M40a1 build guide

#151
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: littlebarney</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the clipslotting is for stripper clips,thats why its called "clip" slotting.it was done to remington 40x's and winchester pre64 rifles for national match shooting.theres an adapter that fits in the clipslot that guides the loaded stripper clips into the magazine box for fast loading like camp perry rapid fire strings.</div></div>

I realize that. HOWEVER, we are talking about the "clip-slotting" on the M40 which is done for the purpose of fitting the scope mount not so that Marines in the field can clip load their rifles. IIRC the receivers that were used to build the M40A1 came from Remington with the standard ejection port and were "clip-slotted" in house at Quantico to fit the mounts, NOT for a clip adapter. I do not know if the ORIGINAL M40 receivers came from the factory with the clip slotting or not. One of our forum "historians" may be of better help there.

I am not a 2112 and could be totally off on this one, but I don't think so since I have never been instructed on how to load a M40 with stripper clips.
 
#152
Re: M40a1 build guide

IIRC the original M40 came from Remington with a factory clipslot that should have been able to accomplish it's intended purpose had the Corps not elected to use it for a lug slot instead.... The scope would have prevented it's use either way though... There were not many of the factory clipslots introduced into the supply chain, but I can't recall the number....
 
#153
Re: M40a1 build guide

Hello everyone, hopefully this question won't be too burried in this thread to get some help. I suppose I can start a new topic if this doesn't get noticed, but think this thread is supposed to help alliviate the tons of threads on the subject. At any rate, I am looking for some serial number clarification.

I understand the serial number range is from 168,179 thru 322,769, but then I see this:
"Original serial numbers were in the 200,000 range. Later replacements were in the 600,000 range"
and this:
"My receiver is within the 200,000 range but not exactly correct from what I've gathered. But, it's good enough for me."

Also, there were more "E" pre-fix serials out there than anything?

So, my question is this, what serial range am I looking for on a 6-digit receiver. Also, if I can find "C" or "E" or "G" pre-fix receivers, are these something I should get ahold of and pass along to Hider's? Or are these not desirable for M40A1 builds?

Thanks for the help!!

DD
 
#154
Re: M40a1 build guide

Debos,

As I understand it, and I have no more information than you: The origianl M40's were of the 168... to 322..., and these were rebuilt into M40a1's. These actions were replaced when they wore out with the C,E,G actions.

I'm curious if I'm correct, but I think I'm close.

jeff
 
#155
Re: M40a1 build guide

I called Remington to see when my action was made. I have 192,xxx and it was made in 1966. It would have been close to the oldest of the M40's that "could" have been rebuilt into an M40a1.

I've also emailed Big Green to see if they can tell us what the range of the first 40X receivers was for the M40's.
 
#156
Re: M40a1 build guide

I have a line on a 6 digit 6mm Rem barreled action with trigger components, correct mag box and follower. Havnt seen it in person yet. But the seller says it is in great condition with probably less than 100 rounds through it.

Question from you guys, would this work for a spec build?

Thanks guys!
 
#158
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DebosDave</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would think it should work just fine, but I don't know the serial number range to look for just yet... What serial range is that action in?

DD </div></div>

Action serial number is 267XXX. Where can I verify the date?
 
#161
Re: M40a1 build guide

Gentlemen,

I too have a few questions and hope this is not so burried that it does not get any attention. I hope I do not get shot at for what I would like to build so please work with me. hahahha

I would like to build something very close to the M40A1 but do not want to spend a redicilious ammount of money doing so and also do not want to feel bad if somehting happens to it while deer/moose/bear hunting as that is what it's primary purpose will be.

I would not have a problem and would actually like to just buy a new model Remington 700 and take it from there with several "clone" upgrades. Which model would be the best suited for this is my initial question?

I will absolutely be ordering the McMillan M40A1 (HTG) and have it bedded by them as well.

The retro sling is a must as well and I have seen here the link to where those can be purchased.

I also see that Badger Ordnance has a "clone" mounting set-up that I would like to go with that is available on SWFA's website. On that same note the money the optics seem to bring is what many guys have a problem with. I am with them and not willing to take that plunge. So with that said I was thinking of going with a Leupold. Which of "todays" Leupolds would be the closest to the specific model that the Army used? I already asked you to forgive me. I would like to use a variable power becasue again I am going to be using it for hunting. Did any of these scopes happen to be a different color than black like green or brown? The reason I ask is I could and would be willing to use the Leuopold custom shop to have it annodized since I would have them also replicate the USMC SNIPER engraving on it anyway.

Any other information you may have would be appreciated. Thanks
 
#163
Re: M40a1 build guide

The Badger mount is a replica Redfield, that was used on the M40, and maybe the M40A1 for a short time. The Redfield M40 scopes were not marked USMC Sniper. You're talking about the Unertl 10X/MST-100 scope. The M40s used a green anodized scope, and SWFA actually sells a Leupold "replica" of the M40 scope. That one right there is your best bet. It should be on the web site. Also, if you want this to get attention, start a new thread with it!
 
#164
Re: M40a1 build guide

Bigfish,

I got ya and thanks for the info. I acutally saw that scope on the SWFA site and when I click on it nothing will open. I get a good deal thru Leupold with the military discount and I even called them today about it. What I would have to do is purchase the scope and they would then send it on over to the custom shop and get it to me. That would work out really well so probably what I will do. So if I do get the green anodized scope that is the M40 variant what other M40A1 modifications have I let bleed into the M40? I hope you follow me. I guess I have some more homeowork to do now. hahah
 
#165
Re: M40a1 build guide

Man if you want the stock and sling there is one in the for sale section right now for cheaper than you would have to pay if you ordered it from McMillan, plus you won't have to wait forever. I suggest you go for it! Without custom work on the barreled action, get a stock remington 700 PSS or other heavy barreled remington. Good luck and post pictures when you're done!
 
#167
Re: M40a1 build guide

Action serial numbers are 221770

In Iron brigade armory books the serial numbers are 221770 is the last one..I have 2219XX. and two 214XXX. They are all clip slotted and should two have barrels on them tomorrow

David
 
#170
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 737SHARK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I need some bottom metal one of mine is too short. Any one have one that is way to long?</div></div>

I have a few if you send me yours ill send you one thats longer.

David if you can post that picture I sent you with the instructions guys will se how rudimentry the M40A1's were built.
 
#172
Re: M40a1 build guide

Here it is...
grin.gif


First, thanks to all who helped, contributed and otherwise smacked me up side the head to get this done. Not necessarily in order they were:
Red River Shooter, VSP968, Wild Bill C, Jeff VN, Swamper, Gary Schneider (Schneider Barrels), Jeff and John W (USO), George and Eric (GAP).

The first rounds were put down range by a Former Marine and Sniper. Thanks to Robert, Bill and Jimmy for the onsite help getting the rifle sighted to my crooked eyes... You don't have to hit me with the 2X4 anymore...
confused.gif


40A1rear.jpg


40A1leftphotobucket.jpg


40A1leftScopephotobucket.jpg


40A1leftclosephotobucket.jpg


40A1barrel.jpg


40A1front.jpg


40A1Right.jpg


40A1boltphotobucket.jpg


40A1target.jpg


That is five shots in just a little over 1.2 inches at 100 yards, rifle not broken in; not bad for 56 year old eyes and way too much coffee.

Thanks again to all on this board who contributed! Anybody that gets to the NOVA/Quantico area and would like to look at/shoot it, give me a yell.
 
#173
Re: M40a1 build guide

If a TIG welder is unavailable, is there any other method of securing the mag box to the receiver that would hold up? Maybe JB Weld or something? I have a good sized soldering iron, but don't think a regular solder joint would work... Any thoughts?
If I can get the mag box attached I can be shooting this weekend!

Thanks!!!

ETA - Got the answer to this in a different thread:

You can use the ADL box and attach it with the screw as used in an ADL, but you have to file the box down to square -vs- angled as it is in the ADL so it will fit... Am trading my BDL box with Brad Arnett for an ADL box that has already been filed down to fit. Thanks Brad & Randy (HateCa)!!!!
 
#174
Re: M40a1 build guide

Hi guys, long time reader, short time member, almost first time poster.

I just got a Forest HTG stock (used but not a return) I bought from a member here (RWoodall, good seller!) along with bottom metal stuff. I am trying to build a fairly accurate M40A1. I will most likely never get lucky enough to find a USO/Unertl, and if I did I wouldn't be able to afford it at that time. I may not get into detailed markings, but if it's easy enough I might. I would like to use a Hart barrel, unless there's a good reason not to. I would like to have the receiver clip slotted I think. I will try to get the mag box welded. I am on the fence as to the scope base. If I go and get a Unertl type base, it would have to have 30mm rings since pretty much all the non-M40A1 scopes are 30mm, but then it wouldn't be right for the right scope. Which I probably wouldn never get though. Hmm...

Now that I've introduced the gun side of me, I have a question regarding the recoil lug taper. I am not sure what is meant by that. Is it cut on either side, cut on the front or the back, or what? And how necessary and/or useful is that considering my "not exact but as close as I can get" goals of reproducing the M40A1? I have bedded my M14 but never a bolt gun, so I don't know what difference a tapered lug makes regarding bedding or shooting. Can anyone help me with an explaination or drawing?

I also have a question which I think I know the answer to; you have to clip slot the receiver to drop the Unertl base in, right? I figure it's not worth slotting otherwise since you can't really see it under a base. I really like those Unertl bases but that and the slotting will be big bucks compared to a regular base rail.

I'm sure I'll have lots of other questions as time goes by, but this thread is GREAT and has answered a bunch of them already. Thanks everyone.
 
#178
Re: M40a1 build guide

I think I read here that GAP uses something else on their M40A1 spec builds because true black oxide isn't a very good finish, is real toxic in its application, and that only one outfit in Arkansas does it any more.
 
#179
Re: M40a1 build guide

guys that are homebuilding the m40a-1 clones what are ya'll using to finish the guns? i was kind of thinking about mixing a custom duracoat color to match parkerizing and darkening it a little to matte it.... opinions? 1911shtr
 
#181
Re: M40a1 build guide

I think Norrells Moly Resin would do the trick, I have used the various colors available on some different projects and the end results are usually excellent. I do not have easy access to a media blaster so I have done some items as is without surface prep work and the outcome is still ok. Here is the main page to the Norrells website http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/ The stuff is not cheap but an 8 oz. bottle will go a long way, at least a couple of rifles and a handgun or two. There is the requirement to bake whatever you spray the regular stuff on for an hour at 350 F. Norrells has some now that will air cure without baking, I have not tried it so I don't know if it is what anyone would want to use for gun parts or not.
 
#182
Re: M40a1 build guide

I am looking to build a pre-mst 100 rifle with the Redfield scope, did all of the scope mounts have the feet that secure it into the clipslot? I have a period correct redfield mount for my scope but it obviously hasn't got the feet on it. Just wondering if the early rifles had this. Could not find any information as to when that was started. 1911shtr
 
#183
Re: M40a1 build guide

In the Peter Senich book, One Round War:USMC Scout Snipers In Vietnam, there is a section or two pertaining to the transitional period during the 70's when the Marine Corps was still in R&D concerning the Remington 700 and what they wanted to do with it. Apparently the Unertl 10x scopes came along around 1981 or so and were used with the old Redfield mounts for a while, then they started to have problems with the old mounts and the Unertl company produced the design that was used on the M40A1 for most of it's tenure. The M40A1 rifles started to see service a few years before the Unertl scopes were produced, and of course were still holding the Redfield Accurange scopes in the Redfield mounts. The Redfield mount base made for the Marine Corps did not have any special provision to fit into the clip slotted receiver, the Unertl design does of course fit into the recess of the clip slot at the front and the rear of the action. There is some discussion in the same book in an earlier chapter about the Redfield mount as having cant or down angle built in to allow for more elevation travel, as the accurange scopes were zeroed in at 500 yds. and hold under/over was taught to the snipers using the system. I think there is some debate as to whether the USMC Redfield base was actually any different from a standard Redfield SA 700 base, I think you would need to have a verifiable original in hand to see if it has any down angle or if it is flat when installed on an early type action. So to answer the question, yes your Redfield mount should be correct for a pre Unertl/MST100 rifle.
 
#186
Re: M40a1 build guide

I had another look through the book last night and this does appear to be exactly what they did do, makes perfect sense with the larger barrel contour. They also were welding the rings on to the bases in an effort to prevent any problems with things getting loose around this time. I did look back to see where I saw the information regarding the older base as having a cant built in, it appears that it was part of the initial request rather than a description of the end product. The early rifles were built on the older actions that had a different receiver bridge height from what was made later, so dimensionally the older base would be different from a later rounded base as well if I am understanding things correctly. Remington made the change in their receivers around 1974 or so, and the bridge height has remained the same since in their production. Redfield would most likely have made the change in their production as well. I wonder if the USO MST100 mount is made to spec for the older action on the current production spec? I have both on order and will be looking for an action to do a build on so this would be useful to know.
 
#190
Re: M40a1 build guide

We like the stocks so much because they are origional military pieces and each one can never be replaced. building these rifles back to spec is out of respect for what it is, a fighting weapon. If we get a little enjoyment out of recreating history, then so be it. These rifles deserve to live on, even if it is in someones gunsafe. 1911shtr.
 
#191
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Turk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">G3ninfinite, What kind of info are you looking for on the finish? </div></div>

basically i was looking to find out what finish is used for the m40a1 and m40a3.
 
#194
Re: M40a1 build guide

Anyone know where I can get the black oxide? I know that a lot of people that are doing the M40a1 and a3 are leaving their rifles in brand new condition. Has anyone made their rifle to look well used? Im kind of looking to have that well used look. Just a thought didnt know if anyone has done that or even thought of it. Thanks
 
#195
Re: M40a1 build guide

Midway or Brownells both have black oxide, but it's a process to do, not that hard, but you don't just spray it on.

But I thought, and I might be wrong that M40s and A1s were Black Phosphate( spelling? ) aka parkerized, if that's the case then a quick and easy are some of the spray finishes, they comein other than camo, and do an alright job of matching parkerizing.
 
#197
Re: M40a1 build guide

Has anyone used the black oxide? What brand is the best to get? Im getting ready to have my M40a1 built just want some opinions on the black oxide.
 
#198
Re: M40a1 build guide

I had a Stainless Walther PPK refinished in black oxide about 15 years ago, I think the company I had do it was/is called Techplate and the last I can recall is they were in Anaheim, Ca. I am not sure if there is a difference in what I had done vs. what was done to USMC M40a1 stainless barrels as I have not seen a USMC M40a1 in person without krylon paint on the barrel. I know that the pistol I had refinished was certainly a very dark charcoal color when I got it back, and that the finish seemed to mar easily. I understand that this is the same with the black oxide finish on the USMC rifles according to different references.
 
#199
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: littlebarney</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: force_multiplier</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'll assume you're right, I'm no expert, but everyone does realize that "black oxide" is just blueing right? </div></div>

basically yes

</div></div>

Almost...most shops do a hot salt blue. This typically will not color stainless steel. "Black oxide" for stainless steel is similar, but different. Some of the setups require an acid pre-dip. That type will not work for a "spec" build that has the bore treated as is the acid will ruin the bore. I am still trying to find which system the PWS uses.

Dave P
 
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