with it, so its working... but after 5,000 rounds, its gonna take some time.
Yeah, the 22 supressors tend to need serious cleaning. I've been using the Clean-22 stuff (nylon coated) ammo from CCI.
The last time that I shot my Savage B22 with a can, I put several hundred rounds of the CCI 45 grain suppressor fodder through it.
BTW, I put a lot of CLP on the baffles after they are clean and reinserted into the suppressor. In the past this has helped to keep most of the carbon fouling soft and easy to wipe off with a paper towel or rag. However, this has previously not been enough to mitigate lead build up.
Anyway, I put a lot of the 45 grain ammo through the rifle along with the M&P 15-22.
When I disassembled both cans I discovered ZERO lead build up. There was a lot of carbon fouling that was easily wiped away due to the aforementioned CLP treatment but no lead build up.
My theory for no lead residue is because the bullets were moving out of both rifles at about 985 FPS (chronographed). So this must have reduced the speed and heat at which the lead fragments met the baffles.
BTW, all I hear is a click of the firing pin and plop of the bullet down range. My 10-shot groups with the Savage were a little less then 1/2" at 50 yards.
I did a little experiment with the C4. I soaked two cans. One was 5.56 and the other .30 cal.
The .30 cal gave me around .5oz of carbon that was removed. It is still over factory spec weight by less than .3oz. I could probably get more out of there but I ran out of C4.
The 5.56 can gave me a bit of carbon as well but not as much as the 5.56 can.
Long story short I am a believer now for sure. I will clean my cans one a year or whatever is needed.
The .30 cal gave me around .5oz of carbon that was removed. It is still over factory spec weight by less than .3oz. I could probably get more out of there but I ran out of C4.
The 5.56 can gave me a bit of carbon as well but not as much as the 5.56 can.
Long story short I am a believer now for sure. I will clean my cans one a year or whatever is needed.
CLR does not damage ceracoat , all of my cans have been soaked in it .
I use a cheap plastic graduated cylinder to soak them in . Put a rubber washer in the bottom to space the can off the bottom and fill the cylinder till the can is covered . The space from the bottom allows the chemical reaction to circulate through the can . I let mine soak 24ish hours between rinse cycles .
Also you don't need new chemical every time , the carbon will settle out and I just top off for what is used in the reaction . A gallon of the Zep branded , less than 20$ a gallon at home depot , stuff lasts a long time cleaning 4 different cans . Cover the cylinder when not being used or it's going to evaporate more than you use .
I use a cheap plastic graduated cylinder to soak them in . Put a rubber washer in the bottom to space the can off the bottom and fill the cylinder till the can is covered . The space from the bottom allows the chemical reaction to circulate through the can . I let mine soak 24ish hours between rinse cycles .
Also you don't need new chemical every time , the carbon will settle out and I just top off for what is used in the reaction . A gallon of the Zep branded , less than 20$ a gallon at home depot , stuff lasts a long time cleaning 4 different cans . Cover the cylinder when not being used or it's going to evaporate more than you use .
Yes it will , don't soak aluminum in any of the acidic chemicals , some stainless also . All my stuff is Ti .
Like posted earlier this thread was directed around centerfire not rimfire suppressors . The chemicals that work with carbon are different than lead .
Like posted earlier this thread was directed around centerfire not rimfire suppressors . The chemicals that work with carbon are different than lead .
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What are some products that work better on lead that I can buy and test out? I tried C4 for the carbon and it worked awesome.
I put mine in carb cleaner... took the finish right off.
just got done having refinished...
My US took off a wee bit of cerakote but I run a cover so I don't really care. The blast baffle is a bitch to get spotless but a 24hrs soak in BoreTech followed by a good run in the US with straight simple green did the trick!
Read the warnings on the side of the bottle , is your lifetime purchase worth being damaged by a bad chemical reaction ? Thats why there are special formulas of the acidic cleaners for aluminum like the Simple Green aircraft cleaners .
Can tell you without a doubt CLR stained my stainless sink by only being on it about 8 hours . Definitely a different alloy stainless hence " some stainless " .
Rimmfire stuff is pretty much hydrogen peroxide and vinegar 50/50 which when reacting with lead makes lead acetate which is toxic .
Can tell you without a doubt CLR stained my stainless sink by only being on it about 8 hours . Definitely a different alloy stainless hence " some stainless " .
Rimmfire stuff is pretty much hydrogen peroxide and vinegar 50/50 which when reacting with lead makes lead acetate which is toxic .
For anyone running an Omega 300, here is weight specs of a new can/accessories. I didn’t run these... just copied from another site.
Omega Body Only -Nothing Screwed In Either End: 10.08 Oz. (.630 Lb)
Omega with 5/8-24 Direct Thread Mount and .30 Flat Front : 13.76 Oz. (.860 Lb)
Omega with ASR Mount, 5/8-24 Muzzle Brake, Finned Front: 18.96 Oz. (1.185 Lb)
ASR Mount and 5/8-24 Muzzle Brake (only): 7.52 Oz. (.470 Lb)
Direct Thread Mount: 2.32 Oz. (.145 Lb)
.30 Cal Finned Front Cap: 1.44 Oz. (.090 Lb)
Flat Front Cap: 1.36 Oz. (.085 Lb)
Omega Body Only -Nothing Screwed In Either End: 10.08 Oz. (.630 Lb)
Omega with 5/8-24 Direct Thread Mount and .30 Flat Front : 13.76 Oz. (.860 Lb)
Omega with ASR Mount, 5/8-24 Muzzle Brake, Finned Front: 18.96 Oz. (1.185 Lb)
ASR Mount and 5/8-24 Muzzle Brake (only): 7.52 Oz. (.470 Lb)
Direct Thread Mount: 2.32 Oz. (.145 Lb)
.30 Cal Finned Front Cap: 1.44 Oz. (.090 Lb)
Flat Front Cap: 1.36 Oz. (.085 Lb)
I soaked my 30P-1 for over a week full of CLR. It takes a lot more than a few hours for it to work. Plug it, fill it, and check it after a week. CLR will not hurt stainless or titanium.
Currently it's sitting in BoreTech C4 again for the remainder of the week, until my ultra sonic arrives, then I'll give that thing a whirl. I also picked up some Simple Green to go into the US. I'm just throwing shit at the walls at this point and seeing what sticks.
I tried getting the tube off this weekend and it was a fail. Apparently I have the one Omega cover that refuses to dislodge. I submerged it in water for over an hour and it still didn't break down the Rocksett. If I can get that thing off, I'll drop it in a tub of CLR and walk away.
I did order one of these to help hold it while I use the wrench to break it free
Vox Blox Vise Soft Jaws - Energetic Armament
energeticarms.com
#firstworldproblems
You saw from my posts in this thread, the ultra sonic cleaner and mineral spirits combined with C4, got my Omega as good as new.
So many options and opinions ... many that directly conflict. Hoping to get an authoritative answer from someone that owns my specific suppressor ... vs. speculation or opinion about what "might" or "should" happen. (So please humor me.)
I have a SilencerCo Chimera-300. It's several ounces heavier that when I bought it, and I've used it a lot. My plan is to:
Will I be OK with "this" plan on "this" suppressor?
Rusty
I have a SilencerCo Chimera-300. It's several ounces heavier that when I bought it, and I've used it a lot. My plan is to:
- Remove mount and end-cap
- Soak the can in CLR solution for 24 hours
- Rinse with faucet water
- Place in my ultrasonic cleaner (plastic basket) filled with Simple Green solution for 10 minutes
- Flush with hose water under pressure
- Blow dry with compressed air and let stand to dry for 24 hours
Will I be OK with "this" plan on "this" suppressor?
Rusty
My Hybrid 46 was 14.6 ounces out of the box with no mounts or end caps. I had one range day with it so far on 4 different firearms and while not heavily soiled, I decided to preemptively clean it using bore tech c4. I got some rubber stoppers at a hardware store that fit an end cap and one for a direct thread mount and filled it up last night. No leaks and I didn’t use anything like thread tape or anything, just hand tight. I’ve been giving it a shake now and then throughout the day and will see how it looks after dinner. Will probably use a couple of coffee filters and see how much carbon I can get out of the solution and see about saving the c4 for the next go around.
I’m also waiting to see what miracle product they will be releasing specifically for suppressors in the hopefully near future.
I’m also waiting to see what miracle product they will be releasing specifically for suppressors in the hopefully near future.
That's what I did and it worked great. I didn't go 24 hours with the CLR but mine wasn't that heavy. Only place I deviated was using "Extreme" Simple Green (Doesn't smell like sasafass. Personal preference.) and I didn't use compressed air. I just shook the shit out of it and let it dry standing up (blast baffle side down cause gravity and the shape of the baffles) on a microfiber towel for a day. Body weighs 14.2 ounces now and I have no idea what it weighed new but there is nary a speck of carbon in it!
P.S. An ultrasonic will take off cerakote.
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I took my Quiet Bore 5.56MM apart after a couple hundred rounds through it.
I spayed the Hoppes Elite solvent over everything and inside the tube. I worked on something else for several hours than wiped the excess crud off with paper towels.
That took a lot off but there was still a thin layer of encrusted carbon on the metal surfaces.
So I sprayed the parts and a Scotch Brite pad and rubbed it all off except for some faint traces of fouling here and there. It wasn't shiny clean like it was brand new but sufficient enough to apply a thin coat of CLP and reassemble.
Total time to clean this by hand was probably an hour. Remember that I let the parts soak in the Hoppes Elite for several hours which I think does the bulk of the work.
The Scotch Brite pad is great at getting a lot of the encrusted carbon fouling off.
I spayed the Hoppes Elite solvent over everything and inside the tube. I worked on something else for several hours than wiped the excess crud off with paper towels.
That took a lot off but there was still a thin layer of encrusted carbon on the metal surfaces.
So I sprayed the parts and a Scotch Brite pad and rubbed it all off except for some faint traces of fouling here and there. It wasn't shiny clean like it was brand new but sufficient enough to apply a thin coat of CLP and reassemble.
Total time to clean this by hand was probably an hour. Remember that I let the parts soak in the Hoppes Elite for several hours which I think does the bulk of the work.
The Scotch Brite pad is great at getting a lot of the encrusted carbon fouling off.
Does anybody here have a sico saker? Im guessing the build characteristics between The 556 and 762 are the same except for diameter of bullet it is rated for... how are you guys cleaning these? Not much info out there about cleaning them like aluminum or titanium suppressors. Its easy cleaning my tbac but i cant find solid info on it. It would be nice to just fill it up with clr like my tbac but not sure if it will handle it with the kinds of stainless and other metals it is made out of. BTW, i have the 556k. Thanks guys.
My US arrives today. Doing this exact combo since your results were good. I've been trying to get the outer tube off my Omega, but this thing is not coming off. Perhaps the US will break it down finally, but at this point I could care less about the cerakote coming off.
I haven’t tried this myself but a friend of mine used distilled water instead of tap water. He said the difference was amazing.
The directions of most US cleaners say to use distilled water. I ignored that and used tap water.
My friend had a good reason for why distilled water worked better. Tap water contains all sorts of additives but distilled doesn’t.
So with tap water the solution gets saturated faster with the cleaning agent and the contaminants that the cleaner is supposed to remove from the metal surfaces.
There is more room in distilled water for both the cleaning agent and contaminants to go. This makes the cavitation action more effective.
It’s similar to what happens when you put too much salt in a glass of water. The excess settles in the bottom of the glass.
That’s the best way I can explain it. The next time I use the US cleaner I will have to try distilled water.
I'm not sure what part(s) of the SiCo suppressors are Stainless Steel, but their rifle suppressors are all listed as having SS.
Based on this thread with information from Zak, CLR is not recommended for more than 15 minutes in contact with SS. I know when I get around to cleaning my Omega I'll be trying something other than CLR out of caution. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/omega-cleaning.6957534/
Based on this thread with information from Zak, CLR is not recommended for more than 15 minutes in contact with SS. I know when I get around to cleaning my Omega I'll be trying something other than CLR out of caution. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/omega-cleaning.6957534/
Thats why i am hesitant to just fill it with clr and walk away like i do my tbac cans. I guess i could just fill it up with boretech and let it work but thats kinda expensive compared to other chemicals/cleaners that can be picked up at auto parts stores or lowes.
I agree. CLR has been great on my Ultra7, but I have yet to clean my Takedown-22 (SS baffles) or my Omega. A 16oz bottle of Boretech C4 is about the price of a box of ammo ($27), so if one bottle can clean an Omega it's not too bad of a cost if it's a once a year type thing. I'd have to fill up the can with water to see how many ounces I'd need.
The other option is M-Pro 7, which I've seen OSS suppressors recommend for their "soak then shoot" cleaning plan, which is actually really cool when they shoot the carbon and liquid out in slow motion haha. A 1-gallon jug of M-Pro 7 is $60, so that could be more economical if it works as well as Boretech C4.
This is why I didn't use CLR. If you go back in the thread (post 156) , I just put my omega in a mason jar with mineral spririts (recommended by SiCo) and put the mason jar in the ultrasonic cleaner. After doing that for about a day, the mineral spirits was black. Then I put a cork in the end cap and filled it with the Boretech C4. After a day of that and some elbow grease and a pick, my suppressor looked as good as new.
I may end up just running boretech in it unless someone else puts out some sound advice on other cleaners that would be better.
I thought about mineral spirits as well as it can be bought in big jugs for a decent price and I had read before about people using it in Sico cans. But then again, it has a strong smell and if I’m talking about soaking it in a suppressor for days or a week then I can‘t do it in the house or my hot garage and let the fumes build up.
By putting it in a mason jar, the fumes are kept to a minimum. The only exposure I had was when I was handling the suppressor, when I did that I just stepped outside. As far as the C4, I actually enjoyed the smell of that. It smells like citrus.
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True, a sealing container would be the ticket on fumes.. and ditto on the smell of Boretech.. that and Hopes are fairly close.
Hard to tell from that picture, but if the jar is sitting on top of the transducers, you're not going to get much ultrasonic cleaning action. Additionally, the jar itself may dampen some of the action, even if not on a transducer. Pull that out of your ultrasonic cleaner, put a piece of foil in just the water in the cleaner, and run it. It should eat through the foil (no need to let it finish, just look for little holes to form with it dipped in there). Repeat the experiment with a jar and water and foil. That's a good way to make sure you're not just spinning wheels. Normally there are little baskets with standoffs to prevent items from directly sitting on transducers, or overhead fixtures on larger units that allow suspending the item in the tank with wire.
Also, definitely used distilled, ultrasonic cleaners work through cavitation and the minerals in tap water make it less effective, in addition to all of the molecular/atomic interactions that mineral/contaminate binding prevents. Pre-warm the distilled water, and run a 10 minute cycle before cleaning something, that'll prepare you for the most efficient cleaning you can accomplish with a small/low power ultrasonic cleaner like that one appears to be. Every little bit helps!
