Help me set up my AR for my first course

[Jig Stick]

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This is what I have to work with for my first carbine course. A Preban Bushmaster XM15-E2S CAR15. I put in a BCM buffer tube, heavier spring and plug, some MagPul furniture, and a sling attachment point where the buffer tube meets the lower. I know it is not ideal, but it is what I have on hand.

Is there any way to "appropriately" mount an Aimpoint Micro T-1 or Comp M4 on this kind of setup? Can somebody recommend a basic 1-2pt sling for this rifle to be used for my course? I was contemplating registering this lower as an SBR and then buying a nice new 10.5in upper to run with my suppressor, but is it worth doing to a bushy lower?

 

[Thebelly]

what is the carbine course? Is it a basic beginner's course, somethign that you're going to run around with, or something that has been steered towards the 3-gunners/competition shooters?

I attended my first course with iron sights and an army issue nylon sling. I learned a crap ton about how the gun works. Besides, the batteries don't run out on a set of irons.

If you want to mount a red dot, get one of these: Amazon.com : ProMag AR-15/M16 Gooseneck Carry Handle Optic Mount, Black : Sports & Outdoors so that you can co-witness the irons through the RDS.

 

[Nuke8401]

I took the SIG academy Patrol Rifle Instructor course (5 days) and max distance was maybe 75 yds but the qual was 50 yds and in so irons would have been fine. If your class is similar here is my advice:
Red dots were common but I would rather use irons over a red dot unless shooting in low light. I used a Leupold CQT (1-3x with ILL). I used/use a Vtac sling because of the quick adjust feature. The instructors (and I after day one) mounted the butt side of the sling to the right hand side of the rifle to allow seamless transition to weak side shooting. So whatever sling you choose make sure you can transition to weak side if required by the course. If there is ever a time for a "battle belt" this is one. With a battle belt you can mount (and it will support) a dump pouch, plenty of mags and a pistol if needed. Chest rigs were used by many (cops mostly) but were much slower on the reloads and prone shooting was not so good. A battle belt can be worn outside whatever clothing you have to use vice fighting to reach normal belt mounted mags under a jacket. Take plenty of mags so you can load and stage them with your pack, that way when you take a break you don't have to reload mags just grab more. This gives you time to grab a snack/drink and shoot the bull. I had to improvise a battle belt by wearing a larger size instructor belt on the outside on my jacket. While it worked, the support of a battle belt is superior and is what I use now for these type classes. It also allows you to easily dump the rig for lunch or a break. I mentioned dump pouch, if there is one piece of gear I would take besides the rifle, mags and ammo it would be a dump pouch.

 

[RicosRevenge]

I took the SIG academy Patrol Rifle Instructor course (5 days) and max distance was maybe 75 yds but the qual was 50 yds and in so irons would have been fine. If your class is similar here is my advice:
Red dots were common but I would rather use irons over a red dot unless shooting in low light. I used a Leupold CQT (1-3x with ILL). I used/use a Vtac sling because of the quick adjust feature. The instructors (and I after day one) mounted the butt side of the sling to the right hand side of the rifle to allow seamless transition to weak side shooting. So whatever sling you choose make sure you can transition to weak side if required by the course. If there is ever a time for a "battle belt" this is one. With a battle belt you can mount (and it will support) a dump pouch, plenty of mags and a pistol if needed. Chest rigs were used by many (cops mostly) but were much slower on the reloads and prone shooting was not so good. A battle belt can be worn outside whatever clothing you have to use vice fighting to reach normal belt mounted mags under a jacket. Take plenty of mags so you can load and stage them with your pack, that way when you take a break you don't have to reload mags just grab more. This gives you time to grab a snack/drink and shoot the bull. I had to improvise a battle belt by wearing a larger size instructor belt on the outside on my jacket. While it worked, the support of a battle belt is superior and is what I use now for these type classes. It also allows you to easily dump the rig for lunch or a break. I mentioned dump pouch, if there is one piece of gear I would take besides the rifle, mags and ammo it would be a dump pouch.

I have one of these on my belt... Strobe/Compass Pouch - vital equipment for me as it fits a can of Skoal nicely... jest sayin'... LOL!!

 

[LRRPF52]

You don't usually need an H buffer in the 11.5" gun unless the port is really large. My first 2 AR15's purchased after learning on a Colt Sporter II were both Bushmaster 11.5" with the same heavy barrel/5.5" flash hider you have, and they ran like champs in high volume.

You're basically working with a 1980's to early 1990's configuration, so I would consider one of the ARMS mounts for the carry handle, and then place the RDS on that, and get a Delta cheek piece with a standard CAR Fiberlite stock. Since you already have it Magpul'd out, consider just using a fiber optic front sight post, as I have done on my 727.



+1 for the Right Hand sling attachment on the stock. If you are RH, place the attachment point on the right side. Your ACS should have come with a QD socket that is probably on the left right now. You are pretty limited in front sling attachment points with the carbine handguards.

+1 on taking plenty of mags so that you can focus on shooting and learning, not loading and getting distracted from the course. Take a good dump bag as well, and a Camel Bak. Start hydrating now, and have plenty of snacks after washing your hands from lead residue. I highly recommend Probar meal replacements.

Have good ear pro and protection from the elements. Kneepads are usually a good idea. Work out your sling issues before you go to the course. Study Green Eyes and Black Rifles from Viking Tactics, and learn how to set your sling up correctly for your height/chest build. Green Eyes & Black Rifles - Autographed By Kyle Lamb | 5.11 Tactical

 

[GH41]

I am an ass hole so here we go. I wouldn't burn a stamp on a BM anything! If I had what you have I would sell it and start over. There are plenty of uninformed idiots that will pay you top dollar for it!

 

[eodcam]

If you want to run an aim point or eotech you could install a knight RAS and mount it on there.

 

[Thebelly]

I am an ass hole so here we go. I wouldn't burn a stamp on a BM anything! If I had what you have I would sell it and start over. There are plenty of uninformed idiots that will pay you top dollar for it!

what he's talking about is that BM guns haven't been known to withstand too many severe rigors... specifically, the redundancy that is built into a lot of 'top tier' manufacturers simply aren't there (again, historically speaking) into a BM gun. Things such as staking the end plate to the castle nut, correct staking on the carrier key, and using a type of steel that resists heat cycles less AND has a twist rate that doesn't 'traditionally' allow for the heavier bullets to be stabilized correctly.

Honestly, a BM gun (especially if it's a few years old) has a high probability of actually making through a carbine class, but probably only the first one. Keep it lubed and it should run fine. Again it will probably/maybe make it through one class... it almost definitely WON'T make it through another high round count carbine class without going through each piece and figuring out what needs fixing and then fixing it......by that time you might as well have just gone out and bought a rifle that will make it through thick and thin without a hiccup and then come back for more.

Lots on here can provide recommendations about which manufacturers to choose from, as far as factory built guns are concerned.

 

[jasonfaz]

I wouldnt waste the time on a form 1 for that lower either. I'd go out and fondle some of the better lower designs out there (KAC, AXTS, San Tan, LWRC, Spikes Gen II, Seekins, etc) and SBR that one. The upper is most definitely something that you should let go, and honestly i wouldnt even waste the cash on a carry handle mount for a t-1. Id just use the iron sights, which really isnt all that bad. It'll give you a good foundation to build on, and once you're ready to throw a modern upper on it, you'll likely have a much better idea of what you would consider an ideal set up.

For a sling I like Blue Force and Magpul's covertible slings. The Vickers is a good choice as well.

 

[Scotts556]

I would keep it as is. Maybe add a vickers sling and take the course. Ive seen a lot of brad new soldiers order all kinds of shit for there Weapons and then they cant work the weapon. Run it stock. Master the basics, then move out smartly from there. Basic weapon manipulation will carry you farther in the long run than high speed gadgets. Down range when we are almost shooting daily, I could run a stock M4 with a CCO, just as fast as the dudes with the cool guy shit. All I added was a flashlight, Vertical grip, and a Voltor Stock so I Can keep batteries on my weapon.

 

[DT1]

Take the course with your carbine as is. The targets at most of these classes are at pistol engagement distances so the irons will be just fine. At the class, you'll see other configurations and probably get a good idea of upgrades that will fit your needs. Please don't mount a red dot on top of your carry handle. It'll completely mess up your cheek (errr chin) weld.

Also, don't worry too much about the mfg of your carbine right now. It's true that Bushmaster, RRA, DPMS etc are considered "hobby guns" but you could probably shoot 10 or more classes before the potential shortcomings of a BM creep in.

When is the class and who is the instructor?

 

[Jig Stick]

The class is Nov 9, and it is being taught by guys from ATG in Ohio. I believe they are all current, former, or reserve SF. I know our main instructor is a SEAL with 17yrs in. He is the owner of ATG, and a friend of a buddy of mine who set up the course. Its a private course…being put on for just me and 7 of my buddys.

ATG Worldwide - Home

 

[Nuke8401]

I visited their website, looks like they are fans of the drop-leg pistol holster set-up. The main/only advantage I see in a drop-leg is clearance when using a chest rig/body armor, otherwise it's just slower and many of the rigs bounce around. Ear-pro was mentioned before and a cheap version is a set of Surefire EPs (the foam ones with the tube in the center, $15) and a set of electronic muffs, volume turned up. Either will allow you to hear verbal instruction without removing your hearing protection. The round counts on their carbine classes look low, 200-400, so like others have said I would just lube the gun well and run it as is. It looks like you will be using a pistol also, so your sling set-up will need to work well with dropping/slinging the rifle to your weak side/back to transition to the pistol. We had a few guys using single point slings in our class and they struggled. Don't skimp on the sling swivels, depending on the course you might be giving the sling/swivels a workout.
Have fun.

 

[madppcs]

For a sling, I like the Viking tactics padded 2 point. You could get the HK style clip for the front, and switch between a 2 point to a single point sling. (Yes I know he is setup up for a traditional style up front) but the HK hook will work great. Learn the rifle first before adding alot of accessories. Youll thank me for recommending getting a 2point to single point sling when you start doing strong side-support side transition drills. You wont (Need) an optic. Irons work just as good as a red dot, and Ive proven to myself that while shooting irons, (If I can see it, I can hit it). Irons are highly underrated these days. Use the large diameter rear sight instead of the small diameter. Youll have a larger field of view. And I dont see anything wrong with using a Bushmaster lower for an SBR. Most people buy cheap lowers to begin with and build very capable rifles. As long as your gap isnt big when the upper/lower are mated, and it doesnt rattle when you twist them you wont have any problems.