When I’m hunting and trying to keep noise down. Probably doesn’t make much difference but it’s a habit I’ve had for years.Why do you chamber a round slowly?
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When I’m hunting and trying to keep noise down. Probably doesn’t make much difference but it’s a habit I’ve had for years.Why do you chamber a round slowly?
I have mine torqued at 85lbs. I’ve read anywhere from 35-100 though. I might have just pulled that out my ass
What caliber and mags are you running?Is running the bolt hard standard procedure on these or is something wrong with my setup? If I try to chamber a round slowly it will get hung up every time.
I'm going to hazard a guess that the feed lips on your mag need a slight adjustment. I've had other actions do this (my Impact with 6.5CM barrel does not) and it has been resolved with slight bending/tweaking of mag lips to get proper attitude of bullet as it is stripped from magazine. The front 1/4"-3/8" or so of the feed lips may need to be flared open slightly to let the cartidge pop upwards faster.Is running the bolt hard standard procedure on these or is something wrong with my setup? If I try to chamber a round slowly it will get hung up every time.
Thanks, I will play with this tonight and see if that’s all it needs.I'm going to hazard a guess that the feed lips on your mag need a slight adjustment. I've had other actions do this (my Impact with 6.5CM barrel does not) and it has been resolved with slight bending/tweaking of mag lips to get proper attitude of bullet as it is stripped from magazine. The front 1/4"-3/8" or so of the feed lips may need to be flared open slightly to let the cartidge pop upwards faster.
I'd slowly cycle a dummy round to see where it's hanging up. If it's the tip of round on feed ramp, then adjusting lips as described above should help. If it's sticky while still in mag (not touching any part of action except bottom of bolt, then it's also likely the mag is a bit too tight and could be flared slightly front to back.
Note of caution: a little adjustment goes a long ways.
Side note: sounds silly but if you are running a ocular lens cover, check that you are not getting any contact on scope cap/ocular. I've had this with my setup and though something was binding until I noticed it making *slight* contact and simply rotated cap out of the way and good to go.
They truly are an awesome company and lead the way with customer service.I emailed impact Wednesday night at 1030, not expecting a reply at that hour, about trigger hangers and top sears for bix n Andy TacSport pro 2 stage in the impact action. To my surprise I got a almost instant response. He looked into it for me gave me his recommendation and also told me who else to contact about this combination. What great customer service. Great product and great service.
O hanger and the standard sear is what he said. He said he contacted a few people and that is what they are using. He also told me to call otm and that they set up more impacts with that trigger than anyone else he knew of. I called them and they told me the same thing,0 hanger and 3.8 mm dear. On the bix n Andy site they have a video on measuring for top sear. When mine gets back from Lri I will measure for top sear. I was mostly concerned about what trigger hanger they recommended.They truly are an awesome company and lead the way with customer service.
What did they end up saying about the B&A trigger sear? 3.6mm? I’m about to go this direction too but haven’t reached out yet.
Yeah I’ve seen the video. I measured mine and according to their chart it says mine will need a 3.6mm which is their low sear. Mine measures about 0.158”. I guess the standard/medium would work but seems like the low would be more appropriate. Let me know what yours measures when you get it back. I’d assume they’re pretty close just because Impacts are held to such tight specs.O hanger and the standard sear is what he said. He said he contacted a few people and that is what they are using. He also told me to call otm and that they set up more impacts with that trigger than anyone else he knew of. I called them and they told me the same thing,0 hanger and 3.8 mm dear. On the bix n Andy site they have a video on measuring for top sear. When mine gets back from Lri I will measure for top sear. I was mostly concerned about what trigger hanger they recommended.
Will do. As fast as Lri is I may have it back this weekYeah I’ve seen the video. I measured mine and according to their chart it says mine will need a 3.6mm which is their low sear. Mine measures about 0.158”. I guess the standard/medium would work but seems like the low would be more appropriate. Let me know what yours measures when you get it back. I’d assume they’re pretty close just because Impacts are held to such tight specs. View attachment 7080317
If OTM referred to you as dear, their C/S is pretty good too.O hanger and the standard sear is what he said. He said he contacted a few people and that is what they are using. He also told me to call otm and that they set up more impacts with that trigger than anyone else he knew of. I called them and they told me the same thing,0 hanger and 3.8 mm dear.
So finally got the gauges in torqued the barrel to 85ft/lbs closes on a go. But also closes on a no go. Should i increase the torque to 100ft/lbs?
IMO if he reload it wont matter match..its just slight version of improved case if few thousand longer headspace..if shoots factory ammo then ita diff storyAdd a piece of scotch tape to the No-Go and see if it closes on that. If it does, you should send the barrel back with your action to have it properly headspaced.
Add a piece of scotch tape to the No-Go and see if it closes on that. If it does, you should send the barrel back with your action to have it properly headspaced.
IMO if he reload it wont matter match..its just slight version of improved case if few thousand longer headspace..if shoots factory ammo then ita diff story
Cartridge will fireform with your chamber spec regardless..theres 2 (possibly) issues only...Gotcha will try. I torqued to 100ft/lbs and it still closed.
I do reload and admittedly my tempest closes on a no go and i haven't had any problems with it. But when i contact LRI they said it was likely due to disassembly from when it was DLCd or the breeching ring was polished.
Added a piece of tape and it still closed this is torqued to 100ft/lbs.
Per scotch is 002 try one moreAdded a piece of tape and it still closed this is torqued to 100ft/lbs.
Per scotch is 002 try one more
Gotcha gonna sound stupid here, but should i be wrapping the entire no go? Or just the near the case web? Maybe i'm doing this wrong.
lte82 beat me to it.Gotcha gonna sound stupid here, but should i be wrapping the entire no go? Or just the near the case web? Maybe i'm doing this wrong.
One strip at the back of the case. Like just the very bottom of the no go gauge where the primer would be. Do not wrap around the case.
Gotcha evidently my understanding of headspace is juvenile at best.
Update
Starts the cam over with a piece of scotch tape but wont close. So am i GTG i guess?
Here’s a dumb question, did you use anti-seize on the threads?
It’s prob safe but the head spacing is more than I would like. I like to see it close on one piece of tape on a go gauge but not on two. It will definitely not close at all or even cam over on a no-go by itself.
It closes completely on a no go without tape.
Man I think it’s up to you on what you want to do. It’s probably fine but the head spacing is pretty darn generous. If/when you get a new barrel you may have to resize that brass way back down to get it to chamber if the head spacing is tighter. Not a big deal just something to keep in mind.
Looks like a nice action, but the Nucleus price of 850 for me was a no brainer and impossible to pass up. I've never even heard of Impact till now... Looks like the custom action market is starting to get more players and more competitive, if the price was more around the 1000 dollar price I think that would help it alot.
So all this jag about impact action dont need the action to spin that barrel are all lies? And still better to ship action to your smith?I had a stupid time trying virgin brass with tape and the go gauge wasn't much better, I borrowed the no go also and setting the headspace was super easy.
Lesson was/Spend the money on the proper tools.
So all this jag about impact action dont need the action to spin that barrel are all lies? And still better to ship action to your smith?
For a shoulder barrel?
So all this jag about impact action dont need the action to spin that barrel are all lies? And still better to ship action to your smith?
For a shoulder barrel?
So all this jag about impact action dont need the action to spin that barrel are all lies? And still better to ship action to your smith?
For a shoulder barrel?
I just got a call from rober gradous and shipping mine today..just received my action yesterday...hmm hope no issues when putting them togetherI ordered mine from Altus and all I did was torque it up. No issues
If your head space changes over time then you got a fucked up rifle. The barrel chamber should not erode or increase its distance from the bolt face. If its the lugs that are wearing that much then youve still got problems.I think after you get a lot of rounds on them you might get some wear and the headspace may change a bit but when new they are pretty much identical.
If your head space changes over time then you got a fucked up rifle. The barrel chamber should not erode or increase its distance from the bolt face. If its the lugs that are wearing that much then youve still got problems.
If you have not already done so, Read Stuteville's post #312 here, page 7:
( https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/impact-precision-actions.6873075/page-7#post-7337360)
And see if you still have questions about the reliability of it.
My experience is that quality actions will wear and set back the first few barrels. Then stabilize. When we shot old war time production Mauser actions they kept setting back until you quit or they came apart.
Mostly shooting 22-250’s and .220 Swift’s.
Really? Enough wear to fail a no go gauge?nah...put enough barrels on 1 action and enough rounds...then remeasure it
seen it on multiple AIs
stuff moves
If your head space changes over time then you got a fucked up rifle. The barrel chamber should not erode or increase its distance from the bolt face. If its the lugs that are wearing that much then youve still got problems.
one of the AWs i know of was also in the 15-20k range and had changed .006 from new, based on brass measurements and the same smiths measurement
but yea, it takes a while...not on something new