Help please! Inconsistent headspacing

[alpha6164]

I reload both 308 and 300 win mag and been getting great results and trying to tighten up all aspects of reloading. I got the Hornady headspace kit and in my GAP 308 I know that when the headspace reads 1.6230" or higher the brass won't chamber.

I use Foster dies and let's say set up my die where I slows lower toward shell plate until my headspace reads 1.629" and the bolt closes with ease with a hint of resistance the last bit. I screw everything down and I will do five or six brass and they will all be good working 0.001" and then suddenly I will check a brass and the headspace reads 1.6221" and it started at 1.631" Like how the hell did I suddenly push back the HS 10 thou? And I make sure my brass is lined up in the gauge all the usual stuff.

So basically I am getting very inconsistent HS without changing my die setting. And the brass can be mixed head stamp so not sure of that makes a difference. All inputs appreciated.

 

[427Cobra]

Inconsistent lube application will cause inconsistent shoulder bump

 

[alpha6164]

I am using the Hornady case lube spray which is essentially dry.

 

[Graham]

Inconsistent lube application will cause inconsistent shoulder bump

I didn't know that.

Are you sure? I mean, it makes sense, but how?

 

[Dogtown]

Hydraulics. You should clean out your dies every now and then as lube can build-up in some (especially the ones without a drainage hole) and because it's an incompressible fluid, it can ever so slightly tweak your sizing.

 

[jelrod1]

Inconsistent lube application will cause inconsistent shoulder bump

This is the probably the answer and what I've found to be the biggest culprit of inconsistency. Also another thing I see that helps is to pause at the end of stroke for a couple seconds. It gives the brass time to completely conform. It's common to dwell at the end of stroke in metal forming operations and I find it helps me when sizing. I did a test a while back sizing 10 pcs quickly then 10 with a pause and the ones done quickly were all over the place. As far as lubing, I see the best results when using a lube pad and rolling 10 or so peices on it instead of spray or sizing wax. There are a lot of variables and some you can't control. You just have to control all you can and do what you do the same every time. I have also started annealing after every firing. It has helped with sizing consistency also as well as the neck tension benefits.

 

[sinister]

...and stop using Hornady and switch to something like Dillon spray or Imperial.

Try this technique: place brass in a plastic grocery store bag; spray with a few spritzes of Dillon case lube; close up the bag; knead all your cases so they are all equally coated; open the bag and let the alcohol carrier evaporate away; size your cases; tumble off the lube; prime and load.

Forster dies are excellent. If you are using mixed brass (especially if you are firing it from multiple rifles) you can sort by headstamp and brand, and check the brass before sizing to find your base line. If you are feeling ambitious you could anneal as well.

 

[bjay]

2 things.. we can never lube case uniformly that can cause it.. 2nd uneven preasure to the handle.. ive seen torque reloading press handle.. dont know how it works

 

[bjay]

And by the way .001 is very litle i would bump shoulder to .002

 

[FLIGHT762]

Inconsistent lube application will cause inconsistent shoulder bump

Absolutely true! After retiring, I have plenty of time on my hands. I've spent a lot of time using the Hornady head space gauge and testing shoulder bump. A good, consistent amount of case lube will result in consistent shoulder bump. My two favorite commercially made lubes are Imperial wax and Dillon case lube. I've used a number of other lubes that work well such as Kiwi Mink oil in the tin, Chapstick Mobil 1 synthetic 20-50 motor oil and Ballistol.

The Mobil 1 20-50 and Ballistol actually work very well, resizing cases with ease and gives very consistent shoulder bump. I use them for small jobs, but for the larger jobs, Dillon case lube works well.

There are actually a lot of great lubes that will work that are not marketed for case resizing.

I've read many accounts of stuck cases from people misusing the Hornady spray lube and getting inconsistent results. I don't use it, but I've also read the Hornady "Unique" case lube in the tub is a good resizing lubricant.

 

[George63]

I didn't know that.

Are you sure? I mean, it makes sense, but how?

imposible to prove just what the hell goes on the die, but the logical explanation to me is that with not enough lube the brass gets "grabbed" by the die and stretched back out - while the shoulder got bumped, the process then reversed when pulling the die off

I have even had brass come out of the die longer than it went in

 

[Graham]

Help please! Inconsistent headspacing

I have even had brass come out of the die longer than it went in

LOL! That is how it's supposed to work.

 

[George63]

longer base to shoulder - not the normal oal growing with sizing

 

[glock24]

Hi guys,

I've had similar issues, and I traced the problem to the expander plug at the end of the threaded decapping rod assembly. I'm sure it is related to a lack of lube as mentioned, but I believe the issue to be specific to expander plug friction getting too high while it is pulling up and out of the case mouth. When this happens it can pull the shoulder up with it. This obviously leaves headspace inconsistent, even though the sizing die is doing its job on the down-stroke.

I proved this to myself by completely removing the expander plug and sizing cases. My headspace variation vanished.

If you find that extra lube ain't helping, I have read about guys putting their expander plug assembly into a drill motor and polishing it up to a mirror finish with extra fine sandpaper and compounds.

Personally, I run my seating dies without an expander or decapping pin. Yes, it is more work, but I use a dedicated decapping die first. And then if I find my fired case mouths dented or bent, I run them through a Sinclair neck expander mandrel before a final run through an expander-less seating die. This produces the tightest headspace dimensions for me.

 

[Brux]

May be the different head stamped brass he's using.Some of it may stretch,flex and retract differently than others.

 

[bjay]

Hi guys,

I've had similar issues, and I traced the problem to the expander plug at the end of the threaded decapping rod assembly. I'm sure it is related to a lack of lube as mentioned, but I believe the issue to be specific to expander plug friction getting too high while it is pulling up and out of the case mouth. When this happens it can pull the shoulder up with it. This obviously leaves headspace inconsistent, even though the sizing die is doing its job on the down-stroke.

I proved this to myself by completely removing the expander plug and sizing cases. My headspace variation vanished.

If you find that extra lube ain't helping, I have read about guys putting their expander plug assembly into a drill motor and polishing it up to a mirror finish with extra fine sandpaper and compounds.

Personally, I run my seating dies without an expander or decapping pin. Yes, it is more work, but I use a dedicated decapping die first. And then if I find my fired case mouths dented or bent, I run them through a Sinclair neck expander mandrel before a final run through an expander plug-less seating die. This produces the tightest headspace dimensions for me.

or use carbide expander ball..

 

[alpha6164]

or use carbide expander ball..

Is this something i can get from any manufacturer such as Redding or Forster?


Another thing i notice is that if i run the same brass thru the die twice the headspace definitely gets smaller the second time!!!

This is really confusing to me. I though once the die is set that and the ram is pushed up all the way the shoulder can only be setback x amount based on how far the die is screwed down. For example, the first run when the brass gets sized and deprimed it will go from 1.631" to 1.629" and then now that it has been sized once and primer is gone if run it through again it gown down to 1.265" This is really frustrating the hell out of me lol

 

[glock24]

Take out that damn expander ball and watch the magic!

Here are your Redding carbide replacements;

REDDING CARBIDE BUTTON KIT - STD/TYPE S | Sinclair Intl

 

[bjay]

Is this something i can get from any manufacturer such as Redding or Forster?


Another thing i notice is that if i run the same brass thru the die twice the headspace definitely gets smaller the second time!!!

This is really confusing to me. I though once the die is set that and the ram is pushed up all the way the shoulder can only be setback x amount based on how far the die is screwed down. For example, the first run when the brass gets sized and deprimed it will go from 1.631" to 1.629" and then now that it has been sized once and primer is gone if run it through again it gown down to 1.265" This is really frustrating the hell out of me lol

like above said (george) when case is fired its fully expand,running to FL die it will give a lot of friction grab.thats why second time insert in bumps shoulder more coz your now have less grab tension..

 

[J-ROD]

Inconsistent lube as mentioned, also cases not annealed the same. I also have to run my die down a few thou farther for lapua versus win due to case thickness.
Definitely remove expander button and use expander mandrel that sizes on down stroke if you must.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[bjay]

Take out that damn expander ball and watch the magic!

Here are your Redding carbide replacements;

REDDING CARBIDE BUTTON KIT - STD/TYPE S | Sinclair Intl

or get a seperate sinclair expander die with the right mandrel this give me .000-0001 diff from FL bushing die no expander on decaping rod..using seperate expander die..ive noticed when expander is attach on decaping rod its stretch brass on his way out

 

[alpha6164]

Take out that damn expander ball and watch the magic!

Here are your Redding carbide replacements;

REDDING CARBIDE BUTTON KIT - STD/TYPE S | Sinclair Intl

I run the Type S die. Can I just take out the expander ball if I don't neck turn? Or is the expander mandrel a must? It would obviously be "easier" if I didn't have to use the expander mandrel so not have to run the brass another time. I looked up the Sinclair expander mandrel and trying to understand how it works. Do you use it before you size the body and bump shoulders or after? And how do I determine what size mandrel I need? I am using a 0.334 bushing in my die of that helps.

 

[FLIGHT762]

Yes, you can take out the the sizing button, then you need to use the proper size bushing, depending on what brass you are using. Different manufacturers may need a different size bushing. There's lots of information on this site. Here's a couple of threads on how top determine what bushing you will need for getting the proper neck tension.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...neck-bushing-size-lake-city-lr-308-brass.html

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...cting-neck-size-bushing-once-fired-brass.html

There's lots more threads since this question is usually asked weekly on the reloading forum. I don't use the expander ball, I have 5 different sized bushings that will work with the 5 or so different brands of brass that I use. Some reloaders do use the expander ball and like to get the proper sized bushing where the expander ball just kisses the inside of the case necks on the up stroke to get every neck uniform. I used an expander ball the other day with the bushings and found one case that had a very thick neck.

I don't use the Sinclair style expander mandrels, but it is the same principal of running the mandrel through the necks after resizing to get even neck tension. Maybe someone who uses them will chime in.

**EDIT** Here's a short article on neck expanders that might help you understand:

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/expander-mandrels-and-neck-tension/

I Found a you tube on the expander die:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA2U8WHHr9U

 

[bjay]

I run the Type S die. Can I just take out the expander ball if I don't neck turn? Or is the expander mandrel a must? It would obviously be "easier" if I didn't have to use the expander mandrel so not have to run the brass another time. I looked up the Sinclair expander mandrel and trying to understand how it works. Do you use it before you size the body and bump shoulders or after? And how do I determine what size mandrel I need? I am using a 0.334 bushing in my die of that helps.

Heres my process using sinclair you said your using 334 bushing this telling me its a 30 cal.if your planing to use sinclair expander youl have to remove expander ball from your type s dies.by doing this, it will eliminate doubt of oal stretchin on his way out by the expander ball .run sinclair AFTER you full length size case.now, on the mandrel size, sinclair only sell you two size of 30cal mandrel one is EXPANDER other is NECK TURNING the diff bet the two is expander is .0001 less than your bullet size necck turning is 0002..make sure GET THE EXPANDER MANDRELL

 

[bjay]

I dont usualy use expander die unless its virgin brass.. you already got type s dies take advantade get the right bushing expand only new brass or do like FLIGHT said if you still want to use expander die get the right bushing wher when you run expander it only kiss neck of brass this way it will give you true round neck and uniform neck tension..

 

[Suasponte]

Press Stroke! Slow it down and be consistant.



Terry

 

[glock24]

I run the Type S die. Can I just take out the expander ball if I don't neck turn? Or is the expander mandrel a must? It would obviously be "easier" if I didn't have to use the expander mandrel so not have to run the brass another time. I looked up the Sinclair expander mandrel and trying to understand how it works. Do you use it before you size the body and bump shoulders or after? And how do I determine what size mandrel I need? I am using a 0.334 bushing in my die of that helps.

Yes, you can always remove the expander ball from the die. The fact that you don't neck-turn is irrelevant.

However, know that when you remove the expander ball, The die will not correct any cases that have dented or bent case mouths. That said, I use the Sinclair expander mandrel (either 30 cal mandrel in your case) to fix any case mouth imperfections BEFORE I run them through the FL sizing die (without the expander ball)

Am I making sense?

As described above, I suppose the expander mandrel could be used after the FL die, but I would not recommend it. I would prefer to have the FL die be the last step to ensure a perfectly formed outside neck and shoulder dimension that in turn best matches the chamber of the rifle. Maybe I'm splitting hairs. Maybe I'm not.

P.S; to clarify your possible confusion; the Sinclair mandrel die is actually designed for neck turning. The mandrel is used to "clean up" the neck wall dimensions and push any thickness variations to the outside of the neck before turning the necks.

In our context, we are simply borrowing this mandrel die for a different purpose, i.e. "cleaning up" the neck dimensions before FL sizing . . .only because we don't have an expander ball in the die to do that same job. And again, although it is more work, the advantage is that the expander ball does not have the opportunity to screw up the headspacing.

 

[alpha6164]

Press Stroke! Slow it down and be consistant.



Terry

Holy shit. Thanks for the video that helps a lot. Do you guys really all count to three turn the brass and run it a second time? My stroke maybe even faster than his version of fast stroke LOL.


That really may be the issue after all.

 

[glock24]

Holy shit. Thanks for the video that helps a lot. Do you guys really all count to three turn the brass and run it a second time? My stroke maybe even faster than his version of fast stroke LOL.


That really may be the issue after all.

Also notice there is no expander ball assembly in his die.

 

[turbo54]

I suppose the expander mandrel could be used after the FL die, but I would not recommend it. I would prefer to have the FL die be the last step to ensure a perfectly formed outside neck and shoulder dimension that in turn best matches the chamber of the rifle. Maybe I'm splitting hairs. Maybe I'm not.

You are describing my process. In a Dillon 650, I use a Lee universal decapping die, then either an FLS die with decapping stem/expander ball removed (or a bushing die with a busing ~.010" UNDERSIZED), and finally, a sinclair expander mandrel with a "neckturning mandrel".

My rationale:

1. If you care about consistent neck tension/bullet grip, what matters is the difference between the INSIDE diameter of the caseneck and the OUTSIDE diameter of the bullet. Caseneck thickness variations will become neck tension variations if you size the outside of a caseneck.

2. Just as you mention, non-benchrest type brass that has been shucked out in the weeds, and stepped on before you get to reclaim it will often have out-of-round casenecks. A bushing selected to provide *just* enough necksizing to create an interference fit for the bullet will oftentimes NOT fix the neck. What is needed is to size it down so it's a decent bit too small, and then ram the mandrel into it on the inside to blow it back out to final desired size.

I've not had any issue with headspace changes occurring from the expander mandrel. Said another way, if the caliper reads "zero" after the case was run through the sizer, it will still read "zero" after then being run up onto the neck mandrel.

As many have mentioned, key factors in achieving consistent sizing are consistent lubrication, consistent operation of the press, and I've also noticed dwelling the ram at TDC for a moment helps.

One thing not mentioned yet is "camming over". I've found the most consistent case sizing when it just so happens my press must cam over (shellplate/shellholder forced against the die). I suppose this ensures all slack and freeplay is removed from the system - honestly, I don't know why...but I do know it helps with consistency. Not much you can do about it with a progressive press, but if you use a single stage, you can buy the Redding competition shellholder set, and pick the holder that causes camover when the sizer is set to provide the sizing you desire.

 

[Suasponte]

Also notice there is no expander ball assembly in his die.

True, no expander ball. Also note how I lube my cases!! No lube on the shoulders, only the case body.

Terry

 

[glock24]

You are describing my process. In a Dillon 650, I use a Lee universal decapping die, then either an FLS die with decapping stem/expander ball removed (or a bushing die with a busing ~.010" UNDERSIZED), and finally, a sinclair expander mandrel with a "neckturning mandrel".

Thanks for the explanation. It an interesting rationale that I would like to test. A couple questions though;

1. Do you ever find yourself wishing you could change the diameter of the mandrel to adjust neck tension? In other words, it seems like with your method you are essentially loosing any flexibility the different bushing dies would provide

2. Do you see any significant build-up of brass on the mandrel over the course of a hundred cases or so?


Thanks

 

[turbo54]

Thanks for the explanation. It an interesting rationale that I would like to test. A couple questions though;

1. Do you ever find yourself wishing you could change the diameter of the mandrel to adjust neck tension? In other words, it seems like with your method you are essentially loosing any flexibility the different bushing dies would provide

2. Do you see any significant build-up of brass on the mandrel over the course of a hundred cases or so?


Thanks

1. Not really. I've found ~.002" to work really well. The bullet pushes snugly but smoothly into the neck, and they don't get set back or jump forward under recoil. If you wanted custom neck tension, you could buy the "expander mandrels" (.308" for 30cal vs. .306" for the "neck turning mandrels") and simply chuck them in your drill, and use sandpaper to remove the couple .001"s needed to achieve your target. Bear in mind that mandrel will forever be the .00X" neck tension mandrel - neck thickness of brass won't affect it.

2. No. No brass buildup on LUBRICATED brass. I don't purposely lubricate inside the neck, but still, enough residual lube gets in there/on the mandrel to do the job. I've ever left the mandrel-ing to AFTER the cases were cleaned in stainless media, and that WILL result in brass buildup - at least with stainless mandrels...don't know about the carbide.

 

[[email protected]]

Great info.

Should I bump the shoulder back .001" on my once fired brass or just neck size and bump it back .002" on 2x fired?

 

[JByrd]

first, ALPHA
only use one head stamp brass
plenty of lube
plenty of flash time for the carrier " plan ahead, lube them all the day before and allow them to completey flash over night, size them the next day" an old reloading mentor gave me this one and it works well. ive tried to fast track it with a fan but keep going back to the overnight.
slow smooth stroke and pause at the top " jokes go here"


i do a hybrid of the above mentioned. my brass gets picked up out of the grass rocks etc and has been known to be steped on as well, so this is what I do. when setting up I pick the right bushing on a type s redding die to give me my desired neck tension. then I take the regular steel expander ball over to the shop and put it on a spare stem and spin it in a drill press and sand it down till I get a very firm snug fit then I hit it with some steel wool to make it real slick and that brings it to a very slightly snug fit, this irons out any dings they may have been smashed.

ive thought about it before and turbo brings the idea back to mind. ive thought about using a .001 under bushing and rehoneing a steel bushing to pull it back out to desired fit but have some concerns about it causing runout. but I need to test this and see.ive been meaning to do it but haven't gotten to it

 

[JByrd]

also annealing after every other fireing helps stay consistent when all other steps are correct. giraud annealer is the best in the biz.

 

[mdmp5]

Inconsistent lube application will cause inconsistent shoulder bump

What cobra is saying is true, but needs some explanation, and is only part of the story. When the brass is ripped out of the die, the body sticks to the inside of the die, and stretches it on the way out. Proper lubrication on the body can help avert this, but sometimes it happens anyway. To avoid the stretching, rock the lever up and down a few times on the way in. When you lower the arm, you will notice that the brass comes out much easier, and doesn't squeak. The brass will now be properly sized to the dimension you set the die up for.

 

[mtang45]

Press Stroke! Slow it down and be consistant.



Terry

Whats the name of that case headspace gauge you are using in the video?

 

[bigedp51]

What cobra is saying is true, but needs some explanation, and is only part of the story. When the brass is ripped out of the die, the body sticks to the inside of the die, and stretches it on the way out. Proper lubrication on the body can help avert this, but sometimes it happens anyway. To avoid the stretching, rock the lever up and down a few times on the way in. When you lower the arm, you will notice that the brass comes out much easier, and doesn't squeak. The brass will now be properly sized to the dimension you set the die up for.

When you properly lube your cases there is a film of lube between the die and the case, just like oil on a engine bearing. In 46 years of reloading I have never heard of or read of the case body stretching when properly lubed. I have heard of variations in brass causing spring back differences, excessive lube causing the shoulder to be bumped back more but NEVER the case body stretching as it is pulled from the die. In order for the brass to stretch it must be gripping the resizing die walls and that would be called a stuck case.

We lube the cartridges cases for the same reason you put oil in your engine, the oil or lube creates a film barrier between the moving parts and prevents them from seizing.

 

[bigedp51]

Whats the name of that case headspace gauge you are using in the video?

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting.../4615-mos-type-cartridge-headspace-gauge.html

You can calibrate the Hornady gauge to give actual headspace readings with a feeler gauge.

Below a Colt AR15 Field gauge II, 1.4736

Below the field gauge in the Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge reading off by .0001, I can live with that.

Below a new unfired and loaded Federal M193 cartridge, 1.4625

Below a fired Federal M193 case, 1.4675

Below the same case after full length resizing, 1.4645. A SAAMI GO gauge is 1.464 and the actual chamber headspace is approximately 1.468

1.4675 - 1.4645 = .003 shoulder bump for reloaded AR15 ammo.

To adjust the Hornady gauge I loosen the lock set screw and placed a .010 feeler gauge between the two parts of the gauge and then tightened the set screw. The gauge then is no longer a comparator gauge and reads actual cartridge headspace.

 

[mdmp5]

When you properly lube your cases there is a film of lube between the die and the case, just like oil on a engine bearing. In 46 years of reloading I have never heard of or read of the case body stretching when properly lubed. I have heard of variations in brass causing spring back differences, excessive lube causing the shoulder to be bumped back more but NEVER the case body stretching as it is pulled from the die. In order for the brass to stretch it must be gripping the resizing die walls and that would be called a stuck case.

We lube the cartridges cases for the same reason you put oil in your engine, the oil or lube creates a film barrier between the moving parts and prevents them from seizing.

Trust me, it happens. I rectified the problem, and now I get the correct headspace. Tight brass in the die sticks, and causes the squeaking sound.

 

[mdmp5]

Press Stroke! Slow it down and be consistant.



Terry

Terry,

If you size the brass twice, you get the same result. It is not necessarily the amount of time you leave the brass in the die. I have spent long amounts of time with this snafu before I figured it out. Whenever I sized brass twice, I got the headspace I was looking for. Now, all I do it gently run the brass into the die in 3 to 4 small pulls, then the brass comes out of the die with very little resistance. If you feel the case sticking on the eject, there is a chance the shoulder will be pulled forward.

Note that this phenomenon happens with medium to large cases, such as 308, 300WM and 338LM. It will not happen with 223 brass (or at least I haven't had it happen). This is because of the surface bearing area of the body in the die. 223 brass always sizes really easy and comes right out of the die like a hotdog down a hallway, and my shoulders have never pulled forward on 223 because of this.

 

[bigedp51]

Trust me, it happens. I rectified the problem, and now I get the correct headspace. Tight brass in the die sticks, and causes the squeaking sound.

In 46 years of reloading I have never heard of or read of the case body stretching when properly lubed.

You fixed your problem by properly lubing the cartridge case, the key words are proper lubrication. Lack of proper lubrication is the squeaking sound you are hearing.

Another problem is rough dies or grit embedded in your dies, this is solved by polishing the inside of the dies.

A properly lube case should not bind or stick in the dies at any time.

 

[mdmp5]

You fixed your problem by properly lubing the cartridge case, the key words are proper lubrication. Lack of proper lubrication is the squeaking sound you are hearing.

Another problem is rough dies or grit embedded in your dies, this is solved by polishing the inside of the dies.

A properly lube case should not bind or stick in the dies at any time.

Wrong...Look, I am not in the mood for an argument. If you could sit down with me, I would show you. It has NOTHING to do with my lubrication "technique". I always lube my cases. I fixed the problem by sizing the brass in a multi pull, rocking motion into the die, essentially easing it in there a little at a time, and then it comes out fine.

 

[elfster1234]

the two main causes to inconsistent shoulder bump / headspacing is:

1.) inconsistent lube..... ill usually will put a small dab of imperial wax in the palm of my hand, then spray the brass with spray lube, work the brass with the hand that has the small dab of wax in palm, then re-spray & re-work brass once again. Will use some imperial wax on a q-tip down the neck on the first & about ever 15th pc of brass re-sized.

2.) it really really is all about a consistent handle / ram movement... I usually set up my hornady LNL press / die depth so I STOP putting handle pressure the second it over-cams on the press / bottoms out... if you press too hard on the handle you will apply too much shoulder bump... I usually shoot for a -/+ of .001 for my target shoulder bump as you can never get it perfect & will check each pc of brass as I go to verify consistency.... consistency = accuracy.

I reload both 308 and 300 win mag and been getting great results and trying to tighten up all aspects of reloading. I got the Hornady headspace kit and in my GAP 308 I know that when the headspace reads 1.6230" or higher the brass won't chamber.

I use Foster dies and let's say set up my die where I slows lower toward shell plate until my headspace reads 1.629" and the bolt closes with ease with a hint of resistance the last bit. I screw everything down and I will do five or six brass and they will all be good working 0.001" and then suddenly I will check a brass and the headspace reads 1.6221" and it started at 1.631" Like how the hell did I suddenly push back the HS 10 thou? And I make sure my brass is lined up in the gauge all the usual stuff.

So basically I am getting very inconsistent HS without changing my die setting. And the brass can be mixed head stamp so not sure of that makes a difference. All inputs appreciated.

 

[bigedp51]

Wrong...Look, I am not in the mood for an argument. If you could sit down with me, I would show you. It has NOTHING to do with my lubrication "technique". I always lube my cases. I fixed the problem by sizing the brass in a multi pull, rocking motion into the die, essentially easing it in there a little at a time, and then it comes out fine.

You need to clean and polish your dies and reduce the friction and stop doing the three step friction dance double clutching boogie.

Meaning did you ever stop to think that your the only one resizing a case like this and looking like your having a epileptic seizure every time you pull the press handle.

Polish your dies and see if stops your problem, get a shotgun cleaning mop that fits your die snugly, put some Kroil and J&B bore paste on the mop and go to town with a short piece of cleaning rod and a hand drill.

 

[mdmp5]

You need to clean and polish your dies and reduce the friction and stop doing the three step friction dance double clutching boogie.

Meaning did you ever stop to think that your the only one resizing a case like this and looking like your having a epileptic seizure every time you pull the press handle.

Polish your dies and see if stops your problem, get a shotgun cleaning mop that fits your die snugly, put some Kroil and J&B bore paste on the mop and go to town with a short piece of cleaning rod and a hand drill.

A little dramatic criticism and rendition of pulling a press handle, don't you think? Already polished the dies. My problem was solved long ago. I was just trying to help someone else who was having headspace variation.

 

[bigedp51]

So basically I am getting very inconsistent HS without changing my die setting. And the brass can be mixed head stamp so not sure of that makes a difference. All inputs appreciated.

1. Sort your brass, you will ALWAYS have inconstant shoulder bump when the cases are not from the same batch and neck shoulder area are not annealed the same.

2. Use a good case lube and wipe the necks and shoulders off before resizing.

3. Now do like the video instructed and pause, this will help control the brass "spring back" and the varied cartridge case headspae length.

4. If you still have problems with the shoulder bump length then the press should be given a good going over. You stated you were having as much as .010 differences in case headspace length. Case lube and mixed brass should never give you that much variation so that leaves a mechanical problem with the press.

5. Are you using a Dillon progressive press?

6. Do you listen to Rap music when your pulling the press handle?

 

[alpha6164]

1. Sort your brass, you will ALWAYS have inconstant shoulder bump when the cases are not from the same batch and neck shoulder area are not annealed the same.

2. Use a good case lube and wipe the necks and shoulders off before resizing.

3. Now do like the video instructed and pause, this will help control the brass "spring back" and the varied cartridge case headspae length.

4. If you still have problems with the shoulder bump length then the press should be given a good going over. You stated you were having as much as .010 differences in case headspace length. Case lube and mixed brass should never give you that much variation so that leaves a mechanical problem with the press.

5. Are you using a Dillon progressive press?

6. Do you listen to Rap music when your pulling the press handle?

I currently own two presses. A Hornady LNL for pistol and Hornady 50 BMG press which is same as the RCBS Ammonaster. It is a big ass press and I use it to reload 50BMG and my precision 308 and 300 win mag. Hornady makes a conversion screw in piece so you can use regular size dies etc. You may be on to something though. Because it is meant to resize 50 BMG brass and I have don't about 1000 cases there is definitely a little wiggle I see in the ram going up. I don't know how or if that affects anything. I have a friend who has a Forster co-ax and there is no wiggle at all and seems much more precise. So last night I pulled the trigger and purchased one so it should be here early next week

 

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Yeah I LOVE my coax