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Tell us about the one that got away, the flier that ruined your group, the zero that drifted, the shot you still see when you close your eyes. Winner will receive a free scope!
Join contestI bought a 8x32 Nikon Monarch. Turns out the damn thing only had 20 MOA vertical adjustment. I asked every question I could think of and every sales person I spoke with did not mention it, so I ended up with a 300 yard scope. Then I learned about 20 MOA rails.</div></div>
Headgear I'm thinking of buying a 8x32 Nikon Monarch. That is reason I joined today. I'm thinking of shooting out to 1000 yds.
Would you buy this scope again? Or should I look else where.
Do you think it will be suitable for 1000 yd shots
Is the 20 MOA a problem.
Also which reticle did get? Which reticles would you recommend.
http://www.nikonhunting.com/page/reticles_landing
Headgear said:<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought a 8x32 Nikon Monarch. Turns out the damn thing only had 20 MOA vertical adjustment. I asked every question I could think of and every sales person I spoke with did not mention it, so I ended up with a 300 yard scope. Then I learned about 20 MOA rails.</div></div>
Headgear I'm thinking of buying a 8x32 Nikon Monarch. That is reason I joined today. I'm thinking of shooting out to 1000 yds.
Would you buy this scope again? Or should I look else where.
Do you think it will be suitable for 1000 yd shots
Is the 20 MOA a problem.
Also which reticle did get? Which reticles would you recommend.
http://www.nikonhunting.com/page/reticles_landing </div></div>
Yes 20MOA total adjustment is a problem. From center that is only 10 up and 10 down. You can't use a 20 MOA angled base and get a 100 yard zero.
If you want a SFP scope for target shooting in the 8-32 range, look at the Burris Black Diamond. It has twice the adjustment range, though you will still need a 20 MOA base.
I would think the fine cross hair would be the reticle you would want for target shooting.