First Precision Rifle suggestion, from these five?

[river251]

Boy, you guys are really making me rethink my initial decision to get a stock rifle and leave it stock. I kinda shudder at the prospect of working my way through all the custom part makers, but probably I'm safe just to go with recommendaions in this thread.

May I ask, when you buy all the parts for a custom build, it has to get sent to you, meaning, an FLE (FLR?). Do all of the parts have to go through the FLE? That could add another $30 per part, so maybe another $150.

 

[river251]

Is it pretty easy to assemble these cutom builds?

Since rebarrelling seems to be part of PRS, is it easy to change the barrels? Do you need to let a smith do it so they can blueprint it (which I understand to mean making the alignment of barrel and action true)?

 

[Steel head]

Is it pretty easy to assemble these cutom builds?

Since rebarrelling seems to be part of PRS, is it easy to change the barrels? Do you need to let a smith do it so they can blueprint it (which I understand to mean making the alignment of barrel and action true)?

Generally the only hitch can be the trigger.
If you buy an action from Zermatt you can send them the trigger to ensure it’s GTG.
Installing barrels is easy with a Barrel vice, headspace gauge and action wrench.

My build with another custom action had no issues whatsoever, that rifle is awesome!

 

[Bolty]

Boy, you guys are really making me rethink my initial decision to get a stock rifle and leave it stock. I kinda shudder at the prospect of working my way through all the custom part makers, but probably I'm safe just to go with recommendaions in this thread.

May I ask, when you buy all the parts for a custom build, it has to get sent to you, meaning, an FLE (FLR?). Do all of the parts have to go through the FLE? That could add another $30 per part, so maybe another $150.

Only thing that needs to go to the FLL is the action. You can buy every other part on ebay for a gun if you wanted to. Here in Las Vegas its 30 dollars for FLL transfer.

Is it pretty easy to assemble these cutom builds?

Since rebarrelling seems to be part of PRS, is it easy to change the barrels? Do you need to let a smith do it so they can blueprint it (which I understand to mean making the alignment of barrel and action true)?

Yes, very easy, mostly screws and getting a small torgue wrench for INCH pounds. If you get a Remage barrel you will need a torgue wrench for foot pounds, if you get a shouldered barrel you just need to torgue it down to what is needed. . The remage barrels will need head space and timing set. 12 minute video on what it is


Remage style barrel instal video

 

[TxWelder35]

Is it pretty easy to assemble these cutom builds?

Since rebarrelling seems to be part of PRS, is it easy to change the barrels? Do you need to let a smith do it so they can blueprint it (which I understand to mean making the alignment of barrel and action true)?

Custom actions do not need to be blueprinted. That’s why you pay for a custom action. Origin will take small shank savage prefits. Screw barrel into the action, use go/no go gauges to set head space, tighten barrel nut. Barrel installed.

 

[Ridenemwild]

Ok I know its been said a couple of times already but I would think the Bergara HMR rifle to be the answer hands down. Its a Remington 700 footprint, the HMR stock has an aluminum internal chassis (just like the krg bravo) plus flush mount sling swivels already installed, uses Rem 700 triggers, is below budget and have good to great accuracy out of the box. Yes a smith has to rebarrel it but for just starting you wont be worried about that for a long time. I think alot of guys forget what its like being a new shooter and swamped at work. It will probably take a couple of years to put 2k+ rounds through the barrel and even then it will probably still group ok just be alittle slower. Go buy the rifle and shoot the heck out of it. Once you get ready to rebarrel it you will know alot more about what you want and need and go from there.

 

[Chickentoast]

Stretch your budget a little bit and it opens up to a lot nicer rifle

Origin action $850
Prefit barrel $450
KRG Bravo $350
Trigger tech $150

total $1800

I would agree, but everything starts getting more expensive, a little bit at a time - longer barrel, stainless, maybe some flutes, threading, brake, custom reamer, comparing smiths for chambering, why not a diamond instead of a special, and I really like that Manners with the mini chassis instead of the krg... 3K.

Could also just troll the classifieds and grab the 3K build for 2K or better sooner or later. I still like the idea of the 450 dollar Tikka to get started though.

 

[B_w.]

I wouldnt buy a custom action or rifle for my first precision rig. By a good quality factory rifle and learn how it works. As your first precision rifle the last thing you want to be doing is fuc"ing around trying to make sure it all works reliably. No way you are getting a smith to build you something in the Tikka and chassis price range. Play around with it and you will learn what you like and do not. The upgrade path on Tikka is easy with more and more aftermarket support coming online. $10 trigger spring, a few minutes of your time and it will never need to be changed. It is very good and can be adjusted very light. Installing a chassis is torquing two screws. No need to swap a Tikka barrel until you burn it out if you want to shoot PRS. Tikka's QC is so good it will be a guaranteed shooter and load development will be easy. Every Tikka in 6.5 I have seen shoots lights out around 41.5 g of H4350 with 147g ELDM's. Only complaint ever with Tikka is they shoot slow but who cares if it is dead nuts accurate. If and when you want to get something else there will also be good resale on it. Dont waste your time with anything else.

 

[river251]

Generally the only hitch can be the trigger.
If you buy an action from Zermatt you can send them the trigger to ensure it’s GTG.
Installing barrels is easy with a Barrel vice, headspace gauge and action wrench.

My build with another custom action had no issues whatsoever, that rifle is awesome!

Thanks. You didn’t have to get the barrow/action blueprinted?

 

[river251]

I wouldnt buy a custom action or rifle for my first precision rig. By a good quality factory rifle and learn how it works. As your first precision rifle the last thing you want to be doing is fuc"ing around trying to make sure it all works reliably. No way you are getting a smith to build you something in the Tikka and chassis price range. Play around with it and you will learn what you like and do not. The upgrade path on Tikka is easy with more and more aftermarket support coming online. $10 trigger spring, a few minutes of your time and it will never need to be changed. It is very good and can be adjusted very light. Installing a chassis is torquing two screws. No need to swap a Tikka barrel until you burn it out if you want to shoot PRS. Tikka's QC is so good it will be a guaranteed shooter and load development will be easy. Every Tikka in 6.5 I have seen shoots lights out around 41.5 g of H4350 with 147g ELDM's. Only complaint ever with Tikka is they shoot slow but who cares if it is dead nuts accurate. If and when you want to get something else there will also be good resale on it. Dont waste your time with anything else.

You make really good points. I never anticipated this would be a difficult decision but there are clear points in favor of keeping it simple and getting a tikka, and there are also clear arguments in favor of going ahead now and making the plunge. I can’t do it immediately either way, so I have time to get more help with thinking this through. On the plus side of building a rifle, I can buy a piece at a time, so the total will be more, I can spread the pain out. I am sure I will have more questions and I appreciate your help.

 

[Chickentoast]

^I did that building a skateboard in 6th grade with paper route and lawnmowing money - while all my friends were riding, I wasn't, and when I finally finished my board, I realized I wasn't a good enough rider to know the difference. A lot of it is just preference, which isn't even known until lots of trigger time. I still can't decide whether I prefer a chassis or a stock, and I've been shooting an MDT with a PRS2 stock vs both HS Precision and McMillan A3 for the last 2 yrs. Also doesn't matter, once you're past the learning curve on whichever you have, groups should be the same. Go cheap until you know. I would put a stock Tikka against my expensive custom (in same cartridge) any day. Regardless of winner, @ 500 yards, I bet the difference would be about ~1in. Get shooting!

 

[Kraut]

I probably missed it, but do you really need a brand new rifle? A used Tikka CTR with a used MPA chassis you can have for less than 1500 and you are ready for about anything.

 

[river251]

I probably missed it, but do you really need a brand new rifle? A used Tikka CTR with a used MPA chassis you can have for less than 1500 and you are ready for about anything.

Never thought of it. The only place I know of where used guns can be advertised is Armslist. Frankly I don't feel like I know enough to judge if a gun is in good shape or not. Buying one on Armslist would be pretty iffy since you can't even look at it. Do you have suggestions about where I could find a used one except at a gun show? I'm in a small town but Tucson and Phoenix are not far away and they have very big gun shows.

 

[Ridenemwild]

The equipment exchange here would be a great place to start

 

[river251]

Yeah I reckon it would. Given that folks here all have the same interests as me. I'm going to hop over there now.

 

[MakeSawdust]

Tikka CTR plus chassis or go to a custom build is my opinion. There are a lot of options to build a custom for cheap and more coming.

Zermatt Origin
Mack Bros SS Evo
More if you move the budget a little.
Krg Bravo or Oryx chassis
Criterion Remage or Savage prefit
Choose trigger

The action will never be questioned (same with Tikka).
Tons of trigger options.
Barrel will be better.
KRG Bravo is upgradeable.
Tons of Prefit options at every price point and quality level.
Option to build a 223 trainer in the future with interchangeable bolt heads.

Several years ago there where far less options out there. I built a Savage and competed with it for two years. I got the bug bad and put together a used TL3, a krg bravo, and a TT Diamond. I now have several Savage prefits in various calibers from Criterion as well as a few shouldered prefits.

If you get the bug, you will spend money on things you thought you would never buy. A custom action with custome parts will hold its value. An upgraded factory action gun will take somewhat of a hit if you sell it in the PX and upgrade. That is why a lot of guys are suggesting you can get good deals in the PX.

A better idea is to watch the PX and buy used. Then you can get all of your money back if you decide you don't like it (for the most part).

 

[Progun1911]

I bought the Mountain Tactical trigger spring for my 20" stainless CTR. But I didn't need it, the stock trigger adjusted down to 1.5 pounds which is plenty light for me. And just to brag a little I bought my Tikka, 6.5 Creedmoor ,20" Stainless,$716.00 before tax about a month or so ago. That was a sale !!!

brand new for

 

[river251]

Nice progun. Where did you get such a deal?

I thought with the 6.5 Creedmoor, barrel length was important, with improvement out to 24 inches. Why did you go for the 20" instead of the 24" ?

Thanks, beautiful rifle.

 

[Progun1911]

I hate to say, and have not bought one thing except this from Gander Outdoors. 20" over 24" because $716.00 . LOL !

 

[Qwkcrss]

Tikka 24" stainless ctr in a bravo with minamilist spigot. Very nice ergos

 

[patriotnation]

Tikka CTR and put that in a Bravo go from there you won’t regret it

 

[Painjob38]

Tikka or Hmr

 

[Steel head]

There’s a good points about starting with a cheaper option and then learning what your preferences are after you have some experience.

I guess that’s the route I went.
Started with a savage and ran a few barrels through it before I built up a custom and can say I’m totally content with the custom because I had a good idea of what I wanted.
I’d still say a Remington 700 or tikka to start as then you have resale and options.

 

[river251]

Tikka 24" stainless ctr in a bravo with minamilist spigot. Very nice ergos View attachment 7296994

That is gorgeous. What is minimalist spigot?

 

[Bolty]

That is gorgeous. What is minimalist spigot?

Its the piece that goes into the stock at the front of his rifle. The piece the bipod is attached to

Spigot Mount Minimalist – Kinetic Research Group

kineticresearchgroup.com

 

[steve123]

Nice progun. Where did you get such a deal?

I thought with the 6.5 Creedmoor, barrel length was important, with improvement out to 24 inches. Why did you go for the 20" instead of the 24" ?

Thanks, beautiful rifle.

There's the coueswhitetail.com forum classifieds here in AZ. A friend of mine traded a cheap AR and $200 for a CTR in 260R that he found there. Then bought Bravo chassis for $350 later on that he found there.
Put a Area 419 brake on it which is amazingly efficient, that he got there for $100.

I bought a used custom M700 here in the SH classifieds 10 years ago that I eventually won matches with. Then sold it for $100 less than what I paid for it 7 years later.

Last year I bought a sub $400 savage prefit barrel that has been my most accurate barrel yet. It's easy to install one, if you can screw a lightbulb into a socket then you can do this. Nothing more than using a go and a no gauge to set headspace, then tighten barrel nut.

Install trigger in M700 pattern like that Origin is two pins - easy.

Install barreled action into stock with two screws - easy.

Mount scope, sight in rifle.

Bang steel way out there.

For PRS style shooting a heavier rifle stays in the bags better so that means heavy contour barrels help with that, and recoil control too.

Just come here and read when you can and you'll pick up most of the nuances of all this kind of stuff.

 

[308pirate]

howa

I enjoy beating people with mine.

My shooting partner has a Tikka TAC A1 and he's blown away by the accuracy of my 1500 in a KRG 180 XRay chassis.

 

[stello1001]

I enjoy beating people with mine.

My shooting partner has a Tikka TAC A1 and he's blown away by the accuracy of my 1500 in a KRG 180 XRay chassis.

Lmfao, people say the Tikka is a more refined rifle. While it may seem that way, the howa is just as accurate and offers a great shooting platform for its price point, you get a lot from it and keeps up with customs.

That's a 3 shot group I did yesterday just to see if my accuracy was still there. I had a carbon ring but cleaned it out. Normally I do 5 shot groups but I just needed to confirm it was shooting good. That's half MOA at 400 yards...

 

[sideshowbob]

I would go with the Tikka or the Ruger. With Tikka having the slight edge.

 

[Deano2246]

I love my Tikka tac A1 6.5, .25 moa, awesome trigger, super smooth action, hard to beat for the money

 

[NewsShooter]

There is no such thing as super accurate stock rifle, the chassis alone allows flex, hits the barrel ect. There all nice rifles but from your underlined statement in your first post and this last one, you wont get that out of a stock rifle.

There is no super accurate rifle from the factory, if there was one then there would be no aftermarket for rifles. The UPR is crap compared to the Bravo chassis, so if you want an accurate rifle for 1500 then here is what I am building. The barrels dont take long to put on either so there isnt any tinkering around. Plus even a stock rifle wont be perfect from the factory and will need adjusting, plus your action and barrel wont be TRUED from the factory.

Or maybe there is..... My tikka shoots really well, and my Savage LRP in 6.5CM that I started with was as accurate as any of my customs. Even with 2K rounds down the barrel would still shoot one hole at 100 with factory or reloads. Didn't feed as nice as my impact or have as good of a trigger but it is as accurate as either of my custom rifles.

Buy a TIkka and 1000 rounds of ammo, by then you will have learned enough to have an idea of what you're doing.

 

[fdkay]

I'm wanting to buy a first PRS or F-Class rifle, that I can shoot stock without a lot of mods. I want to get my feet wet, not worried about winning for now.

I don't want an aluminum chassis right now. Sako, Christensen Arms, MasterPiece Arms, or Randy's Custom Rifles are out of my budget.

I want to stay under $1500. I want to shoot it stock, not get into expensive or time-consuming mods, for now. I'm sure that all of these are more accurate than I will be starting out, but I want something I can grow into for a few years, and get better with, and I want the most potential possible for accuracy when I'm experienced, from my first rifle, so I won't feel the need to replace it quickly.

Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 24" stainless
Ruger American Predator 6.5 Creedmoor 22" AI Pattern Magazine
Savage 110 Tactical 6.5 Creedmoor 24" 10 Round
Remington 700 Magpul 6.5 Creedmoor
CZ 527 American Synthetic Suppressor 6.5 Grendel

Any opinions welcome.

Thank you.

Jim

Ruger precision rifle in either 6 or 6.5 creedmoor.
Accurate, adjustable, upgradable, resonably priced and comes with two 10 round magazines.
I'm not a Kruger fanboy by any means, but they really hit it out of the park with the RPR.
Barrels can be changed by the user. Several excellent companies offer replacement barrels.

 

[b6graham]

Ruger precision rifle in either 6 or 6.5 creedmoor.
Accurate, adjustable, upgradable, resonably priced and comes with two 10 round magazines.
I'm not a Kruger fanboy by any means, but they really hit it out of the park with the RPR.
Barrels can be changed by the user. Several excellent companies offer replacement barrels.

its great you're just stuck with a less than stellar chassis forever unless you drop $500 on upgrades

 

[fdkay]

its great you're just stuck with a less than stellar chassis forever unless you drop $500 on upgrades

Apparently you missed the part of his post that says he wants an off the shelf rifle that he doesn't have to mod.
The RPR give him that, and allows SOME mods as his experience and pocketbook allow.
Is is perfect? No, but they offer incredible performance for the price.

 

[b6graham]

Apparently you missed the part of his post that says he wants an off the shelf rifle that he doesn't have to mod.
The RPR give him that, and allows SOME mods as his experience and pocketbook allow.
Is is perfect? No, but they offer incredible performance for the price.

didn't miss it

just stating the not so obvious so newbies who didn't realize they'd have to spend a shitload on their RPR to get the function of a krg bravo

 

[VP47PPC]

Bergara HMR PRO, all you need to add is a Little Bastard muzzle break. I have been competing with mine for two years and like it LOTS. Accurate with factory Hornady Match ammo (.4inch @100yd) great trigger and stock I am good with. By the time the barrel shoots out you can put a better barrel on and whatever chassis you decide you want. For PRS/Fclass you want 6.5C, 6.5X47 or same two in 6mm, YOU DO NOT NEED a 6.5PRC !!!! BTW F Class is a couple nutso levels up in money and top quality barrel, optics and equipment. PRS you gust have to minute of steel gongs, F-Class you need to punch the X/10 ring every time at 1000 yards. Two different games PRS vs F Class.

 

[fdkay]

didn't miss it

just stating the not so obvious so newbies who didn't realize they'd have to spend a shitload on their RPR to get the function of a krg bravo

Bullshit.
I like Howa's and I own two rifles in Bravo stocks (both rem 700's).
I also use an RPR at work.
Please detail for us "newbies" exactly what "function" the KRG Bravo performs that the RPR does not?
To be clear, the Howa Bravo IS an excellent choice.
You are apparently emotionally invested in them, and can't stand the thought that something else can serve the same function.

 

[Chickentoast]

Don't forget to check GB... I know you didn't say 308, but those Tac A1's could be a steal. If I didn't have 2 308's already, I'd be grabbing one for myself. LRP is a bench gun, and the 5R is light enough to hunt, both great deals right now, just depends how they get bid near the end. Finally, a blued t3x lite is always available for <500 - check gun.deals for current. Stainless is generally 100 bux more fyi. If you're flexible with cartridge, deals are also easier to find.

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Tikka T3 JRTXE382 T3x Lite 6.5 Creedmoor 3+1 24.30' Black Right Hand

<p>Tikka's T3x Lite combines high performance with lightweight ease. The T3x receiver introduces a widened angular ejection port making it easier to feed one cartridge at a time, and extra screw placements on top of the receiver to robustly attach a Picatinny rail. The Lite models are equipped...

lockedloaded.com

 

[DRT308]

Personally, I would get a Thompson center compass. Sub moa out of the box for less than $400. You could out $1000. Into improvements, scope or whatever. Not going to win a super long range trophy but is quite adequate for the shooting I would be doing.

 

[fdkay]

Boy, you guys are really making me rethink my initial decision to get a stock rifle and leave it stock. I kinda shudder at the prospect of working my way through all the custom part makers, but probably I'm safe just to go with recommendaions in this thread.

May I ask, when you buy all the parts for a custom build, it has to get sent to you, meaning, an FLE (FLR?). Do all of the parts have to go through the FLE? That could add another $30 per part, so maybe another $150.

FFL Federal Firearms License.
The only part that must go to an FFL is the action. The Stock, trigger, barrel etc... Can all be shipped straight to you.
Figure out how much you are willing to spend. There are a couple of companies offering "production" custom rifles for 2000 dollars. Shop wisely, there is one company that will take your money and MAYBE deliver in 18 months. maybe.

 

[NewsShooter]

Don't forget to check GB... I know you didn't say 308, but those Tac A1's could be a steal. If I didn't have 2 308's already, I'd be grabbing one for myself. LRP is a bench gun, and the 5R is light enough to hunt, both great deals right now, just depends how they get bid near the end. Finally, a blued t3x lite is always available for <500 - check gun.deals for current. Stainless is generally 100 bux more fyi. If you're flexible with cartridge, deals are also easier to find.

GunBroker.com - Error

GunBroker.com - Error

GunBroker.com - Error

GunBroker.com - Error

Tikka T3 JRTXE382 T3x Lite 6.5 Creedmoor 3+1 24.30' Black Right Hand

<p>Tikka's T3x Lite combines high performance with lightweight ease. The T3x receiver introduces a widened angular ejection port making it easier to feed one cartridge at a time, and extra screw placements on top of the receiver to robustly attach a Picatinny rail. The Lite models are equipped...

lockedloaded.com

LRP isn't just a bench gun, I used it for PRS type matches, my custom built on an impact action is heavier and I shoot it offhand as well.

 

[BaconBits]

My 308 110 tactical shoots .25" at 100yds with hand loads. Love the thing.

 

[jsel10]

Tikka hands down

 

[rootacres]

Hard to go wrong with the Tikka. That said Bergara has some good options and are rem 700 clones. Good aftermarket support.

 

[want2learn]

would you perhaps consider the Seekins Havak Pro HP1....it sounds like a good deal for $1330

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www.cabelas.com

or perhaps the Savage 110 Pro Elite for $1500

StackPath

 

[LiveToDrive]

I've played with the Havoc a couple times cause I was interested in buying one. Both were brand new. They had an annoyingly sticky action. You have to really concentrate on running it smoothly. Maybe they will break in, and maybe they just need cleaned and lubed. But after seeing similar reviews from others who had purchased them, I had to pass.