Getting back to the OP. The thing that stood out was that you saw movement immediately after mounting, not after shooting 20 rounds of .338 LM. To me that sounds like it could possibly be a manufacturers defect in either the tolerances of the mount or tube. If so I would not try and make up for that with rosin. Can I ask what the scope is? Have you measured it and compared it to other scopes? Measured the mount? How about exchanging the mount for another and see what happens? Just throwing this out not trying to bait anyone.
My 34mm tubes are tighter than an Asian prom date in my Spuhrs.
My 34mm tubes are tighter than an Asian prom date in my Spuhrs.
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I have 5 Spuhr mounts on 5 of my SWSs in 308w , 300wm and 338Lm ,no lapping , no scratches, I have never had any issue at all , in my honest opinion these mounts are the best money can buy actually ,
PP out
PP out
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Pleistarchus
Guest
Like others that claim they have no issues and swear by the Spuhr mount, there are those like me who have had slipping. And since the manual clearly asks to use Rosin on the tube and rings, and loctite on the screws, Spuhr must have realized slipping without these materials prior to initial distribution thus clearing them of any claim of manufacturers defect when not using these materials to mount a scope. My scope as I said previously is a S&B PMII 5-25 and since Spuhr uses this model as their premier example of presenting their mount I don't believe measuring is necessary.
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My S&B 5-25x was tight in the mount after torquing the rings down each time. I didn't do a torture test trying to twist or shift it, but it didn't move in normal non-firing conditions (you know, the super tought trips from the car to the line, haha). My scope did not shift in the mount until I began firing.
Pleistrchus and myself seem to definitely be in the minority here as others have not had the same conditions repeated. While we may have gotten the ones that passed their QC, I can not say this for certain. I figure only Hakan can speak to that definitively. However, until then I still got plety of rosin left to send out if anyone doesn't have it and just wants to be safe.
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Pleistarchus
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What if they claim there's nothing wrong with my mount.....and blame me for not using Rosin and loctite?
Or do you mean send it back to get refunded?
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Pleistarchus
Guest
Notes on mounting
The rings are machined with circular groves that could be used
for gluing the scope. Gluing is a good solution when the gun
and the scope is used extensively in 4WD vehicles and in other
applications with severe vibrations.
For normal use (including
mostly military, law enforcement and civilian use) we strongly
recommend the use of small amount of rosin between the
scope and the rings (available from Midway). Rosin is a very
good gripping agent that prevents slipping. Its also very easy to
remove with some alcohol when it’s not desired any more.
Ring screws are delivered waxed. Customers working in extreme conditions might want to degrease the screws and screw
holes to loctite instead.
They don't insist but they "Strongly recommend" which can be misconceiving
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That is a funny manual. Never heard of scopes falling off the rifles, which are being tansported in 4 WD. But may be this stuff does happen, anybody has any real life experience?
Nice mounts, I'm pretty sure very well made. I do see a tiny bit of potential issue here - rings are pretty beefy, means rigid, which is good for durability and strength. On the other hand, such rings are not likely to deform easily to "wrap" desirable number of degrees around the scope tube. That is because that tube O.D. has tolerances, rings have tolerances, and with rings potentially having limited flexibility, contact area may be somewhat limited, depending upon tolerances, in order to distribute pressure "gently and evenly" onto large enough surface of the scope tube. Considering limit on how much clamping force, or its relative measure - torque can be applied to the cap screws, I can imagine that recommedation for an additional friction component, rosin, has as its purpose to ensure suffiicent holding/gripping capability w/o need to clamp (torque) more and get into the trouble with the scope. Just a thought.
Nice mounts, I'm pretty sure very well made. I do see a tiny bit of potential issue here - rings are pretty beefy, means rigid, which is good for durability and strength. On the other hand, such rings are not likely to deform easily to "wrap" desirable number of degrees around the scope tube. That is because that tube O.D. has tolerances, rings have tolerances, and with rings potentially having limited flexibility, contact area may be somewhat limited, depending upon tolerances, in order to distribute pressure "gently and evenly" onto large enough surface of the scope tube. Considering limit on how much clamping force, or its relative measure - torque can be applied to the cap screws, I can imagine that recommedation for an additional friction component, rosin, has as its purpose to ensure suffiicent holding/gripping capability w/o need to clamp (torque) more and get into the trouble with the scope. Just a thought.
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If it were me I'd send it back for an exchange, because I have others that I know work.
For you I think the best route is to return it for a refund. It's obvious and somewhat understandable that you will never be 100% comfortable and have confidence in one of these mounts.
Rosin is suggested on heavy recoiling rifles. You say you saw movement immediately after mounting, not after shooting. That is not right, period.
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Pleistarchus
Guest
When I said immediately after mounting I meant I had just mounted that morning, then went to zero in at the range. After my 3rd shot which hit center, my fourth shot was off the paper which immediately raised concerns, I fired a fifth, again completely off paper so my reaction then was to look at my gear with scope/ mount being first. Clearly noticed my scope was not where I placed it. Closely looked at my reticle and was canted though very minimal it was canted. Checked my in/lbs and they were right on 18 in/lbs. Though it is not the max torque recommended it was recommended by a very reputable SH vendor whom I mentioned that I was using an MRAD with a SB PMII. Whatever as you said it did leave me uncomfortable with this mount. I am not the type to return things and if I use the mount again it will be with the strongly recommended use of Rosin and Loctite on the screws and a maximum torque of 21 in/lbs. I'm sure with that in mind I should feel secure that my scope will not shift in the mount, even in a 4X4 driving off road, shooting out the window while being attacked by enemy fire and getting hit by an occasional IED.....LOL.
I don't think the Spuhr mounts normally HAVE to use rosin or loctite (based soley on others' experiences here). I think the OP and myself just drew the bad ones in the batch.
As for returning mine, I'm not going to go that route. While I'm sure Randy and company at Mile High would take care of me, I don't think it is their fault at all and shouldn't be their headache. Also I have it working now so it is no longer defective. I also doubt I'll get my scope recoated as it functions fine with the scraped areas, I don't think Spuhr would spring for it, and I don't think I could be away from my scope for that long, haha.
I don't understand what the issue is, if they say use rosin and loctite... Then use rosin and loctite, don't buy a product not follow the directions and then blame the product.
"That's like saying fuck motor oil!!! they didn't make my motor to run with out oil!?!.... Bullshit" even though they recommend it... Thanks a lot toyota.... fuckin morons
"That's like saying fuck motor oil!!! they didn't make my motor to run with out oil!?!.... Bullshit" even though they recommend it... Thanks a lot toyota.... fuckin morons
The problem Mendy is people are spending alot of money for these mounts and then to have to use something to make sure it doesn't slip when much cheaper mounts and rings don't need the assistance of rosin or loctite and hold scopes just fine. Why does a product that is supposed to be the top of the line and cost 2-3 times what others cost need assistance holding a scope? Shouldn't it be machined to such perfection that it doesn't? I understand variations in tubes but again others don't have an issue with this. I think Kortik might have hit on something in that these are so beefy and rigid it is a negative in that they won't, for lack of a better term, flex to grab a scope with what might be a slightly off tolerance tube. Might be good in a perfect world but we don't live in a perfect world. That goes for Spuhr as well. Maybe these were units that were not in spec. They should probably be checked.
Ill agree with that.... I've ran Badger, larue, seeking and now I run Spuhr on my AI, I was a little shocked to see the thing about the resin but I feel like the Spuhr mount was purposed designed to use resin and lower the torque hence the little grooves in the rings. Maybe they built it with the intentions to change the way we think of mounting scopes, I'm not an engineer I don't know but I do know that when mounted the way they recommend you'd be hard pressed to get any movement. Fell right on my AW out predator hunting last month, hit hard right on the left side of a brand new Kahles 624i pleasantly surprised to see no movement at all.
Don't quite know how agreeing with some ones opinion is the same as tucking their tail between their legs but okay
Sorry to hear about the issue. I've owned 4 Spuhr mounts and currently still own 1 on my .338 LM. I've never used rosin, and always use blue loctite on ring screws. Never had an issue with a mark on the scope or any slipping - I bought early on when they were first available and I don't recall seeing any instructions so take that for what its worth. I'd follow the manufacturers recommendations for piece of mind.
My S&B 5-25 is mounted on a LMT .308 with a Spuhr. 220+ rounds so far and no slippage.
My scope has the RAL 8000 ceramic coating. When I snugged my scope than wanted to adjust the reticle the scope was locked in even with the mount caps removed. I attributed it to the extra diameter of the tube caused by the RAL 8000 stuff.
I was happy that there were no marks on the scope coating. Spuhr works for me.
My scope has the RAL 8000 ceramic coating. When I snugged my scope than wanted to adjust the reticle the scope was locked in even with the mount caps removed. I attributed it to the extra diameter of the tube caused by the RAL 8000 stuff.
I was happy that there were no marks on the scope coating. Spuhr works for me.
I still think that "Pleistarchus" needs to be checked, not only due to his way of conduct but also to his ability to mount a scope, there is something that is not right about this thread, info and bits sifting in. I have so far not seen one bit of info suggesting or proving that there is any thing wrong with the mounts, besides what has been claimed, perhaps if Pleistarchus could/would like to take some measurements and pictures.
I thought that this site was supposed to not allow that kind of thing/behavior, and further more Pleistarchus has stated that he has been in contact with Håkan about the mount, suggesting that is has become clear between the both of them that there is nothing wrong with the mounts. Even further more, there are suggestions above that there has been mounts sent out that were/are out of spec and with poor QC, but there is as far as I can read/see no grounds for claims of that sort, making them to be just pure malice and bad intent.
Perhaps it´s just one of those things, if repeated enough it will become true, well as the moderators now do seem to have an interest in ensuring that this thread continues and the negative unsubstantiated remarks as well, can ask Håkan to join in and settle things?
I do believe that I stated it clear above, no rosin is needed, no loctite either, ( several others concurred) however the manual and mounts allows for the use of both and for rifles/mounts that are to be run hard, it is even suggested. How can that be a "flaw" if it is part of the design/manual. /Chris
Good idea. Maybe use a self tapping screw and bury it into the scope tube. I'd use a gasket from a roofing nail to prevent any nitrogen loss.
Note/disclaimer - Im being a dumb ass.
Pliestarcus, I'd just send it back man. At this point, what do you really have to lose? You're not going to use the mount, so might as well take a shot at getting your money back. The worst they can do is tell you no, point you to the instruction manual, make fun of you for not using it, then login to snipershide, find this thread, and chide you publicly for not using loctite and rosin!! (ha-ha) Or maybe they'll at least exchange it for a new one, and you can sell it here and recoup most of the money. Can't remember if you said this or not, but was this the first time the scope was used too? I can't imagine there would be something out of spec with a S&B, but I guess anything is possible. I know you prefer not to send things back, but you've got the best of the best in equipment you're working with there, yet you're dealing with the same things that guys like me with leupold rings on a vortex scope are subjected to on occasion. (it should be noted that I've had no issues with my leupold rings on vortex scope, and no rosin or loctite!)
Btw, that's a bad-ass rifle in your picture!
Btw, that's a bad-ass rifle in your picture!
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Pleistarchus
Guest
Thank you Brother! BTW I went to American Rifle Companies site last night and noticed they redesigned the M10 QD mount which now has a LEVEL.....unless they always had one and just never saw it!!!!!! Now that looks like my new mount
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They look pretty nice. I'll have to check them out. Looks like ARC recommends a 50 in lbs torque on scope screws per the website, and finger tight on the rail clamp screws. That seems backwards, but I'm no engineer.
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Pleistarchus
Guest
I am no engineer either but this is what was quoted by Ted from ARC when I asked him roughly the same question.
"Bigger screws require more torque to impart the same tensile load that two or more smaller screws would otherwise apply when torqued to a lower value. 50 in-lbs applied to a single 5mm screws will exert about the same force as two 4mm screws torqued to about 20 in-lbs."
I've got one Spuhr mount. I've used it on my GAP10 and on my M2008 action. Granted both calibers are .260Rem. and 6 Creedmoor and not heavy recoiling calibers like a .338 Lapua but I didn't use any loctite or rosin. I just made sure it was clean and dry where the rings would clamp on to the scope body and tightened the screws be feel. I didn't use any special torque wrench etc...again just by feel. I've had no issues with scope movement. The scope that is mounted is a USO 3-17x.
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
What type of behavior? Discussing possible problems with gear? That is encouraged. I wish Hakan would come in and get in the discussion. I think I mentioned that earlier in the posts.
It's not a flaw but just my question that hasn't been answered as to why it's even suggested when mounts and rings that cost alot less don't need or suggest using it? You seem to be speaking alot for these mounts so why don't you get ahold of Hakan and have him come in and answer some questions. As for bad intent or malice in suggesting there might be a problem or the mounts need to get checked there isn't any. It's an option if these people have problems with scopes moving. Sorry but no one is perfect. These are made by man and can have problems. It happens with the best gear. Guess you don't think Spuhr makes mistakes. Must be nice to be perfect.
Also I don't have anything invested in continuing this discussion other than my own curiosity and interest in this sport and it's products and don't insinuate that I do. I already said I don't use the mounts and don't ever plan on using them but I had a question which no one can seem to answer. I guess people spending $400 bucks should just take it on faith. Glad I am not one of those people. Everyone good luck with those mounts. I am out.
Rob01- You cannot be unaware of the harsh language used and the attitude shown by members here. To disregard those as you do above is below a moderator to do. Just say that it´s ok to adress other members like or something similar.
Further more, you rather fault a mount you never had in hand, then question the OP and his methods of mounting it? You have more faith in the OP and his statements, including his judgement rather than any other explanation.
I am not OK with that, I have to accept it because you are what you are in here, but it does not sit well with me. /Chris
Further more, you rather fault a mount you never had in hand, then question the OP and his methods of mounting it? You have more faith in the OP and his statements, including his judgement rather than any other explanation.
I am not OK with that, I have to accept it because you are what you are in here, but it does not sit well with me. /Chris
The language used was boarder line for sure I will give you that but the way you came in it was a reaction response and stopped as the conversation went on. If it would have continued it would have been taken care of. I have been on this site and moderating long enough to know how posts are forming so no need to try and critique my moderating.
When did I say I never had one in my hand? I said I don't own one or plan on it but never said I haven't inspected and handled them. More than the OP were speaking of slipping so that's why I was wondering and when the directions came up with loctite and rosin it seemed odd to me as I have been doing this a little over 20 years and never had to use either with any mount or ring I have used. Just seemed odd to me and the only explanation given was that is what they use in Europe. I was looking for more. Could it have been the OP and the others not installing properly? Sure but I still wonder about why the rosin or loctite. I was hoping Hakan would chime in.
Sorry asking questions when you see more than one person with a problem is not ok with you but I see nothing wrong with it. I have never been rude in this post so it has nothing to do with me being a moderator. I would ask the question if I wasn't but does that mean you would be rude to me if I wasn't a mod and asking the question? Feel free to speak up as i am a big boy but also expect to get the same in return if you want to be anything but courteous as I have been in this thread.
It's obvious I will never get an answer so again good luck with your mounts.
When did I say I never had one in my hand? I said I don't own one or plan on it but never said I haven't inspected and handled them. More than the OP were speaking of slipping so that's why I was wondering and when the directions came up with loctite and rosin it seemed odd to me as I have been doing this a little over 20 years and never had to use either with any mount or ring I have used. Just seemed odd to me and the only explanation given was that is what they use in Europe. I was looking for more. Could it have been the OP and the others not installing properly? Sure but I still wonder about why the rosin or loctite. I was hoping Hakan would chime in.
Sorry asking questions when you see more than one person with a problem is not ok with you but I see nothing wrong with it. I have never been rude in this post so it has nothing to do with me being a moderator. I would ask the question if I wasn't but does that mean you would be rude to me if I wasn't a mod and asking the question? Feel free to speak up as i am a big boy but also expect to get the same in return if you want to be anything but courteous as I have been in this thread.
It's obvious I will never get an answer so again good luck with your mounts.
Good grief, what happened to this thread?! Anyway, I didn't have any slippage or movement with my mount last Friday. I have not used Loctite or Rosin on it either. Shooting a suppressed 6.5CM. FWIW, YMMV etc.
I've seen Spuhr's ads on this board, perhaps they were on of the dealers that is selling Spuhr's products, in any case these type of products support this board, as with other products that run ads on this board, I don't believe we should have a negative string about them. just saying.....
So with that logic we can't give any negative feedback about pretty much any product we use as many sponsor the board and also are sold by many sponsors. So sorry but I don't agree at all. There has been negative threads about pretty much every product you can think of and also forum sponsors. Why is Spuhr some sort of sacred cow that no one can question or speak ill of?
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Pleistarchus
Guest
Chris, if I offended you, I am sorry. You are right, I am wrong. I was wrong from the beginning. Spuhr is a great product and if anyone has issues with this product they should question themselves before questioning the product. You are right. You were always right. I hope you can forgive me and anyone questioning this product. I hope this resolves your issues.
Mr. Chris, you came into this thread guns blazing at the OP, myself, and Bluto. I haven't responded to your insinuations that I can't mount a scope properly and don't know what I'm doing. I haven't met up with many people on here so I can't have them vouch for me. All I can ask is for you to take me at my word that I followed the torquing spec with a proven tool and that I have adequate experience mounting various scopes in various sets of rings. Same with Pleistarchus. I have no idea who that guy is, but until he gives me a reason to question him and his methods/skill, I'm going to give him the benefit of the doubt.
Rob is just helping further the discussion by raising the question of why are the rosin and loctite needed in the first place. He is correct that this is a forum not just for the good but also the bad. These discussions are what (in my opinion) make this site so great. They help educate people about what equipment works and what doesn't. Who to deal with and who to avoid. That's why there have been so many "I have X number of Spuhr mounts with no rosin/loctite and they work great" posts. All those posts combined with Pleistarchus' and my experiences help a new guy get a figure of the level of quality from Spuhr (it should be noted that traditionally people are more likely to be vocal about disapproval to approval so that will skew results and need to be adjusted accordingly). As I've said before, based on this thread I wouldn't write off Spuhr as the vast majority of experiences seem to be positive.
Just because you like the manufacturer does not mean they are infallible and immune from bad things happening. Hell, I always do my best but sometimes I mess up too. I'm human and don't expect anything more from Spuhr.
Well it´s sort of nice to talk with other members rather than at them, and perhaps have then listen,
Rob01- I accept your moderation of the thread, I still have serious issues with the fact that you just disregarded ( actually totally ignored) my comments about the foul language and just kept on guessing what could be wrong with the mounts and rehashing there cost and how you will never own a pair, still you have a lot of first hand experience with them.
Early Cuyler- Well I guess it is a question of perspective really, I find it odd that one can fail with these mounts, hence my intro to the thread, I also find it odd that (no) one has not read the manual, I know that these are not the only mounts that use rosin, there are more then a few others that do, I also know that there are a lot of people that add just a pinch rosin mounting scopes for almost every other use than tactical use, I know of BR guys, hunters and foremost for a lot of European style Claw and twist mounts. ( these last ones especially because they are intended to never be removed again)
As to give others the benefit of the doubt, you are most right about that, however that goes all the way around, ie until someone has been able to actually measure and show that the rings/mounts are out of spec, right, right? I can not say that I came in hot, however I did put more than a few on the spot, and called them on there less than complete knowledge/ignorance of the content of the manual, that is for some men hard to handle, hence the foul language.
Still I did sat down late last night with my own set of mounts, these are the the loose mounts not the complete/solid mount, using the Borka Tool I never even came close to required and reasonable clamping force using the suggested applied tourque from the manual,
in my case this is all down to the fact that my bolts do not turn lightly, rather there is a slightly gritty feel to them. I would suggest that this is at least an opening/ venue of a suggesting where things parted, ie intended and required tourque were not meet. Given time and desire to do so I might go back and use a little moly lube or similar and redo the test to see if it has any relevance.
Just this past weekend I lent the mounts and scope a Henny 4-16 to a friend, his scope took a dive, his picatinny rail was/is not bedded and not straight, visibly curved using a straight edge to measure, something we found out after we had mounted up the Henny and tightened the bolts on the mounts,
the scope and the rings are such a stiff/solid unit that it bent the rail back and stressed the action enough to make closing the bolt hard, needles to say, we took it back of again and my friend shot my rifle for the remaining sunday. Why I am adding this, well I did find it interesting and in part it has some bearing to the threads topic.
/Chris
Rob01- I accept your moderation of the thread, I still have serious issues with the fact that you just disregarded ( actually totally ignored) my comments about the foul language and just kept on guessing what could be wrong with the mounts and rehashing there cost and how you will never own a pair, still you have a lot of first hand experience with them.
Early Cuyler- Well I guess it is a question of perspective really, I find it odd that one can fail with these mounts, hence my intro to the thread, I also find it odd that (no) one has not read the manual, I know that these are not the only mounts that use rosin, there are more then a few others that do, I also know that there are a lot of people that add just a pinch rosin mounting scopes for almost every other use than tactical use, I know of BR guys, hunters and foremost for a lot of European style Claw and twist mounts. ( these last ones especially because they are intended to never be removed again)
As to give others the benefit of the doubt, you are most right about that, however that goes all the way around, ie until someone has been able to actually measure and show that the rings/mounts are out of spec, right, right? I can not say that I came in hot, however I did put more than a few on the spot, and called them on there less than complete knowledge/ignorance of the content of the manual, that is for some men hard to handle, hence the foul language.
Still I did sat down late last night with my own set of mounts, these are the the loose mounts not the complete/solid mount, using the Borka Tool I never even came close to required and reasonable clamping force using the suggested applied tourque from the manual,
in my case this is all down to the fact that my bolts do not turn lightly, rather there is a slightly gritty feel to them. I would suggest that this is at least an opening/ venue of a suggesting where things parted, ie intended and required tourque were not meet. Given time and desire to do so I might go back and use a little moly lube or similar and redo the test to see if it has any relevance.
Just this past weekend I lent the mounts and scope a Henny 4-16 to a friend, his scope took a dive, his picatinny rail was/is not bedded and not straight, visibly curved using a straight edge to measure, something we found out after we had mounted up the Henny and tightened the bolts on the mounts,
the scope and the rings are such a stiff/solid unit that it bent the rail back and stressed the action enough to make closing the bolt hard, needles to say, we took it back of again and my friend shot my rifle for the remaining sunday. Why I am adding this, well I did find it interesting and in part it has some bearing to the threads topic.
/Chris
Here you go buddy. I fixed your post for you. The below is an actual contribution to the topic at hand. Everybody understands that you disagree with several things. You have made your points loud and clear. Everyone that offended you has apologized in an effort to keep this thread on track. There's really no need for the additional comments. In my humble opinion, those comments are taking away from the overall value of your posts. The information you provided below is good and adds value to the thread.
Did I? From my post above:
"The language used was boarder line for sure I will give you that but the way you came in it was a reaction response and stopped as the conversation went on. If it would have continued it would have been taken care of. I have been on this site and moderating long enough to know how posts are forming so no need to try and critique my moderating. "
Actually looks like I didn't.
You keep believing what you want about this thread and Spuhr mounts but this site has a history of finding and helping manufacturers fix possible problems with gear. Not saying that there is a problem with them but if we use the old "these are perfect and nothing can ever be wrong with them" mindset then nothing will change. You obviously are the main distributor of Spuhr kool aid though so keep that up. I am really upset though that Hakan hasn't chimed in in this thread. Most other manufacturers who are on this site would have.
You are correct in that I am assuming that my mount and Pleistarchus's mounts are out of spec. I am basing this on the following:
1- I had no issues mounting this same scope in a set of Seekins 34mm Low rings
2- Others using identical scopes, mounts, and methods as myself do not have the same issue of their scopes slipping
Item 1 makes me believe that my S&B 5-25x56 is not out of spec as if it were, then I would imagine the Seekins rings would not have worked either. That is, of course, unless I got some out of spec Seekins rings to go with my out of spec S&B which I consider about as likely as me coming home to Scarlett Johansson and Keira Knightley nekkid in bed with a plate of bacon.
Item 2 makes be believe that if my S&B 5-25x56 is not out of spec and is having issues in a Spuhr mount, and others using in-spec (my assumption) S&B 5-25x56 are not having issues in a Spuhr mount, the only difference would be the mounts.
Also, can you clarify the last bit of your post? Particularly:
- What do you mean loose mount vs. complete/solid mount?
- Do you mean that you torqued them to the suggested amount with the Borka but it did not provide reasonable clamping force?
ETA: I'm still offering to send any of yall a bit of rosin if you'd like. Just PM me your address and I'll get some headed your way
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I've been following this thread with some interest, I've got two Spuhr mounts and yeah I read and re-read the rosin, Loctite 4wd thing in the instructions. Saw the grooves or ridges (depending how you look at it) machined into the mounts and...did nothing
more than de-grease everything, torqued to max +10% and never had a problem (that's just my experience nothing more) one of the mounts is on my 338.
If I had to spend the best part of £350.00 for a mount and to stop my scope slipping it needs loctite or whatever...I'd be sending it back.
Does it say a lot that the manufacturer hasn't yet chimed in? Well maybe by pm I wouldn't know. As for the language, well, I thought we were big boys......if you pipe up and the other guy don't like what you say, then he's going to come back at you....life !
I always thought torque was a measurement of a resistance to turning force and not clamping force, one being generated by the application of the other. Like to hear as Rob has said maybe a word from the manufacturer.
more than de-grease everything, torqued to max +10% and never had a problem (that's just my experience nothing more) one of the mounts is on my 338.
If I had to spend the best part of £350.00 for a mount and to stop my scope slipping it needs loctite or whatever...I'd be sending it back.
Does it say a lot that the manufacturer hasn't yet chimed in? Well maybe by pm I wouldn't know. As for the language, well, I thought we were big boys......if you pipe up and the other guy don't like what you say, then he's going to come back at you....life !
I always thought torque was a measurement of a resistance to turning force and not clamping force, one being generated by the application of the other. Like to hear as Rob has said maybe a word from the manufacturer.
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No sir, I do not mean that at all, but I do see where my post may have lead you to think so. I have seen many a post regarding a negative in regards to either a sponsor, or a "sacred cow" of one kind or another, the general response is to have 20+- posters jump the OP, for being an idiot, or a (*&^%). I could not agree more with most of the posters on this particular subject, rosin should not be necessary for Good rings. I believe every weapons mfg, gunsmith, ammo mfg etc. makes errors, has recalls, gives poor customer service (sometimes really poor) etc., but in many cases this is defended by the board, rather than "jumped on". I have always assumed it was done so to keep a sponsor, as this board is free, and not because we had that many members that supported low quality, or low quality service. I'm very glad, proud in fact, that you and the other moderators don't allow sponsorship, or how much a company spends on this board influence calling them out on poor quality, poor engineering, or poor service! I hope this never changes, thanks for setting the record straight!
I'm sorry that anyone is having a problem with Spuhr Mounts. I am not going to get into the mess this thread has became except to say Mile High Shooting has always had a policy of taking care of our customers period. No If Ands or Butts. If you are having issues
with a Spuhr Mount just call us for a RMA and we will issue a refund or send you a new one. I will tell you that Hakan Spuhr feels
the same way. Just return the mount and I will send it to Hakan for evaluation. I think lapping is not needed with the quality of the
machining. We haven't had a scope slip that we have mounted but that doesn't mean it can't happen.We haven't used Rosen ourselves but I know that it works.I will contact Hakan about this and I'm sure he will comment. But again just contact us and we
will refund or exchange your mount.
Thanks
with a Spuhr Mount just call us for a RMA and we will issue a refund or send you a new one. I will tell you that Hakan Spuhr feels
the same way. Just return the mount and I will send it to Hakan for evaluation. I think lapping is not needed with the quality of the
machining. We haven't had a scope slip that we have mounted but that doesn't mean it can't happen.We haven't used Rosen ourselves but I know that it works.I will contact Hakan about this and I'm sure he will comment. But again just contact us and we
will refund or exchange your mount.
Thanks
This is why I bought my mount from yall. Great customer support! Personally my mount is fully functional after using rosin, but if you and/or Hakan wouod like to evaluate it, I'd be willing to send it in. There's just one catch- it'll have to be mid to late-June as I leave for safari on the first, and will be taking my S&B with the Spuhr.
P
Pleistarchus
Guest
Need to tip my hat to Randy and the staff at Mile High. Since the instructions strongly suggest to use loctite and rosin they are not obliged to accept a return in my case, but they did. They are definitely on my A list and will lean on making my next purchase with them. As for Spuhr, it is a shame that this was my first experience with them because I truly believe, with all the positive feedback from this thread, that mine was an isolated incident. Unfortunately trying them again will have to be down the road when this has somewhat faded from memory.
I'm glad I bought a DTA mount. It doesn't include a set of instructions so any moron can use it properly. Here in America, we don't read instructions. That's just our part of our Credo. Ill be damned if I pay $400 for 3 pieces of metal and 8 screws and need to read a manual to put it together.
Hi
Sorry I have not been looged on to SH for a number of months.
Nope the Spuhr mount does not need lapping.
I am very sorry for any inconveniences and I know you have returned the mount so we will soon examine it.
I know you know have contact with Mile high and I am positive you will get satisfied with their service.
Mile High is great to deal with and only a phonecall away!
Since my gunsmithing days I have always used rosin on all mountings regardless of make as long as it not was for any small caliber gun.
The Rosin have two really great advantages, the first is that the friction is really big and it secures the scope. The second reason is actually to protect the scope.
I have seen ringmarks from mostly ring manufactureres on scopes and the thin layer of rosin does protect the surface.
Metal to metal can produce ringmarks and that is so boring.....
When it comes to the torquing of the caps I belive that you should torque each screw more than once, very similar to what you do on a carwheel.
First criss-cross pattern and then torque each screw more than once.
For those here who wonders what the spuhr mount really is, it's well described here.
http://www.spuhr.com/scopemount features.pdf
I will contact you personally when having examined the mount.
Håkan
Sorry I have not been looged on to SH for a number of months.
Nope the Spuhr mount does not need lapping.
I am very sorry for any inconveniences and I know you have returned the mount so we will soon examine it.
I know you know have contact with Mile high and I am positive you will get satisfied with their service.
Mile High is great to deal with and only a phonecall away!
Since my gunsmithing days I have always used rosin on all mountings regardless of make as long as it not was for any small caliber gun.
The Rosin have two really great advantages, the first is that the friction is really big and it secures the scope. The second reason is actually to protect the scope.
I have seen ringmarks from mostly ring manufactureres on scopes and the thin layer of rosin does protect the surface.
Metal to metal can produce ringmarks and that is so boring.....
When it comes to the torquing of the caps I belive that you should torque each screw more than once, very similar to what you do on a carwheel.
First criss-cross pattern and then torque each screw more than once.
For those here who wonders what the spuhr mount really is, it's well described here.
http://www.spuhr.com/scopemount features.pdf
I will contact you personally when having examined the mount.
Håkan
P
Pleistarchus
Guest
Thank you for chiming in. It is truly unfortunate this thread went the direction it did. It seems at least one other member took it personally and in turn caused defensive reactions by myself and several others. Before purchasing your product I watched your YouTube videos several times along with other videos presenting your product. I never heard anyone say anything bad about your product.....ever. It led me to believe it was the best product for the job and I aimed to buy one. Watching your videos I never noticed you mention loctite or rosin. When I installed the mount I opened the manual but missed to read the grey area. I did criss cross torquing the screws as I do on anything with multiple fasteners and retightened the screws to make sure the proper torque was applied. I was probably as surprised to see slipping as all those on this thread who claim they never had a problem. The good thing is there was no damage to a scope I had never used before. I did speak to Randy and have been communicating with him for the past couple of days and he told me you spoke with him. I want to thank you for your offer. I will try your product again and hope I regain the confidence I had when I first mounted it. Please feel free to contact me with any questions you might have and be assured what you will receive in return is the truth. Tack och ha en bra dag!
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