Krg 10/22 bravo

I test fit my PWS Summit into the Bravo today. Mine has a custom rear tang like KIDD but seemed to me I had a gap between the tang and chassis. Less than a washer thickness but noticeable. I made a shim to make up the difference but when I tried the install the reciever would slip in with the shom in place. Mocked it up without it and it should be fine but would like it more "fitted". Might mess more tomorrow and mount a barrel as well.

For those with a KIDD rear tang, is there a ever so slight gap between the chassis and tang before you screw it down? I'm running a Jard trigger also and may have to try a normal housing to see if it's that.
 
Here it is mocked up. I'll need to get a black buffer also yet, maybe.
 

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Put my late 90's Ruger into one a couple weeks ago, love the way it looks and feels, but fit's a little loose.
-Edited to move questions to a new thread.
 
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yeah.. https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/1022bravo-chassis-rimfire/ .. they never mentioned removal of the rear tang when I emailed them.. the chassis is supposed to arrive later today, I'd hate to send it back.. .. if anyone can confirm it funs fine without the tang I'd greatly appreciate it!
So a little update…

I went and took the weapon apart in order to do a proper cleaning because you pretty much have to take it apart in order to be able to get the bolt out.

as I stated previously the fit of the stock to the action didn’t really hold it nice and tight and it had a lot of playing it which was driving me nuts.

it was then I realized that I had put the screw for the rear tang back into the receiver so it didn’t get lost. Originally I was positive it wasn’t touching anything because appeared to be plenty of room underneath the rear area of the gun at the stock.

It turns out that’s not the case and that the fraction of an inch was enough to interfere with the setting of the stock at the rear of the action. We’re talking about a half a millimeter of protrusion but that was enough.

Took out the rear tank screw and it actually sits perfectly and is in great shape. Rocksolid meeting of the stock in the action and even though the barrel is unbelievably heavy nothings moving.
 
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When you look at it from the top as you’re sending it into the stock it’s really looks like there’s no problem whatsoever with leaving that screw in there. Obviously the tank Hass to come off but it looked totally fine… not so much.
 
Question for people with the Kidd rear tang. What torque are you using for the tang to stock screw (rear action screw)? I've searched for hours online and not finding anything conclusive. I put mine together last night and have it currently at 20 in/lbs to match the front action screw.

KRG shows 45-50 in/lbs for their original screw in that location, but nothing mentioned if using the Kidd rear tang. And Kidd doesn't show anything either on their site. They also don't mention a torque spec for the receiver to tang screw, which I found a bit odd.

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I have to say that my limited dealings with Kidd have been fantastic. But this is the one area where I’ve felt let down by them. No guidance on how to install the rear tang.
I’m waiting for a chance to get mine into the mill, and I think I’ve done all the measurements correctly for where to pocket based off the receiver and the shelf in the chassis. Still can’t help feeling paranoid that I’ve missed some aspect and may do damage to the receiver because of a simple dimension I’ve overlooked.
 
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Maiden voyage on Saturday. After about 50 rounds the trigger began failing to reset. I assumed it was because of me using the lightest trigger return spring from the Kidd assortment. I manually reset the trigger each time and continued shooting. With the intent of changing that spring, I later found the trigger pin had backed out. Further research showed the area in the stock that should cover/retain the pin is about 0.145" tall and wasn't covering the pin on the sides, allowing it to walk out. I had the front action block flipped around with the "B" block on top, from a previous install of this stock using a TCR22 receiver instead of the current Kidd one. I flipped that back around and it allowed the trigger housing to go just a tad lower in the stock. If that doesn't resolve the issue, I'll just glue/epoxy a small plastic insert on each side inside the stock.

Maybe I need to remove the Kidd rear tang and see if that allows the trigger housing to sit even lower in the stock? Anyone else run into this? It's a factory Ruger trigger housing, FWIW.

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Funnily enough I just had a very similar issue. Trigger was failing to reset. I tried to take it out of the stock to tape the pins and make sure it was all good, but the pin was caught a channel between the backbone and the stock. When trying to get it out it cracked the housing on the trigger. Thinking about it now, if I had unbolted the backbone I may have been able to get it out without it breaking. Pretty annoyed, but glad I only have a bx trigger and not a kidd.
 
Funnily enough I just had a very similar issue. Trigger was failing to reset. I tried to take it out of the stock to tape the pins and make sure it was all good, but the pin was caught a channel between the backbone and the stock. When trying to get it out it cracked the housing on the trigger. Thinking about it now, if I had unbolted the backbone I may have been able to get it out without it breaking. Pretty annoyed, but glad I only have a bx trigger and not a kidd.
I put 2 coats of nail polish and a piece of Gorilla tape over mine. Probably overkill, but I don't want it happening again.
 
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At one time before the release of the chassis I thought there was talk (perhaps I misunderstood) of a version down the road with a rear action capture system for 10/22's that did not have a rear tang attachment such as the Kidd. Is that still in the works? Thanks!
 
Ditto, I like the Magpul but the Bravo will replace it....
Just ordered my KRG for my Super Grade. I'm keeping the Magpul just in case I have some of the issues I'm reading about on here. The Magpul that KIDD sends with their Super Grade requires no fitting, filling, sanding or other "adjustments".....it just works.
 
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Quite happy with mine, I too had to relieve the stock just a tad for Kidd's trigger guard to function properly. No big deal.. I also found the sharp plastic edges at the rear of the trigger area annoying as well, but after a bit of sanding.. again, no big deal. This one is getting a Kidd Super Grade receiver, 20 MOA rail and 18.5" heavy, fluted, threaded barrel. Hopefully shipping this week. The Summit Precision CF 18.5" is nice, but I've wanted to do a Kidd SG setup for a while now.

All in all, I'm happy with this as my go too benchrest rig

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Quite happy with mine, I too had to relieve the stock just a tad for Kidd's trigger guard to function properly. No big deal.. I also found the sharp plastic edges at the rear of the trigger area annoying as well, but after a bit of sanding.. again, no big deal. This one is getting a Kidd Super Grade receiver, 20 MOA rail and 18.5" heavy, fluted, threaded barrel. Hopefully shipping this week. The Summit Precision CF 18.5" is nice, but I've wanted to do a Kidd SG setup for a while now.

All in all, I'm happy with this as my go too benchrest rig

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Thanks Jim, that's good news. I haven't sold the KIDD Chassis yet, I'm waiting to see if this KRG will work out. My Magpul stock that came with my Super Grade is still around too....it didn't need relieved or sanded, even though it's despised by most.:unsure:
 
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I think the Magpul stock is a great piece no doubt, but the lure of the KRG intrigued me.. It's a great stock, albeit needing a bit of persuasion for perfection. The rigid aluminum backbone makes all the other nit-picky stuff trivial. My Kidd old school slip fit setup is ROCK SOLID in this setup using the rear tang. Didn't really NEED to order the Super Grade stuff, but what the heck. I wanted a heavy steel barrel anyway.

The only thing I'm perplexed by, is why on earth did they change the LOP design between the 10/22 and Tikka/CRZ rimfire bolt gun design? I find that one hard to understand.. but who am I to figure it out.. Would've been nice to see them the same at the ass end. Oh well, again, no biggy.

Carry on
 
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I think the Magpul stock is a great piece no doubt, but the lure of the KRG intrigued me.. It's a great stock, albeit needing a bit of persuasion for perfection. The rigid aluminum backbone makes all the other nit-picky stuff trivial. My Kidd old school slip fit setup is ROCK SOLID in this setup using the rear tang. Didn't really NEED to order the Super Grade stuff, but what the heck. I wanted a heavy steel barrel anyway.

The only thing I'm perplexed by, is why on earth did they change the LOP design between the 10/22 and Tikka/CRZ bolt gun design? I find that one hard to understand.. but who am I to figure it out.. Would've been nice to see them the same at the ass end. Oh well, again, no biggy.

Carry on
Your LOP Adjuster looks like a quality item. I ordered KRG's Tool Less LOP Adjuster+ the rear tang bolt with my stock, it should be here Thursday.
 
It's the $$$ unit designed for the Tikka/CZR stocks. It fit's to 10/22, but won't collapse all the way in (of which I don't really care.) I like the fact I can get a lot of added length with it.
I'll keep that in mind but I'm one to normally move my scope back further than most anyway. I should be alright with the 10-22 LOP model.
 
Just found this thread, thanks everyone for their contributions. I am ready to swap out my Magpul for one of these Bravo stocks. Where are you guys ordering your stocks from? Direct from KRG?
 
I see the stock on your site, but i cannot add to cart.
My apologies. I had to update a few things about the product and add photos. We do currently have a 1-2 week lead time on that stock, but shipping is free. We have Black in stock currently, other colors can still be ordered on the website but they will take the 1-2 weeks.
 
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Got mine in today from Snyder thanks!! Reading thru the thread again looks like others are also having issues with their magazines not falling free. Can anyone comment on how to remedy this issue? I also have a few 10rd mags connected via alangator setup and the mags will not even seat properly. It looks like the magwell protrudes too far down and doesn't allow the mag to be fully seated.

Oh and my obligatory pic:

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Thanks guys. I de-coupled my mags and my individual 10rd mags also drop freely. It's the BX25s that won't. I also took a Dremel to walls of the magwell area to open it up and remove material so that it will now have space to accommodate and properly seat my tri-coupled 10-rd mags. Now to get out to the range!

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