I made a plug on my 3D printer for the gap in the stock at the rear of the trigger guard. It’s more comfortable now.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Krg 10/22 bravo
- Thread starter Ahogue
- Start date
Take my $$$. Seriously. If you'll make me one, I'm in. MackDaddy1962 at gmail
PLEASE!!
Just got around to putting my old 10/22 in a bravo, It's simply a stock ruger action with a .92 green mountain barrel and volquartsen trigger.
First the good, it's priced right for a chassis, if you don't start stacking on accessories. The plastic feels nice, not cheap/thin. Finish is nice, and let's face it the $250 price tag is a huge attraction. The check rest adjusts nicely and doesn't flex as some cheaper options do. There's lots of slots to attach stuff on the forearm, unfortunately most of them are just bolting to the plastic overmolding, there's no actual AL chassis connection. It's very comfortable, distance to the trigger isn't too long as I find many chassis to be so they did a great job there.
My advice, order the 10/22 spacer kit for $40 that includes the rubber butt pad. The hard plastic buttpad is very slick, and even with the 3/4" spacer it's still way too short (and I frequently complain how LOPs are too long!) I didn't get the quick adjust LOP because if I read their site right it doesn't work with the adjustable butt plate.
As others have noted, mine barely floated the 0.92 barrel, any pressure caused contact using the thicker B spacer, perhaps a C plate is needed or open up the channel more, I ended up adding a shim to increase clearance. It won't work with the standard KRG spigot as it has even less barrel clearance, but to be fair KRG mentions this on their website, I just happened to have one laying around. I also thought I'd just run a pic rail for a bipod on the front of the handguard, but there's no chassis backing up any of the mlok slots, so that was out.
Not a huge fan of the small O.D. shim they included to adjust the trigger spacing gap. After just a few test fittings to the recommended 45 in/lbs you could see the shim compressing the plastic under it. I found a larger O.D washer the same thickness and used that, much better, you could feel it in the torque wrench it tightened up much faster and more solid.
The adjustment range on the adjustable butt plate is very limited because of the tab/slot design they use. You can only adjust the butt pad where the tabs mate into the slots. You basically have to go either 0 degrees or all the way to what I assume is +/- 15 degrees, and mine only moves one tab slot down (about 1/4"). I'll probably shave the tabs off and use a friction tape setup like other plates use for more adjustment options. Aluminum version might be different. I'd have preferred the chassis on the bottom flush fit to the mag as opposed to it being recessed as others mentioned. I suppose if you support the rifle on this area frequently there's less chance of mag interference/influence.
One mod I did do was dremel out the bottom of the stock where the safety fits through on both sides, that way you don't have to mess with centering the safety to install/remove the action, which can be a real pain on some trigger packs.
I noticed side to be side to side movement of the barrel in the channel that would not return to center. At first I thought it was some slop at the rear and it felt tight but I put in some shims it to ensure it wasn't that. I thought it might be just the the AL spine flexing since it's fairly thin around the action screw area, but since it doesn't just return to center it leads me to believe something is shifting not just flexing. I used some machinist dye to see if the action itself was rotating on the action block (A/B plate), however I saw no evidence of rotation between the plate and action. My best guess is it's probably the very small contact interface between the two action clamp plates (A/B) and the chassis itself is allowing the shifting. Even at only 25 in/lbs you can see flex in the A/B plates in the gap between them and the plates have only have a tiny amount of contact with the chassis itself. Shimming the action block against the chassis sides helped some, but the chassis design does not lend itself to bedding the action block there easily, though I may mess with it anyway. I'm sure the design is very flexible with regard to different 10/22 actions and manufacturing variations, it has to be one of the hardest guns to make a stock/chassis for because of all the different versions.
So for me at the end of the day it looks like this:
$250 for the chassis
$40 for the LOP kit
$40 for the adjustable butt plate
$70 to add an arca rail and/or...another $100 to use the minimalist spigot once you add an arca or pic interface that's solid for a bipod/tripod.
So all said and done you can quickly end up between $400-$500 on the setup. Even if you just chose between the arca rail or spigot you're over $400. Compare that to say the PDC chassis that gives you a fully CNC'd chassis with detent adjustable LOP and cheek rest with MPA like adjustments, butt plate height/cant, two arca machined rails built in eliminating the need for both the spigot and the arca rail for around $600 and in hindsight I probably should have just went that way, or if the Onyx chassis had an adjustable butt plate option perhaps that way. So I'd say if you don't end up putting all the extra stuff on it, it's well worth it for the sub $300 price, but if you are going to just end up adding $200+ of stuff on it, probably better to go with a more expensive option up front.
First the good, it's priced right for a chassis, if you don't start stacking on accessories. The plastic feels nice, not cheap/thin. Finish is nice, and let's face it the $250 price tag is a huge attraction. The check rest adjusts nicely and doesn't flex as some cheaper options do. There's lots of slots to attach stuff on the forearm, unfortunately most of them are just bolting to the plastic overmolding, there's no actual AL chassis connection. It's very comfortable, distance to the trigger isn't too long as I find many chassis to be so they did a great job there.
My advice, order the 10/22 spacer kit for $40 that includes the rubber butt pad. The hard plastic buttpad is very slick, and even with the 3/4" spacer it's still way too short (and I frequently complain how LOPs are too long!) I didn't get the quick adjust LOP because if I read their site right it doesn't work with the adjustable butt plate.
As others have noted, mine barely floated the 0.92 barrel, any pressure caused contact using the thicker B spacer, perhaps a C plate is needed or open up the channel more, I ended up adding a shim to increase clearance. It won't work with the standard KRG spigot as it has even less barrel clearance, but to be fair KRG mentions this on their website, I just happened to have one laying around. I also thought I'd just run a pic rail for a bipod on the front of the handguard, but there's no chassis backing up any of the mlok slots, so that was out.
Not a huge fan of the small O.D. shim they included to adjust the trigger spacing gap. After just a few test fittings to the recommended 45 in/lbs you could see the shim compressing the plastic under it. I found a larger O.D washer the same thickness and used that, much better, you could feel it in the torque wrench it tightened up much faster and more solid.
The adjustment range on the adjustable butt plate is very limited because of the tab/slot design they use. You can only adjust the butt pad where the tabs mate into the slots. You basically have to go either 0 degrees or all the way to what I assume is +/- 15 degrees, and mine only moves one tab slot down (about 1/4"). I'll probably shave the tabs off and use a friction tape setup like other plates use for more adjustment options. Aluminum version might be different. I'd have preferred the chassis on the bottom flush fit to the mag as opposed to it being recessed as others mentioned. I suppose if you support the rifle on this area frequently there's less chance of mag interference/influence.
One mod I did do was dremel out the bottom of the stock where the safety fits through on both sides, that way you don't have to mess with centering the safety to install/remove the action, which can be a real pain on some trigger packs.
I noticed side to be side to side movement of the barrel in the channel that would not return to center. At first I thought it was some slop at the rear and it felt tight but I put in some shims it to ensure it wasn't that. I thought it might be just the the AL spine flexing since it's fairly thin around the action screw area, but since it doesn't just return to center it leads me to believe something is shifting not just flexing. I used some machinist dye to see if the action itself was rotating on the action block (A/B plate), however I saw no evidence of rotation between the plate and action. My best guess is it's probably the very small contact interface between the two action clamp plates (A/B) and the chassis itself is allowing the shifting. Even at only 25 in/lbs you can see flex in the A/B plates in the gap between them and the plates have only have a tiny amount of contact with the chassis itself. Shimming the action block against the chassis sides helped some, but the chassis design does not lend itself to bedding the action block there easily, though I may mess with it anyway. I'm sure the design is very flexible with regard to different 10/22 actions and manufacturing variations, it has to be one of the hardest guns to make a stock/chassis for because of all the different versions.
So for me at the end of the day it looks like this:
$250 for the chassis
$40 for the LOP kit
$40 for the adjustable butt plate
$70 to add an arca rail and/or...another $100 to use the minimalist spigot once you add an arca or pic interface that's solid for a bipod/tripod.
So all said and done you can quickly end up between $400-$500 on the setup. Even if you just chose between the arca rail or spigot you're over $400. Compare that to say the PDC chassis that gives you a fully CNC'd chassis with detent adjustable LOP and cheek rest with MPA like adjustments, butt plate height/cant, two arca machined rails built in eliminating the need for both the spigot and the arca rail for around $600 and in hindsight I probably should have just went that way, or if the Onyx chassis had an adjustable butt plate option perhaps that way. So I'd say if you don't end up putting all the extra stuff on it, it's well worth it for the sub $300 price, but if you are going to just end up adding $200+ of stuff on it, probably better to go with a more expensive option up front.
Even with all that said, I'm still happy with my KRG setup. Albeit expensive, like you said it works for me. When I install the barreled action, I gently tighten the rear tang bolt, then the action bolt. I hold the barrel dead center and tighten both up to spec. Thus far, it's worked every time. And I've had the action in-out loads.... Again, to each his / her own, but I'm not regretting it at all. The Oryx chassis with a grip change probably wouldn't be a bad option, but I've never looked into it. I'll have to research the PDC you speak of, not familiar with that one.
Edit: Let me be clear, you're right ToddM. This is a pricey little setup once you add all the goodies like I did. There's no denying that!
Edit: Let me be clear, you're right ToddM. This is a pricey little setup once you add all the goodies like I did. There's no denying that!
Last edited:
Hey, real quick too ToddM. I think my Kidd Supergrade 18" is .920 as well. I just checked again for free-float clearance, and I've got TONS of room between the barrel and backbone. I also had the minimalist spigot with short arcarail on there for a time too (has since been removed and the front of the backbone plugged.) I had no clearance issues with that installed as well. Just and FYI on my build...
Carry on
Carry on
PDC does look nice, but does anyone know if the PDC is milled to accept the KIDD rear tang like the KRG, does not say on their website.
Also, my next rifle build will be a hunting set up so weight is a factor, looks like the PDC will come in about a pound heavier according to the website. Anyone have actual weights.
Also, my next rifle build will be a hunting set up so weight is a factor, looks like the PDC will come in about a pound heavier according to the website. Anyone have actual weights.
Correct the minimalist spigot will allow full clearance, the other older two spigots that KRG offers will not (at least not with a bull barrel) I just happened to have an older spigot around I thought I'd try. KRG does mention that only the minimalist will work with a bull barrel on their 10/22 chassis page, I just didn't dig down that far.
My guess is the barrel clearance comes down to receiver variation, I haven't tried putting my volquartsen in mostly because I have no intention of taking that out of the chassis it's in. It wouldn't be unheard of for even the receiver barrel interface to be crooked, and some guys really crank the V-block screws down too much, pulling the barrel down. Though I can say its been in other chassis/stocks without issue. Solution could be as simple as offering a "C" block with even a bit more clearance since we've seen other reports of no clearance or just enough clearance in this thread. We see this all the time with 10/22 stuff because the variation across other manufacturers and even very old to new Ruger versions changes significantly. Mine is quite old, probably the late 80's so for all I know Ruger has beefed that area up since.
PDC can be milled to accept the KIDD rear tang from what I've read the owner has done it for other customers. On that note for the life of me I can't see why every 10/22 company, including Ruger is not doing some sort of rear tang attachment these days. If I was buying a new 10/22 with any sort of thought toward precision any option that didn't have it would be off the table. I know it's possible to squeeze serious accuracy without it, but it's so much easier with it.
Last edited:
Kind of wish KRG would have included a thin rubber butt pad. The one included is pretty bad. Does the KRG recoil pad for $37.99 fix this issue??
Yeah, but I'd get the 10/22 spacer kit, it comes with 2-3 3/8" spacers and the rubber recoil pad for basically the same price. Not sure what is different between that and the normal KRG recoil pad.
Got my super grade finally and noticed some play between the reciever and chassis. I would like to know what would bet the best way to bed the reciever, I was thinking of using jb weld but would like to hear from those with experience in the matter.
I've got NO play with my Kidd Super grade setup. Action to backbone is rock solid using the Kidd rear tang. Backbone to chassis is rock solid as well. I'm using the KRG full length Arca rail, which adds some rigidity to the overall package too.
If you decide to go this route, Devcon Plastic-Steel epoxy is widely considered very good bedding material, I've been using it for 20+ years. That said the KRG for the 10/22 isn't ideal to bed up front, there's a lot of open space because of the design has almost no support for the front of the action and what support it does have is designed to move (the 2 blocks). It's made even more complicated because of the way the rear screw works bedding it without the plastic stock (which would be ideal) isn't really feasible which means you have less access to the area below the front action screw. You can try to plug up the areas with modeling clay as best you can.
I bedded one for giggles on an old 10/22 from years and years ago. Other designs I've used in the past for the 10/22, such as the Volquartsen VX-5000, Mcrees Precision, MDT (back when they made one for the 10/22) Midwest Industries, all offer what I could consider to be a more supported front action to chassis interface and are more conductive to bedding if you want the action rock solid. That said accuracy wise it might not matter, but to me if I can bed a rifle/chassis and immediately feel that it's much stiffer both in up/down deflection and side/side deflection as I could with the KRG, I can't see how that's a bad thing. To be honest I've found most chassis, rimfire and otherwise, unless the fit really tight, or have some mechanism for really locking the gun in (for example the Orxy 10/22 design where it clamps to the action) benefit from bedding. Some are machined/fit in such a way it's not needed but generally you can tell on those right away by how well the barrel resists deflection once it's installed. There's really no way to do that with a 10/22 because tolerances are all over the place, you'd end up with a chassis a bunch of rifles wouldn't even fit into.
Last edited:
Where did you get that cheek pad?Quite happy with mine, I too had to relieve the stock just a tad for Kidd's trigger guard to function properly. No big deal.. I also found the sharp plastic edges at the rear of the trigger area annoying as well, but after a bit of sanding.. again, no big deal. This one is getting a Kidd Super Grade receiver, 20 MOA rail and 18.5" heavy, fluted, threaded barrel. Hopefully shipping this week. The Summit Precision CF 18.5" is nice, but I've wanted to do a Kidd SG setup for a while now.
All in all, I'm happy with this as my go too benchrest rig
If you can live without the machine cut perfection you can buy about 10 sheets of adhesive back closed cell foam in various thicknesses for as much as one of the pre-cut ones pads cost at Amazon, any craft store, walmart etc. Started using it decades ago to quiet down rattle prone bow parts, arrow rests etc. as opposed to paying $10 for a 4" square from bow companies, and I always keep some on hand for various uses.
Also while I used to scoff at the idea of using it, 3M makes an adhesive primer (Tape Primer 94) in a small can that if you never want something sticky back (velcro, this padded stuff etc.) to ever come off, or have something it doesn't like sticking to, the stuff is amazing. That said once it's stuck, it's stuck, and getting it off is possible but it's a lot of work.
Also while I used to scoff at the idea of using it, 3M makes an adhesive primer (Tape Primer 94) in a small can that if you never want something sticky back (velcro, this padded stuff etc.) to ever come off, or have something it doesn't like sticking to, the stuff is amazing. That said once it's stuck, it's stuck, and getting it off is possible but it's a lot of work.
Picked up the Bravo chassis for my old 10/22 just so my son would have a good chassis that fit him on that rifle. He's shot about 100 rounds out of it getting comfortable. He just took second place at his first 22 match today! He's pretty stoked. Wouldn't have been possible without the Bravo, and of course kick ass glass!
