Rifle Scopes Fix it stix Scope Jack

[_Windrider_]

I know where I stand in this. What about you?

Scope Jack | Fix It Sticks

Use the Fix It Sticks Scope Jack to quickly and easily level your scope to your NATO/Pic rail.

store.fixitsticks.com

 

[MarinePMI]

That's...interesting.

 

[Steel head]

Interesting concept

 

[Bkultra]

Can't use with one piece mounts and needs .25” under the rings to work. Put me down as against, feeler gauges are a better option.

 

[sodakhunter]

Cool gadget. Lots of moving parts. Is close enough good enough? Thats the question.

 

[Southern Custom]

Ingeresand nifty gadget with limited application. If someone handed me one and it would fit under my scope I would likely use it but my level mounted on a piece of steel bar stock has served well for many years. And cost .50 cents.

 

[schlaiek]

seems sort of gimmicky - while I appreciate the leveling mechanisms built into some 1 piece mounts, I haven't found them to be a true as doing it the old fashioned way with a pair of levels

 

[plt228]

Interesting but I’ll pass. I already got an Arisaka scope leveler if feeler gauges aren’t enough.

 

[Qwkcrss]

Looks decent.. don't think I have enough room under my scope though

 

[TheGerman]

But....my reticle usually isnt level with the rail on purpose?

 

[LeftyJason]

*adjustable parallels exist*
Hey let's make a new thing!

 

[acudaowner]

that's kinda neat might have to buy another rifle and scope just so I have another reason to get on . thanks for sharing that .

 

[Bitchtitsbob]

And here I thought "Scope Jack" was when I smeared FrogLube or CLP all over my scope and rubbed it up and down.

I don't think I buy enough scopes to warrant getting one, and I doubt the scopes in my price range leave the factory with level reticles, so in the end I'm still verifying with a plumb line. Kind of like a sight pusher, or boat, you just have to convince your friends to buy one so you won't have to.

 

[Dirty D]

I guess it’s a nifty gadget for anyone who doesn’t know how to use a plumb bob and a carpenters level.

 

[BlastersAreCool]

For classes I think it really would have its place. When you're working with 8-12 studs on 100 level precision rifle material (like setting a rifle up to shooter) it COULD make it a breeze to get many studs ready to go hot in short order. Is it the best method? Maybe not. Is it one more of MANY ways to accomplish the mission? Maybe so! I think it's a clever and innovative idea. I give it an initial thumbs up. Think I'll pick one up!

 

[NOMAD]

I have been using to since July. Its a nice little tool. You do need to have enough clearance to get it under the scope. If you have the clearance its simple and fast and works.

If you don't have the room then the wedges are a nice option.

Sure plumb bob and levels work. However you can use this thing on your bench and be done. Just another GREAT option like many other things on the market to toss in your tool box of options.

 

[thehun]

Not sure if its better than the Arisaka level...

 

[Hatari]

With a plumb bob and level you don’t have to worry about the reticle being slightly off in the tube

 

[memilanuk]

Not sure if its better than the Arisaka level...

Oddly enough, I've never been able to get satisfactory results from the Arisaka, compared to leveling off the rail, and then off the turret cap.

 

[littlepod]

I was just considering - https://arisakadefense.com/products/optic-leveler

 

[memilanuk]

That's the one I have - actually, I have the one with both heights of bars, but same-same.

Always ends up visibly canted when I use it. NF Competition, Vortex Golden Eagle, Bushnell ERS/XRS/XRSii/DMRii. Probably a few others.

Ended up going back to clamping the barrel in a vise, putting a Wixey angle box on the rail, leveling it, mounting the scope, leveling off the turret with the same device, then mounting the scope level. Never had an issue with the reticle being canted or with tall target tests. YMMV.

 

[littlepod]

That's the one I have - actually, I have the one with both heights of bars, but same-same.

Always ends up visibly canted when I use it. NF Competition, Vortex Golden Eagle, Bushnell ERS/XRS/XRSii/DMRii. Probably a few others.

Ended up going back to clamping the barrel in a vise, putting a Wixey angle box on the rail, leveling it, mounting the scope, leveling off the turret with the same device, then mounting the scope level. Never had an issue with the reticle being canted or with tall target tests. YMMV.

So these devices are basing your scope rail + bottom of scope to be level and aligned. When you say you are still canted after using devices, why do you think that is? I've always used the weaver scope leveling system since I've had it for years.

 

[memilanuk]

Beats the heck out of me.

Maybe I'm just not coordinated enough to hold the wedge in place while tightening the ring screws without skewing things.

Then again, I never had a lot of love for the feeler gauge method either.

 

[srt-4_uk]

Maybe I'm just not coordinated enough to hold the wedge in place while tightening the ring screws without skewing things.

It's probably that. I'd be willing to bet its always lower on the side you start tightening

 

[ToddM]

I can see in the field, or if you had a store to get them pretty close really fast it would have value. I've always hated the wedge/feeler gauge method, sometimes you can't get them to work well, and if you wedge a feeler gauge set in tight, and tighten the rings down, you'll have to hammer the feeler guage out. Leave it a bit loose and who knows if it's really level.

Once I came across the method of setting up a scope by shining a bright light "backwards" through it with a plumb line that's the only method I've used since. With most scopes you can't guarantee the reticle is perfectly plumb to the bottom of the scope but with most things the more $ you pay the better it is. I also see 2 other benefits to the "flashlight through the scope" method.

1) You can also do a down and dirty reticle travel test. Dial up a bunch of elevation and double check the reticle tracks plumb. In theory you can even do a rude tracking test. Simply use the reticle to mark on the wall the most drop you can, dial that # and see where the crosshairs are. I've been able to find a couple messed up old scopes this way without even going to the range.

2) If you do not shoot with a full adjustable buttplate (up/down/cant/etc.) You can slap your bipod on, get the rifle perfectly comfortable, lock down your bipod and then mount your scope plumb to your natural position with the rifle. This way you're not fighting between having the rifle comfortable and the scope plumb.

Sure you still have to shoot the scopes in to make sure, but this method has made it so much easier at the range, I almost never have to make a second adjustment. Also it never hurts to know multiple ways to do something, you never know when you won't have what you need to do one method but will to do another.

 

[Dirty D]

With a plumb bob and level you don’t have to worry about the reticle being slightly off in the tube

This ^
Assuming that your reticle is square to the housing is an assumption.

 

[Simonsza1]

I still like a fresh stack of playing cards

 

[LawnMM]

This ^
Assuming that your reticle is square to the housing is an assumption.

You know what they say about assumptions.

How do guys still think a canted reticle is fixed by rotating the tube in 2020?

If your reticle looks crooked it's probably off by at least a few degrees to even notice it and likely more than that. Send it back and get one that isn't.

You can't just rotate the tube and level the reticle.

 

[b2lee]

Got my tracking number today...so I'll see it in a few days.

 

[FourT6and2]

Playing cards work fine for me