LMT .308 MWS

Recommended LMT MWS Modifications

After my recent trip to the range I have decided to address over gas issues and cartridge case damage with the following modifications. My rifle is not suppressed and I do not run a brake.

Install an adjustable gas key. I see there are at least two manufacturers, Rubber City Armory and ADIGS. Are there advantages over one compared to the other?

Break the pointed edges at the rear of the barrel extension lugs. Mine are cutting two deep parallel gouges on the case neck during ejection. I have found several discussions regarding this issue, but none clearly explain how to modify the rear of the barrel extension lugs. I would imagine easing the edge would correct the problem, but what are the proper contours and the best tools to achieve it? I found an inexpensive source for AR-10 barrel extensions and I think I will order one or two to practice on.

Remove a coil from the ejector springs to correct case dents from cases hitting the case deflector. I see some are just adding a piece of Velcro to the case deflector. Any recommendations here?

My rifle has the stock H3 buffer and stock LMT spring. Are there any advantages to upgrading these components?

BTW, I installed a POF roller cam pin for my new MWS upper and BCG and the wear pattern looks much better than my original MWS upper and BCG with factory LMT cam pin.

I would always suggest a Tubbs flat wire spring. Check out the videos about halfway through this link.


They work much better than standard and a no Brainer if not going with something like a JP SCS
 
I think you’re missing my point. Lmt tubes are straight. Drill the reduced port size in the “top” of the factory tube and run it upside down. Matter of fact, drill the new one straight through so it’ll last twice as long. The port in the tube is going to erode and increase in size resulting in the over gas condition returning.

I did miss that point. How would drilling it through help?

Edit
Oh the new one. So you can turn it upside down. You think these things will erode quickly?
 
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I did miss that point. How would drilling it through help?
Because then all you’d have to do is turn it over. I think Clint has stated that the gas tubes should last about 5k rounds. That’ll get you through a stainless 6.5 barrel but the chrome lined 308’s are gonna last a lot longer.
 
I've been reading this thread for a little while. I've wrestled with how to get into the large frame game, and was torn between doing an aero build with some improved components, a Larue UU kit, etc. Then I found a MWS Defender at V1 Tactical, and after reading this thread felt great about buying from them. I ordered one today for 2018 shipped...although it isn't supposed to ship until 3/2021. Should give me time to get accessories I need.

I run a SiCo Omega...do you all think I will need that XH buffer for this?
 
I've been reading this thread for a little while. I've wrestled with how to get into the large frame game, and was torn between doing an aero build with some improved components, a Larue UU kit, etc. Then I found a MWS Defender at V1 Tactical, and after reading this thread felt great about buying from them. I ordered one today for 2018 shipped...although it isn't supposed to ship until 3/2021. Should give me time to get accessories I need.

I run a SiCo Omega...do you all think I will need that XH buffer for this?


Omegas appear to have a pretty good reputation for being a high back pressure can so you are going to have to figure out how to over come this on the MWS.

There are a number of ways to achieve this
EZ tune gas tubes,
Adjustible gas keys
XH buffer and spring combo

The best path forward would be to just get a low pressure can but that may end up costing you a grand and 6 months. They are quieter at the shooters ear than a traditional higher pressure can, and you dont have to worry about gas setting backing out or adding reciprocating mass to the system.

The full size high pressure can that I use on my 18 and 20 inch barrels with violent when pared with my 13.5 and 16 inch barrels. My solution was the XH heavy buffer and spring combo as well as a Sandman K. While I would still like to experiment with the stock H3 and Spring combo and sandman K, The 13.5 is very comfortable to shoot. I would say that its almost as nice to shoot as my SR25, and noticeably nicer to shoot than my Scar.

Without a can, That thing barks.
 
Anyone convert a CA maglocked MWS to featureless? What parts did you need to make the ambi magazine release functional on both sides? I bought a previously maglocked gun that was converted before my possession and ambi side button is dead. Doesnt move either way?Not getting a quick response from LMT.
 
Just to confirm, I see three buffer listed, which one do I need (omega on an MWS Defender)

CAR-10 Buffer - 5.5 ounces - $100
CAR-10 XH Buffer - 6.5 ounces - $125
XH Carbine Buffer (8.5 oz) w/.308R Buffer Spring - $140


I need the last one right? 8.5oz?
 
Took my LMT Defender out to the range with a box of Federal Steel Match 155gr BTHP. Rifle shot sub-moa, but had several FTF and one double feed. I am not overly concerned because I don't intend to run steel case and it may have been a mag issue. I am very happy with both the accuracy and the Steiner P4Xi 4-16.

It's going to get a little brother.
 
Took my LMT Defender out to the range with a box of Federal Steel Match 155gr BTHP. Rifle shot sub-moa, but had several FTF and one double feed. I am not overly concerned because I don't intend to run steel case and it may have been a mag issue. I am very happy with both the accuracy and the Steiner P4Xi 4-16.

It's going to get a little brother.

Is it a complete rifle or a build? I tried once a box of Tula 150gr just for test and there was no drama.

Speaking of over-gassing, how is your cam pins holding. Mine got a mark which you can actually feel with a fingernail after the first 50 or so rounds, I don't know if I should be worried or it's normal.
Also, is someone running .260 Rem. barrel, it looks like they're in stock right now and I'm tempted to jump into the 6.5 territory. Is the caliber viable option in 2020 or I should wait until mid next year when the 6.5CR barrels will be available (according to LMT)?
 
The 260 barrel has a 1-9 twist, where the 6.5 has a 1-8, with the different twist rate I think that why guys have had accuracy problems with the 260 shooting heavier bullets. If you have a barrel that you don’t use, using that barrel extension off that barrel you can have someone fit a different brand of barrel.

If you read my previous posts, I had Mark Chanlynn build a 6CM barrel for me using a Wilson Combat adjustable gas block. It shoots great think bolt gun sub 1/2 moa accuracy in a gas gun. Takes care of the over gas issue that guys mention.
 
Man still waiting on my barrel from V1 to finish the MWS 6.5 build.

Also need to decide on trigger. MBS for $75, KAC 2 Stage for $225 or $280 for G Hi speed.

Have all of them but i swear, for the $75 bucks its really hard to beat the Larue Triggers. Not quite as light and short travel as KAC and the Hi speed but its 1/3 the cost and perfectly serviceable.

They are running a special if you buy 3 more more then are $75 and 5 more more $70 each.
 
Man still waiting on my barrel from V1 to finish the MWS 6.5 build.

Also need to decide on trigger. MBS for $75, KAC 2 Stage for $225 or $280 for G Hi speed.

Have all of them but i swear, for the $75 bucks its really hard to beat the Larue Triggers. Not quite as light and short travel as KAC and the Hi speed but its 1/3 the cost and perfectly serviceable.

They are running a special if you buy 3 more more then are $75 and 5 more more $70 each.

If you’re building a 6.5 precision rig I’d go with the Geissele. I’ve got one in mine and it’s great. There’s one in the PX right now for $210

Mine wouldn’t fit properly with the factory safety however. I put in a Battle Arms Development safety and it fit fine
 
Is it a hi speed for $210?

I have had issues with G trigger pins in the past, they are undersized requiring anti walk pins in about 25% i have seen. Not the end of the world but something else to buy and reduces life of trigger componets.
 
E7E54979-8FFC-4A99-8D28-1030A33BF473.jpeg

Threw the 7-35 ATACR on there this morning. Still trying to decide between the NF ATACR 4-16x42 MIL-C, Leupold MK5 3.6-18x44 TMR, or Vortex Razor GEN3 1-10 EBR9
 
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How many of you guys own more than one MWS or don’t even have a bolt gun anymore because of am MWS?
I don't personally own a bolt gun, yet. Two MWS one pic rail, one mlok both ambi. 308 16" CL x2, and 20" 308 SS and 20" 6.5 SS. Toying with selling the pic rail off, but I so like it...
 
How many of you guys own more than one MWS or don’t even have a bolt gun anymore because of am MWS?

MWS and CQB.

MWS was going to be my one and only "precision" rifle.

Love it for what it is but it made me appreciate bolt guns.

Within my limitations to shoot large frame AR and its ability to shoot its fantastic for what it is.

but......

If I needed to make just one shot........bolt gun.
 
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MWS and CQB.

MWS was going to be my one and only "precision" rifle.

Love it for what it is but it made me appreciate bolt guns.

Within my limitations to shoot large frame AR and its ability to shoot its fantastic for what it is.

but......

If I needed to make just one shot........bolt gun.
I was getting frustrated with my 6.5 until I tried Hornady 147 gr ELD Match. One ragged hole vs mostly keeping it within a 1 7/8" blue tape square with American Gunner 140 OTM.
 
I was getting frustrated with my 6.5 until I tried Hornady 147 gr ELD Match. One ragged hole vs mostly keeping it within a 1 7/8" blue tape square with American Gunner 140 OTM.


Im a glutton for punishment.

I arc em in and went with a bigger recoil impulse in .308.

I feel my 16 inch CL is a consistent 2 MOA rifle.

I havent shot much FGMM though.

It may be a sub MOA gun and I am a 2MOA reloader.
 
Im a glutton for punishment.

I arc em in and went with a bigger recoil impulse in .308.

I feel my 16 inch CL is a consistent 2 MOA rifle.

I havent shot much FGMM though.

It may be a sub MOA gun and I am a 2MOA reloader.
Up until I tried the 147 gr ELD, I would have told you I shoot my 308 better. I have stock piles of FGMM in both calibers but had only shot CBC 308D and AG 6.5 140 OTM.
 
I took my MWS with a 20" 6.5mm Creedmoor barrel to the range this past Thursday. I had just installed an EZTUNE gas tube and I am getting decent groups with Hornady American Gunner 140gr HPBT. The first 5 shot group was 1.32". All the rest were under 1".
 

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AG 140 OTM 3x3 vs 147 ELD 5 shots

How does your fired brass look? The EZTUNE gas tube helped me along with there layers of thick double layer tape on the shell deflector. I am still getting heavy cuts from the internal lugs on the barrel extension.

Also, I find the Hornady AG ammo very dirty and it leaves hard to remove carbon on the BCG and the necks of the fired cases.
 
How does your fired brass look? The EZTUNE gas tube helped me along with there layers of thick double layer tape on the shell deflector. I am still getting heavy cuts from the internal lugs on the barrel extension.

Also, I find the Hornady AG ammo very dirty and it leaves hard to remove carbon on the BCG and the necks of the fired cases.
It gets beat, all stock LMT...
 
What is everyone using for glass on their MWS? Share pictures if you have them.

I should have the final parts from V1 by Dec and need to start working on a scope. I could use some help narrowing it down. I'm likely going with the 16" LW SS barrel and want to keep weight in mind.

Currently considering ATACR 4-16, NX8 2.5-20, Mark 5 or 6 3-18, Trijicon Tenmile 3-18, T5Xi 3-15, Vortex Razor AMG, or more budget Viper PST Gen II.

This will be my first step into higher-end glass so any help is appreciated.

Also Mags. Pmag or Lancer L7? I really like my Lancers in 5.56.
 
What is everyone using for glass on their MWS? Share pictures if you have them.

I should have the final parts from V1 by Dec and need to start working on a scope. I could use some help narrowing it down. I'm likely going with the 16" LW SS barrel and want to keep weight in mind.

Currently considering ATACR 4-16, NX8 2.5-20, Mark 5 or 6 3-18, Trijicon Tenmile 3-18, T5Xi 3-15, Vortex Razor AMG, or more budget Viper PST Gen II.

This will be my first step into higher-end glass so any help is appreciated.

Also Mags. Pmag or Lancer L7? I really like my Lancers in 5.56.

I run an ATACR 4-16 FFP on mine.
I use Pmags. 100% reliable. No experience with Lancers.
 
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What is everyone using for glass on their MWS?
I'm likely going with the 16" LW SS barrel and want to keep weight in mind.
Also Mags.
My current selection for MWS is a CompM4S, NF ATACR 1x8, and a NF ATACR 4x16x42. I have an older NXS 5.5x22 that would work on a long range config also. I have both Magpul and KAC mags, either works fine. Most rounds at the range get fed from a KAC, but at home the loaded MWS has a Magpul in it. Buy once, cry once on the glass, and if you like something don't be a dumbass and sell it...
 
What is everyone using for glass on their MWS? Share pictures if you have them.

I should have the final parts from V1 by Dec and need to start working on a scope. I could use some help narrowing it down. I'm likely going with the 16" LW SS barrel and want to keep weight in mind.

Currently considering ATACR 4-16, NX8 2.5-20, Mark 5 or 6 3-18, Trijicon Tenmile 3-18, T5Xi 3-15, Vortex Razor AMG, or more budget Viper PST Gen II.

This will be my first step into higher-end glass so any help is appreciated.

Also Mags. Pmag or Lancer L7? I really like my Lancers in 5.56.

I started with a Schmidt 5-25 PMII.

I also had a Magpul PSR stock.

P1015523.JPG


It made an anchors anchor.

I went back to the LMT collapsible and mounted a USO 1-8X (sorry no pics).

Mo betta.
 
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