A duplex is a nice thick reticle that can be seen under the worst conditions. A FFP scope turned down to low power is anything but. FFP scopes have pros and cons as do SFP. If someone says differently they are dishonost, ignorant, or both. There is give and take on every choice we make and this is no exception. Losing low end reticle visibility is one and the largest pitfalls of FFP scopes in lowlight shooting. Some deal with it while others won’t.
Rifle Scopes Long range hunting scope question/ rant
- Thread starter SWWI Shooter
- Start date
Then quit bringing up that you can’t use an FFP at low power. You keep bringing it up, but can’t give a scenario where you can’t use it properly.
Unless you have bad eyesight, have a shit optic, or have your diopter set improperly, you can see the reticle fine at all powers to use it in a practical way that suits the magnification.
It may be a personal preference to have a larger reticle at low power, but it’s not a “pitfall.”
You loose the cross hairs at low power, the lines gets so F-in skinny at lower power they get close to useless.
I did multiple times and yes illumination helps FFP scopes which Imbelieve FFP scopes should all have. A good thick SFP scope (not a milling reticle) does not need illumination.
Don’t get upset because everyone doesn’t think that a 30oz plus FFP tactical scope is the best in every scenerio. It’s not and you would be foolish to believe so. Obviously these scopes suit you best despite their shortcomings. They don’t for all. No big deal. Learn to debate without getting hostile.
Why not a Leupold MK 5 in a 3-18x44? Yes it’s FFP, but it’s within your price range, has exposed elevation turret, capped windage, parallax adjustment etc. have you looked at their reticle options?
Who’s hostile? You can attempt to say “oh you’re being hostile” while trying to insert little jabs. You did it with the poster above as well.
They make lightweight FFP optics.
Just getting tired of seeing you post nonsense more and more often.
You push your personal preferences as if they are a absolute and not just an opinion. I have asked you in several threads to give an example in which you cannot practically use an FFP optic and you cannot list one.
Add another one to the fuckhead ignore list ?
Shitty eyesight, shitty optic, or improperly adjust diopter if you lose the reticle at low power.
Lol. What are you talking about. I answered that question multiple times. You just don’t agree with my answer and you don’t have to. You do need to understand that I answered. I have acknowledged everyone’s views whether different than mine or alike. I just acknowledged and validated yours. I never said your opinion is nonsense or wrong. I just don’t agree with it. Once again you are hostile and proved your immaturity in this post. Calling me names and Putting me on the “fuckhead ignore list” cemented that in place. Shutting your eyes and ears to differing opinions will keep you dumb and ignorant. I can’t understand the mindset of people like you.
How badly do you need parallax adjustment? The 2-12 is a very good scope, just missing parallax adjustment.
The 3-15 VX5hd is a good option if 15x is low enough.
It has a very wide FOV, wider than a VX3 4.5-14 on 14x.
What light weight FFP scope for $1000 would you recommend for the OP?
Bearing in mind you can buy great quality glass from Ziess, Swarovski and Leupold in a SFP scope for under $1000.
In the OP’s Original post he stated that he “preferred“ a scope in the $1k Range, but would go up to $2k for the right optic. I believe that opens a few more options.
Leupold MK5 3-18x44 with a PR-1MOA Reticle would be one that comes to mind. Doesn’t entirely fit but comes close...
- light weight
-capped windage
-exposed elevation turret
-1 MOA reticle subtensions
-illuminated Reticle
-parallax adjustment
-FFP
-$2k range
-magnification is close but a bit above what he noted
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I didn’t address the OP? I addressed a guy continually claiming that FFP can’t be used at low power as if were fact and not his opinion.
Wow!! What a lying asshole and another internet tough guy.
You are showing your stupidity and have been. You are continually attacking me and accussing me of doing exactly what you are guilty of. Thats called projection.
Not once have I ever said that a FFP scope couldnt be used at low power. I said that a FFP scope at low power is one of the weaknesses of the design. It is one of the strengths of a SFP scope. That point would be hard to argue against as it is well understood by most everyone except you.
I never said that one scope couldnt or shouldnt be used in certain situations. Pluses and minuses. I own and use both. There is no right or wrong.
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Took my ETR out hunting and felt FFP was a disadvantage. If I hunt with this rifle more I’m going to get the vx5hd or just go big and get a SFP ATACR4-16
I still shot a hog at 50’yards in the timber but dicking around with the magnification to get a good reticle size/ FOV just told me I had the wrong optic for the job. ETR is great on the bench or a big greenfield. It was cool watching deer at 30x but my preference is SFP for hunting
I still shot a hog at 50’yards in the timber but dicking around with the magnification to get a good reticle size/ FOV just told me I had the wrong optic for the job. ETR is great on the bench or a big greenfield. It was cool watching deer at 30x but my preference is SFP for hunting
The Sig Sauer Whiskey 5 3-15x44 with MOA Milling Hunter reticle is a possibility. Looks like the only negative is the fact that the entire reticle is lit...and maybe the weight.
Have a 4-16 atacr sfp on my tikka 338 win mag and love it.
Has the MOAR reticle. Great scope. A little on the hefty side but makes the 338 a pleasure to shoot.
Has the MOAR reticle. Great scope. A little on the hefty side but makes the 338 a pleasure to shoot.
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I am pleased with my Sig BDX 2200 Kilo combo with the Sierra 4.5 -14x50 for anything out to 600 yards.
Up-front I am by no means a competition shooter, I have competed in Sporting Clays, so I don't think I'm an expert by any means. I do like the Kilo 2200 BDX system. I worked it starting at 100 yards, and used box muzzle velocity.....loaded synced data from the Kilo RF. and chrono graphed it to 600. The System is accurate pending time and a good wind call. For a quick shot Sig has that figured on the ballistics with an interior dial on the left side in yards. I have used this and hit 600 yards. I have a self imposed range cap of 400 to 450 yards maximum. Gun shoots great out to 1,000. Range finding isn't difficult, as I have two Range Finders a Leopold and Sig.
Best All
Go Sooners
Up-front I am by no means a competition shooter, I have competed in Sporting Clays, so I don't think I'm an expert by any means. I do like the Kilo 2200 BDX system. I worked it starting at 100 yards, and used box muzzle velocity.....loaded synced data from the Kilo RF. and chrono graphed it to 600. The System is accurate pending time and a good wind call. For a quick shot Sig has that figured on the ballistics with an interior dial on the left side in yards. I have used this and hit 600 yards. I have a self imposed range cap of 400 to 450 yards maximum. Gun shoots great out to 1,000. Range finding isn't difficult, as I have two Range Finders a Leopold and Sig.
Best All
Go Sooners
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Sig scopes generally have less than great reviews. However that said, I don’t have this scope.
I will be getting a scope for a new rifle. Based on other users and my son’s experience, I will be acquiring a Vortex Scope.
FYI — it is a trade off based on my budget.
I will be getting a scope for a new rifle. Based on other users and my son’s experience, I will be acquiring a Vortex Scope.
FYI — it is a trade off based on my budget.
Question for all you TMOA guys. If I zero my gun at 200 yards does that mean I can use each hash mark after as another 100 yards of elevation. So each hash after 200 would be 300 400 500 600 and so on? This works on my NF nxs but I have been having problems just using the reticle on the leupold for holds. I am trying to figure out if my scope is unleveled or if this scope does not work like that. Thanks
What reticle do you have in the NXS?
What you're describing is a "bullet drop compensator" type of reticle. That's different than a true MOA/MIL reticle.
What you're describing is a "bullet drop compensator" type of reticle. That's different than a true MOA/MIL reticle.
You need to know the scope subtensions at the power you are shooting, then you can compare it to your drops.
I have the MOAR on my 338. When I sighted it in I was able to use the elevation hashes to shoot, each large hash was 100 yards. So Each hash after zero was 50 the large hashes were 100. I ran it out to 500 that day and each shot with each hash was dead on.
That is quite simply dumb luck that the hashes correspond to your come ups if you didn't plan it that way. I have a couple of hunting scopes that will do that. For example I have a 45-70 that every ½ mil is 25 yards from 100 to 200 yards (45-70s fall like a rock) but I loaded it that way. (405s at 1800FPS)
The bullet drop to any distance is a function of MV and BC. If the two don't equal the subtension on your scope per 100 yds then it's not going to work.
Check out JBM Ballistics
I think I found my issue the scope is not level at all I am not sure if it was from the guy the put it on or maybe the suppressor moving it.
As for my thinking the hash marks are 1 moa so pretty much 1 inch at each moa. 2 moa hash 200 (2 inches up) 3 moa hash 300 (3 inches up) and so on. I know you can get really deep in sub tensions and drop. But I have never had a problem holding.
As for my thinking the hash marks are 1 moa so pretty much 1 inch at each moa. 2 moa hash 200 (2 inches up) 3 moa hash 300 (3 inches up) and so on. I know you can get really deep in sub tensions and drop. But I have never had a problem holding.
