I heard the updated MDT ACC T3 will support the T3X and T1X without any modifications? Anything to be aware of? Considering switching my two KRG Bravo setup, to just a single MDT ACC setup and swap out the action depending on matches.
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MDT ACC Chassis
- Thread starter Saf3sh00t3r
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Yes, the new production ACC Tikka T3's are directly compatible with the Tikka T1x! All you need to do is to remove the magazine latch (1 minute, a pin punch and a small hammer will get it done) and you're ready to roll.
Josh, when you say "the new production ACC Tikka T3's are directly compatible with the Tikka T1x!" does that imply that the initial versions are not compatible?
You are correct. The initial revisions did not have the cuts in there to accommodate the T1x magazine well, however, we implemented that relatively early on, meaning that there are very few out there that would not work without modification. If you have an early one and would like to modify it to fit the T1x, then it is not too hard to do and our Customer Service Team can help you out with that
Josh, if I am running my weights on my side rail...and I wanted to put the barricade stop to the side for side support....will my weights in front of the barricade stick out too far and leave only half of the stop exposed?
If yes...is there a spacer to be placed under the barricade stop so it will clear the weights in front of it?
If yes...is there a spacer to be placed under the barricade stop so it will clear the weights in front of it?
This is what I've seen most guys running in that spot:
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Minuteman
The weights are .4" thick, and the barricade stops are around 1" wide so you would be under halfway covered if behind a weight. We are not aware of any M-Lok spacers on the market.
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Right now, we have other projects we need to finish first; however, the Hoptic USA M-Lok version will attach to the sides of the chassis.
Josh, if you have a barricade stop that is a blemish/reject....you think you could have a guy in the shop machine off the backside M-Lock nubbs and then countersink the hole....then place a Ferrule between the countersink of the top of a weight and the bottom of the barricade stop...and use a longer bolt thru to the M-Lok nut?
Basically putting the barricade stop on top of a weight...but the M-Lok nubbs on the underside shaved off so it sits flush with the top of the weight...and the Ferrule will both lock the barricade stop and the weight together...and prevent shear on the longer bolt.
Thanks
Basically putting the barricade stop on top of a weight...but the M-Lok nubbs on the underside shaved off so it sits flush with the top of the weight...and the Ferrule will both lock the barricade stop and the weight together...and prevent shear on the longer bolt.
Thanks
It sure is. That was after the regional qualifier there this past saturday. Good eye
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Unfortunately, we do not have any blemishes available and since we are a full CNC production shop we do not offer one-off services.
Love it ! 2nd rifle , the one without weights, does it have soft cheek cover on top of the cheek rest? Is that by wiebad or armageddon ?Thanks.
Hoptic USA now sells a custom-fit soft padded cover for the ACC/ESS cheek rest. I got it a few weeks ago and it's a nice upgrade.
Talked to Matt at Hoptic, they will be back in stock Friday.
Update: They are back in stock just ordered my saddle and quiver
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Mine flexes if I really put pressure on it. I haven't noticed any issues at matches or at the range.
You are correct. The initial revisions did not have the cuts in there to accommodate the T1x magazine well, however, we implemented that relatively early on, meaning that there are very few out there that would not work without modification. If you have an early one and would like to modify it to fit the T1x, then it is not too hard to do and our Customer Service Team can help you out with that
Josh, would you mind elaborating on this? I removed my magazine latch but it appears that my T1x won't drop into the ACC. I've sent a message via the Customer Service portal on the website and am waiting on a response. It looks as though attaining fitment would require some serious tools, not the kind of thing the average customer can sort themselves? Cheers
Edit to add: Actually, taking a good look at it now it appears that the problem lies with the large screw which mounts the T1x mag system to the action. I recon my gunsmith could cut a groove for it without too much trouble.
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Let me know what you figure out as I was about to buy a MDT ACC for my T3X / T1X and was hoping for zero gunsmithing work.
The gunsmithing is only required if you bought one of the earliest models, the newer ones come properly inletted
For you guys running the MDT ACC...how heavy are you guys going to go? Seems I have a fetish to keep adding weights everywhere....boy does my shoulder love it on this 300PRC...but at age 50...that total weight is starting to kick my butt.
Haven't put mine on a scale yet, but I run the rear and all the internal forend weights. Then run 1 set of mlok weights to get the right balance. Started with a heavy Palma and moving to an MTU. So that may change here in a bit.
I have three. On one I run all the weights. With a NF 7-35, bipod, and 26' Medium Palma it's right at 24.7lb, it's really stupidly heavy and I'd definitely strip all the weights (can bring the total down to 17.6lb) if I was carrying it any meaningful distance. It's addictive to dial the scope up to max mag and watch trace at virtually any distance, but at full weight it's hardly a practical rifle and really becomes a "gamer gun", with the weighs off it's very much in line with typical precision bolt gun in terms of weight and manoeuvrability .
Another setup is a 6BR, it has none of the weights, a 21.5' rem varmint barrel and a NF 4-16. With bipod it weighs 15.4lb. It's probably my favourite setup, just incredibly well balanced and not at all cumbersome. The final chassis is on a Tikka T1x, it's at the gunsmith at the moment but I expect it to weigh ~ 12.5lb with the 16' barrel, Vortex PST + bipod.
The ability to configure the setup for a specific task is great. The ACC can't be made super light, but I view that as a natural evolution - an ACC which retained the same ergos but in carbon or another material that allowed one to strip the weight right down and ramp it up as needed would be awesome.
One of my ACC's had a minor issue (Arca rail out of spec for RSS compatibility and missing the magwell cut for T1x) but it was an early version and MDT sorted it fast. All said the ACC has quickly become a favourite, I've tried a lot of other options and this solves the most problems with individual fit.
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I run zero additional weights and with a 26" criterion mtu Im right above 17 lbs as well. Balances pretty perfectly I feel even with my can hanging off the end.
Hey Buddy, I am always happy to elaborate where I can!
You're correct, the material removal to clear the rear screw that holds the T1x magwell to the bottom of that action would require more than a file, a dremel and some patience. Below is a comparison of the models (in SW) of the chassis that you have (top) and the newest revision (bottom):
As you can see, there is a cut that runs into the trigger pocket area and allows the T1x magazine well to fit better. There are also some cuts on the rear face of the mag well to allow better removal and insertion of the T1x magazine, but those can be done with a file, a dremel and some patience
Josh
The most common setup is: the buttstock rear weight, all the interior weights and 1-2 sets of exterior forend weights. The common weight range for most competitors is in the 21-23 lb range
There will always be an element of flex to long forend chassis and stocks, but as mentioned, they should not really be noticeable unless you are really loading into that bipod. We have done a good amount of testing on forend flex and none of it showed significant results for our intended purpose
Hey Buddy, I am always happy to elaborate where I can!
You're correct, the material removal to clear the rear screw that holds the T1x magwell to the bottom of that action would require more than a file, a dremel and some patience. Below is a comparison of the models (in SW) of the chassis that you have (top) and the newest revision (bottom):
View attachment 7156688
As you can see, there is a cut that runs into the trigger pocket area and allows the T1x magazine well to fit better. There are also some cuts on the rear face of the mag well to allow better removal and insertion of the T1x magazine, but those can be done with a file, a dremel and some patience
Josh
Thanks Josh, fortunately my gunsmith lives 15min from my house and is a good friend, took the chassis around and he sorted the inletting in 15min, T1X drops in nicely ?
I need to get weights for mine. I was planning on the internal weights. How many have the butt stock weight? Are you adding it for recoil management or balance? Thanks guys!
I am using the butt stock weight and internal weights for recoil and then the external mlok weights to balance it out. MDT also has a steel version of the bag rider if you need more weight in the rear. I am currently running the aluminum version.
Still need to drop the barreled action back in, but here's a pic of the chassis with the weights installed.
Has anyone done some experimenting with muzzle rise and the rear buttstock weight? Meaning do you see more muzzle rise (off a barricade or similar) with it installed vs not.
I have one of the MDT ACC folding stocks sitting here in the box MDT sent me to review. Havent installed it on my fixed stock ACC. Been slammed with work but plan to get it done over the next 2 weeks.
Here is a picture of my existing ACC showing the length of the fixed stock from where it attaches to the chassis back to butt pad.
10.5"
Here's the new ACC folding stock you can buy to upgrade your ACC to a folding stock. No, you cannot buy just the folding adapter, but you can buy the folding stock and do not have to buy a new ACC.
Here's a picture of the length of the folding ACC stock from the same point in my first picture, where it attaches to the chassis back to the butt pad. The difference is negligible. We are talking 10.50" vs 10.875". 3/8" difference but you are gaining a rock solid folding stock!
Stay tuned. Ill have a video review up in the next 2 weeks. Ill post it here.
Added the Hoptic neoprene saddle blanket today.....with Winter coming...don't want to get my precious face all cold.
Yes. The best way to eliminate as much muzzle rise as you can (just with the chassis alone) is to bias your weights forward towards the tip of the forend and remove weight from the buttstock. This can cause a slightly "nose heavy" rifle, however, in the prone it will allow for slightly less muzzle rise. If you're shooting mostly positional, then the balance is more important in my opinion.
Since I probably won't have time to shoot this week....I decided to think about options for my thumbscrews on my stock. What do you guys prefer?
1. New style of thumbscrew now shipping with the MDT buttstocks.
2. Solid brass thumbscrew that has been cut down to just 5 threads showing. Knurled for a good grip.
3. Old style of thumbscrews that shipped with earlier versions of the MDT buttstocks.
4. Solid brass thumbscrew that is larger in diameter than #2 with a domed offset underneath. Will cut to 5 threads showing..currently sticking WAY out.
I will most likely go with #4. Bigger with slightly deeper knurling and a good solid weight...yep..adding a little weight here...a little more there...
I'm also thinking of going with a custom engraved leather saddle blanket attached with most likely velcro underneath....got a guy that is really good at that stuff that owes me some money..and this may be the only way to recoup some of that.
I know...quit ricing out my rifle and go shoot!
1. New style of thumbscrew now shipping with the MDT buttstocks.
2. Solid brass thumbscrew that has been cut down to just 5 threads showing. Knurled for a good grip.
3. Old style of thumbscrews that shipped with earlier versions of the MDT buttstocks.
4. Solid brass thumbscrew that is larger in diameter than #2 with a domed offset underneath. Will cut to 5 threads showing..currently sticking WAY out.
I will most likely go with #4. Bigger with slightly deeper knurling and a good solid weight...yep..adding a little weight here...a little more there...
I'm also thinking of going with a custom engraved leather saddle blanket attached with most likely velcro underneath....got a guy that is really good at that stuff that owes me some money..and this may be the only way to recoup some of that.
I know...quit ricing out my rifle and go shoot!
