Educate me on garage floor coatings.

[Jefe's Dope]

I have zero experience. Must do it myself. Want cheap and easy install if at all possible. Would pay more for easy install vs. cheap and difficult install. Not a fan of the confetti type textures but definitely don't want a slip hazard.

*Brand new concrete.


Go...

 

[TheHorta]

GBPSE.

Hire someone.

 

[_Windrider_]

GBPSE.

Hire someone.

What he said. The DIY solutions do not last and when they fail are a pain in the ass to fix. Just pay a pro and be done.

And even if the pro installed ones failed, at least you have someone to hold accountable

 

[91Eunozs]

I tried it myself on our main garage and failed spectacularly despite religiously following all instructions and prep steps. Peeled up the first time I parked a car on it.

Then again, it took three tries by a “pro” to do my shop floor before I finally fired him (peeled up, holes and/or huge ridges in the coverage, etc.) and got another guy to sand it all down and start over. This one’s OK, but still not perfect.

Be prepared for frustration…very few products actually work, and even fewer installers actually know what the hell they’re doing.

 

[MrSmith]

50:50 mix boiled linseed oil and kerosene. Only a sealant, not a protective coating. Cheap plastic pump up sprayer. Spray it on, let it dry. Windows open.

On my shop floor for 5 years, can still wipe oil right up. Recoat when liquids stop beading up.

Thank you,
MrSmith

 

[_Windrider_]

I tried it myself on our main garage and failed spectacularly despite religiously following all instructions and prep steps. Peeled up the first time I parked a car on it.

Then again, it took three tries by a “pro” to do my shop floor before I finally fired him (peeled up, holes and/or huge ridges in the coverage, etc.) and got another guy to sand it all down and start over. This one’s OK, but still not perfect.

Be prepared for frustration…very few products actually work, and even fewer installers actually know what the hell they’re doing.

Absolutely. Like many things prep is the key. You gotta use heavy duty diamond grinders and you must get up all the slurry. And before you even think about putting a coat down it better be bone ass dry

 

[FWoo45]

I did it myself with the confetti bullshit. Old concrete. Fuck ton of prep above what they recommend, granted it was December so everything took longer to dry. It's held up great with my daily amd project on it for 8ish years, looks good for what it is, isn't slippery even on the steps because of the confetti bullshit, and I would suggest calling a pro.

ETA: When I say a fuck ton of prep, I mean I had 10 days off that I didn't do anything but fuck with the garage floor and drink beer. Brought home a hot water pressure washer, industrial dehumidifiers, a bunch of fans and went way beyond the suggested acid etching. I've learned that I can do things myself better than some pros but nowhere near as good as those who are actually good at what they do. Do the research as if you were going to do it yourself, and then use that info to vet the pros.

 

[DarnYankeeUSMC]

I've seen several floors done with products like this and I have considered doing it to mine.

GarageDeck® 24 Pack Garage Flooring Tiles | USA Made | GarageDeck®

GGarageDeck® 24 Pack flooring tile will cover 24 square feet of your garage floor. Quality tiles made in the USA with huge factory warranty

www.bigfloors.com

Owners all said that they were happy with them. I've also have seen several with the coatings and they were all professionally done with a warranty.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Both the BIL and SIL state it was extremely easy. But this is in Florida and the weather is very cooperative.

 

[J McGriddle]

Has anyone used epoxy floor coatings on plywood?

 

[lash]

I've seen several floors done with products like this and I have considered doing it to mine.

GarageDeck® 24 Pack Garage Flooring Tiles | USA Made | GarageDeck®

GGarageDeck® 24 Pack flooring tile will cover 24 square feet of your garage floor. Quality tiles made in the USA with huge factory warranty

www.bigfloors.com

Owners all said that they were happy with them. I've also have seen several with the coatings and they were all professionally done with a warranty.

My neighbor put in a similar heavy duty tile product himself and it works great. He has all kinds of vehicles and is meticulous about cleanliness of his garage. He said it was also cheaper than many of the coatings.

 

[Tiger_Shilone]

Tech Floor or similar lay down garage floor squares. A couple different options with either open air or fully enclosed tiles (I would do fully enclosed so I can find all the small parts that get dropped).

No big involved floor prep and easy enough to repair/replace if needed. Lots of different options for edges. You can take it with you if you move. Still big $ per square foot. Helped a couple car buddies lay out their garages with this back in the 2000’s , fairly easy install, just time consuming. The one guy I see occasionally still likes it.

https://www.weathertech.com/techfloor.html

 

[Hecouldgoalltheway]

I do epoxy and stained concrete floors. If you want to be one and done, get someone to stain and polish it. Runs $7+ sq/f.

If someone prices it for less, they don't know what they are doing, send them away.

 

[jetmd]

I have had great results for 20+ years in my shop.

The only product I use is TNEMEC

Think cement spelled backwards.

Their 2 part epoxy is Awesome!

Make sure you give that new concrete adequate to to cure/gas off, how long I don’t know but it is a consideration.

Also you MUST wear a respirator when applying even with good ventilation, trust me on that.

 

[jetmd]

This is what I use.

 

[Tiger_Shilone]

Also remember about footing/slipperiness of whatever you wind up putting down.

All those aircraft spotless shiny hangar floors you see at private FBO’s are a mixed bag— they are great light reflectivity and clean, easy to spot. But the ones that haven’t had a grit substrate added in the epoxy are a slippery fall nightmare when any liquid gets on them. I have worked on enough of them where I now dread going into a “showcase hangar” wondering what I am going to slip on.

Also, another thing about epoxy, it doesn’t do anything to prevent concrete pad cracking. Neither do the garage floor squares, but they will “float” above the cracks that will eventually come and still look good.

If you are dead set on epoxy, here is another commercial brand used where I work on new bays:

 

[elwarpo]

1) Allow the concrete to cure at least 90 days before coating
2) Neutralize with muriatic acid and rinse well, let dry
3) I recommend an epoxy amine over an epoxy amide coating. The issue is epoxy amines are not available to the public in stores such as home depot/lowes...
4) Read and follow the instructions.

Cheap and easy do not last long.

 

[BScore]

Just get it epoxied, you won’t regret it. If you’re in Nebraska, I can recommend the guys I used. But it won’t be cheap, figure on at least 5 bucks a square foot.

 

[Ichi]

I went with a professionally applied polyaspartic coating on my garage floor. For the reasons below (copied from a google query).

Most epoxy coatings with yellow with age when exposed to UV. Polyaspartic won't yellow. Some companies will use an epoxy for the base coats and then a polyaspartic for the top coat to prevent the yellowing.

You can also have grit added to coatings to provide additional grip to help prevent slipping when the floor is wet.

Durability:

• Polyaspartic:​
  Known for its high strength, flexibility, and resistance to abrasion, chipping, and fading. It's more resistant to UV rays and can withstand heavy use and temperature fluctuations.​
• • Epoxy:
    While durable, epoxy is more prone to chipping, peeling, and fading, especially in areas exposed to UV light or extreme temperatures.
    

Curing Time:

• • Polyaspartic:
    Cures much faster, often within hours, allowing for quicker installation and return to service.
  • Epoxy:
    Curing times can be significantly longer, potentially taking a day or more.
    

Chemical Resistance:

• • Polyaspartic:
    Offers excellent resistance to chemicals and stains, making it suitable for areas where spills and chemical exposure are common.
    
  • Epoxy:
    While chemically resistant, some epoxy formulations may be more susceptible to certain chemicals and acidic compounds.
    

UV Resistance:

• • Polyaspartic: Highly resistant to UV degradation, preventing fading and discoloration.
    
  • Epoxy: Can fade and yellow over time when exposed to sunlight and UV rays.
    

Application Areas:

• • Polyaspartic:
    Ideal for garages, outdoor patios, high-traffic commercial spaces, and areas requiring quick installation and superior durability.
  • Epoxy:
    Suitable for basements, warehouses, and indoor industrial floors where chemical resistance and easy cleaning are priorities.
    

Cost:

• • Polyaspartic: Generally more expensive than epoxy.
  • Epoxy: A more budget-friendly option.
    

In summary:

Feature	Polyaspartic	Epoxy
Durability	Higher	Lower
Flexibility	Higher	Lower
UV Resistance	Excellent	Lower
Curing Time	Faster	Slower
Chemical Resistance	Higher	Lower
Cost	Higher	Lower
Ideal Applications	Garages, outdoor patios, high-traffic areas	Basements, warehouses, indoor industrial floors

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

as stated above, the poly is better coating imo. prep sucks

Welcome to Garage Force of Birmingham | Concrete Coating Solutions

Garage Force offers the finest concrete coating solutions for your Birmingham Area garage and other flooring. Our systems are 20 times stronger than epoxy! Call today and receive your free estimate!

birmingham.garageforce.com

these guys use it and it has held up well for my peeps

 

[_Windrider_]

I went with a professionally applied polyaspartic coating on my garage floor. For the reasons below (copied from a google query).

Most epoxy coatings with yellow with age when exposed to UV. Polyaspartic won't yellow. Some companies will use an epoxy for the base coats and then a polyaspartic for the top coat to prevent the yellowing.

You can also have grit added to coatings to provide additional grip to help prevent slipping when the floor is wet.

Durability:

• Polyaspartic:​
  Known for its high strength, flexibility, and resistance to abrasion, chipping, and fading. It's more resistant to UV rays and can withstand heavy use and temperature fluctuations.​
• • Epoxy:
    While durable, epoxy is more prone to chipping, peeling, and fading, especially in areas exposed to UV light or extreme temperatures.

Curing Time:

• • Polyaspartic:
    Cures much faster, often within hours, allowing for quicker installation and return to service.
  • Epoxy:
    Curing times can be significantly longer, potentially taking a day or more.

Chemical Resistance:

• • Polyaspartic:
    Offers excellent resistance to chemicals and stains, making it suitable for areas where spills and chemical exposure are common.
  • Epoxy:
    While chemically resistant, some epoxy formulations may be more susceptible to certain chemicals and acidic compounds.

UV Resistance:

• • Polyaspartic: Highly resistant to UV degradation, preventing fading and discoloration.
  • Epoxy: Can fade and yellow over time when exposed to sunlight and UV rays.

Application Areas:

• • Polyaspartic:
    Ideal for garages, outdoor patios, high-traffic commercial spaces, and areas requiring quick installation and superior durability.
  • Epoxy:
    Suitable for basements, warehouses, and indoor industrial floors where chemical resistance and easy cleaning are priorities.

Cost:

• • Polyaspartic: Generally more expensive than epoxy.
  • Epoxy: A more budget-friendly option.

In summary:

Feature	Polyaspartic	Epoxy
Durability	Higher	Lower
Flexibility	Higher	Lower
UV Resistance	Excellent	Lower
Curing Time	Faster	Slower
Chemical Resistance	Higher	Lower
Cost	Higher	Lower
Ideal Applications	Garages, outdoor patios, high-traffic areas	Basements, warehouses, indoor industrial floors

View attachment 8657714

I have this exact poly in one of my rentals

 

[Ruff 364]

Hired it out.

Skipped the chips BS. Wanted to be able to find small parts instantly when dropped on floor. Best decision I made.

 

[ironpony52]

Has anyone used epoxy floor coatings on plywood?

there are some really good rubberized products out there depending on what you are doing. This is a pool I built a few years back.

Dura Rubber

 

[SilentStalkr]

Polyaspartic, hire a pro. Thank me later. Alternatively, I know people that have just placed those interlocking tiles on top of their concrete and have had good luck! Looks good. I need to do mine but I keep having cracks now showing up all over my slab!!!

 

[J McGriddle]

there are some really good rubberized products out there depending on what you are doing. This is a pool I built a few years back.

Dura Rubber

That's a cool setup.

I want to coat the floor of a portable building that's been turned into a reloading room. Ideally, the finish would be smooth without cracks and crevices for powder and decapped primers to hide in.

 

[Bullfrog08]

Garagejournal.com forum has tons of info on floor coatings, go there, not a gun forum.

Its been a long time since I Iooked at floor coatings, but there is a two part product everyone did DIY with awesome results.

 

[c1steve]

Has anyone used epoxy floor coatings on plywood?

Yes I have. Used Devoe/Ameron 235 epoxy. Worked great and soaked into the plywood very well. Takes 3-4 days for the smell to go away.

 

[LuckyLuke80]

I have zero experience. Must do it myself. Want cheap and easy install if at all possible. Would pay more for easy install vs. cheap and difficult install. Not a fan of the confetti type textures but definitely don't want a slip hazard.

*Brand new concrete.


Go...

A couple things-since it’s brand new concrete I’d give it time to cure out. 14 days minimum, preferably more. Also, make sure your contractor didn’t seal it with cure-n-seal or anything like that. If so you will have to get that removed so your new coating doesn’t peel off. Another option would be acid stain and then a good sealer with anti slip powder in it/on it. Or if slippage isn’t a worry then just the sealer. That’s just my experience with finishing concrete-we’ll leave out my bench press and bow kills though.