My question is what do many consider to be more importent Higer magnification of hige resilution. What brand and specs work best form your prospective.
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Re: Most popular F-class scoope
The Nightforce BR scopes do very well in F-Class. The 1/8 clicks come in very handy when zeroing that small target and the objective parallax adjustment doesn't hinder you at all. The optics are fine, you won't need any better. Pick your power and choose the reticle that suits you best.
The Nightforce BR scopes do very well in F-Class. The 1/8 clicks come in very handy when zeroing that small target and the objective parallax adjustment doesn't hinder you at all. The optics are fine, you won't need any better. Pick your power and choose the reticle that suits you best.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
true. alot of guys are running the nightforce br models but it also depends on what class your gonna be shooting. i shoot ftr and ive been using a millet trs 1 4-16x50. and hope fully in the next month or so ill be using a us optics sn3 3.8-22x44. it all depends on what u want but why have either image quality or magnification? why not have both?
true. alot of guys are running the nightforce br models but it also depends on what class your gonna be shooting. i shoot ftr and ive been using a millet trs 1 4-16x50. and hope fully in the next month or so ill be using a us optics sn3 3.8-22x44. it all depends on what u want but why have either image quality or magnification? why not have both?
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
It does not depend on the class in which you are shooting, as long as you respect the overall weight restrictions.
The targets are the same size, the distances are the same, why should your scope be different?
The NF BR listed above is quite popular, the fixed high magnification scopes such as Weaver, Leupold, Sightron, etc are also popular. All the top shooters I know have top magnifications beyond 30X. The simpler the reticle the better; the NP2DD from Nightforce is popular, the fine crosshairs with target dots are also very well regarded. Quality magnification with repeatable settings (great target knobs) are the important aspects of a scope here.
It does not depend on the class in which you are shooting, as long as you respect the overall weight restrictions.
The targets are the same size, the distances are the same, why should your scope be different?
The NF BR listed above is quite popular, the fixed high magnification scopes such as Weaver, Leupold, Sightron, etc are also popular. All the top shooters I know have top magnifications beyond 30X. The simpler the reticle the better; the NP2DD from Nightforce is popular, the fine crosshairs with target dots are also very well regarded. Quality magnification with repeatable settings (great target knobs) are the important aspects of a scope here.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
12-42 nightforce, buy once cry once, I wish I'd known this 5 years ago!
12-42 nightforce, buy once cry once, I wish I'd known this 5 years ago!
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
I have used various low-midrange priced 6-24X40/42mm scopes as well as a Leupie 6-24x40 VX-III at distances out to 1000yd. Depending on mirage conditions, upper magnifications can be unusable at the longer distances, and I typiclaly find myself ending up on the 16X-18X-ish setting in extremely bad mirage.
This not a recommendation to use a lower power scope, however, because at shorter distances, the tendency of mirage to negate the value of the higher powers becomes less and less. We are looking for the best available resolution, and on any given day, at a given distance, this is going to vary quite a bit. Therefore, never underestimate the value of those higher magnification settings. There will definitely be days when you want to use them, so it's better to have them available.
Greg
I have used various low-midrange priced 6-24X40/42mm scopes as well as a Leupie 6-24x40 VX-III at distances out to 1000yd. Depending on mirage conditions, upper magnifications can be unusable at the longer distances, and I typiclaly find myself ending up on the 16X-18X-ish setting in extremely bad mirage.
This not a recommendation to use a lower power scope, however, because at shorter distances, the tendency of mirage to negate the value of the higher powers becomes less and less. We are looking for the best available resolution, and on any given day, at a given distance, this is going to vary quite a bit. Therefore, never underestimate the value of those higher magnification settings. There will definitely be days when you want to use them, so it's better to have them available.
Greg
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
Thank you everyone for your oppinion,I was wondering if a 308 winchester on 20 MOA base and using the Nightforce 12-42x56 BR scope would hawe enough elevation to adjustments to get to 1000 yards with 175gr mach king bullets at 2650 fps.The reason i ask is the 12-42x56 has 40 MOA adjustments.
Thank you everyone for your oppinion,I was wondering if a 308 winchester on 20 MOA base and using the Nightforce 12-42x56 BR scope would hawe enough elevation to adjustments to get to 1000 yards with 175gr mach king bullets at 2650 fps.The reason i ask is the 12-42x56 has 40 MOA adjustments.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
40MOA on a 20MOA rail with 1/4 clicks is fine, the benchrest model is 1/8th and 20MOA max so make sure you get the NXS
40MOA on a 20MOA rail with 1/4 clicks is fine, the benchrest model is 1/8th and 20MOA max so make sure you get the NXS
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
A 42 power NF will get you there with a 20 moa base we build F Class rifles all the time and you get 40moa with the benchrest model with the 20moa base you get to zero at 300 yards and shoot to 1000 yards they are the most popular scope we use on the F Class rifle builds here in Australia where 223's and 308's are limited in projectiles and powders we also use the same scopes for open builds they are just the best value for money.
A 42 power NF will get you there with a 20 moa base we build F Class rifles all the time and you get 40moa with the benchrest model with the 20moa base you get to zero at 300 yards and shoot to 1000 yards they are the most popular scope we use on the F Class rifle builds here in Australia where 223's and 308's are limited in projectiles and powders we also use the same scopes for open builds they are just the best value for money.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
it depends on how deep your pockets are!
I personally use nxs (8-32), leupold (6.5-20) or bushnell (6-24). I prefer my scopes to have a miling reticule because I use holdovers rather than playing with turrets. I also rarely use the highest powers due to mirage. Most of the times I stay under 20 power when shooting at 1000yds. because at high magnification mirage blurs the target and everything else....
it depends on how deep your pockets are!
I personally use nxs (8-32), leupold (6.5-20) or bushnell (6-24). I prefer my scopes to have a miling reticule because I use holdovers rather than playing with turrets. I also rarely use the highest powers due to mirage. Most of the times I stay under 20 power when shooting at 1000yds. because at high magnification mirage blurs the target and everything else....
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
it depends on how deep your pockets are!
I personally use nxs (8-32), leupold (6.5-20) or bushnell (6-24). I prefer my scopes to have a miling reticule because I use holdovers rather than playing with turrets. I also rarely use the highest powers due to mirage. Most of the times I stay under 20 power when shooting at 1000yds. because at high magnification mirage blurs the target and everything else....
it depends on how deep your pockets are!
I personally use nxs (8-32), leupold (6.5-20) or bushnell (6-24). I prefer my scopes to have a miling reticule because I use holdovers rather than playing with turrets. I also rarely use the highest powers due to mirage. Most of the times I stay under 20 power when shooting at 1000yds. because at high magnification mirage blurs the target and everything else....
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: meekrat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">40MOA on a 20MOA rail with 1/4 clicks is fine, the benchrest model is 1/8th and 20MOA max so make sure you get the NXS
</div></div>
I believe the above statement to be partially incorrect. The benchrest model 12-42X56 does indeed have .125 MOA clicks (1/8) but it also has 40MOA of internal adjustments. In fact this is the model that is most used in F-class (or the one that I see most often.)
Here is the Nightforce page about the benchrest models:
http://www.nightforceoptics.com/SCOPES_OVERVIEW/BENCHREST_MODELS/benchrest_models.html
I would definitely get the 12-42 model for F-class; more magnification is better. The most popular F-class reticle is the NP2DD; there is no need for extra etching in the glass, we hold on the target, using the rings on the paper but you have to be able to see them, which is why you need the magnification.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: meekrat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">40MOA on a 20MOA rail with 1/4 clicks is fine, the benchrest model is 1/8th and 20MOA max so make sure you get the NXS
I believe the above statement to be partially incorrect. The benchrest model 12-42X56 does indeed have .125 MOA clicks (1/8) but it also has 40MOA of internal adjustments. In fact this is the model that is most used in F-class (or the one that I see most often.)
Here is the Nightforce page about the benchrest models:
http://www.nightforceoptics.com/SCOPES_OVERVIEW/BENCHREST_MODELS/benchrest_models.html
I would definitely get the 12-42 model for F-class; more magnification is better. The most popular F-class reticle is the NP2DD; there is no need for extra etching in the glass, we hold on the target, using the rings on the paper but you have to be able to see them, which is why you need the magnification.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
Last weekend I was at a match 300m to 900m and the guys were shooting the BR and NXS models the BR was 2-1 favorites, the reticle of choice was the NPR2. I did see one NP2 DD on a 260AI. If you are shooting F/TR then you need to concern yourself with elevation depending on your load you may need between 31-35 MOA to get to 1000yrds with the BR that only leave 5min with the NXS you have 15min assuming you have a tapered base of at least 20MOA. I shoot F/TR in 308 and have 12-42 BR with the NPR2, the hash marks are 5moa windage 2moa elevation (referenced at 22x) at 42x that is 2.6moa windage which comes in handy as I hold off and knowing that you are 2.6moa from the outer ring is easier to return to then saying I need to put the cross hairs on that plant between the target frames to land in the 10 ring. As a point of interest the high shooter in F/TR was using a 8.5-25 Leupold. As long as you know what your equipment is capable of you can be competitive with most high end optics.
Last weekend I was at a match 300m to 900m and the guys were shooting the BR and NXS models the BR was 2-1 favorites, the reticle of choice was the NPR2. I did see one NP2 DD on a 260AI. If you are shooting F/TR then you need to concern yourself with elevation depending on your load you may need between 31-35 MOA to get to 1000yrds with the BR that only leave 5min with the NXS you have 15min assuming you have a tapered base of at least 20MOA. I shoot F/TR in 308 and have 12-42 BR with the NPR2, the hash marks are 5moa windage 2moa elevation (referenced at 22x) at 42x that is 2.6moa windage which comes in handy as I hold off and knowing that you are 2.6moa from the outer ring is easier to return to then saying I need to put the cross hairs on that plant between the target frames to land in the 10 ring. As a point of interest the high shooter in F/TR was using a 8.5-25 Leupold. As long as you know what your equipment is capable of you can be competitive with most high end optics.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The most popular F-class reticle is the NP2DD; there is no need for extra etching in the glass, we hold on the target, using the rings on the paper but you have to be able to see them, which is why you need the magnification.</div></div>
I know plenty of F-class shooters that use their reticle for hold-offs; of course, they have a reticle that can be used for such. I am not convinced that the NP-2DD is the most populat F-class reticle. In fact, I would bet that it was not.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The most popular F-class reticle is the NP2DD; there is no need for extra etching in the glass, we hold on the target, using the rings on the paper but you have to be able to see them, which is why you need the magnification.</div></div>
I know plenty of F-class shooters that use their reticle for hold-offs; of course, they have a reticle that can be used for such. I am not convinced that the NP-2DD is the most populat F-class reticle. In fact, I would bet that it was not.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
That's ok, you're probably right. However, I don't know too many F-class shooters that hold off off the paper as a matter of course. I hold off on the target itself because I can see the rings.
That's ok, you're probably right. However, I don't know too many F-class shooters that hold off off the paper as a matter of course. I hold off on the target itself because I can see the rings.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
I don't know anyone that holds off of the paper as a matter of choice. I was talking about a reticle being used for a hold off. For example, if you have 1 MOA hash marks, and the scoring disk is 2 MOA left of center, you can hold off using the second hash mark from center as an aiming point.
I don't know anyone that holds off of the paper as a matter of choice. I was talking about a reticle being used for a hold off. For example, if you have 1 MOA hash marks, and the scoring disk is 2 MOA left of center, you can hold off using the second hash mark from center as an aiming point.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
Hmm, I'm not sure I see the advantage of holding off anything from the scoring disk. I am usually very mindful of the spotter in the prior hole when I take aim, but since the rings in the black are in increments of 1/2 MOA per side, that's what I use to do my hold offs. I just have a very simple fine crosshair with 1/8 MOA target dot, which also allows me to further refine the hold. I can't recall ever holding off paper in competition at any range, so I agree with that.
Hmm, I'm not sure I see the advantage of holding off anything from the scoring disk. I am usually very mindful of the spotter in the prior hole when I take aim, but since the rings in the black are in increments of 1/2 MOA per side, that's what I use to do my hold offs. I just have a very simple fine crosshair with 1/8 MOA target dot, which also allows me to further refine the hold. I can't recall ever holding off paper in competition at any range, so I agree with that.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
I have held off my target actually put the cross hairs on the other target due to the wind conditions; avg wind was 16 with gusts up to 20mph that is 18.6moa or 186 inchs (15 feet+) target frames are only 6 feet across the distanse between targets is another 6 feet so you can see i was holding the 3 ring on the target next two me to get on my target. The only saving grave with that wind at that speed was consistant 16-20 no large let offs.
I just ran your number for the 175 Sierra's at 2650 JBM is reporting that you need 38moa to get to 1,000 that is not leaving a lot of room for error if the factory load is running less or your shooting in cold conditions, you might want to get a 25moa rail or the NXS model with the extra 10 min of elevation. the 25moa rail will cost the same as the 20 but the NXS might run you another $400 dollars. I would talk to some F/TR shooters and see what their set up is using the 175's I shoot the 155's and get to 1,000 with 29-31 minutes running at 2975
I have held off my target actually put the cross hairs on the other target due to the wind conditions; avg wind was 16 with gusts up to 20mph that is 18.6moa or 186 inchs (15 feet+) target frames are only 6 feet across the distanse between targets is another 6 feet so you can see i was holding the 3 ring on the target next two me to get on my target. The only saving grave with that wind at that speed was consistant 16-20 no large let offs.
I just ran your number for the 175 Sierra's at 2650 JBM is reporting that you need 38moa to get to 1,000 that is not leaving a lot of room for error if the factory load is running less or your shooting in cold conditions, you might want to get a 25moa rail or the NXS model with the extra 10 min of elevation. the 25moa rail will cost the same as the 20 but the NXS might run you another $400 dollars. I would talk to some F/TR shooters and see what their set up is using the 175's I shoot the 155's and get to 1,000 with 29-31 minutes running at 2975
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
The guy that keeps beating me every month at Quantico's F-Class is running a Leupold 6.5-20x. I have a NF 5.5-22x NXS. Shot a 481 on May 3rd match and he shot a 487. Not that I couldn't see better with a little more magnification, the scope is really not my problem anyway. I use my long range tactical rifle and don't want any more scope than I have. I don't feel limited at 22x, and can see the "X" under most atmospheric conditions.
We dial on a for range zero using the most stable condition, which gives us a dead-on hold for most of the shots. This avoids having to compound our holdoffs - that is to mentally add more or less holdoff to an existing holdoff, and potentially in two axes. Once we have our range zero, we then "shade" the crosshair back & forth as we see temporary condition changes cause more or less drift.
The guy that keeps beating me every month at Quantico's F-Class is running a Leupold 6.5-20x. I have a NF 5.5-22x NXS. Shot a 481 on May 3rd match and he shot a 487. Not that I couldn't see better with a little more magnification, the scope is really not my problem anyway. I use my long range tactical rifle and don't want any more scope than I have. I don't feel limited at 22x, and can see the "X" under most atmospheric conditions.
We dial on a for range zero using the most stable condition, which gives us a dead-on hold for most of the shots. This avoids having to compound our holdoffs - that is to mentally add more or less holdoff to an existing holdoff, and potentially in two axes. Once we have our range zero, we then "shade" the crosshair back & forth as we see temporary condition changes cause more or less drift.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
I want to make sure I understand here.You are telling me that you have a no-wind zero and you never touch the windage turrets, ever. You always hold on on the target or your neighbor's target.
Am I understanding this correctly?
I will say this is very different from what I do and what I believe most of my fellow shooters at our club and the matches I have attended do.
Before I fire my first sighter, I will have dialed in what I think is the proper correction for the conditions as I detect them. Anemometer, flags, mirage, experience. I shoot my first sighter and then make the full correction, whatever I think it should be. Then I take my second sighter and many are the times I would like to convert either the second one, or both. I will then shoot my string without touching the dials again, simply by holding off as needed. If the conditions change drastically, I will either wait them out, or actually change the dials, but that is a rare occurance.
I have never even considered shooting a match by simply holding off from a no-wind zero, well unless it was in a no-wind condition, of course.
I want to make sure I understand here.You are telling me that you have a no-wind zero and you never touch the windage turrets, ever. You always hold on on the target or your neighbor's target.
Am I understanding this correctly?
I will say this is very different from what I do and what I believe most of my fellow shooters at our club and the matches I have attended do.
Before I fire my first sighter, I will have dialed in what I think is the proper correction for the conditions as I detect them. Anemometer, flags, mirage, experience. I shoot my first sighter and then make the full correction, whatever I think it should be. Then I take my second sighter and many are the times I would like to convert either the second one, or both. I will then shoot my string without touching the dials again, simply by holding off as needed. If the conditions change drastically, I will either wait them out, or actually change the dials, but that is a rare occurance.
I have never even considered shooting a match by simply holding off from a no-wind zero, well unless it was in a no-wind condition, of course.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hmm, I'm not sure I see the advantage of holding off anything from the scoring disk. I am usually very mindful of the spotter in the prior hole when I take aim, but since the rings in the black are in increments of 1/2 MOA per side, that's what I use to do my hold offs. I just have a very simple fine crosshair with 1/8 MOA target dot, which also allows me to further refine the hold. I can't recall ever holding off paper in competition at any range, so I agree with that.</div></div>
and as for this same reason im getting a us optics sn3 3.8-22x44 with the cmg reticle. it has 1 moa elevation and windage hold over.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hmm, I'm not sure I see the advantage of holding off anything from the scoring disk. I am usually very mindful of the spotter in the prior hole when I take aim, but since the rings in the black are in increments of 1/2 MOA per side, that's what I use to do my hold offs. I just have a very simple fine crosshair with 1/8 MOA target dot, which also allows me to further refine the hold. I can't recall ever holding off paper in competition at any range, so I agree with that.</div></div>
and as for this same reason im getting a us optics sn3 3.8-22x44 with the cmg reticle. it has 1 moa elevation and windage hold over.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
Not sure who you're talking to Sig685, but my method is quite similar to yours. I dial wind best I can read it too.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to make sure I understand here.You are telling me that you have a no-wind zero and you never touch the windage turrets, ever. You always hold on on the target or your neighbor's target.
Am I understanding this correctly?
I will say this is very different from what I do and what I believe most of my fellow shooters at our club and the matches I have attended do.
Before I fire my first sighter, I will have dialed in what I think is the proper correction for the conditions as I detect them. Anemometer, flags, mirage, experience. I shoot my first sighter and then make the full correction, whatever I think it should be. Then I take my second sighter and many are the times I would like to convert either the second one, or both. I will then shoot my string without touching the dials again, simply by holding off as needed. If the conditions change drastically, I will either wait them out, or actually change the dials, but that is a rare occurance.
I have never even considered shooting a match by simply holding off from a no-wind zero, well unless it was in a no-wind condition, of course. </div></div>
Not sure who you're talking to Sig685, but my method is quite similar to yours. I dial wind best I can read it too.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to make sure I understand here.You are telling me that you have a no-wind zero and you never touch the windage turrets, ever. You always hold on on the target or your neighbor's target.
Am I understanding this correctly?
I will say this is very different from what I do and what I believe most of my fellow shooters at our club and the matches I have attended do.
Before I fire my first sighter, I will have dialed in what I think is the proper correction for the conditions as I detect them. Anemometer, flags, mirage, experience. I shoot my first sighter and then make the full correction, whatever I think it should be. Then I take my second sighter and many are the times I would like to convert either the second one, or both. I will then shoot my string without touching the dials again, simply by holding off as needed. If the conditions change drastically, I will either wait them out, or actually change the dials, but that is a rare occurance.
I have never even considered shooting a match by simply holding off from a no-wind zero, well unless it was in a no-wind condition, of course. </div></div>
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to make sure I understand here.You are telling me that you have a no-wind zero and you never touch the windage turrets, ever. You always hold on on the target or your neighbor's target.
Am I understanding this correctly?</div></div>
Hi Sig685
I believe you are addressing the question to me. The simple answer is yes. For me holding off is easier and requires less effort to calculate and hold then calculate spin the turret and hold centre. I would ask you if you have dropped a shot do to spinning the turret the wrong way (It happens) and is one thing that I avoid by holding off. With my night force I have a FOV of 2.34ft @ 42x which is 23.4 feet at 1000 in practical terms that means I can see 3 targets in my FOV and have the ability to hold off or on the other targets and still see my target in the scope. With the NPR2 reticle I am still able to line up the cross hair on the centre of my target for elevation and using the hash marks or the other target or a combination of the two to direct the shot onto mine for score. The only thing I may do differently is safe side my shots which means I am on the other side of the V bull in a prevailing wind to avoid dropping points for let up. (Example the wind is blowing left to right 5 mph I will estimate my wind value and break the shot with the expectation of being on the right side of the V bull).
Back to the scope question I find with the higher magnification I can hold off more precisely then if I was using a lower powered optic. I would opt for the higher magnification
P.S. I shot in matches were there is two to a firing point and we alternate shots so there is sometimes a large pause between shots if your not careful or plot you may forget what is on the scope and add the extra windage and come up with a dreaded blank target.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to make sure I understand here.You are telling me that you have a no-wind zero and you never touch the windage turrets, ever. You always hold on on the target or your neighbor's target.
Am I understanding this correctly?</div></div>
Hi Sig685
I believe you are addressing the question to me. The simple answer is yes. For me holding off is easier and requires less effort to calculate and hold then calculate spin the turret and hold centre. I would ask you if you have dropped a shot do to spinning the turret the wrong way (It happens) and is one thing that I avoid by holding off. With my night force I have a FOV of 2.34ft @ 42x which is 23.4 feet at 1000 in practical terms that means I can see 3 targets in my FOV and have the ability to hold off or on the other targets and still see my target in the scope. With the NPR2 reticle I am still able to line up the cross hair on the centre of my target for elevation and using the hash marks or the other target or a combination of the two to direct the shot onto mine for score. The only thing I may do differently is safe side my shots which means I am on the other side of the V bull in a prevailing wind to avoid dropping points for let up. (Example the wind is blowing left to right 5 mph I will estimate my wind value and break the shot with the expectation of being on the right side of the V bull).
Back to the scope question I find with the higher magnification I can hold off more precisely then if I was using a lower powered optic. I would opt for the higher magnification
P.S. I shot in matches were there is two to a firing point and we alternate shots so there is sometimes a large pause between shots if your not careful or plot you may forget what is on the scope and add the extra windage and come up with a dreaded blank target.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
trevor, do u zero your windage and hold for changes or never touch your windage turent at all?
trevor, do u zero your windage and hold for changes or never touch your windage turent at all?
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
Hi S.I.T.
I haven't had to touch my wind zero as of yet. I have not shot outside of Canada (yet) and have not experienced any shifts in my wind zero. (of course you are going to jinks me and i will bump my scope and have to change my zero but until that time. I will only turn the elevation turret.
I guess dial turning is more common amoung the 223/308 crowd because of wind effect on the bullet vs that of the 6.5/284 and straight 284. If you read articles by Jeff Cochrane or Larry Bartholome they are believers in holding off. (they both shoot 6.5/284) however for myself at this stage I am more comfortable with holding off.
Hi S.I.T.
I haven't had to touch my wind zero as of yet. I have not shot outside of Canada (yet) and have not experienced any shifts in my wind zero. (of course you are going to jinks me and i will bump my scope and have to change my zero but until that time. I will only turn the elevation turret.
I guess dial turning is more common amoung the 223/308 crowd because of wind effect on the bullet vs that of the 6.5/284 and straight 284. If you read articles by Jeff Cochrane or Larry Bartholome they are believers in holding off. (they both shoot 6.5/284) however for myself at this stage I am more comfortable with holding off.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
hold overs are good. i do them myself, however i find a consistent wind, zero to it, and the hold the differences. i dont find it necessary to touch my wind knob until the next string.
hold overs are good. i do them myself, however i find a consistent wind, zero to it, and the hold the differences. i dont find it necessary to touch my wind knob until the next string.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
I have never dropped a shot because I turned the turret the wrong way. Today.
This is one of the reason I "never" change the scope settings after the sighters.
I never want to hold on somebody else's target, what if the wind lets off?
I totally agree with you about high magnification.
So, where in Canada do you shoot F-class? Last time I competed in fullbore in Canada was at Connaught in the early 80s.
I have never dropped a shot because I turned the turret the wrong way. Today.
This is one of the reason I "never" change the scope settings after the sighters.
I never want to hold on somebody else's target, what if the wind lets off?
I totally agree with you about high magnification.
So, where in Canada do you shoot F-class? Last time I competed in fullbore in Canada was at Connaught in the early 80s.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
It would seem that we have a variation of the same you preload to the side and hold off while I simple hold off.
Knock on wood I cannot say the same I have drop a shot because I tried clicking my way to the V, thus my preference to hold off. I have studied the idea of preloading the wind to the predominant side and making smaller adjustments however i am not sold on it.
I have shot Connaught (beautiful range) this year and will likely go back July long weekend for national match assuming I get enough practice sessions in before the July weekend.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I never want to hold on somebody else's target, what if the wind lets off?</div></div>
As to your question, that is my reasoning to safe side the shots I have learned and read that let ups or quicker then pick ups and if you are watching the correct flags you should be able to react to the wind pick up sooner then left offs. Based on my basic wind effect (BWE) I have a .87moa pre mph of wind at 900m if I safe side the shots the wind would have to drop off 4 minutes before I would drop the shot. Assuming I am not shooting at the peak or bottom of the wind cycle I should always be on paper. I will take 3 vs. a 0 any time.
BWE is a term coined by Randolph Constantine in his formula for determining wind.
Trevor
It would seem that we have a variation of the same you preload to the side and hold off while I simple hold off.
Knock on wood I cannot say the same I have drop a shot because I tried clicking my way to the V, thus my preference to hold off. I have studied the idea of preloading the wind to the predominant side and making smaller adjustments however i am not sold on it.
I have shot Connaught (beautiful range) this year and will likely go back July long weekend for national match assuming I get enough practice sessions in before the July weekend.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I never want to hold on somebody else's target, what if the wind lets off?</div></div>
As to your question, that is my reasoning to safe side the shots I have learned and read that let ups or quicker then pick ups and if you are watching the correct flags you should be able to react to the wind pick up sooner then left offs. Based on my basic wind effect (BWE) I have a .87moa pre mph of wind at 900m if I safe side the shots the wind would have to drop off 4 minutes before I would drop the shot. Assuming I am not shooting at the peak or bottom of the wind cycle I should always be on paper. I will take 3 vs. a 0 any time.
BWE is a term coined by Randolph Constantine in his formula for determining wind.
Trevor
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
Trevor, if that technique works for you I am certainly not the one who will try to dissuade you from using it. My reticle is a very simple one, and that's important at my age. I have a clear, unobstructed view of the targets and with the little 1/8 MOA target dot, I can try to be very surgical in where I aim and I prefer to do my hold-offs on my own target using the rings as my measurement aids. This seems to have worked for me.
I am not saying it's better than using more complex reticles and using the various hash marks at other ticks on the reticle to aim, I was just presenting a case study, if you will, on how one person (me) does it with a very simple reticle in a high magnification scope.
Connaught is indeed a very beautiful range or so I remember it from 25 years ago. (My, how time flies.)
Trevor, if that technique works for you I am certainly not the one who will try to dissuade you from using it. My reticle is a very simple one, and that's important at my age. I have a clear, unobstructed view of the targets and with the little 1/8 MOA target dot, I can try to be very surgical in where I aim and I prefer to do my hold-offs on my own target using the rings as my measurement aids. This seems to have worked for me.
I am not saying it's better than using more complex reticles and using the various hash marks at other ticks on the reticle to aim, I was just presenting a case study, if you will, on how one person (me) does it with a very simple reticle in a high magnification scope.
Connaught is indeed a very beautiful range or so I remember it from 25 years ago. (My, how time flies.)
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
12-42 NF with 1/8 clicks and 40 MOA base/ring set up.
Burris double dovetail base and Burris signature rings with +20 and -20 MOA inserts for total of 40 MOA and under $100. Solid and durable as heck and will not slip. What more can you ask for?
BH
12-42 NF with 1/8 clicks and 40 MOA base/ring set up.
Burris double dovetail base and Burris signature rings with +20 and -20 MOA inserts for total of 40 MOA and under $100. Solid and durable as heck and will not slip. What more can you ask for?
BH
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
BountyHunter, the only problem with that is that Burris does not make 20 MOA inserts for their Signature rings. They make offset rings in 0, .005, .010 and .020 inch for their 1inch rings; and 0 and .010 inch inserts for their 30mm rings.. The 12-42NF has a 30mm tube.
The way an offset works is that you elevate the rear ring or lower the front ring or a combination of both for a set amount, depending on the distance between the rings. In other words, you are creating a slope. My calculations show that for a 20MOA slope, you need to raise the rear ring by .0055 inch for each inch of the distance between the rings.
In order to obtain a minimum of 20 MOA of offset on a 30mm ring with the rings set at 4 inches from each other, you need a difference of .022 inches. This can be .011 down in front and .011 up in back. Since the 30mm rings only have 0.010 inch offsets, you will reach about 18MOA by using a -0.010 in front and +0.010 in the rear. If the distance between the rings is less that 4 inches, the slope will increase. I can calculate the resulting slope if you give me the distance between the front of each ring.
40MOAs with the NF 12-42 is not in the cards unless the rings are less than 2 inches apart.
BountyHunter, the only problem with that is that Burris does not make 20 MOA inserts for their Signature rings. They make offset rings in 0, .005, .010 and .020 inch for their 1inch rings; and 0 and .010 inch inserts for their 30mm rings.. The 12-42NF has a 30mm tube.
The way an offset works is that you elevate the rear ring or lower the front ring or a combination of both for a set amount, depending on the distance between the rings. In other words, you are creating a slope. My calculations show that for a 20MOA slope, you need to raise the rear ring by .0055 inch for each inch of the distance between the rings.
In order to obtain a minimum of 20 MOA of offset on a 30mm ring with the rings set at 4 inches from each other, you need a difference of .022 inches. This can be .011 down in front and .011 up in back. Since the 30mm rings only have 0.010 inch offsets, you will reach about 18MOA by using a -0.010 in front and +0.010 in the rear. If the distance between the rings is less that 4 inches, the slope will increase. I can calculate the resulting slope if you give me the distance between the front of each ring.
40MOAs with the NF 12-42 is not in the cards unless the rings are less than 2 inches apart.
Re: Most popular F-class scoope
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=795824
Add the Burris shim kit for $7.99
BH
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=795824
Add the Burris shim kit for $7.99
BH
