School me on generators. Looking for one after this last hurricane fiasco that will power my fridge/freezer and whatever else when SHTF. Max price would probably be around $1000.
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Generators
- Thread starter TheBigCountry
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honda 7000, only honda, not one with a honda motor a honda generator, pay the premium you wont be sorry.
Diesel powered is my first choice as I have a 7kw Kubota low pro. 0.7gph at full load.
Dual fuel would be my next choice, run off of propane primarily, but have gasoline run option. Gas is much more portable than propane, so if you do run out of propane in an situation, you may be able to run some gas down. Natural gas is not an option to me as in a disaster there is a significant chance you won't have NG. LNG storage is a pain in the ass too.
Cheap generators are shit on voltage regulation and frequency control. not to mention usually not good on fuel economy and loud enough your neighbors want to kill you.
Keep an eye out for a RV removal like a Onan or Kohler, with the tight budget. I personally choose Onan over Kohler, as Kohler parts prices are a premium. Just run of the mill fridge/freezer and a few lights 3kw Gen min. 5-7kw for 2 units. I run a fridge/freezer, additional freezer, some lights, Ham gear, the computer, and a 1hp water pump that's inverter started off my 7kw.
Jerry makes a good point the Honda's are very tough to beat for the gas side.
I had a couple EU 3000's before the Kubota.
Dual fuel would be my next choice, run off of propane primarily, but have gasoline run option. Gas is much more portable than propane, so if you do run out of propane in an situation, you may be able to run some gas down. Natural gas is not an option to me as in a disaster there is a significant chance you won't have NG. LNG storage is a pain in the ass too.
Cheap generators are shit on voltage regulation and frequency control. not to mention usually not good on fuel economy and loud enough your neighbors want to kill you.
Keep an eye out for a RV removal like a Onan or Kohler, with the tight budget. I personally choose Onan over Kohler, as Kohler parts prices are a premium. Just run of the mill fridge/freezer and a few lights 3kw Gen min. 5-7kw for 2 units. I run a fridge/freezer, additional freezer, some lights, Ham gear, the computer, and a 1hp water pump that's inverter started off my 7kw.
Jerry makes a good point the Honda's are very tough to beat for the gas side.
I had a couple EU 3000's before the Kubota.
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max price of 1 k is going to be limiting, look at the honda 2k EU, even that will be higher but you can add the generators paralell to mak 4k in the future. 2k will keep fridge freezer and coffee pot going.
Just hooked up 17 generators in Florida. First most generators will last you a long while. Most people are not abusing them. Next they dont run that much. We have had to use our in Labelle for 3 times for 3-4 days each in the last 20 years. Biggest thing that you need to look at is what do you want to run and what load does it have to have, to start it up. For example, if your trying to run your whole house Air Conditioner it takes a huge load to get it to start up. Next if your going to tie it to your breaker box, make sure that you have an extra $150-200 for a good pig tale. Make sure you have the right connection and wire. Stay safe, I was down until Friday, and I am flying back in as soon as possible.
Honda is the way to go. Had one get submerged in a flood. Totally under water for hours. Drained and flushed all fluids, took the carb apart, replaced the spark plug and she runs like a top. Get the propane conversion kit. Cheaper than gas and keeps longer. Burns way cleaner, too.
For a grand you're going to have to buy used to get quality. If you ever decide to get up off a buck look at Northern Tool when they have a sale and get two of the smallest Honda inverter generators. Good enough to keep the freezer and fridge going with only one generator being used. AND, two is one and one is none.
God bless America
For a grand you're going to have to buy used to get quality. If you ever decide to get up off a buck look at Northern Tool when they have a sale and get two of the smallest Honda inverter generators. Good enough to keep the freezer and fridge going with only one generator being used. AND, two is one and one is none.
God bless America
Honda is good and quiet but any any 6500 watt with a 9-10,000 surge will do. It won't give you everything but it will do enough. A 2000 watt will do the fridge and a light or two. The gen has too be able to start motors this is where the problem lies. not running them, but starting them. They use 3-4 times normal current during inrush motor start. 12000 watt (12kw) will do much of house and one medium central ac.
This is going to piss off some of you but, I don't care.
Buying a custom gun, cans, scopes, NV, fancy trucks, hunting trip vacations, before providing for your family's safety says a lot about your life's priority's. A 3600rpm fly apart gen-set is but a band-aid, an that includes below bottom of the barrel Generacs to over priced-ed Honda's. The box store power generation field is full of pure advertising B/S an you will never find decent quality at any box store. Quality is never cheap, nor is automatic system that is almost bullet proof. Power generation education, is woefully lacking and all the rope start mfg's know that, an use that leverage to laugh all the way to the bank.
Buying a custom gun, cans, scopes, NV, fancy trucks, hunting trip vacations, before providing for your family's safety says a lot about your life's priority's. A 3600rpm fly apart gen-set is but a band-aid, an that includes below bottom of the barrel Generacs to over priced-ed Honda's. The box store power generation field is full of pure advertising B/S an you will never find decent quality at any box store. Quality is never cheap, nor is automatic system that is almost bullet proof. Power generation education, is woefully lacking and all the rope start mfg's know that, an use that leverage to laugh all the way to the bank.
Well then, start by pointing us in the right direction why dontcha?
ETA: Since my education and experience are all mechanical engineering related, I typically ask (and pay) professionals for their help and advice in other areas like home electrical. In this case, that typically means a licensed electrical contractor of good reputation in my local area.
We had a guy stop by the shop yesterday, trying to sell generators out of the back of a pickup truck.
Off-brand equipment that he claimed his boss, the owner of the company, had authorized him to liquidate below cost.
No name on the engine, but the generator had a make and model number.
He was pushing a 9500kw remote start model for $6850. His "catalog" had them listed at $23,000.
I googled the make and model and found them for $750 online.
I told him to hit the road, and that if he didn't leave town I was calling the cops.
I have considered buying one for our house, but our longest outage so far in five years has been about 4 hours. It doesn't hurt that Mrs. T works for the power company.
If I did buy one, I'd get the automatic setup and connect it to our propane tank.
Off-brand equipment that he claimed his boss, the owner of the company, had authorized him to liquidate below cost.
No name on the engine, but the generator had a make and model number.
He was pushing a 9500kw remote start model for $6850. His "catalog" had them listed at $23,000.
I googled the make and model and found them for $750 online.
I told him to hit the road, and that if he didn't leave town I was calling the cops.
I have considered buying one for our house, but our longest outage so far in five years has been about 4 hours. It doesn't hurt that Mrs. T works for the power company.
If I did buy one, I'd get the automatic setup and connect it to our propane tank.
I'm running one of the little Honda 2k right now.
It has a dual speed mode that allows it to run at lower rpm and lower output if needed.
Just running the fridge off of it right now.
It sits on my Lanai and I can't hear it running over the neighbors gen sets.
It sips fuel too. Ran it for 6 hours yesterday and it used less than a1/2 gallon of fuel.
It was like $930
What direction do you want to go? Are you talking a trailer portable that weights1.5-2K lb's (or bigger) with or w/o auto start, or you want to talk about something worth having, tied to you home that you can have a normal conversation standing by it while it's at 110% of rated load? You want talk about a manual system or complete auto package?
In my younger days I worked the EPG side for CAT, before moving up. Even a small unit like that, if it's a 100% CAT machine (not CAT branded) it's quality. But the quality really steppes up when you get to the 35 an 36 series. I did many a 35 series back when peak-shaving was king, an all the switch gear in the boxs was utility grade. Really enjoyed doing that kind of work, as we were dealing with folks who knew what life cycle O&M costs vs being down was really about.
As others have mentioned, the only prudent option in the 1k price range is a Honda EU 2k. Build
or buy an aux fuel tank.
Unless you have plans to keep a lot of fuel on hand, larger generators are not practical for long term use. Nothing worse than having a big ass generator and no fuel to run it.
Lots of practical benefits to a quiet and portable generator. You will find yourself taking it camping etc because it is so convient and non disruptive.
or buy an aux fuel tank.
Unless you have plans to keep a lot of fuel on hand, larger generators are not practical for long term use. Nothing worse than having a big ass generator and no fuel to run it.
Lots of practical benefits to a quiet and portable generator. You will find yourself taking it camping etc because it is so convient and non disruptive.
Jafo, (that makes me laugh every-time I see it under your logon)
For a small portable from 2500- 6500 watts ONAN (not a microlight Onan/Cummins)out of a motor home is king. They are not light, but are almost bullet proof, an cheap, compared.
For a Home, the engine should turn 1800rpm max, (with 1200 an 900 much better an 600rpm the best) at 60hz A/C output. The A/C Alternator, any of the following, Onan, Marathon( none Chinese), Standford- Newage, Kato, Lima, Kohler, There are others that are ok, but the aforementioned are better.
Engine Controls, the stand out here is ECU, never seen one installed an set up correctly that failed, ever in all my years of dicking with this stuff.
Automatic Transfer switch, again ONAN OT/OTC units are king, set up an grounded properly, followed by the 940 series ASCO (the new 300's suck), Kohler.
Russel Electric is king but not many what to spend 10K for a ATS, or get into utility grade.
Manuel Transfer switches, Square D, is king here, are fairly cheap as well.
Proper Installation is also required, you can have the best gear, but if it's installed or set up wrong, it will haunt you forever.
Some brands earned their nicknames very easely, like Gen-a-junk, or Junk-a-rac, so take heed of that.
The other option for those with tractors is PTO driven generators The King here is MTU on site power (used to be Katolight) gear driven an with 1000 or 540 rpm inputs. There are others but make sure they are gear driven, not belt. These are a 2-1 deal 50 hp of tractor will = 25KW of gen output. 2-1 holds true up an down.
For a small portable from 2500- 6500 watts ONAN (not a microlight Onan/Cummins)out of a motor home is king. They are not light, but are almost bullet proof, an cheap, compared.
For a Home, the engine should turn 1800rpm max, (with 1200 an 900 much better an 600rpm the best) at 60hz A/C output. The A/C Alternator, any of the following, Onan, Marathon( none Chinese), Standford- Newage, Kato, Lima, Kohler, There are others that are ok, but the aforementioned are better.
Engine Controls, the stand out here is ECU, never seen one installed an set up correctly that failed, ever in all my years of dicking with this stuff.
Automatic Transfer switch, again ONAN OT/OTC units are king, set up an grounded properly, followed by the 940 series ASCO (the new 300's suck), Kohler.
Russel Electric is king but not many what to spend 10K for a ATS, or get into utility grade.
Manuel Transfer switches, Square D, is king here, are fairly cheap as well.
Proper Installation is also required, you can have the best gear, but if it's installed or set up wrong, it will haunt you forever.
Some brands earned their nicknames very easely, like Gen-a-junk, or Junk-a-rac, so take heed of that.
The other option for those with tractors is PTO driven generators The King here is MTU on site power (used to be Katolight) gear driven an with 1000 or 540 rpm inputs. There are others but make sure they are gear driven, not belt. These are a 2-1 deal 50 hp of tractor will = 25KW of gen output. 2-1 holds true up an down.
I ran two freezers, a fridge and a small window unit on a Predator 4,000w generator. (4000 startup, 3200 running)
This is the harbor freight , 359 dollar generator.
If you get an 8000w you can run most of your house with the exception of the central a/c unit (including a couple of window units). They run about 569.
Honda makes really good shit, but I have zero complaints about my chinese knockoff.
If you want to run the whole house, including the central unit, you'll need about 12.5kw (this gives a bit of a cushion). Those are well over the 1000 dollar mark.
tri-fuel adapters run about 200 bucks.
I'm going to upgrade my 4000 (my son bought it for me to use with my camper) to a 7500/8000w unit and make the conversion to natural gas.
The ethanol pump gas kills small engines.
I found that my generator ran better and started easier if I put a bit of marvel mystery oil in the pump gas.
Then, I had to wait in line to buy gas.
Natural gas is the way to go if you have it available.
This is the harbor freight , 359 dollar generator.
If you get an 8000w you can run most of your house with the exception of the central a/c unit (including a couple of window units). They run about 569.
Honda makes really good shit, but I have zero complaints about my chinese knockoff.
If you want to run the whole house, including the central unit, you'll need about 12.5kw (this gives a bit of a cushion). Those are well over the 1000 dollar mark.
tri-fuel adapters run about 200 bucks.
I'm going to upgrade my 4000 (my son bought it for me to use with my camper) to a 7500/8000w unit and make the conversion to natural gas.
The ethanol pump gas kills small engines.
I found that my generator ran better and started easier if I put a bit of marvel mystery oil in the pump gas.
Then, I had to wait in line to buy gas.
Natural gas is the way to go if you have it available.
These are the hot ticket for transfer switch for 200a single phase, good price, utility will install, so no electrician to call.
http://www.generlink.com/
I have a Russell that I was able to get for free when I was doing a service upgrade for a commercial customer. Yeah no kidding about the new 300 Asco switches, I won't install them anymore. ASCO fights you on the warranty also.
http://www.generlink.com/
I have a Russell that I was able to get for free when I was doing a service upgrade for a commercial customer. Yeah no kidding about the new 300 Asco switches, I won't install them anymore. ASCO fights you on the warranty also.
One thing that was pointed out is the noise factor.
As stated earlier, I'm running the little 2kw Honda and yes, it's really quiet. The two houses next to me are running Troy Bilt junk and they are loud. However, the couple across the street are running a 5.6kw Kohler. I can hear that one over the two I'm sandwiched between.
None of them are smart enough to just shut them down at night and restart in the morning. Burning a ton of gas trying to keep cold things cold. I don't get it, but it's their money.
As stated earlier, I'm running the little 2kw Honda and yes, it's really quiet. The two houses next to me are running Troy Bilt junk and they are loud. However, the couple across the street are running a 5.6kw Kohler. I can hear that one over the two I'm sandwiched between.
None of them are smart enough to just shut them down at night and restart in the morning. Burning a ton of gas trying to keep cold things cold. I don't get it, but it's their money.
After Isabel I purchased a Generac 7500 with a 13500 surge capacity, and I think it cost me about $1400, delivered from an electrical supply place, but I forget which one. Found it on the internet. I guess this was before Generac started with the cheaper yellow version. I had a manual transfer switch installed next to the panel and it has worked great ever since. I think the total cost for equipment and labor came in right around $1900 or so. It's a portable generator so I have to move it from the garage when I want to use it, no big deal though unless there is a foot or so of snow, then it just takes a little more work.
It runs everything I need, including the air conditioner in the summer. Straight A/C unit, not a heat pump. I did have to pick and choose which circuits to use as it can't handle everything at once, but it works great and keeps what we need running. As long as I have fuel on hand. It's not quiet though, but I'll take power over silence. It also has the dual mode capability where it will run much slower on less load, but there must be something in the adjustment because as soon as any load come on, even lights, it kicks up to max noise mode right now and stays there until everything is off.
It runs everything I need, including the air conditioner in the summer. Straight A/C unit, not a heat pump. I did have to pick and choose which circuits to use as it can't handle everything at once, but it works great and keeps what we need running. As long as I have fuel on hand. It's not quiet though, but I'll take power over silence. It also has the dual mode capability where it will run much slower on less load, but there must be something in the adjustment because as soon as any load come on, even lights, it kicks up to max noise mode right now and stays there until everything is off.
Agree with Onan. Back in the 80s, Onan 5 to 25 Kw gensets ruled the 35 to 65 ft offshore fishing and cruising yacht market. Bertram, Hatteras, Viking, Ocean, Magnum, Phoenix Marine, Egg Harbor all used Onan diesel gensets.
My dad's own Bertram 38 had a pair of Cummins VT555s for main propulsion and an Onan 6.5Kw for AC power (stove, oven, fridge, AC, water heater)
My dad's own Bertram 38 had a pair of Cummins VT555s for main propulsion and an Onan 6.5Kw for AC power (stove, oven, fridge, AC, water heater)
My set up is different than most, as before the wife passed away, I had to make sure there was never a power outage at my home while I was away, do to her med condition. Therefore I am 3 levels of redundant deep. Last level being a 48Vdc 3K lb gel battery bank an inverter. The complete system was not cheap, but money was never considered, she was my wife. The primary gen is a 25KW duel fuel, with N/G as primary an L/P as back up from two 250 gallon tanks. Why duel? N/G pressure is now raised (if required) via electric motors/pumps, not engines/pumps, so a none line issue far away can effect you! This year I will be adding a 1K gallon under ground tank, if I decide to stay here as I have an idea of whats coming.
Noise is not an issue as mine runs at 58db @ 3 feet, so unless you can see the position lights on the ATS when inside you have no idea which system your on, out side the exhaust heat can be seen. In this county power is out a lot, last year the primary gen-set logged 67 hrs of black start run time.
Noise is not an issue as mine runs at 58db @ 3 feet, so unless you can see the position lights on the ATS when inside you have no idea which system your on, out side the exhaust heat can be seen. In this county power is out a lot, last year the primary gen-set logged 67 hrs of black start run time.
Isabel was in 2003, so I'm sure prices have gone up considerably. I will say that mine works as good today as the day I had the transfer switch installed, so while it is a bit more work to hook it up when I need it, I'll keep what I have for now. I suspect that the generator your electrician was referring to is a permanently mounted, hard wired generator with an automatic transfer switch. Probably a lot more generator than mine, especially since mine is portable. It's heavy and cumbersome, but it is on wheels so it's portable, and 11kw is a good upgrade from my 7.5kw. What you quoted is about the price I've seen for large, permanent, automatic transfer switch installations. Even taking into consideration the inflation, I think what you are talking about is a substantial upgrade from what I have.
there it is. i have a small honda generator, it's the titties. sips gas and starts easy, runs long. quiet, too. pay the extra for the honda.
Yep, Honda. Not sure what mine is, it came with the house but it sure works. I need to service it come to think of it. You need to modify your breaker box with either a transfer switch or with a special breaker lockout that only allows power to enter the box via the pole or the generator but not both --if you have your generator running when they re-connect the power, you'll electrocute the line workers and that's counted as murder or manslaughter depending.
You may not be able to use the lockout breaker depending on where you live depending on the codes there --in WA it was good to go and it's much cheaper than a transfer switch.
I can run most of the house, all of the important stuff, with the generator. I think it's around 6kw? Be prepared to spend a lot on a power cord if you plan on running it any distance, depending on specs they can be very costly. I keep mine 100' away and it's still noisy. Whole neighborhood will know you have it.
Gov Liquidation has various generators used that can be had for very cheap, but you need to sign up and auctions are a pain in the ass; interestingly the logistics for the shipping are super simple and fairly cheap, even if by rail.
Quiet is nice but the noise can be almost comforting when you are without power. Also when buying a gen price is a factor. How much Do you or can you spend for something that will be rarely if ever used?
I got lucky and found a Kohler to replace mine that took a dump five hours in. Because even when you exercise them when unused they still get old. JMHO
I got lucky and found a Kohler to replace mine that took a dump five hours in. Because even when you exercise them when unused they still get old. JMHO
i am not criticizing nor judging, but
i find it funny someone would sacrifice on their generator and splurge on some stupid 45 to 65k car...i only need he 38k f350 but i am going to buy the tuskany for 75
go on vacation and blow 5 to 10 k, but sacrifice on a generator
20 3 to 5 k rifles in a 2k safe and you would listen to the old lady bitch about sitting in the heat or the cold
but the women are just as guilty, give you a blowjob for a new mercedes but chastise you for spending 10 to 14 for reserve power
i find it funny someone would sacrifice on their generator and splurge on some stupid 45 to 65k car...i only need he 38k f350 but i am going to buy the tuskany for 75
go on vacation and blow 5 to 10 k, but sacrifice on a generator
20 3 to 5 k rifles in a 2k safe and you would listen to the old lady bitch about sitting in the heat or the cold
but the women are just as guilty, give you a blowjob for a new mercedes but chastise you for spending 10 to 14 for reserve power
I'm your huckleberry. Jack of all trades (infantry and math for fuck's sake) but I was also a licensed 06 in WA (low voltage but the exams are all about high voltage!). Helps father was electrical engineer and passed a lot on. Very mechanically inclined. Not in generator sales or mfg. and limited experience with them. Worst generator was the APU that came on the original 2001 model Stryker vehicles. THAT was a piece of shit whatever it was, whoever made it.
What I can say is the goddamn Honda has worked year after year and gets used yearly save last year which was a mild winter (we actually have one because we live in an area that has yearly wind storms, which are coming soon, and occasional ice storms). Despite having a neighbor that's a fucking lineman, who ALWAYS takes the job first to get OUR power back on FIRST (he's awesome) we still have to run on generator power, sometimes a couple days. Running a generator constantly for days on end really taxes it. They rate 'em by hours of use and can require oil changes during long use periods (I like Mobil 1 for all motor oils, that shit's still good when you change it, definitely noticed a difference using it the past 20 years or so). This one has at around 200+ hours and runs like a raped ape still. Maintenance goes a LOOONG way with generators. Or any mechanical system for that matter.
Read the book, follow the instructions and do the damn maintenance. Honda actually made it pretty damn easy, a full schedule can take less than an hour, less still if you have practice; minutes for just oil changes and basic stuff. I think Honda is the best generator you can get for a homeowner and may be for some light to medium professional work too. It's that good.
Also, once you've spent the 6k on a safe, the first one, filled it with half a million in arms and armaments, converted 400sq. ft. into an arms shop and loading factory, linking 10k .50BMG belts, invested in god knows how many dollars in optics and electro optics, MG mounts, flex mounts, armor, etc., secured it all with redundant electronic security measures and counter measures, bought and paid for a car and a truck, what else is on the agenda? I consider this protecting my family! My wife wants for comfort, she does not want for security or safety. Besides, she gets it, she carries herself and has a nicer AR than most of us on here. And a new bed and wood floors are on the horizon. What am I doing wrong in your eyes?
But like I said, my generator came with the house. Lady didn't wanna take it with her! Brand fucking new too! But had I needed to buy one, I'd have bought this one most likely. I bought our Honda lawnmower (gets used ONCE a year now that we stopped watering the yard!) but it runs like no other lawnmower I've ever used and I cut grass as a kid and went through a lot of good ones. Honda makes damn fine small motors and their engineering goes beyond the obvious. There is some real ingenuity in there and it was designed very well. Very easy to maintain (except the flame arrestor) and only complaint is the battery is dead and I have to pull start it --boo-hoo. I can also jump start it if I please.
Finally, can't stress enough GET A TRANSFER SWITCH OR LOCKOUT BREAKER (the metal lockout type that only allows power to enter from the street OR from the generator, but not both!). I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH! You can kill a lineman without that. If you just unplug items and plug directly into your generator, not a problem, but if you wire this into your house panel, you NEED to have those protections. Again, CAN'T STRESS ENOUGH!
Brush up on your amps, voltage, etc. You need to know the limitations and how much power you can distribute. You want to keep the max input less than the max output, rated for 10A doesn't mean you should push 10A through that circuit constantly. You don't want a fire. It's why you need one a bit more powerful than what you think. But 6.5k or so will run the fridge, kitchen power, heat pump, all bedroom and bathroom power and the hot water tank. I just turn off the breakers I don't need.
I think you'll need to seriously reconsider your price because there are hidden costs, like the custom cord you'll need, transfer switch if required by your local law (which are more expensive than lockout breaker switches) and if you want to run it into your house, you'll need to add a 50A+ socket.
Finally, if you are at ALL unsure of any of this, it would SERIOUSLY behoove you to have an electrician at least give you a plan if not do it himself. You can easily burn your house down or ruin all your appliances if not careful. There is only one way of hooking these up and that's the right way --all else will lead to problems sooner or later.
For super budget, Honda makes/made generators for the army that sell for really cheap, they made TONS of them and they don't put out much power but for $100 or so you can buy several and hook them up to the individual items --fridge, tv, etc. But they've been heavily used, lightly maintained and sat for a long time.
One place to get good used generators may be motor home sales --these guys are always upgrading and they depend on them so they generally have some nice ones for sale and probably for a good deal. Worth looking into. Good luck!
Honda makes a great generator no doubt. But many can't afford that level when for 350 you can get the job done. Wiring direct to the buss is best and convenient but many have no skill to attempt it. I think auto transfer switches are a waste of time and money when a manual transfer with a mechanical interlock will do. Also a friend told me about a device called a propane snorkel. The snorkel will convert any small gas engine to propane. You can even get a dual fuel model. This is a big convenience over feeding the gasoline pig. Propane stored does not go bad like gasoline either.
There is not one system that is right for everyone. Not everyone can afford a safe filled with arms either.
There is not one system that is right for everyone. Not everyone can afford a safe filled with arms either.
You also better brush up on power factor correction. All single phase gen-sets (other then military) are rated at a unity (1.0) power factor. So volts X amps = watts but only at a unity power factor. Unity only applies when the voltage wave form is in step with the current wave form. When you power a reactive load ( lagging power factor) ie motors, florescent lights, transformers, ect the unit rating drops like a rock,even though the KW, (true power rating of the engine only) stays the same, but the KVA rating changes drastically. The rope starts mfgs do not tell you this, why because they are in the selling end an the consumer has to prove it was not over loaded to get any warranty at all. Everyone knows/assumes if something is burnt up it was over loaded, right maybe,...maybe not depending stated rating. A 6500 watt rated single phase unit with a 0.8 laging power factor load applied still has 6.5kw engine rating but the A/C alternator rating just drop to 3900KVA, exceed either rating and you will either kill the engine, or burn up the alternator at some point do to over heating the winding's. If you really what to drop a sets rating have it power a none linear load that has SCR's, gated diodes an such. A leading PF load can be very interesting as well. Or a system where the gen-set harmonics line up with the load harmonics. With the later I have seen even experienced field guys an most EE's give up on why it happens, let alone know how to correct it very simply.
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