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I only read page one, but if you have vids post the YT links for the guys here to look.
It seems that these days everyone is taught to shoot Hollywood style with the left hand (if right handed) at the toe of the stock instead of gripping the fore-end or bearing down on the scope where it should be. It can work where there is little recoil but really comes unstuck with something hefty. I agree with Nathan Foster whose article 'Hold that Fore-end' is well worth reading.Is there a big difference in skill between shooting magnums and smaller calibers such as .308/5.56?
I can shoot sub MOA groups with other calibers, but as soon as I pick up my 300WinMag I suddenly suck. Both the rifle and optic have been checked my mfg and are not defective. I've tried multiple match grade rounds, including the exact same one the mfg used to shoot 3 sub MOA groups. It's not the gear or ammunition. It's all been systematically checked.
I've tried shooting just about every way, including a sled, but I mainly shoot prone with a bipod and bag. My groups range from 1"(rare) to 3.5." I've noticed a lot of the time a 3 round group has 2 very close if not touching, and one outlier ruining the group. I don't understand why I can shoot sub MOA with a smaller caliber and then have that large of a difference when I shoot the WinMag. I've had friends film me shooting and everything looks normal. I've accidentally fired on an empty chamber a handful of times and didn't flinch. With other calibers I can tell when I throw a round. On this rifle I can shoot a group that feels like it should be great, but it isn't.
I've got around 500 rounds through it and it's been the same repeated target since day one.
I've been scratching my head for over a year and I don't understand how there can be that much of a difference in my shooting ability. Is this common? Am I missing something?
It seems that these days everyone is taught to shoot Hollywood style with the left hand (if right handed) at the toe of the stock instead of gripping the fore-end or bearing down on the scope where it should be. It can work where there is little recoil but really comes unstuck with something hefty. I agree with Nathan Foster whose article 'Hold that Fore-end' is well worth reading.
It seems that these days everyone is taught to shoot Hollywood style with the left hand (if right handed) at the toe of the stock instead of gripping the fore-end or bearing down on the scope where it should be. It can work where there is little recoil but really comes unstuck with something hefty. I agree with Nathan Foster whose article 'Hold that Fore-end' is well worth reading.
It seems that these days everyone is taught to shoot Hollywood style with the left hand (if right handed) at the toe of the stock instead of gripping the fore-end or bearing down on the scope where it should be. It can work where there is little recoil but really comes unstuck with something hefty. I agree with Nathan Foster whose article 'Hold that Fore-end' is well worth reading.
It seems that these days everyone is taught to shoot Hollywood style with the left hand (if right handed) at the toe of the stock instead of gripping the fore-end or bearing down on the scope where it should be. It can work where there is little recoil but really comes unstuck with something hefty. I agree with Nathan Foster whose article 'Hold that Fore-end' is well worth reading.
Yeah, I got some of those 2 and 3 legged gizmos that support the front of the rifle for me.
Well I took the rifle to the PRS competition today and had a member from here shoot it. We tried two different optics and it is definitely an issue with the night force. I can’t believe it but night force is still arguing with me telling me that they are 100% positive their optic is not defect. I can literally swap back-and-forth between optics and watch the groups go from 3-6 inches to 1 inch or less. It wasn’t an issue with the rings. The night forest dealer remounted it with brand new rings and it still does it
The nightforce competition optic used by many F class shooters is known to have a zero drift at times. So, this isn’t shocking.
A Nightforce man, I take it?That's bullbutter- No such thing as "0 drift" of NF's gear- Why the hell would you bring something up like that when you have no practical knowledge of it, especially with this situation- Doodes love to run there traps about stuff online, when they don't have the balls to admit their own shortcomings at the line. "0 drift" on a Nightforce...Laughable man... You must rep bushnell-
No. Sorry I haven’t been able to update it on LRH. Mein Fuhrer Len does not approve. He deleted all associated threads and banned me.Did this ever get resolved ?
That's bullbutter- No such thing as "0 drift" in NF's gear- Why the hell would you bring something up like that when you have no practical knowledge of it, especially with this situation- Doodes love to run there traps about stuff online, when they don't have the balls to admit their own shortcomings at the line. "0 drift" on a Nightforce...Laughable man... You must rep bushnell-
NF said both rings and the scope body were in spec, but hell yeah it’s worth a try. Thanks.I had a ATACR slipping in a Spuhr even at slightly above spec torques on my MRAD 338LM. I used some scope grip rosin and it solved the problem. NF might be right, your scope might be functioning correctly but maybe the tube is slightly out of spec and not being gripped by the second set of rings well either.
The rosin is cheap, it's worth a try.
SCOPE GRIP (ROSIN)
Check out the deal on SCOPE GRIP (ROSIN) at MSP - Mounting Solutions Pluswww.mountsplus.com
OK, let me ask a dumb question- when I read the post, I took it to essentially say that NFs have zeros that drift, not that they had zero drift. Which way is the correct interpretation that generated the outrage? Inquiring minds want to know.Ok mf’er. Bye Bye.
(FYI, I’ve watched guys test these in scope checkers. It’s common knowledge with F class and the NF competition)
You read it the wrong wayOK, let me ask a dumb question- when I read the post, I took it to essentially say that NFs have zeros that drift, not that they had zero drift. Which way is the correct interpretation that generated the outrage? Inquiring minds want to know.
OK, let me ask a dumb question- when I read the post, I took it to essentially say that NFs have zeros that drift, not that they had zero drift. Which way is the correct interpretation that generated the outrage? Inquiring minds want to know.
Frank keeps saying you need to get another bipod in the podcasts ....Harris
You've got a lot of good advice here. I watched your video and looked at your target. I've owned magnum hunting rifles in the past, and a couple of them would beat you to death if you let them. On a couple of the shots, the muscles in you face and parts of your body looked like you were anticipating the shot. You are definitely in too low of a position as Lowlight pointed out along with some other good advice he gave you. But, if you were also anticipating the shot, that's going to give you problems. There's something I haven't seen anyone suggest here. Double up on your hearing protection. I know it sounds crazy, but use some ear plugs under those muffs. Give it a try and see what happens.NF said both rings and the scope body were in spec, but hell yeah it’s worth a try. Thanks.