The one cuts better than the other theory is BS. You are opening up a big can of worms with this debate. It's a major Ford versus Chevy thing. If you ask an old die hard American Iron machinist he'll tell you to go three phase and mortgage your house to pay for a US machine and wire your house for three phase etc. For the "non production" guy that might chamber on 50 rifles in the next 5 years, your single phase smaller machine is just fine. If you are shopping for a machine based on whether or not it has a coolant pump or not, that's probably not what you should be looking at. Three phase motors are more efficient, have more starting torque and typically more robust. But we are more than likely talking about machines in the 2-4hp range here. You are not going to be able to tell the difference on your light bill! Single phase motors have starting capacitors that overcome any lower starting torques noticed. If a cap goes bad, replace it for $10. If a phase converter or VFD goes bad.....well lets just say it's cost you A Lot more than $10. Hell, just replace the single phase motor and that'll still be cheaper than buying all the crap to run a 3ph motor in your garage. All that being said, If I was putting another machine in my shop and I already had three phase power, I would buy a three phase machine. Which is what I just did, I found a nice old Clausing drill press and love it. I love all the old American Iron, but they are not necessary for a hobbyist to produce very fine work. Attached are pictures of some various bits I've done on a Grizzly 1ph lathe that came nicely tooled out right from the factory. The faceplate spider is something I copied from bald eagle but was done with a piece of 316SS and that's the surface finish "as cut". Same with the muzzle brake except for the "after" picture with it polished. A single phase machine, if it's not some worn out unit, will cut nice work for a long time if taken care of. Is that lathe perfect? No. Little things like the paint and sharp edges on some of the castings etc. remind you it came from china. But structurally, it's a great machine. It's got an adequate spindle through hole, 2hp, an outboard spider(so I wouldn't have to build another) and all the rests and chucks etc. Be sure to look at the spindle bore size and if it has room to add an outboard spider, on anything you are looking for. They are a lot more important than continuous coolant while chambering. I've done some continuous fluid/flushing while reaming and I could ream a chamber a lot faster that way but has since gone back to the manual , oil, cut, pull reamer, rinse, re-oil, cut, pull reamer etc etc method. Be thinking about containing the fluid and the mess it makes on your machine when you use a pressure fluid system. Imagine putting your finger into the hole on the end of a garden hose and then pulling it out. How does the fluid spray when you uncork it? Get the picture? If I was trying to ream 50 chambers next week, I would set it back up and "get 'er done". But I'm not, so I use the other method. Works for me.