Suppressors Do you clean your suppressor?

I thought you were trolling. Either way, I would go back and read the thread. Your last statement is demonstrably false.

True. Maybe I should have stated they don't need to be cleaned as much. But, that also depends on how much use they get as well. For a low round count can you could say it would never "need" to be cleaned.
I did go back and scan over the thread again.

No, I was not trying to troll.
 
I think the “just keep shooting it” can apply if u are running them hard. Fast rates of fire, mag dumps and full auto will blow some shit out, but lets face it... most here are taking their time between shots and not laying down suppressive fire.

If the leader is precision rifle suppressors (Thunderbeast) says to clean at least once a year, I would follow.
 
I think the “just keep shooting it” can apply if u are running them hard. Fast rates of fire, mag dumps and full auto will blow some shit out, but lets face it... most here are taking their time between shots and not laying down suppressive fire.

If the leader is precision rifle suppressors (Thunderbeast) says to clean at least once a year, I would follow.
I’m thinking so because all of m Omegas are ran on my AR’s and on 2 of them I have well over 10k rounds and they’re not barely an ounce over weight.
 
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I think the “just keep shooting it” can apply if u are running them hard. Fast rates of fire, mag dumps and full auto will blow some shit out, but lets face it... most here are taking their time between shots and not laying down suppressive fire.

If the leader is precision rifle suppressors (Thunderbeast) says to clean at least once a year, I would follow.
You bring up a really good point. I didn't think about how thermal stress and varying expansion characteristics of the can/contaminates would impact "self cleaning". But like you said, if my can is getting REALLY hot, so is my barrel. If my barrel is getting hot, I stop shooting to take care of my gear so it's a moot point.

And as far as the low round count comment made by @Bumpin88, you are probably right. But considering the benefits of using a suppressor, the number of hosts I have for my Omega grows every year. I'm up to 8 already, and rounds add up quickly when you shoot the same can on 8 different rifles.
 
You bring up a really good point. I didn't think about how thermal stress and varying expansion characteristics of the can/contaminates would impact "self cleaning". But like you said, if my can is getting REALLY hot, so is my barrel. If my barrel is getting hot, I stop shooting to take care of my gear so it's a moot point.

And as far as the low round count comment made by @Bumpin88, you are probably right. But considering the benefits of using a suppressor, the number of hosts I have for my Omega grows every year. I'm up to 8 already, and rounds add up quickly when you shoot the same can on 8 different rifles.

Time to buy another! I have a Harvester in Jail currently. Gonna order an Ultra 7 or 9 eventually, prolly in the spring. My dealer keeps telling me he will get them soon, but never happens.
 
I think the “just keep shooting it” can apply if u are running them hard. Fast rates of fire, mag dumps and full auto will blow some shit out, but lets face it... most here are taking their time between shots and not laying down suppressive fire.

If the leader is precision rifle suppressors (Thunderbeast) says to clean at least once a year, I would follow.


So, in full auto testing on a 556 sbr, getting the can glowing every 200rd, we had a about 1oz per 1000rd.
 
Thunder Beast is very backed up but Mile High shooting has the ultra 7 in stock, just happened to see it yesterday.

almost did that last year, but was trying to be patient and wait for my dealer to come through. Honestly its probably my only way at this point, aside from SilencerShop.

First world problems.
 
what about hydrogen peroxide is bad mixed with lead? Its my understanding that lead would serve as a catalyst for H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) to split into 1/2 O2 + H2O and the lead may or may not oxidize depending on the concentration.

It's not the Hydrogen Peroxide alone, either.

Mixing hydrogen peroxide with vinegar makes peracetic acid. Peracetic acid, when combined with lead, forms lead acetate in liquid form. This can be absorbed through your skin and result in lead poisoning.
 
It's not the Hydrogen Peroxide alone, either.

Mixing hydrogen peroxide with vinegar makes peracetic acid. Peracetic acid, when combined with lead, forms lead acetate in liquid form. This can be absorbed through your skin and result in lead poisoning.
Looks like Peracetic acid is mainly antibacterical and wouldn't do a great job of cleaning anyway. Good to know. Thanks for the chemistry lesson
 
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what about hydrogen peroxide is bad mixed with lead? Its my understanding that lead would serve as a catalyst for H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) to split into 1/2 O2 + H2O and the lead may or may not oxidize depending on the concentration.
Im glad someone with more chemistry know all had the actual words to describe it, I just know that I was told vinegar on its own wont do much.

And when it came to explaining why I couldnt figure out why the acetic acid would eat the lead itself like you did, I guess because it needs to be peracetic acid for some extra oxygen or hydrogen acid components to oxidize the lead first that then gets eaten up to make the bad stuff?

Image result for idiot gif
 
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Depends on the suppressor. On encapsulated baffle suppressors I don't. On unshielded baffle suppressors, I disassemble them, and clean them enough so that they'll go back in the tube. Pistons and 3-lug mount components get stainless pin tumbled more often to keep them clean.
 
I'm getting my hybrid 46 later this year. Should i weigh it before shooting the first time? Is there anything i can coat it in to help the carbon build-up? Would some moly, MP- 50 high temp, high pressure, molybdenum disulfide help ?
 
I'm getting my hybrid 46 later this year. Should i weigh it before shooting the first time? Is there anything i can coat it in to help the carbon build-up? Would some moly, MP- 50 high temp, high pressure, molybdenum disulfide help ?
I would definitely weigh it with your set up as weights can vary based on end caps, attachment mechanisms etc. As far as a coating goes, who knows, it’s worth a try as long as you don’t mind being the guinea pig. It might be worth a shot, but keep in mind the suppressor internal environment is one of the harshest you can find.

A couple years ago, I heard Josh from PVA say that he had seen Schlerin imagery showing gasses coming from a muzzle being at speeds in excess of Mach 5. At those speeds, gases may not be gases anymore. Plasma can be created in the hypersonic realm of speed. Plasma is no joke.
 
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I would definitely weigh it with your set up as weights can vary based on end caps, attachment mechanisms etc. As far as a coating goes, who knows, it’s worth a try as long as you don’t mind being the guinea pig. It might be worth a shot, but keep in mind the suppressor internal environment is one of the harshest you can find.

A couple years ago, I heard Josh from PVA say that he had seen Schlerin imagery showing gasses coming from a muzzle being at speeds in excess of Mach 5. At those speeds, gases may not be gases anymore. Plasma can be created in the hypersonic realm of speed. Plasma is no joke.


And bonus
 
It looks like the outer sleeve has released. What caused that? Do yo think it was due to the engine cleaner? Mine released due to light use after about 2 years and SiCo reglued it for me.
I took the outer sleeve off before cleaning just to make sure it wouldn't get damaged. My sleeve has been loose fore a while. You just have to unscrew the suppressor off your barrel by the adapter and not the body.
 
I took the outer sleeve off before cleaning just to make sure it wouldn't get damaged. My sleeve has been loose fore a while. You just have to unscrew the suppressor off your barrel by the adapter and not the body.

Yes, sir. Mine got stuck on the ASR mount guten tight once and I tried cranking it off and it came loose pretty easily when trying to get max grip on the whole unit. This was even after a liberal use of nickel anti-seize on the threads and bearing surfaces. I asked SiCo if they'd send me back an extra wrench after the reglue, which they did, and now a stuck mount or can on mount should never be a problem again as one can use the two spanner wrenches and counter rotate them to break free what you need.

Was more curious if the top engine cleaner would harm the outer sleeve bond. But I suppose a guy could just fill up the inside of the can with it and not soak the whole thing.
 
Ended up trying the CLR soak on my Omega over the last three days. Started at 442 grams and ended at 434 grams. With anchor brake and ASR mount, the manufacturer spec for the Omega is 14.8 ounces and where it's at now at 434 grams equals 15.3 ounces. It sure looks a lot nicer inside but 8 grams is not very much so I wonder where the other extra half ounce is? I did try 100 rounds of powder coated lead 300BLK bullets from Leatherhead Bullets through it at one time, weighing first and seeing if there was any lead being deposited, and that is where the weight gain came from according to my notes. But 225 grains of lead deposited in 100 rounds?? That seems unlikely. Seriously considering the 'dip' to dissolve any lead that may be in between the baffles but thinking about waiting until Boretech releases their suppressor cleaning product first. I'll give that a try before the 'dip'.
 
I checked the Boretech site this morning. Nothing yet in the new products section.
I hope it shows up soon as my Omega is about 2oz over original weight so I know I have a carbon build up problem.
 
I too am still waiting for an announcement email. However, with the Kung Flu shutting everything down, I’m sure they too are feeling the effects of this. They told me Spring, I would think maybe mid Summer, now.

I would say you can do what I did and let it for a good week (boretech C4)
 
I cleaned it two weekends ago, forgot to weigh the stuff. D'oh!

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Its low in that pic because when I first filled the thin whiskey glass that fit the can perfectly the thing started fizzing and foaming and it was bubbling over and going every where, thats how low I had to go pouring it out before it would stop overflowing, as it settled down I would add more to fill it all the way up.

You can see the shit that was bubbling up and out of it leaving the goop behind.
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Take the back adapters loose frequently or youll damn near never get it off.
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Should have taken before after pics of the insides too. I should do these projects when Im not in a hurry to do something else. After a soaking I took a screw driver and scrapped and popped off the carbon on the inside of the blast and end chambers, cant really get inside to touch any of the rest of it.
 
I just cleaned my ultra 7 .30. I try to clean it once a year. It probably had 300-400 rounds of 30-06, about 400 rounds of 6.5 creed and 200-300 5.56 out of the AR. I did not weigh it but it definitely surprised me at all the black gunk that came out of it and chunks of carbon that could barely fit out of the end the bullet exits.... only powders fired through it were H4381sc, varget, and rl16.
 
Harbor freight ultra sonic with CLR cleaned my OSS Rad 22 baffles like new. but I dont think ill clean my center fire Omega.... I'll just keep firing it till it fails....
 
That’s the complicated part, proper disposal of the poison you create by using this concoction. Hard to figure out a safe way to dispose of the lead acetate.

I used the mix once, soaked it for a week. Still had to clean it in the ultrasonic cleaner with simple green about 6 times afterwards to get the crap out.

Now, I just use CLR in the Ultrasonic cleaner a couple times, then rinse and use simple green in the USC for 4-5 more times. Takes one evening and does the same thing in my opinion.
People keep saying CLR. Do they mean calcium lime rust, or CLP?
 
I sent an Ultra 7 to TBAC to remove the insert to go from direct thread to CB mount. When I weighed the box I thought to myself "that's pretty heavy". I got a call from them the day they received it and they said it should be cleaned asit was nearly 4 oz. heavy. I've never cleaned it and have, maybe, 2000 rounds down it. It's probably more like 1200. No H1000 which was the first question asked of me. In any case, they said it might take a few weeks to get it thoroughly cleaned. Luckily, I don't need it for a while.

The rest of my cans can all be taken apart so I decided to clean them, too. I was easily able to take apart the two rimfire ones but the other two center fire (Lane) are a bugger. I've got them soaking in CLR now.

I searched around the net and I see lots of people saying you don't need to clean a centerfire can. Then, there are others that do regularly. Just curious what you folks here are doing. Are you regularly cleaning your centerfire cans?
I clean my Silencer Central suppressor after every 150 to 200 rds. I use CLR on the baffles to clean them like new. Plug the tube with a plastic plug and let CLR soak inside tube for about an hour and than use a steel brush to clean the inside.