Guys,
You do not need to include the capacitor and resistor as seen in the earlier posts. The vibration switch works just as well by itself.
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The circuit in the first post which includes other components is an earlier design from someone who thought a gun's violent recoil would register multiple shots as the switch settles in the recoil. The capacitor and resistor is a simple circuit designed to absorb the false trigger after-shocks as the vibration settles. This is not needed however as the radar does this for you by turning off for two seconds.
Labradar has an inbuilt two-second cutoff designed to register only once per shot. You can see this in action by looking at the orange Arm light. On registering a shot it goes off for two seconds. It will not register another shot until it comes on again.
If you exclude the other components and don't bother with a clamping mechanism you can make your trigger small enough that it fits inside the battery compartment for storage. With external power packs no-one uses the battery compartment anyway so you may as well use it for this. Fit the SW-18010p vibration switch inside a 3.5mm socket which is conveniently the same size as a AA battery. The 1M male-to-male cord is wrapped up in an elastic band and the band is what you attach it to the rifle with.
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No need to complicate the switch any more than it needs to be like in these earlier models below. They include the more complicated circuit in the first post and a Picatinny clamping mechanism. The one on the left is a cheap Chinesium bubble level on the left, and a rubber rail cover on the right. While they work, and a clamping mechanism is sexy, they are no better than the switch by itself and a simple elastic band. Plus, not all rifles have rails.
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Not registering on a suppressed .22.
(1) Use the most sensitive of the three types of SW-180XX switches, and (2) positioning the switch to best effect. The '18010' switch is the most sensitive - I use this, not the 18020, and definitely not the least sensitive 18030. The second part of the fix is attaching the coil of the switch at right angles to the recoil. Note the picture below where these vibration switches are a coil that wobbles around a fixed post. If you know the attitude of the switch you can attach it so the coil is most likely to move in the recoil. Like the example on the right which is a .22. Attach the switch as far forward on the gun where the recoil will move the gun the most, and at right angles. Plus remove as much weight to help it jump; remove the bipod or even that torch in the photo.
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As for when the radar registers a shot while you move the gun or work the action. Just ignore the instruction on the screen to press a button. Keep shooting, it will reset itself when it registers the next shot.
A SW18010p switch by itself in a socket with cable and elastic band works fine.
