Rifle Scopes First time Shooter, questions about zeroing

[FreedomFeens]

1. SWFA SS 1-6 HD/Aimpoint H1
I have mounted the scope and red dot (on different rifles) and am ready to zero. The SWFA scope has two turrets, one on top and one on the right. Should I turn them counter clockwise as far as they can go do begin the zero process, or should i set them in the middle between their range of function(number of turns, for example if the dial could be turned 8 times, i would set it to 4)?

I am testing two ammo weights per rifle, based on barrel twist and then choosing and stocking which ever performs with the smallest group. I plan on shooting prone while outside. I will set the target for the .223 69gr and 75gr(1:7 twist) at 300 yards, what distance should i choose to zero at for a 168gr and 175gr(1:12 twist) 308 round? Obviously the red dot is for the 223 and the SWFA 1-6 for the 308.

I am confused about some of the measurements on the SWFA 1-6 reticle shown below. At the top of the reticle, it shows the hash marks being .12 mills thick, then on the bottom it shows them .8 and .4 mills thick. Am i missing something or did they make the hash marks different thicknesses? Also the 2 on the far right of the image, what is it pointing to? Is there a faq that explains mil/mil reticles/turret scopes.

 

[BLDTYLRY]

top measurements are referring to the thickness vs the bottom measurements are referring to the width of the hash marks.

 

[Blanman]

You should bore-sight it before zeroing. Basically just take the bolt out, look down the bore and orient an object or a target maybe 50-100 yards away in the center of the bore, and then adjust the reticle to aim at the same spot. If you do it correctly, that should at least put you on paper at 100. Most people zero at 100 yards.

As for the .12, .8 and .4 it's only saying that the hashmarks are .12 thick while the .8 and .4 are regarding how wide they are.

 

[FreedomFeens]

i guess i would need a bore sighting laser for each caliber rifle then. Also, i plan on making sure the reticle is level by using a string tied to a heavy object, letting it hang.

 

[KTDLS7]

You don't need a bore-laser.

As Blanman stated, mount the optic and remove the bolt. Block the rifle (or upper), sight down the bore and center on target, and adjust the reticle to target. I actually use my back fence (~ 50') using a paper plate with an "X". You will be on paper. I prefer an "X", because the reticle will hide "+". I have used this method on bolt guns, ARs, FN PS90, and I did a friend's M1A using a mirror. Been using this method for optics since mid 60s. I remember using a stop sign one time - we were in the apartment courtyard late at night. But it was 1971, and the apartment manager's son was a friend of mine.

 

[FreedomFeens]

So I still need to know if I shoot zero with my turrets set in the middle(4 turns clockwise) or should i set them all the way to the counterclockwise position before zeroing?

 

[Theo98]

My Methods

So I still need to know if I shoot zero with my turrets set in the middle(4 turns clockwise) or should i set them all the way to the counterclockwise position before zeroing?

FF,

First, get your scope perfectly level to your Rifle Action (via rails & turret knobs), then:

1. Yes, you can start with El. (top) & Win. (right) turrets set mid way of adjustments
2. Bore sight open barrel, centering target in crown view...Hold rifle solid in this position
3. Adjust El & Win to bring scope to target center. BS is consistent to All turret movements [B=bullet POI (point-of-impact) TO S=scope POI],
4. I zero at 50yds, then fine tune at 100 yds for my .30-06...your mileage might vary!

Hope this helps,

Ted

 

[FreedomFeens]

FF,

First, get your scope perfectly level to your Rifle Action (via rails & turret knobs), then:

1. Yes, you can start with El. (top) & Win. (right) turrets set mid way of adjustments
2. Bore sight open barrel, centering target in crown view...Hold rifle solid in this position
3. Adjust El & Win to bring scope to target center. BS is consistent to All turret movements [B=bullet POI (point-of-impact) TO S=scope POI],
4. I zero at 50yds, then fine tune at 100 yds for my .30-06...your mileage might vary!

Hope this helps,

Ted

Thanks ted! That helps

 

[KTDLS7]

OP,

If the optics are new and you have not messed with the turrets, they are probably already centered. Actually, it does not make any difference if the turrets are centered or not - you will adjust turrets until the dot (or reticle) are on the bore sight target.