DOD? What does it stand for?Nice! I have both as well. Black is 16" .308 and FDE will be 20" 6.5. DOD cerakotes to match the LMT FDE I believe. I'm going to wait for a FDE lower drop.
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DOD? What does it stand for?Nice! I have both as well. Black is 16" .308 and FDE will be 20" 6.5. DOD cerakotes to match the LMT FDE I believe. I'm going to wait for a FDE lower drop.
distributors of democracyDOD? What does it stand for?
Not exactly…..
Ask redacted concepts. He does top notch workView attachment 8125036
Huad ot her fo a pimp!
2x 15.3”s! Now the decision to keep both or not. Any one know who can Ceracoat LMT lowers including the safe and fire logos on a lower?? I know there’s someone that does it.
Anybody should be able to do that. Factory cerakote is H-265 Flat Dark Earth.Huad ot her fo a pimp!
2x 15.3”s! Now the decision to keep both or not. Any one know who can Ceracoat LMT lowers including the safe and fire logos on a lower?? I know there’s someone that does it.
I have removed my barrel without having to remove my bipod attachment. I think the issue may be if you have rails installed on the sides. Also to add after getting down to the end of this thread, I havent had to trim anything off my mlok nuts. Might depend on rail manufacturerThe quick change barrel system isn't so quick change for any Mlok uppers FYI. All mounted hardware in Mlok slots has to be removed before there's enough clearance for the barrel to be removed... In my case that includes a picatinny section for tripod, picatinny section for bipod, and picatinny section for laser. Non-issue for those shooting without any attachments, but worth mentioning before someone thinks the barrel is truly 2 bolts away from being swapped.
Virtually all bolts today will work with the MWS.On second thought is there any bolt assembly that will work with the LMT carrier?
I saw that but thought it would have to be headspaced. I’m thinking now of doing a jp barrel and bolt. Having Wilson convert it and having an adjustable gas blockVirtually all bolts today will work with the MWS.
Aero, toolcraft, kak, JP, lantec. At one point d. Wilson sold some uppers with kak bolts.
I saw that but thought it would have to be headspaced. I’m thinking now of doing a jp barrel and bolt. Having Wilson convert it and having an adjustable gas block
As far as I know armalite is still the odd one out. They’ll work in the mws carrier but have to match the barrel. I want to say the bolt face is ~.004-5” deeper.Virtually all bolts today will work with the MWS.
Aero, toolcraft, kak, JP, lantec. At one point d. Wilson sold some uppers with kak bolts.
Oh i see. So theoretically should be able to use whatever bolt and barrel as long as it’s the same pattern?Having a bolt "headspaced" is not a thing.
The headspace is set when the barrel is chambered, the only thing you can do is confirm that the headspace is within the min/max SAMMI specification with a given bolt using go and no-go headspace gauges. There's no adjustment. It's either good or bad.
It’ll be interesting to see if this in fact the old 15.5” design or the new 15.3”.Home
AR 10 Assembled Upper Receivers come with the forward assist and dust cover pre installed while allowing you to choose your barrel and handguard.www.primaryarms.com
Never shot it unsuppressed, so I guess that would be a thing to do regardless. Ejection is forward, and the brass always has a “D” shape dent in the case mouth opening. Muzzle device is P&W, so BRT would be the way to address the gas.To establish a baseline: How does the rifle run with the silencer off?
What’s your ejection pattern look like unsuppressed and then suppressed? Cases ejecting towards the 1-1:30 or closer to 2:30-3:00?
LMT MWS rifles are notoriously over gassed (which aides in battlefield reliability), but makes using suppressors (even low backpressure cans) problematic.
From some of the symptoms your describing I’d definitely try a BRT 50/50 gas tube to see if that corrects the FTE issues unless you want to send to Dave Wilson for an adjustable gas block modification. You might also need to experiment with a slash extra heavy buffer (8 oz) and spring to slow down the BCG and smooth the gas out.
What do your 100 yard groups look like? Do they trend upwards with heat? Or randomly up and down?
Vertical stringing is typically improper breathing (mainly if prone), inconsistent loading of the bipod, or shoulder pressure into the rifle if using a rear bag, giving up on the shot...basically relaxing the rear bag hand at the same time the trigger is pressed.
Definitely clean, pull, and properly retorq the barrel to spec (140 in/lbs)
Forward ejection, case ejector marks, and case dent’s can definitely be symptoms of an over gassed system. Even if the barrel is P&W if you want to go adjustable gas block I’m confident Dave Wilson can do it.Never shot it unsuppressed, so I guess that would be a thing to do regardless. Ejection is forward, and the brass always has a “D” shape dent in the case mouth opening. Muzzle device is P&W, so BRT would be the way to address the gas.
I definitely won’t say my shooting isn’t above criticism haha. I am shooting off a bipod. Would shooting off a bag be better at removing that variable? I’ve never really had an issue with vertical stringing this bad, but it is a new gun to me so I wouldn’t rule anything out.
First thing I’ll do is pull and retorque the barrel, then fire two groups with each ammo. I read the FTE can also be attributed to loose barrel, but def seems gas related. The only puzzle is why it was fine for awhile, then showed up. I’ll see if that fixes anything before moving forward addressing the overgas possibility.
Barrel change procedures are pretty simple. Loosen rear bolt and remove front bolt, remove barrel. Once you remove the barrel, I would wipe down the barrel extension of any excess oil, I would not remove all oil with any sort of contact cleaner because a thin film of oil will help prevent any sort of corrosion but not effect accuracy. You can leave the bolts as is. Do not apply any sort of thread locker. To reinstall, lock the bolt to the rear, install the barrel into the upper, insert the front bolt and finger tighten. Return the bolt to the forward position, torque both bolts to 140 in/lbs. That is it.
Did not do that, I had the bolt removed...thanks for the heads up.Below are instructions LMT sent me via email for barrel replacement. A big takeaway for me is to close the bolt forward before tightening and torquing.
Was that stainless?Got out yesterday and shot a few groups with the 13.5. Fired 16 rounds, and had no FTE after removing and installing the barrel per above instructions. Small sample size, but based on past I was getting 1 in 5 FTE. I did not clean or oil BCG at all.
Groups didn’t really change. Was 1-2 MOA with IMI 175 (first 3 pictures) and the last picture is 178 eldx reloads (vertical string). Based on the difference in the groups, seems my vertical stringing is ammo based. Each charge was weighed on m500 scale, and was using new Norma brass with Varget. Need to do a proper OCW test.
I'll pick up a box of 168 and maybe 185 just to try. I think local Cabelas has them in stock. I don't have a chronograph so....Good to hear your FTE problems are gone.
3rd groups can be difficult to judge accuracy. Recommend shooting a couple 5rd control groups with FGMM 168gr and if you can your 175gr IMI before moving on to your reloads so you know what “your” rifle system is capable of.
What’s the average chronograph velocity’s on your groups by bullet weight?
Your 5rd reloaded group could be velocity related however, if shot 1-5 are descending in sequence that could be breathing and/ relaxing your rear bag = breaking the shot on the exhale or not keeping a consistent 2/3 squeeze on the rear bag = your groups settling lower and lower between shot 1-5.
Also recommend using a consistent refined aiming point based on the optic/reticle you have.
It is a chrome lined barrelWas that stainless?
Consistent bipod loading, recoil management, and cheekweld may eliminate some of the inconsistency.I'll pick up a box of 168 and maybe 185 just to try. I think local Cabelas has them in stock. I don't have a chronograph so....
The 5 rd reload group wasn't shot in descending order as labelled. Sorry for not being more accurate on that labeling. I don't remember the order other than I think the top 1 was first, and maybe the bottom was 3rd. So basically no consistent pattern.
Scope is an NX8 2.5-20. I'll try using a dot target next time.
It is a chrome lined barrel
Won't disregard at all, I am new to large frames. Appreciate the tips from you all and will incorporate them over the next few months.Consistent bipod loading, recoil management, and cheekweld may eliminate some of the inconsistency.
That isn’t a shot at you or your skill level as I don’t know how long you’ve been shooting a large frame. Just a suggestion if you’re new to them. If you’re an experienced shooter, disregard.
Additionally, I have found more consistency FOR ME, when pulling back hard into my shoulder and not loading the bipod too much. I say this to say, experiment with a few suggestions to find what works best for you.Won't disregard at all, I am new to large frames. Appreciate the tips from you all and will incorporate them over the next few months.
Additionally, I have found more consistency FOR ME, when pulling back hard into my shoulder and not loading the bipod too much. I say this to say, experiment with a few suggestions to find what works best for you.
The large frame are all .875 that I’ve seen and small frame are .750What is the ID of the gas block on LMT barrels? .750 or .875? About to order a seekin's select adjustable.
Perfect thank youThe large frame are all .875 that I’ve seen and small frame are .750
As far as I remember reading, they make their own barrels from Rock Creek blanksDoes anyone know who makes LMT's barrels? I know KAC makes their own barrels(except for the LPR).. does LMT make their own barrels also or do they outsource from someone..??
Thank you sir!As far as I remember reading, they make their own barrels from Rock Creek blanks
In my experience, in a 5 round group I’d usually have 3 to 4 in a minute or better and the rest pushing it to around 1.5. Some people say they get better than that but I wouldn’t count on it.Thank you sir!
What kinda groups would yall expect with match ammo from the 16" chrome lined?
I'm getting about .75 MOA from my 20" SS .308 at 200 yds with 168 SMK . I'm not a seasoned shooter, and granted I'm also shooting box ammo, so much better could be had. I'm sure 1 MOA can be done in a 16" CL with practice, good form and ammo.Thank you sir!
What kinda groups would yall expect with match ammo from the 16" chrome lined?
My best group with a 16' LW chrome lined barrel is around 1moa with American Marksmen 175 SMK from a bipod, rear bag, and LMT 2-stage trigger. I believe with better ammo and shooter it will go under an inch.Thank you sir!
What kinda groups would yall expect with match ammo from the 16" chrome lined?
Wouldnt be surprised...I’m pretty sure LMT is making their own barrels both cut rifled and button rifled chrome lined. They haven’t used Rock Creek in years.
Okay, well I was pretty sure LMT was cutting their own, but anyone know where else they would be sourcing their blanks from?I’m pretty sure LMT is making their own barrels both cut rifled and button rifled chrome lined. They haven’t used Rock Creek in years.