Howa 1500 Barreled Action Build

#151
jLorenzo said:
I just ordered a 20" #6 contour 9.5 twist .308 for 230$ from brownells. Going to shoot the .308 for awhile then rebarrel to 6.5 with a Howage barrel nut setup. Pretty set on a B&C target/comp with the adjustable cheek piece but may go with the KRG bravo.
Click to expand...
You do realize that the B&C stock you want plus a DBM from anyone will be more money (and hassle) than a KRG Bravo, right? On top of that the B&C stock + DBM will still lack a bunch of functionality that KRG has as standard.

As someone who's traveled the same exact road, I ask you to learn from my mistakes.

PS the plastic Legacy Sports bottom "metal" takes proprietary magazines and has the mag release in a fucked up place. You do know that, don't you?
 
#154
Does anyone know the maximum COAL using the mini versus short action for .223?

Which magazine allows the longest loading.

I ask because in general, the Howa actions require much longer than SAAMI length to reach the lands.

Does anyone know the distance to lands with the current barrels and if the 1:8 barrel will be the same?
 
#155
OK - it's almost done...

Howa 24" 6.5 Creedmoor Barreled Action from Brownells
KRG Bravo Chassis FDE
Burris XTR II 5-25X50 SCR Reticle in FDE
Burris Signature Tactical 34mm Rings
Burris Xtreme 25MOA rail
BCM MLOK Quick Detach Sling Mount
PMAG

Still need a BiPod...

Howa-Bravo-1.jpg


Howa-Bravo-2.jpg
 
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#158
308pirate said:
And a brake
And a BoltOn QLK bolt knob
Click to expand...

And ammo, reloading dies, H4350, bullets,... the list goes on! o_O

SilencerCo ASR Brake is on the way, just in case I want to add 8" to the barrel. ;)

Still deciding between the QLK bolt knob and having the bolt threaded for a knob.

Looking forward to getting it to the range - I'll probably follow the Howa barrel break in procedure (I hope I have the patience)

Take care,
Bob S.
 
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#161
I had some time off this morning so I started building.

Jl0BylX.jpg

Howa.jpg


I think things went well, HOWEVER once everything was cleaned, assembled, and oiled, the action was VERY stiff. Stiff as in it reminded me of my Mosin.

Is this normal for a new gun and I just have to cycle the action a million times, or should I look closer before taking it to the range this weekend.

I initially had some trouble lining up the magazine so I took everything apart and put it back together, but it's still really stiff.
 
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#162
1500varmint said:
I had some time off this morning so I started building.

Jl0BylX.jpg


I think things went well, HOWEVER once everything was cleaned, assembled, and oiled, the action was VERY stiff. Stiff as in it reminded me of my Mosin.

Is this normal for a new gun and I just have to cycle the action a million times, or should I look closer before taking it to the range this weekend.

I initially had some trouble lining up the magazine so I took everything apart and put it back together, but it's still really stiff.
Click to expand...


I'd start by removing the action form the stock and seeing if that allows the action to move freely.

Next would be to make sure the bolts that hold the scope base down are not too long, or that some loctite didn't get down into the action.

If you took the bolt apart, do it again and make sure all is correct.

Basically, start with the easiest to check - and go from there.

Good luck,
Bob S.
 
#163
Messer said:
I'd start by removing the action form the stock and seeing if that allows the action to move freely.

Next would be to make sure the bolts that hold the scope base down are not too long, or that some loctite didn't get down into the action.

If you took the bolt apart, do it again and make sure all is correct.

Basically, start with the easiest to check - and go from there.

Good luck,
Bob S.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bob.

Yes, I'll be taking it down a few more times to see if there's anything in the way.

To be clear, the stiffness happens when I'm moving the bolt all the way forward (beginning the loading cycle) or all the way back when ejecting an empty case.

From all the way open position it's a smooth push for an inch or so and then it gets stiff (and would actually stop if you're just using fingertips only). You then apply force and it gets by the snug part and goes smoothly into battery.

Same in the other direction.

From all the way closed you can move the bolt lever up, and the first inch or so is smooth until the bolt travels to the same snug spot and you have to use more force to get it fully to the rear to eject the empty.

I haven't pulled out the micrometer yet, but it seems as if there's a bulge of sorts in the bolt stem that drags in the same place when traveling forward and back.

Other than my Mosin this is my first bolt rifle, so I don't know if this is normal out of the box (being brand new with tight tolerances) and it will smooth out over time or if it's a flaw of some kind in the bolt.
 
#164
1500varmint said:
Thanks Bob.

Yes, I'll be taking it down a few more times to see if there's anything in the way.

To be clear, the stiffness happens when I'm moving the bolt all the way forward (beginning the loading cycle) or all the way back when ejecting an empty case.

From all the way open position it's a smooth push for an inch or so and then it gets stiff (and would actually stop if you're just using fingertips only). You then apply force and it gets by the snug part and goes smoothly into battery.

Same in the other direction.

From all the way closed you can move the bolt lever up, and the first inch or so is smooth until the bolt travels to the same snug spot and you have to use more force to get it fully to the rear to eject the empty.

I haven't pulled out the micrometer yet, but it seems as if there's a bulge of sorts in the bolt stem that drags in the same place when traveling forward and back.

Other than my Mosin this is my first bolt rifle, so I don't know if this is normal out of the box (being brand new with tight tolerances) and it will smooth out over time or if it's a flaw of some kind in the bolt.
Click to expand...

I'll bet a shiny new nickel it's the scope base/bolts. Remove the scope & the base and see if it still hangs. (also look for Loctite or a burr at the mount holes)

Bob S.
 
#165
Figured it out.

After taking everything apart...again...it turns out that the problem was with the stock. There's a little channel behind the bolt that's supposed to allow it to travel freely back and forth, but the channel wasn't deep enough so the bolt was rubbing against it. So each time the guide part on the bolt passed it, it made a bit of a ramp, so the line of travel wasn't straight and there was friction against the metal frame.

I used a light tough with my dremmel tool to make the channel big enough for the bolt, and now the action is smooth as silk.

Before:
Howa2.jpg


After:

Howa3.jpg




Thanks again Bob.
 
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#166
Found a problem with my Howa 1500 action in the MDT ESS chassis.

The front action screw was bottoming out before snugging the action.

A washer solved the problem.

Plan to do the same on all action screws from now on.

Good thing to check. Easy to see. The front action screw is properly torqued but moves when force is applied to the action.
 
#167
Hawk in WY said:
Found a problem with my Howa 1500 action in the MDT ESS chassis.

The front action screw was bottoming out before snugging the action.

A washer solved the problem.

Plan to do the same on all action screws from now on.

Good thing to check. Easy to see. The front action screw is properly torqued but moves when force is applied to the action.
Click to expand...

Glad it was an easy fix Hawk.

While I would have preferred a simple drop in and go, I'm glad that I was forces to take the gun apart (SEVERAL times) and closely inspect every part.
 
#168
1500varmint said:
Figured it out.

After taking everything apart...again...it turns out that the problem was with the stock. There's a little channel behind the bolt that's supposed to allow it to travel freely back and forth, but the channel wasn't deep enough so the bolt was rubbing against it. So each time the guide part on the bolt passed it, it made a bit of a ramp, so the line of travel wasn't straight and there was friction against the metal frame.

I used a light tough with my dremmel tool to make the channel big enough for the bolt, and now the action is smooth as silk.

{snip}

Thanks again Bob.
Click to expand...


Glad you got it figured out! (y)

Time to get these puppies out to the range.

Bob S.
 
#170
I am glad to see the Howa 1500's becoming popular on here. They have always been superbly build and very accurate all while being relatively inexpensive.
When i was last active on here a bit before the site switched over to scout there weren't many on this site. Vjjpunisher was one of first and few that i saw that had one.

Back in the day Howa 1500 didn't have many 20 MOA or greater scope bases. But the few it did generally were very tall for what they were. Who makes one of the lowest profile 20 moa scope bases for the Howa 1500? It has been a while since i have been parts hunting for Howa parts so i am not the most up to date.
 
#171
MDStroup said:
I am glad to see the Howa 1500's becoming popular on here. They have always been superbly build and very accurate all while being relatively inexpensive.
When i was last active on here a bit before the site switched over to scout there weren't many on this site. Vjjpunisher was one of first and few that i saw that had one.

Back in the day Howa 1500 didn't have many 20 MOA or greater scope bases. But the few it did generally were very tall for what they were. Who makes one of the lowest profile 20 moa scope bases for the Howa 1500? It has been a while since i have been parts hunting for Howa parts so i am not the most up to date.
Click to expand...

Not sure who makes the lowest. The one in my post above with the KRG FDE Bravo stock is a Burris 25 MOA all steel base. It does not seem high to me. If you want, I can measure it when I get back home.

Bob S.
 
#172
Messer said:
Not sure who makes the lowest. The one in my post above with the KRG FDE Bravo stock is a Burris 25 MOA all steel base. It does not seem high to me. If you want, I can measure it when I get back home.

Bob S.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Honestly i just dont want something super high. Always just trying to get to as close as possible to the bore. But that burris base doesnt seem bad. Didnt even know they made bases.
 
#173
#174
Just got back from the range.

I had a great time and the gun functioned with zero issues.

Howa4.jpg



I know that many people think barrel break-in is a waste of time, but I figured that it couldn't hurt at all, so I cleaned the barrel between the first 10 shots and allowed the barrel to cool before each shot. That's just one more factor I can remove from the equation when I get frustrated about my crappy shooting!

After the 10 break-in shots I tried some 3 shot groups at 100 yards. I was using Federal Lake City 149 grain 7.62 NATO ammo and there were no issues at all feeding or ejecting. This was the only ammo i could grab. I have some 168 grain .308 ammo on order that MAY be here today, so I'll try to get to the range tomrrow to see if that makes a difference.

This is my first precision gun, and my first time trying for groups, so I considered just hitting the paper as a success. I labeled the order of the groups as well as my point of aim.

Howa target.jpg




I was hoping that the gun would magically make me a 1 MOA shooter, but honestly I built it this way so I could do a lot of practice and learn how to shoot, so I think it will work well.

Thanks.
 
#175
It's not a bad start with a new barrel - it will get better as the gun shoots in.

I'd go over all the scope mount & rings screws just to be sure they didn't shoot loose. Action bolts too.

Clean the barrel, and get a few different types of ammo to figure out what it likes.

Now the fun starts - enjoy it.

I'm heading to the Richmond Gun Show tomorrow - hope to get a few things so I can get some range time in the next few days.

Have a good weekend,
Bob S.
 
#176
Messer said:
It's not a bad start with a new barrel - it will get better as the gun shoots in.

I'd go over all the scope mount & rings screws just to be sure they didn't shoot loose. Action bolts too.

Clean the barrel, and get a few different types of ammo to figure out what it likes.

Now the fun starts - enjoy it.

I'm heading to the Richmond Gun Show tomorrow - hope to get a few things so I can get some range time in the next few days.

Have a good weekend,
Bob S.
Click to expand...

Richmond as in Richmond Virginia?

1500varmint said:
Just got back from the range.

I had a great time and the gun functioned with zero issues.

View attachment 6936105


I know that many people think barrel break-in is a waste of time, but I figured that it couldn't hurt at all, so I cleaned the barrel between the first 10 shots and allowed the barrel to cool before each shot. That's just one more factor I can remove from the equation when I get frustrated about my crappy shooting!

After the 10 break-in shots I tried some 3 shot groups at 100 yards. I was using Federal Lake City 149 grain 7.62 NATO ammo and there were no issues at all feeding or ejecting. This was the only ammo i could grab. I have some 168 grain .308 ammo on order that MAY be here today, so I'll try to get to the range tomrrow to see if that makes a difference.

This is my first precision gun, and my first time trying for groups, so I considered just hitting the paper as a success. I labeled the order of the groups as well as my point of aim.

View attachment 6936109



I was hoping that the gun would magically make me a 1 MOA shooter, but honestly I built it this way so I could do a lot of practice and learn how to shoot, so I think it will work well.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Great shooting! Don't be discouraged! You were shooting the equivalent of M80 ball ammo, that is pretty good for that ammo.
 
#181
jackalope - that's a fine-looking paint job! Been thinking about what I could do with a black B&C #2015 stock (same shape as the #2093 on your friend's Howa) on my custom M700 in 7-08 Improved 30*. I put a new 'brown' Athlon Ares ETR on it, so need to get some CeraKote C-series air dry in burnt bronze for the rings, then figure out how to dress-up that plain black one of mine. I bought the textured black thinking it'd be easier to do something like GAP camo on it, but not so sure now. The dark brown like you started with was a new color for them last year, and it made a great basis for your paint job.
 
#182
1500varmint said:
Just got back from the range.

I had a great time and the gun functioned with zero issues.

View attachment 6936105



View attachment 6936109



I was hoping that the gun would magically make me a 1 MOA shooter, but honestly I built it this way so I could do a lot of practice and learn how to shoot, so I think it will work well.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Well a sub-moa gun won’t make you a sub-moa shooter, but it does let you know that what needs work is you.

First, pop that bipod out to the first notch. Those feet are sprung and that’s not helping you. I bet you see an immediate improvement from that.

Good luck!
 
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#185
Frankr said:
Will they be the mini action or short action for the 1:8?

Any idea if KRG is planning a bravo for the mini action
Click to expand...

there are several chassis options at the moment. You can actually but just the chassis from the Howa 1500 mini chassis rifle from brownells, just can't find it at the moment.

Here is the Brownells version:
Brownells Mini chassis

MDT makes their LSS and LSS-XL for the mini.
 
#187
1500varmint said:
Just got back from the range.

I had a great time and the gun functioned with zero issues.

View attachment 6936105


I know that many people think barrel break-in is a waste of time, but I figured that it couldn't hurt at all, so I cleaned the barrel between the first 10 shots and allowed the barrel to cool before each shot. That's just one more factor I can remove from the equation when I get frustrated about my crappy shooting!

After the 10 break-in shots I tried some 3 shot groups at 100 yards. I was using Federal Lake City 149 grain 7.62 NATO ammo and there were no issues at all feeding or ejecting. This was the only ammo i could grab. I have some 168 grain .308 ammo on order that MAY be here today, so I'll try to get to the range tomrrow to see if that makes a difference.

This is my first precision gun, and my first time trying for groups, so I considered just hitting the paper as a success. I labeled the order of the groups as well as my point of aim.

View attachment 6936109



I was hoping that the gun would magically make me a 1 MOA shooter, but honestly I built it this way so I could do a lot of practice and learn how to shoot, so I think it will work well.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

That's about as good as you can expect from the ammo you're using. Match ammo that the rifle likes (it won't like all of them so be patient) will show you something else.
 
#188
RichS said:
I asked KRG and they said no. However, B&C is considering making stocks for them and McMillan does.
Click to expand...

The guy who designs stocks at B&C is a good friend & customer of mine; since DDC is just over an hour's drive from me, if I need a stock from them, I drive down to get it. I asked about doing the inlet for the Howa Mini a couple of years ago when I started re-barreling them, but he wasn't sure at that point that it was worth the time & trouble to do a mold & have aluminum bedding blocks made for them. I'll have to hit him up about this the next time we talk. Their #2093 stock for the 1500 Howa SA is a really good stock, I've used several of them for 6.5CM bbl'd actions - it takes no more than 5 min with a Dremel to do the inlet for PTG Stealth DBM on these stocks.

So I hit up both Manners & McMillan about doing the inlet. Tom Manners spoke with me and asked that I sell him one of my Mini bbl'd actions in 6.5 Grendel so he could make the decision, while McMillan initially wanted $500 to model the custom inlet for the Mini. I sold Tom the bbl'd action, and put the McMillan thing on my "like hell" backlist. Meanwhile, bought a Boyds ProVarmint w/adjustable cheekpiece (they used to call it the tacticool model) for another Mini 6.5 Grendel hvy bbl, which fit well & looked good. Sold it before I ever tried any of the Hornady Black ammo I'd bought for it. Meanwhile, I called McMillan again, and they backed off from the $500 inlet charge, saying they'd received a sizable number of requests for the Mini, then asked that I send them a bbl'd action to model the inlet off of. About 6mo later, I received a Sako Varmint pattern stock in molded-in desert ambush for the Mini. It was a good fit & shot well with a Mini that I'd re-barreled for 6RAT, so I called & ordered a Game Scout for another Mini build. This one evidently fell through the cracks, as it took several phone calls & over a year to get it & the bbl'd action back. However, I think it was worth the wait, as I like the shape & fit of the Game Scout stock better than the Sako Varmint for prone shooting.

The one big drawback of the Mini is the plastic detachable mag bottom 'metal' they come with. The rear action screw hole split on mine when I torqued it to 45 in/lbs. Since then, DIP has come out with replacement aluminum DBM that fits & works great; price is $100. I've got one of these units on the Mini in the Game Scout, and would never go back to the OEM plastic POS. Hopefully, Howa & LSI see the error of their ways & start using either DIP or their own design metal DBM. I'm just finishing up a 20 cal Bartlein 1-9tw bbl for another Mini in 20 Tactical - the finished bbl'd action will be CeraKoted in Sniper Grey & bedded in a Boyds ProVarmint in their blue/grey laminate, with laser stippling & adjustable cheekpiece.
 
#189
MDStroup said:
there are several chassis options at the moment. You can actually but just the chassis from the Howa 1500 mini chassis rifle from brownells, just can't find it at the moment.

Here is the Brownells version:
Brownells Mini chassis

MDT makes their LSS and LSS-XL for the mini.
Click to expand...

I finally was able to handle a LSS chassis (on a Mossberg MVP) at the shop today. I hated it. I need something with an actual fore end
 
#190
RichS - No doubt some of the chassis designs on the market are quite good, others not so much. I built myself a couple of Gary Eliseo's R5 & RTS tubeguns several years ago with Pearce TG actions - they were so similar to the chassis that are available today that I think they qualify to be in the same class. I shot them OK in NRA Hi Power matches, though running a stick shift in the rapids was quite a switch from the AR15 service & match rifles I'd shot before. I thought about making a few changes to the buttstock of the RTS & running it in PRS matches - it was a hammer with its 28" Krieger in 6.5x47. But I'd already built a couple of LR prone rifles on trued M700s in McMillan A5 stocks, and they just felt better to me than the tubegun did. I see so many guys running chassis rifles today that I'm always wondering if it's a matter of preference, price, or availabilty - price point doesn't appear to be that much different between conventional tactical stocks or chassis, and lots of suppliers carry a good inventory of chassis. So it must be mostly personal preference. For me, it probably comes down to the appearance of a nice molded in camo scheme on a conventional stock vs. a rig that reminds me more of a bumper jack than a rifle. Whatever - the popularity of the chassis rigs seem to be at least equal to that of a conventionally stocked rifle, so maybe (probably?) there's something else I'm missing.
 
#191
I'm one who has never found a conventionally stocked rifle that would fit me worth a crap, and I've had stocks from the very best (including Master Class Stocks).

The moment I laid behind a KRG Xray chassis it was an epiphany.
 
#192
308pirate said:
I'm one who has never found a conventionally stocked rifle that would fit me worth a crap, and I've had stocks from the very best (including Master Class Stocks).

The moment I laid behind a KRG Xray chassis it was an epiphany.
Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't judging all chassis. The XRay and Bravo both look ideal to me. I just found the super thin "fore end" on the LSS awkward. Granted, if you only shoot from a bipod, I guess it makes no diff.
 
#193
MDStroup said:
Well shit! I am in Chesapeake. Let me know if there is anything good at that show.
Click to expand...

Well - I guess it depends on what you are looking for. For me it was a "Eh" show - bought a couple of boxes of 6.5 CR ammo to start the break-in process, and a nice Abalone necklace for my wife.

Lots of AR's, AK's, Glock's, etc... nothing to jump up and down for. Kenzie's Optics was there with a fair selection of Vortex scopes.

Hit Green Top on the way out of town for some small stuff (cleaning supplies) and headed West on 64. I saw more VASP folks today than I have ever seen before - heavy enforcement day!

Take care,
Bob S.
 
#194
RichS said:
Don't get me wrong, I wasn't judging all chassis. The XRay and Bravo both look ideal to me. I just found the super thin "fore end" on the LSS awkward. Granted, if you only shoot from a bipod, I guess it makes no diff.
Click to expand...
Judge away. We need to do that because at the end of the day what matters to an individual is that he's pleased with how he spent his money.

I was just giving an example of how we're all different
 
#195
Yep, Master Class stocks are right up there with the best of the rest, no doubt about that. Alex Sitman's stocks were the favorite of German Salazar, who had put up & maintained a series of HP & smallbore shooting websites on the old Delphi network. I'd visited with him for years on his Florida HP Shooting site, but didn't meet him until I drove out to Phoenix to shoot the Berger LR SW Nationals in 2009. I always found German's advice helpful, and appreciated his help in squading me with three really fine fellows for the duration of that first Berger LR match - guys who were not only great company, but also gave excellent pit service.

All but one of my prone stocks are from Robertson Composites, in their H&H pattern, which fits me pretty well. Have shot a lot of NRA bullseye prone Hi Power mid- & long-range matches with them, and never had much of a problem getting comfortable behind the H&H for the duration of a 22rd match, or more rounds if it was a 1000yd prone match with unlimited sighters. The one stock I own that's not from Canada is a McGee prone in their Trudy pattern, named after Trudy Fay. They're among the first people I met when I started shooting XC HP matches, and became good friends & prone shooting mentors. They'd bought some really nice English walnut blanks, and wanted me to pick one out for a BAT 3L rifle in 6.5x47. The blank I chose looked good on the outside, but turned out to be really exceptional once they'd run it through their duplicator, and is even more beautiful since Doan Trevor finished it for me. As I get older, some of my rifles are probably going to be sold, but this one won't be leaving my safe until I'm gone.
Individual tastes really do matter when it comes to rifle stocks... The M52 Sporter below the BAT is the 2nd stock that Doan did for me...it's another keeper.
 

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#196
flatland1 said:
The guy who designs stocks at B&C is a good friend & customer of mine; since DDC is just over an hour's drive from me, if I need a stock from them, I drive down to get it. I asked about doing the inlet for the Howa Mini a couple of years ago when I started re-barreling them, but he wasn't sure at that point that it was worth the time & trouble to do a mold & have aluminum bedding blocks made for them. I'll have to hit him up about this the next time we talk. Their #2093 stock for the 1500 Howa SA is a really good stock, I've used several of them for 6.5CM bbl'd actions - it takes no more than 5 min with a Dremel to do the inlet for PTG Stealth DBM on these stocks.

So I hit up both Manners & McMillan about doing the inlet. Tom Manners spoke with me and asked that I sell him one of my Mini bbl'd actions in 6.5 Grendel so he could make the decision, while McMillan initially wanted $500 to model the custom inlet for the Mini. I sold Tom the bbl'd action, and put the McMillan thing on my "like hell" backlist. Meanwhile, bought a Boyds ProVarmint w/adjustable cheekpiece (they used to call it the tacticool model) for another Mini 6.5 Grendel hvy bbl, which fit well & looked good. Sold it before I ever tried any of the Hornady Black ammo I'd bought for it. Meanwhile, I called McMillan again, and they backed off from the $500 inlet charge, saying they'd received a sizable number of requests for the Mini, then asked that I send them a bbl'd action to model the inlet off of. About 6mo later, I received a Sako Varmint pattern stock in molded-in desert ambush for the Mini. It was a good fit & shot well with a Mini that I'd re-barreled for 6RAT, so I called & ordered a Game Scout for another Mini build. This one evidently fell through the cracks, as it took several phone calls & over a year to get it & the bbl'd action back. However, I think it was worth the wait, as I like the shape & fit of the Game Scout stock better than the Sako Varmint for prone shooting.

The one big drawback of the Mini is the plastic detachable mag bottom 'metal' they come with. The rear action screw hole split on mine when I torqued it to 45 in/lbs. Since then, DIP has come out with replacement aluminum DBM that fits & works great; price is $100. I've got one of these units on the Mini in the Game Scout, and would never go back to the OEM plastic POS. Hopefully, Howa & LSI see the error of their ways & start using either DIP or their own design metal DBM. I'm just finishing up a 20 cal Bartlein 1-9tw bbl for another Mini in 20 Tactical - the finished bbl'd action will be CeraKoted in Sniper Grey & bedded in a Boyds ProVarmint in their blue/grey laminate, with laser stippling & adjustable cheekpiece.
Click to expand...

CDI precision Howa 1500 mini DBM

Here you go. Bottem metal for the Hoea 1500 mini and it allows the use of AICS magazines.
 
#197
I finally got some time after work today break-in the Howa. I followed the Howa directions - cleaning after every shot for the first 10 rounds, with 5 minutes between shots. Then cleaning between every 2 shots for the next 10 shots (I kept the 5 minute between shots).

Here are the first 20 shots - you can see the first 6 are low right, then I started to adjust the scope. Somewhere in this, I noticed the scope was moving with recoil, so I had to adjust a little - but the gun did better than I expected.

Howa-breakin1.jpg


After each shot, it took about 5 patches to get it clean - used Shooters Choice...

Howa-breakin2.jpg



I then put 5 rounds into a new target right before sunset - too bad I pulled one low.

Howa-breakin4.jpg


Shots were from a bench at 100 yards - sandbag under the forearm, just me behind it. ;)

This is with Sellier & Bellot 140 Gr. - cheapest ammo I could find. I think it shows promise

Take care,
Bob S.
 
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#199
Dittos on nice shooting. I'd say you have reason to expect good results at longer range, especially with some better quality ammo, and you stand to benefit from the experience gained in the process of breaking in your new bbl.
 
#200
MDStroup said:
I am glad to see the Howa 1500's becoming popular on here. They have always been superbly build and very accurate all while being relatively inexpensive.
When i was last active on here a bit before the site switched over to scout there weren't many on this site. Vjjpunisher was one of first and few that i saw that had one.

Back in the day Howa 1500 didn't have many 20 MOA or greater scope bases. But the few it did generally were very tall for what they were. Who makes one of the lowest profile 20 moa scope bases for the Howa 1500? It has been a while since i have been parts hunting for Howa parts so i am not the most up to date.
Click to expand...

MDT makes a 20 MOA base. Comes with a recoil lug. Works fine for me.
 
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