KRG Whiskey-3: Am I just too perfectionist?

[Mike Casselton]

I think you should pull your scope off the rail, level your rifle and then check level on each portion of the rail with a small tube level.

Then, get back with us on how out of spec your scope rail is.

Next, get a set of pin gauges and measure your trigger and action mount holes.
Then check the diameter of your trigger pins and their length.

Don't forget to use a calibrated scale to set your trigger pull weight.

From there, I'd recommend you check diameter and thread pitch of your action mount bolts.
And since we're on that subject, you probably want to have your torque wrench calibrated and verify your bit fits your action screws correctly.

Next would be to verify how much primary extraction you have and to measure ejection angle and distance. Note: weigh your brass, it'll affect ejection distance. Moon phase will too.

You'll need to contour your buttpad to match up with your shoulder/collarbone angles.


I'd also point out how you should set your rifle balance using a knife blade for the ultimate in perfectly balanced shooting. Clothing matters, so you would probably need to have more than one setup due to winter and summer shooting.






I'll have to get back with you on all the other "important" things you should measure. Right now, I've got to go and take a dump.

Would you like me to weigh and measure it for you?

 

[Cascade Hemi]

the action contact surface is a curve so not that easy to measure, but the action side (rear) wall is holding a tigher tolerance in comparison to the front side according to my measure.

this chassis is prepared for my next build, so i cannot tell the experience tightening the screw as of now. btw, is it common to bed the tactical style chassis like W-3? I did try bedding one cheap boyds stock once, it's a nightmare lol.

Common? Probably not as common as it should be but not uncommon either. Do you think your stock is the exception or the norm? I'd bet they're all like that. Further, a CNC mill cutting a billet doesn't hold a tighter tolerance in one section of the operation than another section. If the tolerance is +/-.005" then the entire part is +/-.005".

 

[Ziloooo]

Common? Probably not as common as it should be but not uncommon either. Do you think your stock is the exception or the norm? I'd bet they're all like that. Further, a CNC mill cutting a billet doesn't hold a tighter tolerance in one section of the operation than another section. If the tolerance is +/-.005" then the entire part is +/-.005".

yeah, i agree....feel much ease right now

idk, probabaly a machinist can answer that, like if the part is machined in multi-pass will cause the tolerance different in sections?

 

[chevy_man]

Thanks for your valuable inputs.

Initially i noticed is the misalignment on barrel tunnel between spigot and the backbone, this indicates the mating surface between the spigot and the backbone is not parallel to the top surface of the backbone, though from my eye, the concentricity is okay.

Then I guess it might be the backbone being:

• tilted, in this case if i put the bakcbone on a leveled surface, the measures should be not leveled but haves the same reading on different measurement points
• twsisted, this turn out to be the case, where one the same surface, the measure is different from rear to front

I sent it back to KRG, they fixed the spigot misalignment and sent it back. I asked how's the fix, they skipped this question. I measured the level again, and asked if it is considered within spec (multiple times), they didn't answer as well....

Because you're being a pain in the ass customer that they hope just goes away.

They actually know what they're doing, they know they're about to catch blame for things far outside their control, and they're likely stopping short of calling you out for measuring something on a wooden table with a garbage level out of politeness.


Go spend a few $ on a granite surface plate and starett machinist levels, some .0001 dial indicators, and solid indicator fixtures.
Then you could actually measure it.



Then after all that, it would have zero effect on the way it shoots.

 

[Ziloooo]

Because you're being a pain in the ass customer that they hope just goes away.

They actually know what they're doing, they know they're about to catch blame for things far outside their control, and they're likely stopping short of calling you out for measuring something on a wooden table with a garbage level out of politeness.


Go spend a few $ on a granite surface plate and starett machinist levels, some .0001 dial indicators, and solid indicator fixtures.
Then you could actually measure it.



Then after all that, it would have zero effect on the way it shoots.

I may not be the 'model customer' that say nothing for what makes me uncomfortable and just take it because 'it has no effect'. As I said in an earlier post, being just functional should be the bottomline not all a product should pursuit.

Back to your advice, I'm neither a gunsmith or a machinist that runs a shop, why do i need to invest in all those expensive instruments to verify if their machining is within spec? they didn't pay me QC and indeed, I paid for their product. If my garbage shitty torpedo level says yes, the Mitutoyo may disagree. If my garbage shit say no, i don't think any more advance instrucment would say a yes.

Believe it or not, they, before shipped it back, put the chassis on to the vise in their shop, took the measure on leveling, and sent me the video. You know how they verify the level is the same across the backbone? they use the iPhone measure, not the gucci starett machinist levels you mentioned. And from the video I can see the level changed but you know, the iPhone will not warn if the tilt is within 1 degree but the reference bar will show.

No offense, i know the machining perfection on some parts is not crucial for the end result and appreciate your comments. But I don't understand how some customers got trained to be not picky and being didactic and mean onto anyone who's being picky.

I don't want them annoyed as well, and my ask is not: why the tolerance is not 0.001", re-do until it holds 0.001". My ask is simply, verify if that's within spec. If they say yes (and better if they really measure their other batch of products), I'm all good with what I have.

 

[Basher]

I always chuckle about these KRG chassis threads. My favorite is when the grips don’t line up perfectly with the backbone plastics and people absolutely lose their crap over it lol.

As others have noted, put the rifle back together and then go shoot it. If you like how it feels and it shoots, you don’t have a problem in reality, only in your mind. If it won’t shoot, them there’s a (small) chance the chassis’s contributing to whatever your issue is.

KRG makes a fantastic chassis overall. Is it tHe BeStEsT?!?! No, there are chassis systems that are more complex, more precise, and cost a helluva lot more. But is it a great value on the whole for the amount of adjustment and customization it offers? Sure. Like anything else on a rifle though, if it doesn’t fit you for whatever reason (real or imagined), sell it and buy something else. There’s no shortage of chassis and stock options out there. I like my KRG products, they work phenomenally well for what I paid for them. But I could go get an AICS, XLR, MDT, JAE, McMillan, Manners, or whatever else if I wasn’t happy with them.

 

[Jscb1b]

Just grind the high side down and rattle can it.

 

[Ziloooo]

I always chuckle about these KRG chassis threads. My favorite is when the grips don’t line up perfectly with the backbone plastics and people absolutely lose their crap over it lol.

As others have noted, put the rifle back together and then go shoot it. If you like how it feels and it shoots, you don’t have a problem in reality, only in your mind. If it won’t shoot, them there’s a (small) chance the chassis’s contributing to whatever your issue is.

KRG makes a fantastic chassis overall. Is it tHe BeStEsT?!?! No, there are chassis systems that are more complex, more precise, and cost a helluva lot more. But is it a great value on the whole for the amount of adjustment and customization it offers? Sure. Like anything else on a rifle though, if it doesn’t fit you for whatever reason (real or imagined), sell it and buy something else. There’s no shortage of chassis and stock options out there. I like my KRG products, they work phenomenally well for what I paid for them. But I could go get an AICS, XLR, MDT, JAE, McMillan, Manners, or whatever else if I wasn’t happy with them.

I agree with what you're saying. I think I have the same feeling, but just need to re-calibrate my expectation.

In my point, the 'twist' is not acceptable or should be controled tightly. The wall height is okay to a loose tolerance even i don't know if 0.015" is considered good but I'm in general okay with that.

After @Evintos point out the problem and I re-took the measure, turning out it's not the twist and I'm pretty much comfortable now.

 

[Mumzergadol]

Answer to op question. Yes

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Ummm just need the chassis itself, so with the barreled action removed. ARCA rail attached is fine as the rail surface is supposed to be parallel to the bottom surface of the forend.

Yeah, the backbone, but also the forend and them combined seem twisted as in my original post. It would be helpful enough if you can measure them combined, no need to set them apart. The twist can be seen by naked eye from the difference on bubble position.

Tbh, this all start by misalignment on barrel tunnel between spigot and backbone, which is pretty observable by naked eye without any instrument (like this torpedo as you said lol). The issue on twist is just a side product when I try to findout where's exactly the issue.

example:
View attachment 8421373Rear (bubble within line)
View attachment 8421376Middle (bubble touch the line)
View attachment 8421374Front (bubble cross the line)

I do not have a chassis with nothing in it. All of mine have barreled actions in them, and other stuff, this is what I'm saying.

 

[fdkay]

They did get back to me pretty fast (ususally ~1 hour) at the beginning. And they began to reply me slower (next day) or no reply since I started bugging them with the 'if this kind of twist is within spec' question lol

Maybe because they're holding competition / attending NRA conference these days? I still have faith on them

Sounds to me like they got tired of listening to you.

 

[Proviteer]

Everything in your photos looks fine, I am willing to bet KRG is out of answers for your questions and are hoping you will fade away. As others have said, put the thing back together finish your build and go shoot. If you want to call that "recalibrating your expectations" go for it!

 

[Basher]

As others have said, put the thing back together finish your build and go shit.

Yeah, a good bowel movement usually has me feeling better about things too, but somehow I don’t think that’s what you had in mind…

 

[Proviteer]

Yeah, a good bowel movement usually has me feeling better about things too, but somehow I don’t think that’s what you had in mind…

Thank you, autocorrect had a bit of a potty mouth. Typo corrected.

 

[Ziloooo]

I do not have a chassis with nothing in it. All of mine have barreled actions in them, and other stuff, this is what I'm saying.

since it turned out not twisted but more of the regular machining error on the z-axis (don't judge me if I use the wrong term), would you like to measure the length of the red mark from the right side and the left side if you have a caliper? no need to set apart anything in this case.

 

[Ziloooo]

Everything in your photos looks fine, I am willing to bet KRG is out of answers for your questions and are hoping you will fade away. As others have said, put the thing back together finish your build and go shoot. If you want to call that "recalibrating your expectations" go for it!

yeah, that's why i came here to seek peace of mind....and glad I did hear some useful advices / diagnosis

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

since it turned out not twisted but more of the regular machining error on the z-axis (don't judge me if I use the wrong term), would you like to measure the length of the red mark from the right side and the left side if you have a caliper? no need to set apart anything in this case.
View attachment 8421574

Arca is .1980"

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

The other one had the enclosed forend on it so pretty hard to get to.

 

[Ziloooo]

Arca is .1980"

Thank you so much! This is helpful. So I think 0.010 ~ 0.020 inch diff might be realistic for the front.

Would you want to measure somewhere closer to the action? I noticed the diff is tighter on the action side.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Thank you so much! This is helpful. So I think 0.010 ~ 0.020 inch diff might be realistic for the front.

Would you want to measure somewhere closer to the action? I noticed the diff is tighter on the action side.

You're right. 1.634" from under the forend itself to the top rail right beside the action. Other side is 1.631" so that's dead nuts. My measuring accuracy is limited due to not being sure I'm square on both sides with calipers but yes it's a ton tighter from one side to the other there on both chassis 's

 

[Ziloooo]

You're right. 1.634" from under the forend itself to the top rail right beside the action. Other side is 1.631" so that's dead nuts. My measuring accuracy is limited due to not being sure I'm square on both sides with calipers but yes it's a ton tighter from one side to the other there on both chassis 's

Perfect!

Thanks for confirming and bearing my OCD. After tens of posts in the thread leting me 'sit back and shoot' persuading me 'no impact' you are the one actually showing some real examples Much appreciated!

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Perfect!

Thanks for confirming and bearing my OCD. After tens of posts in the thread leting me 'sit back and shoot' persuading me 'no impact' you are the one actually showing some real examples Much appreciated!

No problem. If it bugs you and to find out it's normal gets it off your mind so you can go shoot, then I'm glad I could help. Its a really good chassis that's comfy. I have 2 vision chassis as well and a manners stock. I've had several others through the years too and there's a reason I've kept the W3 and gotten other krg chassis for other rifles. For competition, the Vision reins Supreme for me but the W3 is one I can lay on all day. It's a great chassis and is super popular for a reason

 

[Ziloooo]

No problem. If it bugs you and to find out it's normal gets it off your mind so you can go shoot, then I'm glad I could help. Its a really good chassis that's comfy. I have 2 vision chassis as well and a manners stock. I've had several others through the years too and there's a reason I've kept the W3 and gotten other krg chassis for other rifles. For competition, the Vision reins Supreme for me but the W3 is one I can lay on all day. It's a great chassis and is super popular for a reason

Your response makes me feel much better. This is my first KRG and W-3 is a beautiful one in its price range

 

[iceng]

Oh…. This is a PRS rig. Primary concern is not “does it work.” Primary concern is “does it have enough space for swag stickers” and “does the color match my replica jersey.

But, for real. PRS production class has a limit of $2500. If your “open rifle” cost less than this (before optics), well, GBPSE…

Hahahah.. go be poor somewhere else.

I love it.

Im gonna add.... KRG use extruded rail, not machined billet. (I could be wrong.. doubt it.. fight me).

Extrusion of low quality has twist in it. Also extrusion which is perfectly straight will warp or stress relieve as soon as you cut or drill it, and introduce warp or twist.

If you have a giant slab of alloy, say 4m by 3m and 150mm thick, and cut it into sections and leave it on raw concrete for a day, they will twist. The pieces only have to be 600x200x150mm.
You need to sit them on wood or plastic pallets, and not touching each other.

What you are asking about (i didnt say complaining) is out of their control. Im speculating that KRG knows of this issue, but they are not making aero / space grade parts, they are making a rifle chassis to a budget for maximum profit.

 

[-H-]

I’d use a micrometer to check that level, then use another micrometer to check that micrometer to make sure it’s calibrated. Then probably calibrate the calibrator too.

 

[lariat]

Hahahah.. go be poor somewhere else.

I love it.

Im gonna add.... KRG use extruded rail, not machined billet. (I could be wrong.. doubt it.. fight me).

Extrusion of low quality has twist in it. Also extrusion which is perfectly straight will warp or stress relieve as soon as you cut or drill it, and introduce warp or twist.

If you have a giant slab of alloy, say 4m by 3m and 150mm thick, and cut it into sections and leave it on raw concrete for a day, they will twist. The pieces only have to be 600x200x150mm.
You need to sit them on wood or plastic pallets, and not touching each other.

What you are asking about (i didnt say complaining) is out of their control. Im speculating that KRG knows of this issue, but they are not making aero / space grade parts, they are making a rifle chassis to a budget for maximum profit.

Iceng is correct, especially regarding stress relief. For low tolerance parts there is simply going to be things that really don’t matter that we all need to live with. IOW, these aren’t aerospace level tolerance components in certain areas and you don’t want to pay for and it is not critical, within reason obviously. Take it and run with it. As long as the critical surfaces are good, rock on.

 

[Ziloooo]

Hahahah.. go be poor somewhere else.

I love it.

Im gonna add.... KRG use extruded rail, not machined billet. (I could be wrong.. doubt it.. fight me).

Extrusion of low quality has twist in it. Also extrusion which is perfectly straight will warp or stress relieve as soon as you cut or drill it, and introduce warp or twist.

If you have a giant slab of alloy, say 4m by 3m and 150mm thick, and cut it into sections and leave it on raw concrete for a day, they will twist. The pieces only have to be 600x200x150mm.
You need to sit them on wood or plastic pallets, and not touching each other.

What you are asking about (i didnt say complaining) is out of their control. Im speculating that KRG knows of this issue, but they are not making aero / space grade parts, they are making a rifle chassis to a budget for maximum profit.

wow thanks for the info

you're the 2nd person in this thread mentioning the extrution. KRG only mentions 'CNC’d into aluminum backbone' so it can be extrude first then drill / mill by cnc? (i don't really know).

i'm thinking the same if KRG knows this issue and has actually a QC for it. however, if it turns out to be the wall height difference, the measurement onto dimention should be pretty basic, and they should have a definite answer for their tolerance, e.g., +- 0.050 or something.

Again, i'm not expecting them producing non-critical part to be wire EDM-tight tolerance but just want to confirm mine is not the outlier.

 

[Makinchips208]

wow thanks for the info

you're the 2nd person in this thread mentioning the extrution. KRG only mentions 'CNC’d into aluminum backbone' so it can be extrude first then drill / mill by cnc? (i don't really know).

i'm thinking the same if KRG knows this issue and has actually a QC for it. however, if it turns out to be the wall height difference, the measurement onto dimention should be pretty basic, and they should have a definite answer for their tolerance, e.g., +- 0.050 or something.

Again, i'm not expecting them producing non-critical part to be wire EDM-tight tolerance but just want to confirm mine is not the outlier.

Extrusions can be plain Bar stock or special shapes. So no matter which, there is potential for distortion during or after machining. Whether the final product is distorted or not has to do entirely with the machining process.
Krg website says “made from billet aluminum”. that most likely means extruded 6061.

Contrast that to the xylo, where they specify they use 7075, which still can distort after cutting, but compared to 6061 it is more expensive, harder to cut and has like twice the tensile strength.

Unless a company states otherwise, I assume they use extruded 6061. An assumption.

 

[Ziloooo]

Extrusions can be plain Bar stock or special shapes. So no matter which, there is potential for distortion during or after machining. Whether the final product is distorted or not has to do entirely with the machining process.
Krg website says “made from billet aluminum”. that most likely means extruded 6061.

Contrast that to the xylo, where they specify they use 7075, which still can distort after cutting, but compared to 6061 it is more expensive, harder to cut and has like twice the tensile strength.

Unless a company states otherwise, I assume they use extruded 6061. An assumption.

another piece of info great to know!

btw, the part KRG on their website that mentioned billet is their buttstock 'CNC milled from billet aluminum' instead of the backbone / chassis. Ironically i think the buttstock is the weak point in W-3 design. They did make some improvement on their buttstock design on their flagship model C4 though.

 

[Makinchips208]

another piece of info great to know!

btw, the part KRG on their website that mentioned billet is their buttstock 'CNC milled from billet aluminum' instead of the backbone / chassis. Ironically i think the buttstock is the weak point in W-3 design. They did make some improvement on their buttstock design on their flagship model C4 though.

Good clarification. You are right, I didn’t catch that was specifically the buttstock.

 

[308pirate]

the action contact surface is a curve so not that easy to measure, but the action side (rear) wall is holding a tigher tolerance in comparison to the front side according to my measure.

this chassis is prepared for my next build, so i cannot tell the experience tightening the screw as of now. btw, is it common to bed the tactical style chassis like W-3? I did try bedding one cheap boyds stock once, it's a nightmare lol.

You have 0 idea of what you're talking about.

Your "measurements" are a joke and so is this thread.

KRG is ignoring you on purpose.

 

[Mike Casselton]

You have 0 idea of what you're talking about.

Your "measurements" are a joke and so is this thread.

KRG is ignoring you on purpose.

I like how they are measuring three different surfaces at the same time.

One item is injection moulded plastic.

Combine the errors, especially the plastic and then complain about the tolerances.

What a fucking joke.

 

[hlee]

As someone in a “customer facing role,” ignoring a customer is really poor form for CS. But, sometimes emails get lost in the shuffle. We all get a ton of spam, and the filters can’t be too fine when you’re expecting unsolicited fuckery from non-contacts.

 

[carbonbased]

@Ziloooo man, I have been super casually returning to this thread, mostly to see if a shitstorm has developed.

To your credit, you haven’t busted an aorta and gone apeshit.

But I didn’t realize that in your measurements you are including an injected moulded plastic part.

C’mon man.

I’m not an engineer and even I know that you don’t expect inject moulded plastic to be anywhere near perfect. And that thin Arca rail? Pffft! (I own a W3 and Bravo btw)

If your actual aluminum backbone was twisted a lot, especially where your action/lug interfaces, then you’d have something to think about.

Your autism is getting the best of you.

 

[carbonbased]

(waiting for OP to completely disassemble chassis to measure raw aluminum backbone, all thread pitches, coating depths, weights, etc etc)

 

[Ziloooo]

@Ziloooo man, I have been super casually returning to this thread, mostly to see if a shitstorm has developed.

To your credit, you haven’t busted an aorta and gone apeshit.

But I didn’t realize that in your measurements you are including an injected moulded plastic part.

C’mon man.

I’m not an engineer and even I know that you don’t expect inject moulded plastic to be anywhere near perfect. And that thin Arca rail? Pffft! (I own a W3 and Bravo btw)

If your actual aluminum backbone was twisted a lot, especially where your action/lug interfaces, then you’d have something to think about.

Your autism is getting the best of you.

you own a W3 and Bravo, then you should know the ARCA and the forend are threaded into the backbone. I agree the injected modeled in between could be an issue but I cannot ask the one who's willing to take measure for me to disassemble his established rifle and measure individual parts.

And for sure you're not owing the W3 Comp version, because the Comp version has aluminum forend with ARCA integrated. My measure doesn't involve any plastic part. (and now you see how arrogant some spoilers who judge on their own imagination are)

 

[Cascade Hemi]

The only parts of the chassis that effect accuracy are the action mounting surfaces. Whether you like the design, fit, and finish is strictly preference.

 

[Ziloooo]

You have 0 idea of what you're talking about.

Your "measurements" are a joke and so is this thread.

KRG is ignoring you on purpose.

if you know something, say someting, educate me and the community
or else, do me a favor, 'unwatch' the thread and 'ignore' my post. por favor.

 

[308pirate]

I like how they are measuring three different surfaces at the same time.

One item is injection moulded plastic.

Combine the errors, especially the plastic and then complain about the tolerances.

What a fucking joke.

Yeah his entire setup is one big shitshow and he expects anyone to take his "measurements" seriously.

EL-OH-fucking-EL

 

[308pirate]

if you know something, say someting, educate me and the community
or else, do me a favor, unwatch the thread and 'ignore' my post. por favor.

My engineering and metrology consulting rate begins at $250/hr

 

[Mike Casselton]

Yeah his entire setup is one big shitshow and he expects anyone to take his "measurements" seriously.

EL-OH-fucking-EL

He pointed out right up there the forend isn't plastic.

He still doesn't understand he's combining measurements of three separate pieces and treating them as one...


OPs title should have said: I'm super COD and nutty. Please be nutty with me so I feel better.

 

[Ziloooo]

He pointed out right up there the forend isn't plastic.

He still doesn't understand he's combining measurements of three separate pieces and treating them as one...


OPs title should have said: I'm super COD and nutty. Please be nutty with me so I feel better.

Only two pieces in my combo. I observed the issue with two piece combined, them I measured with two piece combined, any issue here? given I'm not further interested in their root cause.

 

[Ziloooo]

My engineering and metrology consulting rate begins at $250/hr

i'm willing to pay the $0.050 for each tolling comment, i bet you can earn more than $250/h under the new job

 

[ballisticdaddy]

This is a mass produced item that has a combination of extruded, machined and molded polymer parts. After reading the product page the only portion of this chassis they claim to be precisely machined is the aluminum bedding into the backbone. Not sure how you come away thinking this chassis is a finely tuned precision CNC milled work of art. Toss a barreled action in there and you will not be able to tell by looking at the target. Just for reference below is the general info from the KRG site and notice NO mention of anything CNC machined on the forend:

The Whiskey-3 Chassis (W3C) (Generation 6 Chassis)Forend:

• Polymer to keep your hand away from hot metal in the summer and cold metal in the winter
• Threaded mounting holes at various positions, total of 15-20.
• Access hole for action mounting screw, so you can remove the action without removing forend.
• Side mounting options for rail, flush mount QD sling plate, external QD cup, etc on both sides of forend. Ships with one QD cup on the left side.

“Backbone”/Chassis:

• Utilizes radius bedding, which is CNC’d into aluminum backbone for consistent contact between action and chassis.
• Hardened stainless steel recoil lug instead of aluminum ones found on stock T3’s.
• Rem 700 version can accommodate most large aftermarket recoil lugs like the Badger Ordnance lug without any or with only slight modification.
• Designed for 5 or 10 round AICS magazines (with or without front spacer plate in T3, with spacer plate only in Rem 700 unless you have a modified action); Rem 700 LA now uses 3.850″ length AICS pattern magazines.
• Barrel contours accepted: 1.25″ for 4″ in front of action face, then 1.20″ straight to end of forend. A 1.25″ straight cylinder barrel will fit but we feel that the clearance is too minimal. We recommend using no larger than a varmint contour to keep proper balance.

 

[Ziloooo]

This is a mass produced item that has a combination of extruded, machined and molded polymer parts. After reading the product page the only portion of this chassis they claim to be precisely machined is the aluminum bedding into the backbone. Not sure how you come away thinking this chassis is a finely tuned precision CNC milled work of art. Toss a barreled action in there and you will not be able to tell by looking at the target. Just for reference below is the general info from the KRG site and notice NO mention of anything CNC machined on the forend:

The Whiskey-3 Chassis (W3C) (Generation 6 Chassis)Forend:

• Polymer to keep your hand away from hot metal in the summer and cold metal in the winter
• Threaded mounting holes at various positions, total of 15-20.
• Access hole for action mounting screw, so you can remove the action without removing forend.
• Side mounting options for rail, flush mount QD sling plate, external QD cup, etc on both sides of forend. Ships with one QD cup on the left side.

“Backbone”/Chassis:

• Utilizes radius bedding, which is CNC’d into aluminum backbone for consistent contact between action and chassis.
• Hardened stainless steel recoil lug instead of aluminum ones found on stock T3’s.
• Rem 700 version can accommodate most large aftermarket recoil lugs like the Badger Ordnance lug without any or with only slight modification.
• Designed for 5 or 10 round AICS magazines (with or without front spacer plate in T3, with spacer plate only in Rem 700 unless you have a modified action); Rem 700 LA now uses 3.850″ length AICS pattern magazines.
• Barrel contours accepted: 1.25″ for 4″ in front of action face, then 1.20″ straight to end of forend. A 1.25″ straight cylinder barrel will fit but we feel that the clearance is too minimal. We recommend using no larger than a varmint contour to keep proper balance.

yeah, you're right, it's just me over expecting a CNC'd part especially their core component - backbone. I think many of you get me wrong, I'm not expeting it to be perfect to 1 thou precision, but when I can notice something even by naked eye and my crapping DIY tool, I just want to make sure it's within spec or I just out of luck. It's that simple.

If the chassis doesn't come with the spigot and I didn't get a chance to notice the misalignment in the first place, I would have never interested in the dimention of backbone / forend.

 

[ballisticdaddy]

yeah, you're right, it's just me over expecting a CNC'd part especially their core component - backbone. I think many of you get me wrong, I'm not expeting it to be perfect to 1 thou precision, but when I can notice something even by my crapping DIY tool, I just want to make sure it's within spec or I just out of luck. It's that simple.

So the only one that knows what within "spec" is would be KRG and sounds like you have already worn those folks out. In reading through 2 pages of this thread I see you picking apart items that were not your initial concern so why not just sell it so you can sleep at night.

 

[Ziloooo]

So the only one that knows what within "spec" is would be KRG and sounds like you have already worn those folks out. In reading through 2 pages of this thread I see you picking apart items that were not your initial concern so why not just sell it so you can sleep at night.

probably cuz I still love it (damn!).....actually I'm not feeling too bad now given it turns out not the whole part twist and there's just about 0.014" diff between wall height (backbone / forend combined).

 

[oldrifleman]

So the only one that knows what within "spec" is would be KRG and sounds like you have already worn those folks out. In reading through 2 pages of this thread I see you picking apart items that were not your initial concern so why not just sell it so you can sleep at night.

Yeah I have been reading this nut show and there is a continued mention of being "out of spec". Have you seen the "spec"? Have you seen the allowable tolerances on the part or parts? There is also the issue of tolerance stackup that can cause an item to appear "out of spec" when actually it is not. As has been said, Shoot the rifle, enjoy the Bang, but sitting there staring at it will drive you even nuttier than we think you are.

 

[Ziloooo]

Yeah I have been reading this nut show and there is a continued mention of being "out of spec". Have you seen the "spec"? Have you seen the allowable tolerances on the part or parts? There is also the issue of tolerance stackup that can cause an item to appear "out of spec" when actually it is not. As has been said, Shoot the rifle, enjoy the Bang, but sitting there staring at it will drive you even nuttier than we think you are.

Yes sir!

 

[ironpony52]

So to put it in perspective for you in my world, everything I build on a CNC machine is plus or -7 µm. There are 25 µm in .001 of an inch so when you say .010 I am thinking 250 µm, Scrap.

The part you are looking at the tolerance, you are measuring as inconsequential to the function of the part without knowing the manufacturer spec. That part is probably perfect to them. Will it drive you nuts if you let it? Yes.

In my opinion, should it be better? yes