Impact Precision Actions

What do you mean when you say it gets hung up?

Do you mean that it feels stiff to close the bolt, or do you mean that the round won't feed into the chamber period?

The bolt will always be a little stiff to close because it's a 26 pound firing spring and a 50/50 cock on open/cock on close action. As far as hunting goes I've always just had one in the chamber with the safety on as soon as I was in the area where I expected to see any animals.
 
Is running the bolt hard standard procedure on these or is something wrong with my setup? If I try to chamber a round slowly it will get hung up every time.
I'm going to hazard a guess that the feed lips on your mag need a slight adjustment. I've had other actions do this (my Impact with 6.5CM barrel does not) and it has been resolved with slight bending/tweaking of mag lips to get proper attitude of bullet as it is stripped from magazine. The front 1/4"-3/8" or so of the feed lips may need to be flared open slightly to let the cartidge pop upwards faster.

I'd slowly cycle a dummy round to see where it's hanging up. If it's the tip of round on feed ramp, then adjusting lips as described above should help. If it's sticky while still in mag (not touching any part of action except bottom of bolt, then it's also likely the mag is a bit too tight and could be flared slightly front to back.

Note of caution: a little adjustment goes a long ways.

Side note: sounds silly but if you are running a ocular lens cover, check that you are not getting any contact on scope cap/ocular. I've had this with my setup and though something was binding until I noticed it making *slight* contact and simply rotated cap out of the way and good to go.
 
I'm going to hazard a guess that the feed lips on your mag need a slight adjustment. I've had other actions do this (my Impact with 6.5CM barrel does not) and it has been resolved with slight bending/tweaking of mag lips to get proper attitude of bullet as it is stripped from magazine. The front 1/4"-3/8" or so of the feed lips may need to be flared open slightly to let the cartidge pop upwards faster.

I'd slowly cycle a dummy round to see where it's hanging up. If it's the tip of round on feed ramp, then adjusting lips as described above should help. If it's sticky while still in mag (not touching any part of action except bottom of bolt, then it's also likely the mag is a bit too tight and could be flared slightly front to back.

Note of caution: a little adjustment goes a long ways.

Side note: sounds silly but if you are running a ocular lens cover, check that you are not getting any contact on scope cap/ocular. I've had this with my setup and though something was binding until I noticed it making *slight* contact and simply rotated cap out of the way and good to go.
Thanks, I will play with this tonight and see if that’s all it needs.
 
I emailed impact Wednesday night at 1030, not expecting a reply at that hour, about trigger hangers and top sears for bix n Andy TacSport pro 2 stage in the impact action. To my surprise I got a almost instant response. He looked into it for me gave me his recommendation and also told me who else to contact about this combination. What great customer service. Great product and great service.
 
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I emailed impact Wednesday night at 1030, not expecting a reply at that hour, about trigger hangers and top sears for bix n Andy TacSport pro 2 stage in the impact action. To my surprise I got a almost instant response. He looked into it for me gave me his recommendation and also told me who else to contact about this combination. What great customer service. Great product and great service.
They truly are an awesome company and lead the way with customer service.

What did they end up saying about the B&A trigger sear? 3.6mm? I’m about to go this direction too but haven’t reached out yet.
 
They truly are an awesome company and lead the way with customer service.

What did they end up saying about the B&A trigger sear? 3.6mm? I’m about to go this direction too but haven’t reached out yet.
O hanger and the standard sear is what he said. He said he contacted a few people and that is what they are using. He also told me to call otm and that they set up more impacts with that trigger than anyone else he knew of. I called them and they told me the same thing,0 hanger and 3.8 mm dear. On the bix n Andy site they have a video on measuring for top sear. When mine gets back from Lri I will measure for top sear. I was mostly concerned about what trigger hanger they recommended.
 
O hanger and the standard sear is what he said. He said he contacted a few people and that is what they are using. He also told me to call otm and that they set up more impacts with that trigger than anyone else he knew of. I called them and they told me the same thing,0 hanger and 3.8 mm dear. On the bix n Andy site they have a video on measuring for top sear. When mine gets back from Lri I will measure for top sear. I was mostly concerned about what trigger hanger they recommended.
Yeah I’ve seen the video. I measured mine and according to their chart it says mine will need a 3.6mm which is their low sear. Mine measures about 0.158”. I guess the standard/medium would work but seems like the low would be more appropriate. Let me know what yours measures when you get it back. I’d assume they’re pretty close just because Impacts are held to such tight specs.
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Yeah I’ve seen the video. I measured mine and according to their chart it says mine will need a 3.6mm which is their low sear. Mine measures about 0.158”. I guess the standard/medium would work but seems like the low would be more appropriate. Let me know what yours measures when you get it back. I’d assume they’re pretty close just because Impacts are held to such tight specs. View attachment 7080317
Will do. As fast as Lri is I may have it back this week
 
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O hanger and the standard sear is what he said. He said he contacted a few people and that is what they are using. He also told me to call otm and that they set up more impacts with that trigger than anyone else he knew of. I called them and they told me the same thing,0 hanger and 3.8 mm dear.
If OTM referred to you as dear, their C/S is pretty good too.:ROFLMAO:
 
So finally got the gauges in torqued the barrel to 85ft/lbs closes on a go. But also closes on a no go. Should i increase the torque to 100ft/lbs?

Add a piece of scotch tape to the No-Go and see if it closes on that. If it does, you should send the barrel back with your action to have it properly headspaced.
 
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Add a piece of scotch tape to the No-Go and see if it closes on that. If it does, you should send the barrel back with your action to have it properly headspaced.
IMO if he reload it wont matter match..its just slight version of improved case if few thousand longer headspace..if shoots factory ammo then ita diff story
 
Add a piece of scotch tape to the No-Go and see if it closes on that. If it does, you should send the barrel back with your action to have it properly headspaced.

Gotcha will try. I torqued to 100ft/lbs and it still closed.
IMO if he reload it wont matter match..its just slight version of improved case if few thousand longer headspace..if shoots factory ammo then ita diff story

I do reload and admittedly my tempest closes on a no go and i haven't had any problems with it. But when i contact LRI they said it was likely due to disassembly from when it was DLCd or the breeching ring was polished.
 
Gotcha will try. I torqued to 100ft/lbs and it still closed.


I do reload and admittedly my tempest closes on a no go and i haven't had any problems with it. But when i contact LRI they said it was likely due to disassembly from when it was DLCd or the breeching ring was polished.
Cartridge will fireform with your chamber spec regardless..theres 2 (possibly) issues only...
First: if you choose or strictly shoot factory ammo you will lose fps that extra gap on head space will absorb pressure and will overwork factory brass that known to be undersized..
Second: if headspace to long your sizing die might CAM before you start bumping that shoulder..but both are minor and its easy fix
 
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Gotcha gonna sound stupid here, but should i be wrapping the entire no go? Or just the near the case web? Maybe i'm doing this wrong.

One strip at the back of the case. Like just the very bottom of the no go gauge where the primer would be. Do not wrap around the case.
 
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One strip at the back of the case. Like just the very bottom of the no go gauge where the primer would be. Do not wrap around the case.

Gotcha evidently my understanding of headspace is juvenile at best.

Update

Starts the cam over with a piece of scotch tape but wont close. So am i GTG i guess?
 
Gotcha evidently my understanding of headspace is juvenile at best.

Update

Starts the cam over with a piece of scotch tape but wont close. So am i GTG i guess?

It’s prob safe but the head spacing is more than I would like. I like to see it close on one piece of tape on a go gauge but not on two. It will definitely not close at all or even cam over on a no-go by itself.
 
Here’s a dumb question, did you use anti-seize on the threads?

Yes i did. I watched a decent bit of videos from smiths to the recent MPA video Ryan put out which is why i ordered the go gauge.


It’s prob safe but the head spacing is more than I would like. I like to see it close on one piece of tape on a go gauge but not on two. It will definitely not close at all or even cam over on a no-go by itself.

This is one piece of tape starts the cam over but wont close on a no go. It closes completely on a no go without tape.
 
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Man I think it’s up to you on what you want to do. It’s probably fine but the head spacing is pretty darn generous. If/when you get a new barrel you may have to resize that brass way back down to get it to chamber if the head spacing is tighter. Not a big deal just something to keep in mind.
 
Man I think it’s up to you on what you want to do. It’s probably fine but the head spacing is pretty darn generous. If/when you get a new barrel you may have to resize that brass way back down to get it to chamber if the head spacing is tighter. Not a big deal just something to keep in mind.

Yeah i dealt with something similar with my tempest but in a bit of reverse. I bought second hand brass off a member here who’s chamber was evidently way different then mine and had to run all those x47 pieces through a gutted 308 sizing die to hit the case web so it would chamber. Then the bighorn i had chambered i wanted to match to the tempest so i wouldn’t have to adjust my sizing die. That’s when i realized i could close my tempest on a no go. Granted i never tried the tape method. This is technically a hunting/backup build but i haven’t found a PRS2 yet and the amg isn’t in either so im not in an incredible rush. I’ll contact the smith and have him walk me through it again just to ensure I’m not doing anything wrong and then see what he wants to do.

In the meantime i just ordered a magnum BF and really want to get my 7 SS spun up now that DSTs wait times are 2 weeks at the moment.
 
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Looks like a nice action, but the Nucleus price of 850 for me was a no brainer and impossible to pass up. I've never even heard of Impact till now... Looks like the custom action market is starting to get more players and more competitive, if the price was more around the 1000 dollar price I think that would help it alot.

I've decided to just wait for a mausingfield, the nucleus is also a no brainer from what I hear. I'm sure the impact is great, but after seeing how the mausingfield work I just wanted one. 12 weeks, grrrrrrr

The guys at impact seem like great guys, very accommodating. Very polite.
 
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I had a stupid time trying virgin brass with tape and the go gauge wasn't much better, I borrowed the no go also and setting the headspace was super easy.

Lesson was/Spend the money on the proper tools.
So all this jag about impact action dont need the action to spin that barrel are all lies? And still better to ship action to your smith?
For a shoulder barrel?
 
So all this jag about impact action dont need the action to spin that barrel are all lies? And still better to ship action to your smith?
For a shoulder barrel?

My gunsmith has had more than a handful of Impact actions and the measured headspace has all been within .001" of each other. I think after you get a lot of rounds on them you might get some wear and the headspace may change a bit but when new they are pretty much identical.
 
So all this jag about impact action dont need the action to spin that barrel are all lies? And still better to ship action to your smith?
For a shoulder barrel?

No, I should have mentioned for a prefit. Mine is a Mausingfield.

I'm going prefit from now on, not paying $800-ish for a shouldered barrel anymore.

Just me but I'm not a patient person. Some of us are learning as we go, seems like every time I try a short cut it bites me. At least with a prefit I have control of head space. Too short or long is easy to adjust.
 
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I think after you get a lot of rounds on them you might get some wear and the headspace may change a bit but when new they are pretty much identical.
If your head space changes over time then you got a fucked up rifle. The barrel chamber should not erode or increase its distance from the bolt face. If its the lugs that are wearing that much then youve still got problems.
 
If your head space changes over time then you got a fucked up rifle. The barrel chamber should not erode or increase its distance from the bolt face. If its the lugs that are wearing that much then youve still got problems.

nah...put enough barrels on 1 action and enough rounds...then remeasure it

seen it on multiple AIs

stuff moves
 
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My experience is that quality actions will wear and set back the first few barrels. Then stabilize. When we shot old war time production Mauser actions they kept setting back until you quit or they came apart.
Mostly shooting 22-250’s and .220 Swift’s.
 
If you have not already done so, Read Stuteville's post #312 here, page 7:
( https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/impact-precision-actions.6873075/page-7#post-7337360)
And see if you still have questions about the reliability of it.


im curious if something has changed with the way they are cutting them since this post

my original impact was an AICS cut, had tate cut it for AWs after about 6 months

im almost positive that both AWs and AICS mags work with no binding **after its properly set up with the right mag height**

i will check it later this evening, but after it was cut for AWs i think i checked the AICS and they still performed the same in case i had any issues with the AWs

been running the AWs since last Dec with zero issues...its just not a drop in for chassis/dbm's and requires proper fitting...just milled a new foundation to set the mag height correctly for AWs yesterday...ill test it out with AICS mags tonight
 
My experience is that quality actions will wear and set back the first few barrels. Then stabilize. When we shot old war time production Mauser actions they kept setting back until you quit or they came apart.
Mostly shooting 22-250’s and .220 Swift’s.
nah...put enough barrels on 1 action and enough rounds...then remeasure it

seen it on multiple AIs

stuff moves
Really? Enough wear to fail a no go gauge?
I have heard that AIs will close on a no go and not close a field and that they are cut that way from the beginning to ensure reliability in the worst conditions.
But i have never heard that they wear in that much. News to me if so.

In anycase, this new impact of 5rwills is new, not worn in.
 
If your head space changes over time then you got a fucked up rifle. The barrel chamber should not erode or increase its distance from the bolt face. If its the lugs that are wearing that much then youve still got problems.

I was talking with Ken @ GAP and he said his Defiance wore about .004 after 20k rounds.
 
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one of the AWs i know of was also in the 15-20k range and had changed .006 from new, based on brass measurements and the same smiths measurement

but yea, it takes a while...not on something new