Looks officially out, the Vortex Impact 4000 WMLRF

[munch520]

Have a few on the way, psyched to try these in the Tourette's-level varied weather conditions the midwest offers over the next few months.

Someone said it best above, another tool in the toolbox. Doesn't do everything, like wind for example (IMO this is what gun# is for) but seems like it's a well thought out and price-effective option.

 

[SkyScrapin]

Scheels, AA Optics, Strictly Offensive Kit (@wigwamitus if I’m not mistaken) all allow add to cart.

Correct,

We have a ton in stock and shipping daily.

Vortex Impact 4000 Ballistic Rail-Mounted Laser Rangefinder

Features Picatinny Mount Mounts to any picatinny-style rail or rings with a diving board mount. Quick and Reliable Zero Easy to zero and reliably holds it zero even under heavy recoil. Convenient Wind/Drop Solutions Easy to read display of wind/drop solutions and the ability to make adjustments...

strictlyoffensivekit.com

 

[munch520]

It will be interesting to see how it does in fog and mist like BLBennet mentioned before. I've seen that kick PLRF's ass.

Yep exactly

 

[96C]

I've checked the manual for key words and the website specs... But couldn't find any clear mention of maximum recoil rating for these units.
Does anyone have this info? What is the Impact 4000 rated for recoil wise.

 

[clefairy]

I've checked the manual for key words and the website specs... But couldn't find any clear mention of maximum recoil rating for these units.
Does anyone have this info? What is the Impact 4000 rated for recoil wise.

Vortex warranty, 50 cal send it.

 

[NiteQwill]

@Tyler Kemp does the FDE on your new covers match the unit's color?

 

[Tyler Kemp]

@Tyler Kemp does the FDE on your new covers match the unit's color?

Our FDE is the "magpul" FDE. I'd say it's close but not exact. To get exact we'd likely need a custom cerakote color made. We can compare some swatches and I can put a pic of the magpul FDE up as a comparison.

 

[Teflon16]

Have a few on the way, psyched to try these in the Tourette's-level varied weather conditions the midwest offers over the next few months.

Someone said it best above, another tool in the toolbox. Doesn't do everything, like wind for example (IMO this is what gun# is for) but seems like it's a well thought out and price-effective option.

I’ve got one coming in today. How has it held up in various weather conditions? By and large held up in terms of reliability/accuracy?

 

[NiteQwill]

Our FDE is the "magpul" FDE. I'd say it's close but not exact. To get exact we'd likely need a custom cerakote color made. We can compare some swatches and I can put a pic of the magpul FDE up as a comparison.

Sounds good, may go with that. Appreciate the reply.

 

[Tyler Kemp]

Here's an Impact vs the Magpul FDE:

 

[MarinePMI]

Here's an Impact vs the Magpul FDE:

View attachment 8272132

Looks more like the Pantone color of an S&B scope...

 

[Stag556]

Here's an Impact vs the Magpul FDE:

View attachment 8272132

When will these be available?

 

[TheOE800]

When will these be available?

Orderable now

 

[Ichi]

Here's an Impact vs the Magpul FDE:

View attachment 8272132

I've never understood the fascination with any of the 50 shades of FDE...

 

[Glassaholic]

Here's an Impact vs the Magpul FDE:

View attachment 8272132

I do have to ask, what is that black piece on the front of the Impact 4000 in the above photo?

 

[TheOE800]

I do have to ask, what is that black piece on the front of the Impact 4000 in the above photo?

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[Stag556]

Orderable now

I kept checking the site under ARD and Vortex but it was never there. Thought they weren’t available yet. Using their search function found it though. Thanks for the heads up, got one ordered. Being down range and looking that the vortex, the front glass is a beacon…

 

[Glassaholic]

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That is absolutely brilliant. When does their BF sale start

 

[NiteQwill]

Here's an Impact vs the Magpul FDE:

View attachment 8272132

My color reproduction on my 2002 phone sucks... Is the right black or gray?

 

[FourT6and2]

Is it the case you have to unmount this thing and re-calibrate it every time you change locations? Vortex says if you move more than 30 miles. And the calibration process looks annoying. Am I missing something? After you do that, you'd have to re-zero all over again, no?

 

[Ichi]

Is it the case you have to unmount this thing and re-calibrate it every time you change locations? Vortex says if you move more than 30 miles. And the calibration process looks annoying. Am I missing something? After you do that, you'd have to re-zero all over again, no?

The compass should be re-calibrated if you move 30 miles or more and it needs to be removed from the rifle.

 

[NiteQwill]

Is it the case you have to unmount this thing and re-calibrate it every time you change locations? Vortex says if you move more than 30 miles. And the calibration process looks annoying. Am I missing something? After you do that, you'd have to re-zero all over again, no?

The zero holds very well. I unmounted it 4-5 times recently, torqued to 45 in/lbs with fix it sticks, and was able to range targets anywhere from 600 to 1200 yd without any difficulty and without rezeroing.

 

[FourT6and2]

The compass should be re-calibrated if you move 30 miles or more and it needs to be removed from the rifle.

View attachment 8272286

I've not used one, so what's the use-case scenario for a WMLRF? If you have to remove and re-calibrate every time you travel more than 30 miles, doesn't that kind of fly in the face of a device such as this' intended application?

 

[Tyler Kemp]

It should be easily seen now:

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[NiteQwill]

I've not used one, so what's the use-case scenario for a WMLRF? If you have to remove and re-calibrate every time you travel more than 30 miles, doesn't that kind of fly in the face of a device such as this' intended application?

It's recommended but real world, probably not needed. I would argue to say that it is definitely needed when traveling a significant distance from your normal place of shooting.

I have 2-3 regular places that I shoot, the closest being 5 minutes away and the farthest being 1+ hr away. I did not calibrate again and I was fine for targets up to 1000+ yards in several different directions.

However, if I was traveling a few hours or flying by plane, I'd probably calibrate.

 

[Tx_Aggie]

It's recommended but real world, probably not needed. I would argue to say that it is definitely needed when traveling a significant distance from your normal place of shooting.

I have 2-3 regular places that I shoot, the closest being 5 minutes away and the farthest being 1+ hr away. I did not calibrate again and I was fine for targets up to 1000+ yards in several different directions.

However, if I was traveling a few hours or flying by plane, I'd probably calibrate.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the compass is mainly needed for the unit's wind calling feature. It seems like compass calibration could be skipped if a guy plans on using the Impact for range and elevation dope, and then using something like gun number for wind.

 

[Ichi]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the compass is mainly needed for the unit's wind calling feature. It seems like compass calibration could be skipped if a guy plans on using the Impact for range and elevation dope, and then using something like gun number for wind.

 

[Teflon16]

It's recommended but real world, probably not needed. I would argue to say that it is definitely needed when traveling a significant distance from your normal place of shooting.

I have 2-3 regular places that I shoot, the closest being 5 minutes away and the farthest being 1+ hr away. I did not calibrate again and I was fine for targets up to 1000+ yards in several different directions.

However, if I was traveling a few hours or flying by plane, I'd probably calibrate.

So fairly similar to a kestrel where you need to update the latitude basically, mine just came in and like you I shoot a few places with a 1-1.5 hour drive. I’ll report back if it differs from my Kestrel at all.

 

[Ichi]

So fairly similar to a kestrel where you need to update the latitude basically, mine just came in and like you I shoot a few places with a 1-1.5 hour drive. I’ll report back if it differs from my Kestrel at all.

I wonder if the Vortex will loose its compass calibration the way that a Kestrel can when transported or stored close to a magnetic field. It seems that every time I go to the range, I have to calibrate the compass on my Kestrel.

 

[NiteQwill]

So fairly similar to a kestrel where you need to update the latitude basically, mine just came in and like you I shoot a few places with a 1-1.5 hour drive. I’ll report back if it differs from my Kestrel at all.

With my Kestrel (using a CDM with Bergers and DTACs), my data was pretty much the same. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

 

[Teflon16]

With my Kestrel (using a CDM with Bergers and DTACs), my data was pretty much the same. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Yeah I got the Geo App set up and it’s showing the same dope out to a 1000 yards. Now to see how good it is at ranging targets without a backdrop. I have a set of vortex Binos that sometimes struggle to pick out steel targets on their own

 

[NiteQwill]

Yeah I got the Geo App set up and it’s showing the same dope out to a 1000 yards. Now to see how good it is at ranging targets without a backdrop. I have a set of vortex Binos that sometimes struggle to pick out steel targets on their own

It's really, really good. And I 'had' an unlocked RAPTAR.

 

[munch520]

I’ve got one coming in today. How has it held up in various weather conditions? By and large held up in terms of reliability/accuracy?

So far so good lol. More reliable than Vortex and Leupold handheld LRFs in adverse conditions.

 

[Teflon16]

So far so good lol. More reliable than Vortex and Leupold handheld LRFs in adverse conditions.

I’m also running mine on the SPUHR mount. Did you use the target they gave you to determine the laser zero. My understanding was that meant for the vortex mount but the SPUHR is slightly different height. Wasn’t sure if anyone had adjusted the height. I got mine zerod and so far so good.

 

[munch520]

I’m also running mine on the SPUHR mount. Did you use the target they gave you to determine the laser zero. My understanding was that meant for the vortex mount but the SPUHR is slightly different height. Wasn’t sure if anyone had adjusted the height. I got mine zerod and so far so good.

I have the low diving board on my 1.5 Spuhr mount and I got 2.5" from center of optic to the LRF so I went with the zeroing spot on the target they provided. Didn't need to adjust that height.

 

[taliv]

I have the normal height spuhr raptar mount which is 1” and I measured 3” exactly from center of scope to center of impact. Not sure I did it right though and somewhat concerned that red laser seems lower than the LRF laser so am I really parallel?

 

[munch520]

I have the normal height spuhr raptar mount which is 1” and I measured 3” exactly from center of scope to center of impact. Not sure I did it right though and somewhat concerned that red laser seems lower than the LRF laser so am I really parallel?

I could just be an idiot (this has happened before) so I'll go check. You're measuring to optic centerline right?

 

[Teflon16]

I have the normal height spuhr raptar mount which is 1” and I measured 3” exactly from center of scope to center of impact. Not sure I did it right though and somewhat concerned that red laser seems lower than the LRF laser so am I really parallel?

I’ll have to go back and take a look, I also have the normal SPUHR Raptar mount. I had about 20 minutes after a PRS match and zero’d it according to the supplied target. It worked great out to about 800, but then it was reading low (compared to the known distance) so I think it was reading the berm in front of the target. I’ll need to go take it back out and make sure the height from optic centerline to centerline is correct.

Other than some zeroing discrepancies the distancing/ballistic calculations were spot on.

 

[TheOE800]

I’ll have to go back and take a look, I also have the normal SPUHR Raptar mount. I had about 20 minutes after a PRS match and zero’d it according to the supplied target. It worked great out to about 800, but then it was reading low (compared to the known distance) so I think it was reading the berm in front of the target. I’ll need to go take it back out and make sure the height from optic centerline to centerline is correct.

Other than some zeroing discrepancies the distancing/ballistic calculations were spot on.

I was actually going to put a call in to Vortex to ask for the vertical center of the Impact. Should be able to just give us the height from top the rail so we can math from the height of the diving board we choose to use.

 

[Tx_Aggie]

I have the normal height spuhr raptar mount which is 1” and I measured 3” exactly from center of scope to center of impact. Not sure I did it right though and somewhat concerned that red laser seems lower than the LRF laser so am I really parallel?

The visible laser is slaved to the LRF emitter, and the two lasers are parallel/coaligned within the optic. So as long as you have the visible laser aligned correctly with your optic, you should be good.

But it's also important to remember that your 100 yard zero for the Impact may still need to be refined at distance (as @Teflon16 mentioned above). The easiest way to do this during the day is to use something that provides a hard edge for the laser to drop off of, like a distant building or tree line.

 

[Teflon16]

I was actually going to put a call in to Vortex to ask for the vertical center of the Impact. Should be able to just give us the height from top the rail so we can math from the height of the diving board we choose to use.

Oh that’s a good idea, mind posting what they say when you hear

 

[TheOE800]

Oh that’s a good idea, mind posting what they say when you hear

The actuality of me making that call is really small.

@Scott_at_Vortex can you help us out?

 

[Teflon16]

The visible laser is slaved to the LRF emitter, and the two lasers are parallel/coaligned within the optic. So as long as you have the visible laser aligned correctly with your optic, you should be good.

But it's also important to remember that your 100 yard zero for the Impact may still need to be refined at distance (as @Teflon16 mentioned above). The easiest way to do this during the day is to use something that provides a hard edge for the laser to drop off of, like a distant building or tree line.

Yeah I’ll need to go play with it, but it’s definitely a nice unit just needs some fine tuning to get the zero figured out for everyone’s various mounts. Pretty much any WMLRF has this issue of getting the laser perfectly zero’d, should just take some finagling

 

[taliv]

The visible laser is slaved to the LRF emitter, and the two lasers are parallel/coaligned within the optic. So as long as you have the visible laser aligned correctly with your optic, you should be good.

But it's also important to remember that your 100 yard zero for the Impact may still need to be refined at distance (as @Teflon16 mentioned above). The easiest way to do this during the day is to use something that provides a hard edge for the laser to drop off of, like a distant building or tree line.

Right but my point is I measuring center of optic to center of LRF. Got 3” exactly. So I used the supplied target and put the little sticker 3” from center.

However the vis laser is almost definitely not in the center of the LRF. If it’s 1/4” low that could be a pretty significant error at distance. (Which I think was your point about refining at distance.

Just off the top of my head I think the refining at distance is more important than trying to get more precise measurement from LRF to optic because the red laser looks pretty dang big on the reflective target. Prob a fair amount of error trying to guess the center of it.

My plan is to fine tune at night with Nv

 

[taliv]

I was actually going to put a call in to Vortex to ask for the vertical center of the Impact. Should be able to just give us the height from top the rail so we can math from the height of the diving board we choose to use.

But you don’t want center of impact. You want distance from the vis emitter to top of rail. Right? (Assuming they’re not the same thing)

 

[Tx_Aggie]

But you don’t want center of impact. You want distance from the vis emitter to top of rail. Right? (Assuming they’re not the same thing)

That's correct. If using the vis laser to zero you'd want to know distance from center of optic to the center of the visible laser emitter.

 

[TheOE800]

But you don’t want center of impact. You want distance from the vis emitter to top of rail. Right? (Assuming they’re not the same thing)

Whatever optical center is. I assumed that measurement is identical for viz laser and IR laser, apparently incorrectly.

 

[NiteQwill]

I have the Raptar Mount on my Spuhr (A0029) with my Tangent. I measured 2.75"

I zero'd my Impact 4000 at night with the side of a car at 0.75 mil above my center. (If my math is correct - which may be wrong).

I find zeroing at night is a little more accurate than during the day.

I was able to hit targets at 1500+ yards without issues the next day.

 

[Tx_Aggie]

I have the Raptar Mount on my Spuhr (A0029) with my Tangent. I measured 2.75"

I zero'd my Impact 4000 at night with the side of a car at 0.75 mil above my center. (If my math is correct - which may be wrong).

I find zeroing at night is a little more accurate than during the day.

I was able to hit targets at 1500+ yards without issues the next day.

Night time, or dusk, is definitely better. The visible laser in my Impact is frustratingly weak compared to something like the MARS, or even a Radius.

 

[taliv]

hey where are you guys mounting the remote?

somewhere near the action you can operate with trigger finger?
on the forearm or by rear bag where you can operate with support hand?

also, i had to mount mine on the side because my raptar rail wasn't tall enough to clear the clipIR ELR. interestingly, changing the orientation doesn't just change the rear screen, but also the buttons: when mounted on the right of the gun, the "right" button becomes the "bottom" button etc. HOWEVER, the remote does not appear to change which is kinda odd mentally. EDIT: nm, i'm a retard and didn't read the manual on how to change remote button orientation.