How long to leave bore cleaner in barrel?
- Thread starter deersniper
- Start date
Wipe Out foam- According to directions, you can leave it soak overnight. I would imagine the same or longer for CLR.
My mistake. Thought I read CLP. I don't think I'd personally need to use CLR on a firearms.
I hear it’s good on. Carbon. Lol. And I have a carbon ring. But yeah it’s gonna eat finishes and steel if left on it too long. Some 22 shooters swear by it.
If your barrel is that jacked put a brush on a drill. You would be surprised.
I personally wouldnt put CLR in a barrel I cared too much about. Acid etches metal.
Calcium Lime Rust, more commonly known as CLR, is a household cleaning product used for dissolving stains, such as calcium, lime, and iron oxide deposits. Its ingredients include water, lactic acid, gluconic acid, lauramine oxide, Propylene Glycol, n-Butyl Ether, and solvents that dissolve cobalt gel coats and paint.
I personally wouldnt put CLR in a barrel I cared too much about. Acid etches metal.
Calcium Lime Rust, more commonly known as CLR, is a household cleaning product used for dissolving stains, such as calcium, lime, and iron oxide deposits. Its ingredients include water, lactic acid, gluconic acid, lauramine oxide, Propylene Glycol, n-Butyl Ether, and solvents that dissolve cobalt gel coats and paint.
I just used CLR for the first time yesterday to clean some carbon rings/necks. After brushing, I left it for about 10 minutes before patching it out and it worked really well.
Lots of people in this thread use CLR:
Lots of people in this thread use CLR:
I remember reading in a 300 Norma reloading thread, Josh from Patriot Valley, mentioned using brake cleaner to remove a carbon ring. Someone was experiencing pressure issues with reloader 33 and noticed they had a carbon ring. That’s when Josh mentioned brake cleaner. I personally haven’t tried brake cleaner.
Put parts in (I used a mason jar) full of Kroil. Submerge that in a tank full of hot water in a US cleaner (I have a cheap Hornady one that'll do an entire AR upper, brass, etc. that came with a bunch of free bullets).
It won't blast it off like the US cleaner will using solvents and the straight application to the tank. However, the Kroil breaks it up decently and the lighter US activity in the Kroil reduces any chances of damage to finishes and such.
I use it to clean .22 suppressors and basically when they come out any carbon left will either wipe out with a rag or may need a bit of toothbrush action and then it'll wipe out. It'll perfectly clean small handguns and parts that way.
I understand the cleaning solution isn't supposed to hurt finishes or anodized aluminum (the brass cleaner will, gotta use the right cleaner!) but I guess I play it safe using the Kroil. Anyway, more than one way to skin a cat.
Wipe/blow all the Kroil off and clean, finish and lube as usual with CLP, etc. Or leave the Kroil if that's your style.
It won't blast it off like the US cleaner will using solvents and the straight application to the tank. However, the Kroil breaks it up decently and the lighter US activity in the Kroil reduces any chances of damage to finishes and such.
I use it to clean .22 suppressors and basically when they come out any carbon left will either wipe out with a rag or may need a bit of toothbrush action and then it'll wipe out. It'll perfectly clean small handguns and parts that way.
I understand the cleaning solution isn't supposed to hurt finishes or anodized aluminum (the brass cleaner will, gotta use the right cleaner!) but I guess I play it safe using the Kroil. Anyway, more than one way to skin a cat.
Wipe/blow all the Kroil off and clean, finish and lube as usual with CLP, etc. Or leave the Kroil if that's your style.
