Is this a good setup for a new guy?

[Marv_2101]

My plans are to start reloading for a .270, 6.5 creedmoor and 30-06 to start with. I want to make good precision ammo for the 30-06 to reach out to 1000 yards. This is what I had in mind.

-RCBS rock chucker supreme reloading kit.

-Frankford arsenal platinum case prep and trim station.

-RCBS powder trickler.

-308 shell holder and powder thrower bracket.

-Redding Premium full length sizing die and bullet seater.

-Digital calipers and a Hornady lock and load bullet comparator.

-Vibratory case tumbler and media for cleaning cases.

-Chronograph of some sort to measure bullet speed.

-Brass, powder, bullets and primers.

The RCBS kit comes with a reloading manual and a manual beam scale which I’ve heard is more accurate than the digital powder throwers just takes more time which is fine with me as I’ll just be making small batches of ammo to start with. Is there anything you would add or change, open to all suggestions as I don’t know anyone that reloads so I’ll be learning as I go.

 

[Chris1972]

Since you have nobody to mentor you take the time to read through at least two reloading manuals. Then ask a lot of questions, good ones and dumb ones. Get it all out there.

 

[vh20]

Since you have nobody to mentor you take the time to read through at least two reloading manuals. Then ask a lot of questions, good ones and dumb ones. Get it all out there.

Yes, do that - but also some of the best PRECISION reloading info available is archived right here in the Sticky Threads of this section (Reloading Depot) of the forum. Read through all of it!

Regarding your dies, I don't think the Redding Premium sizing die uses bushings to control neck tension. I'd recommend their Type-S full-length sizing die instead. Then throw away the expander ball inside and get yourself an expander mandrel die and the appropriate sized mandrel to uniform your neck tension. Eliminating the expander ball (and replacing it with an expander mandrel die for that purpose) both allows you to control your neck tension, and also generally improves concentricity.

The Redding micrometer sizing die is fine, but a lot of people prefer the Forster Ultra micrometer seating die due to some folks having trouble breaking the seating stems on the Reddings. For every cartridge I load for, I have a Redding Type-S full-length sizing die, and a Forster Ultra seater. I have been experimenting with the M-series dies from Area 419, but that's not for this discussion.

On the FA case prep station, I don't think it uses a VLD-angle for the inside neck chamfer tool. If not, get the VLD one from RCBS. It has the same threads and will screw right in to the same station. I got one with the handle included for less than $20. I removed the handle, screwed the tool into the prep station, and kept the handle handy in case I ever need to use it manually. The VLD-angled chamfer is steeper, and allows for easier, more gentle seating on VLD/Hybrid style bullets used for long range shooting.

Digital calipers - Mitutoyo. Don't be tempted by the cheap ones.

Chronograph - Garmin if it's in the budget (and there are some other very new ones in that price range, but the Garmin is one of the most universally loved products I've ever seen since it came out last year). If budget is tight, you can probably pick up a Labradar in the $200-$250 range from someone who has replaced theirs with a Garmin. Magnetospeed V3s are also available cheap for the same reason, but I never used my Magnetospeed again after I got my Labradar...and I never used my Labradar again after I got my Garmin.

Lapua brass is always hard to beat, as are Berger bullets. For powder, I really don't even consider anything that isn't temperature stable now that there is a wide selection of them that are.

 

[wv.citybilly]

Since you have nobody to mentor you take the time to read through at least two reloading manuals.

Good advice. I didn't have anyone help me, but read a lot (still do).

Internet Archive has online (outdated) books. A local library can through the "inter-library loan system" get more current books. For example, mine helped me get the current Hornady book.

https://archive.org/

 

[Marv_2101]

Yes, do that - but also some of the best PRECISION reloading info available is archived right here in the Sticky Threads of this section (Reloading Depot) of the forum. Read through all of it!

Regarding your dies, I don't think the Redding Premium sizing die uses bushings to control neck tension. I'd recommend their Type-S full-length sizing die instead. Then throw away the expander ball inside and get yourself an expander mandrel die and the appropriate sized mandrel to uniform your neck tension. Eliminating the expander ball (and replacing it with an expander mandrel die for that purpose) both allows you to control your neck tension, and also generally improves concentricity.

The Redding micrometer sizing die is fine, but a lot of people prefer the Forster Ultra micrometer seating die due to some folks having trouble breaking the seating stems on the Reddings. For every cartridge I load for, I have a Redding Type-S full-length sizing die, and a Forster Ultra seater. I have been experimenting with the M-series dies from Area 419, but that's not for this discussion.

On the FA case prep station, I don't think it uses a VLD-angle for the inside neck chamfer tool. If not, get the VLD one from RCBS. It has the same threads and will screw right in to the same station. I got one with the handle included for less than $20. I removed the handle, screwed the tool into the prep station, and kept the handle handy in case I ever need to use it manually. The VLD-angled chamfer is steeper, and allows for easier, more gentle seating on VLD/Hybrid style bullets used for long range shooting.

Digital calipers - Mitutoyo. Don't be tempted by the cheap ones.

Chronograph - Garmin if it's in the budget (and there are some other very new ones in that price range, but the Garmin is one of the most universally loved products I've ever seen since it came out last year). If budget is tight, you can probably pick up a Labradar in the $200-$250 range from someone who has replaced theirs with a Garmin. Magnetospeed V3s are also available cheap for the same reason, but I never used my Magnetospeed again after I got my Labradar...and I never used my Labradar again after I got my Garmin.

Lapua brass is always hard to beat, as are Berger bullets. For powder, I really don't even consider anything that isn't temperature stable now that there is a wide selection of them that are.

Thanks man, budget is a concern but I’m trying to not over complicate things and just get started. I think that’s the biggest step, what’s your thoughts on the rcbs match master dies? I’ve heard not to skimp out on dies if you want to make quality ammo.

 

[Chris1972]

The Redding premiums set you mentioned are good dies. I wouldn’t hesitate to use those.

 

[RegionRat]

open to all suggestions as I don’t know anyone that reloads so I’ll be learning as I go.

For all the time and waste it will save you.... spend a part of your time and resources and find the nearest club that shoots competition of any sort or a club that teaches reloading classes, and get a live mentor to teach you the basic foundations.

It isn't impossible to learn this on your own in a vacuum.... but... I can assure you that for the effort and cost of getting yourself to a "hands on" session or two with a live mentor, your return on investment will be very good.

Once you are past the basic learning curve, then you will have a much better basis to understand what was being written in all the books and forums. Either way...

Good Luck and enjoy the journey.

 

[straightshooter1]

My plans are to start reloading for a .270, 6.5 creedmoor and 30-06 to start with. I want to make good precision ammo for the 30-06 to reach out to 1000 yards. This is what I had in mind.

-RCBS rock chucker supreme reloading kit.

-Frankford arsenal platinum case prep and trim station.

-RCBS powder trickler.

-308 shell holder and powder thrower bracket.

-Redding Premium full length sizing die and bullet seater.

-Digital calipers and a Hornady lock and load bullet comparator.

-Vibratory case tumbler and media for cleaning cases.

-Chronograph of some sort to measure bullet speed.

-Brass, powder, bullets and primers.

The RCBS kit comes with a reloading manual and a manual beam scale which I’ve heard is more accurate than the digital powder throwers just takes more time which is fine with me as I’ll just be making small batches of ammo to start with. Is there anything you would add or change, open to all suggestions as I don’t know anyone that reloads so I’ll be learning as I go.

Since it sounds like you want to go with RCBW, rather than going with the Supreme Kit, I'd recommend going with the Rebel Kit instead for your precisions reloading. IMHO, the Rebel press is a better press do to it being much sturdier.

One of the big things that really helps is a good digital scale. It can make a huge difference on the results you get. You might take a look at one like this that's reasonably affordable.

As you learn to do precision reloading, I'd suggest you focus on one caliber to start with . . . like the 6.5 CM (smaller case volume, using less powder as you go through your learning curve). Once you start to really figure things out (like which tools work best for you and which don't), then you can move on to precision loading for the other cartridges.

Like RegionRat suggests, finding a good mentor at a nearby shooting club is the best way to do as it'll shorten your learning curve and you'll waist less components.

 

[MO Fugga]

Another vote for Forster Ultra dies. Good luck OP!

 

[vh20]

Since it sounds like you want to go with RCBW, rather than going with the Supreme Kit, I'd recommend going with the Rebel Kit instead for your precisions reloading. IMHO, the Rebel press is a better press do to it being much sturdier.

One of the big things that really helps is a good digital scale. It can make a huge difference on the results you get. You might take a look at one like this that's reasonably affordable.

As you learn to do precision reloading, I'd suggest you focus on one caliber to start with . . . like the 6.5 CM (smaller case volume, using less powder as you go through your learning curve). Once you start to really figure things out (like which tools work best for you and which don't), then you can move on to precision loading for the other cartridges.

Like RegionRat suggests, finding a good mentor at a nearby shooting club is the best way to do as it'll shorten your learning curve and you'll waist less components.

That’s a good point about learning and honing your skills on one cartridge before moving on to the others, and of those listed the 6.5 is the Easy Button for 1000 yds. H4350 is a no-brainer for the 6.5, paired with a Berger 140 or 144 hybrid (or even a Hornady 140 ELD), and you’ll be in high cotton very quickly.
A question for @straightshooter1 : how does that scale compare to the FX120i? I will say this, when I moved from a balance scale (a VERY accurate one) to the FX120i, it was a quantum leap, so I agree it would make the OP’s life a ton easier if that scale is as stable and accurate as the FX120i.

 

[straightshooter1]

That’s a good point about learning and honing your skills on one cartridge before moving on to the others, and of those listed the 6.5 is the Easy Button for 1000 yds. H4350 is a no-brainer for the 6.5, paired with a Berger 140 or 144 hybrid (or even a Hornady 140 ELD), and you’ll be in high cotton very quickly.
A question for @straightshooter1 : how does that scale compare to the FX120i? I will say this, when I moved from a balance scale (a VERY accurate one) to the FX120i, it was a quantum leap, so I agree it would make the OP’s life a ton easier if that scale is as stable and accurate as the FX120i.

I've only heard from other shooters about the A&D EJ-303 as it compares to the FX-120i, where they report a good experience with it. It's been reported that it's not quite as fast or quite as stable as the 120i, but it's accurate and gets the job done well and better than most digitals. . . .it can run on batteries. I have an FX-120i that I just love, but it might be just a bit too pricy for the OP??? Even the 303 might be stretching it for him???

 

[RegionRat]

. . .it can run on batteries

This is the biggest advantage of the EJ-303. It is a smaller unit and the portability lends it to loading at the range.

 

[6.5SH]

My plans are to start reloading for a .270, 6.5 creedmoor and 30-06 to start with. I want to make good precision ammo for the 30-06 to reach out to 1000 yards. This is what I had in mind.

-RCBS rock chucker supreme reloading kit.

-Frankford arsenal platinum case prep and trim station.

-RCBS powder trickler.

-308 shell holder and powder thrower bracket.

-Redding Premium full length sizing die and bullet seater.

-Digital calipers and a Hornady lock and load bullet comparator.

-Vibratory case tumbler and media for cleaning cases.

-Chronograph of some sort to measure bullet speed.

-Brass, powder, bullets and primers.

The RCBS kit comes with a reloading manual and a manual beam scale which I’ve heard is more accurate than the digital powder throwers just takes more time which is fine with me as I’ll just be making small batches of ammo to start with. Is there anything you would add or change, open to all suggestions as I don’t know anyone that reloads so I’ll be learning as I go.

Look for this class in your area if you don't have a friend or mentor to get your started:

NRA Training

www.nrainstructors.org

NRA Training

www.nrainstructors.org

 

[99mpower]

huge fan of the Redding T-7 over the rock chucker

still a single stage press, but allows you to “set and forget” dies much easier

i sold both my Rock Chuckers and went T-7 with and extra turret or two, and my life is MICH better now

 

[WasNH4X]

At OP, how far north south east or west from Jack town are you........if not too far, I may be able to help you out.

Add some form of book and pin to your list and take notes,measurements ect.......write it ALL down....thank me later.

 

[kthomas]

This Modern Day Sniper online reloading course starts today, and would be a great investment for a new reloader:

Event Details

www.moderndaysniper.shop

If you can't attend live, the sessions are recorded and available anytime afterwards for you to watch/review.

You may think that its not cheap, but having someone guide you through the reloading process is invaluable.

 

[Doom]

Learning to reload takes some effort. It not just the mechanics but learning the terminology and developing the process that fits your level of effort to fit your purpose. It's hard to hit the ground running, especially without a mentor or at least some defined program of instruction. Reading about reloading on the Internet forums can ultimately lead to confusion and unnecessary effort if the reloader isn't careful.

Trying to incorporate some of the things that a bench rest shooter does is not worth the time, effort, and or the expense if the reloader is reloading for a 6-1/2 lb 30-06 hunting rifle. If you are shooting custom rifles and are a top 1% shooter then almost everything matters.

Part of this thread has drifted toward scales and I will offer some information that will probably get me roasted. The Fx-120i is a great scale. a $600 great scale that some think can measure to a single grain of powder which isn't correct but that isn't the point. There are other scales that can get get the same or similar resolution and precision for about half the price but with longer response times. Then there are other 0.1 grain resolution scales that can be had for as little as $100 or less. My point here is that you have a choice and while the Fx-120i may be appropriate for some uses it can be gross overkill in others.

 

[vh20]

Learning to reload takes some effort. It not just the mechanics but learning the terminology and developing the process that fits your level of effort to fit your purpose. It's hard to hit the ground running, especially without a mentor or at least some defined program of instruction. Reading about reloading on the Internet forums can ultimately lead to confusion and unnecessary effort if the reloader isn't careful.

Trying to incorporate some of the things that a bench rest shooter does is not worth the time, effort, and or the expense if the reloader is reloading for a 6-1/2 lb 30-06 hunting rifle. If you are shooting custom rifles and are a top 1% shooter then almost everything matters.

Part of this thread has drifted toward scales and I will offer some information that will probably get me roasted. The Fx-120i is a great scale. a $600 great scale that some think can measure to a single grain of powder which isn't correct but that isn't the point. There are other scales that can get get the same or similar resolution and precision for about half the price but with longer response times. Then there are other 0.1 grain resolution scales that can be had for as little as $100 or less. My point here is that you have a choice and while the Fx-120i may be appropriate for some uses it can be gross overkill in others.

I wouldn't argue anything you said above except one thing - you said the FX 120i can't measure "a single grain of powder" (you meant kernel I will assume, but that's beside the point). If you're talking ball/flake powders that might be correct, but for stick powders (which are the most common in precision rifle loads) what evidence do you have that it can't? The scale has a resolution of 0.02gr, and the average stick powder weighs between 0.02-0.04gr. My cup weighs 727.22gr every time it hits the scale, day-in, day-out. If I zero the scale with the cup on the platen and take the cup off, it will register -727.22gr off, and back to 0.00 when I put it back on, day-in, day-out. If I place a single kernel of my powder in the cup, which averages 0.04gr/kernel, it will register the single kernel as 0.02-0.04gr every time, which is within the resolution of the scale. Why do we think it isn't correct that it can't measure to a single kernel accurately (to within 1/2 a single kernel, which we can't do anything about unless we're so obsessed as to start splitting single kernels, which will have no measurable effect on the performance of the load)?

 

[Harman117]

If you haven't seen this video already, it does a good job at assessing a similar "kit" like the one you are considering:



They (the channel) also have a website and online courses too if thats something you're looking into.

Edit: Add the Hornady Headspace Comparator to your list too if you haven't already. I see the bullet comparator, but you should really have both

 

[Doom]

I wouldn't argue anything you said above except one thing - you said the FX 120i can't measure "a single grain of powder" (you meant kernel I will assume, but that's beside the point). If you're talking ball/flake powders that might be correct, but for stick powders (which are the most common in precision rifle loads) what evidence do you have that it can't? The scale has a resolution of 0.02gr, and the average stick powder weighs between 0.02-0.04gr. My cup weighs 727.22gr every time it hits the scale, day-in, day-out. If I zero the scale with the cup on the platen and take the cup off, it will register -727.22gr off, and back to 0.00 when I put it back on, day-in, day-out. If I place a single kernel of my powder in the cup, which averages 0.04gr/kernel, it will register the single kernel as 0.02-0.04gr every time, which is within the resolution of the scale. Why do we think it isn't correct that it can't measure to a single kernel accurately (to within 1/2 a single kernel, which we can't do anything about unless we're so obsessed as to start splitting single kernels, which will have no measurable effect on the performance of the load)?

Yep, Kernel. Actually the resolution is 0.02 grains so the scale can drift up to 0.019 gr and you will not know it. But the scale repeatability is 0.001 grams or .01543 gns (1 standard deviation). For 95% repeatability that is 2x.01543gn or .031 gn. So the actual repeatability of the scale is 0.02 gn+/-.031gn or 0.05gn. It is not 0.02 gn. Note: this is repeatability not total accuracy. That would be 0.02+ sqrt(.031^2+.031^2) =0.064gn which is not important to our case. Now to your point. In a short term weighing you pan over and over you may well see the pan repeat very well. And I won't dispute that my calculation is based on data specified by the manufacturer. His data is based on detailed testing of the scale under controlled testing. But to the fact, does 1 kernel mean anything? It equates to about 2.7 fps in a 308.

Does all this really matter? I doubt that if you were to measure 2 sets of 20 charges with an indicated weight difference of 0.04 grains you would be able to see the difference on the chronograph or on target at 1000yds. On a 308 it's about 1" @ 1000yds, even less with a 6.5CM.

 

[Im2bent]

There are a ton of youtube videos on reloading basics. If you can afford it buy the digital scale now you can add an autotrickler later.

 

[secondofangle2]

That Frankfurt Arsenal case prep station may be a waste of money. Most functions are not needed every session and can be done with cheap hand tools.

And you don’t need premium dies or micrometer seating stems. Any run of the mill (eg RCBS) FL die set will be fine. My profile pic 50 BMG group was loaded with RCBS dies. I only got nicer ones for bling after reloading w the RCBS for 10 years. (Been reloading for almost 35 years now overall)

and you don’t need digital or expensive calipers. $20 SS Made in China calipers will last a lifetime and be perfectly fine. I have Any Time Tool ones from Amazon. I remember a guy getting into reloading 15 years ago and he thought Starrett calipers and measuring to a fraction of .001” was going to make all the difference. It doesn’t. Just have a consistent process and everything will be uniform enough, and .02 diff in COAL both is inevitable and irrelevant.

A good scale is def worth it and so is the Garmin. Thats where I would spend my $$$ as they are head and shoulders above the alternatives.

The most important thing to shoot well, is a good barrel, a good bullet, a good load, which is usually a known good load, and a consistent velocity, which comes from a good load and a good scale measured by a good chronograph all performed by a good shooter. And none of that depends on what kind of die or micrometer you use.

 

[Marv_2101]

That Frankfurt Arsenal case prep station may be a waste of money. Most functions are not needed every session and can be done with cheap hand tools.

And you don’t need premium dies or micrometer seating stems. Any run of the mill (eg RCBS) FL die set will be fine. My profile pic 50 BMG group was loaded with RCBS dies. I only got nicer ones for bling after reloading w the RCBS for 10 years. (Been reloading for almost 35 years now overall)

and you don’t need digital or expensive calipers. $20 SS Made in China calipers will last a lifetime and be perfectly fine. I have Any Time Tool ones from Amazon. I remember a guy getting into reloading 15 years ago and he thought Starrett calipers and measuring to a fraction of .001” was going to make all the difference. It doesn’t. Just have a consistent process and everything will be uniform enough, and .02 diff in COAL both is inevitable and irrelevant.

A good scale is def worth it and so is the Garmin. Thats where I would spend my $$$ as they are head and shoulders above the alternatives.

The most important thing to shoot well, is a good barrel, a good bullet, a good load, which is usually a known good load, and a consistent velocity, which comes from a good load and a good scale measured by a good chronograph all performed by a good shooter. And none of that depends on what kind of die or micrometer you use.

Thanks for simplifying it man. I’ll start with the basic dies for my rifles and go from there.

As far and chamfer and deburring tools go I know they can be had for cheap but what about a case trimmer? Ive been looking at the LE Wilson manual case trimmer.

Powder measure recommendations? I don’t mind spending a little extra here but keep in mind I’m new to it. So a $1500 powder thrower seems insane to me at this point and I want to make sure I stick with it. Rcbs charge master link and the supreme is what I’ve looked at.

 

[secondofangle2]

Scale: I’d get any one to start (even an $50 digital one from Hornady or RCBS) and try to save up for an A&D 120i. Or maybe the creedmore if you think the 120 is just not in the budget. It and the 120 can be coupled w IP system later if it ever comes out (looking like 2028 LOL). I’m not sure I’d mess w a chargemaster. can do as well by hand even though it’s tedious. Judgment call

Thrower I’d just get an RCBS uniflow and hand trickle up to final charge

You don’t need to trim till after several firings. I’d wait till I needed to trim and figure it out then and consider the Giraud tri-way trimmer

 

[vh20]

That Frankfurt Arsenal case prep station may be a waste of money. Most functions are not needed every session and can be done with cheap hand tools.

And you don’t need premium dies or micrometer seating stems. Any run of the mill (eg RCBS) FL die set will be fine. My profile pic 50 BMG group was loaded with RCBS dies. I only got nicer ones for bling after reloading w the RCBS for 10 years. (Been reloading for almost 35 years now overall)

and you don’t need digital or expensive calipers. $20 SS Made in China calipers will last a lifetime and be perfectly fine. I have Any Time Tool ones from Amazon. I remember a guy getting into reloading 15 years ago and he thought Starrett calipers and measuring to a fraction of .001” was going to make all the difference. It doesn’t. Just have a consistent process and everything will be uniform enough, and .02 diff in COAL both is inevitable and irrelevant.

A good scale is def worth it and so is the Garmin. Thats where I would spend my $$$ as they are head and shoulders above the alternatives.

The most important thing to shoot well, is a good barrel, a good bullet, a good load, which is usually a known good load, and a consistent velocity, which comes from a good load and a good scale measured by a good chronograph all performed by a good shooter. And none of that depends on what kind of die or micrometer you use.

Can’t really argue with any of that, in terms of final results. Some of the other things suggested will make life easier, though. We just trade cost for ease of use/time. And yes, I used Harbor Freight dial calipers ($10-ish) for years with no ill effects, but I think the Mitutoyos are worth what they cost (and not a big outlay comparatively). I would DEFINITELY pick an A&D FX120i and hand throw/trickle over a cheap scale, or Chargemaster, etc. It doesn’t drift, you can trust what it gives you, and you can use it with the latest, hottest, most modern thrower/tricklers later on. You don’t have to have one to start making decent ammo, but you’ll probably end up with one eventually, so cheaper in the long run.

And I will say again, if you’re going to be buying a deburr/chamfer tool, get one with the VLD angle.

 

[wv.citybilly]

? Ive been looking at the LE Wilson manual case trimmer.

LE Wilson Case Trimmer, Stand, with Micrometer is a good pick. I also have from them, Case Mouth Burring Tool, and Burring Tool Power Adaptor.

Pricey, but it's the most exact equipment I own.

 

[secondofangle2]

I mean, if we’re going to talk about premium tremors there is the G.I. RAUD, and the Henderson. But I loaded for 20 years without them and anyone else can too.

My comments were suggestion for someone starting out and trying to maximize value for dollar

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Good list.

Start slow and read the books.

Find someone to shadow if you can.

But you are off to a Good start!

Lots of us who learned to load back in the ‘80’s had no support… obviously no internet. And just the reloading manuals. And we figured it out!!

A ton more details and gear available now. Some great.. some just retarded. But all worth reading and absorbing.

Best of luck and post those groups!!!

Sirhr

 

[WasNH4X]

Good list.

Start slow and read the books.

Find someone to shadow if you can.

But you are off to a Good start!

Lots of us who learned to old backing the ‘80’s had no support… obviously non internet. And just the reload manuals. And we figured it out!!

A ton more details and gear available now. Some great.. some just retarded. But all worth reading and absorbing.

Best of luck and post those groups!!!

Sirhr

I kinda hinted that ,if not too far from me, that I might would help him get started ,as a "pay back " to Mr. Owen ,who helped me get started in 76. Haven't had any response........maybe he missed?

 

[Marv_2101]

At OP, how far north south east or west from Jack town are you........if not too far, I may be able to help you out.

Add some form of book and pin to your list and take notes,measurements ect.......write it ALL down....thank me later.

My apologies sir I must have looked over your post but I’m about 40 minutes north of Jackson not to terribly far.

 

[WasNH4X]

My apologies sir I must have looked over your post but I’m about 40 minutes north of Jackson not to terribly far.

No problem

PM me , the distance is doable........I would be happy to show you the basics and help in any way.

 

[OkieMike]

A few recommendations. And some insights that don't necessarily apply to brand X reloading gear...

Reloading manual(s). The more the merrier. The free online load data helps with that.

The best components (brass/bullets/powder/primers) that are available... Lapua brass/Berger bullets/Temp stable powders. Primers are a crap shoot due to availability.

A good set of digital calipers. Hard to beat Mitutoyo.

The absolute best scale you can afford.

A way to anneal your brass.

Take prodigious notes. Write down what you did. If you don't, you WILL forget... I fill out a data card for every batch of reloads I make... What the components are and what their lot # is. CBTO/OAL... The works. And after each shooting session I staple that data card to its respective target.

Keeping records takes an additional 5 minutes. But it will save you time, effort, and money later on. Repeating a test batch because you forgot what worked so well previously is time, effort, and components (money) wasted.

Keep goals/expectations reasonable. If you have a rifle that averages 2" groups at 100 yards with several different iterations of factory ammo... Reloading for it will only improve it so much... You might be able to get it down to a 1.25" rifle with hand loads. Your chances of turning it into a 1/2" gun are exceptionally small.

Keep your equipment in top shape... Spending an afternoon shooting a batch of hand loads with crappy groups is discouraging... Even more discouraging is when you're packing up to leave, you discover your scope was loose. Maybe you had a good recipe but a loose scope just threw all that time/effort out the window. That's a bullshit way to spend an afternoon. Been there. Done that.

Mike

 

[RegionRat]

The best components (brass/bullets/powder/primers) that are available... Lapua brass/Berger bullets/Temp stable powders.

+1
Always best if a beginner starts with a "Pet Load" of known good performance in any given context.

We have had a pattern on the forums where a beginner grabs mismatched components because they caught them on sale, then has a bad time because the materials are a challenge.

Best to focus as much on a good starting recipe as it is on the equipment.

In fact when we have the time and inclination, we start rookies with something like low pressure 38 Special before we show them bottleneck rifle work.

That gives them a chance to digest some of the basics and gain some confidence/experience and feel in the loading environment before they dive into more difficult bottleneck case prep work. YMMV