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New M-BRACE Scope Mount $279 from American Rifle Company
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
I have an ATACR 7-35 on its way to me, to go on my new AXSA. The 0 moa mount is out of stock….is going to hurt to order the 1.5 height 10 moa option for that combo?
I'm thinking about ordering a 20MOA version for my Tikka CTR/Bravo build. I'm planning on slapping a Mark5 5-25x scope on it. Which height do you think I should go with? 1.26" or 1.50"?
I went with 1.5", probably more personal preference, just make sure the front of the scope will clear the barrel. With the 20MOA, 1.5", still could fit the Tenebraex flip cover on the front of my ZCO shade, I don't think it would have fit with a 1.26"
That's just a link to where to the site. Opening the link resets anything you clicked on to the pages default. IOW that isn't an answer.
M-BRACE SCOPE MOUNT
www.americanrifle.com
I have a tikka in a bravo. In the past I have been running 1.2ish height rings and recently swapped to 1.5” rings. I have found I prefer the taller mount to get a more natural vertical head orientation. Much more comfortable to shoot for me. I also changes from a cheek bone weld to a jaw bone weld.
Do you normally shoot bench rest or prone?
After doing a little more reading, it appears a 0 moa mount or m-brace rings will work for my application.
I want it somewhat capable at 1,000 yards. There's a private range with 2,000 yards available 3.5 hours away from me. So I shouldn't be too limited with a 20" 308 if I ever try it out. Most ranges around me are 100-500 yards. The longest distance I've shot was 300m at steel using a SBR with a Aimpoint Pro and a 18" SPR. So I'm kinda new to 308.
I went to Arena Training Facility this weekend to shoot the unknown distance range - goes to 2300 meters.
With my 20 MOA base and my M-brace 10 MOA mount and my Burris xtrIII mil, my max vertical dial up was to 21 mil. I needed ~25 mil to hit the 1 mile target. So for this, I would need 30 MOA base, or 20 MOA m-brace mount.
The new Burris III illuminated 5.5-30 is top dog. I could see very clear out to beyond a mile. My other rifle has the Arken sh4 6-24 and that is garbage compared to the Burris - you get what you pay for. No more cheap scopes for me.
I shoot mostly positional now, usually prone just for sight in, a lot of my shooting is off tripods now. I have found no downsides to the higher mount height other than it looks a little funny from what I’m used too. It is much more comfortable though and seems to be easier to naturally level my rifle as well as find targets since your head is more vertical. Just my observations so far.
As far as the cant of the mount. There is really no down side to a 20moa mount. Depending on how far you want to shoot, what scope you anre using and with what cartridge you will most likely need atleast a 20moa if you’re going 1k or farther.
Easy to figure out. Look up the specs on your scope for elevation travel. Cut it in half now run the ballistics on your rifle at the range you want to be able to shoot too with a ballistic app. Is half your scopes travel enough? If not choose the appropriate cant rings or base to give you enough travel. And yes I know that 1/2 the travel is t exact but will get you close enough to have an idea.
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I was looking at a Leupold Mark5 5-25x which has 35 mils of total elevation adjustment. Looking the Hornady ballistics app and older posts of member's experiences, it seems like I would need between 11-13 mils of adjustment at 1000 yards for a 308. I would have around 4 mils to spare if I don't get a 20moa mount. Because of the ranges around me, the typical distances would be much closer (100-500 yards). But I would like it to be able to reach 1000 yards if asked. I think keeping the Tikka's 0moa base and getting a 0moa mount/rings will work out. I'm assuming the 2000 yard range thats far from me has the option to have closer targets.
There's no reason with that scope not to get at least 20 MOA in the mount. Won't hurt anything and give you more elevation. Personally I would go with a 40 MOA mount with your 0 MOA base, that would give you about 28 mils of elevation.
I agree with Rob, get a 20moa. It doesn’t cost you anything extra vs a omoa and you won’t have to upgrade in the future should your cartridge, or range change in the future. All my nice rifles have 20moa base or mount. You can still easily get your 100 yard zero and stretch most of the common cartridges out to atleast 1400 yards. Literally no down side.
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I've decided my 1.26" (30mm, 10 moa) m-brace is just a little too tall for my needs, so I ordered some lower (0.94") m-brace rings to replace it.
I have a 624i mounted to it. Not much room but it works. For sure an aftermarket parallax lever will not fit.
Any usage reports on the M-Brace mount?
Other than a lack of accessories or the included level not being accurate, are there any issues or things that you like or dislike? Any part of the mount breaking or damaging the scope or rail?
Did you keep the mount or switch back to another brand?
This is an in depth review of the M-Brace and the only issue that he makes note of is the lack of washers on the rail bolts. One of the screws dug into the side clamp and removed the anodizing, possibly down into the aluminum.
Other than a lack of accessories or the included level not being accurate, are there any issues or things that you like or dislike? Any part of the mount breaking or damaging the scope or rail?
Did you keep the mount or switch back to another brand?
This is an in depth review of the M-Brace and the only issue that he makes note of is the lack of washers on the rail bolts. One of the screws dug into the side clamp and removed the anodizing, possibly down into the aluminum.
Love my M Brace. No issues for me and I am going away from my seekins rings I have been using toward the M-Brace
So, I like this guy’s videos. I don’t have time to watch the whole thing right now.
Did he lightly oil the bolts AND their mating surface? Because that’s in the directions.
I have a bunch of M10 rings, before the rebrand and slight redesign to Mbrace. I have never ever seen what happened to him.
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I run the sendit vertical on mbrace, just mount on the pic rails on the side. Or get the lrf hood with pic rail and mount atop. Since the brace takes up the least action real-estate of non cantilever uni mounts, put it on the action rail out past end of mbrace, lots of options.
Actually after checking out the review on YT, the reviewer pinned a note in the comments that says:
[link to 11:40 in vid] This is why the scope mount was gouged: One of the bolts (that one) had a factory defect, and the face was not flat. So when tightened, it acted like a drill. After watching this video, I inspected it closely. That fourth bolt had a mangled-in edge, causing a pushed in scallop, and was clearly a manufacturing defect. I'm writing ARC about it now (12/8/22) to see how they handle the warranty claim. I'll keep you updated on how they respond. Good catch!
If I was home. Work project, gone for a few weeks. I surely can when I get back. The sendit is designed with internal switch to operate horizontal or vertical. Arc sells a pic rail that interfaces with the serrated points, axially with scope tube. I just throw sendit on it vertically oriented on support side of rifle. The lrf bridge is pretty tall and has sendit a bit out of normal fov. If you have 2 or 3 slots left on your action rail in front of mount towards muzzle, put it there as the sendit is easier to translate in horizontal position. I do this most the time.
I think I understand but a visual will be nice if you remember. I also intend to run it with the brandt built optical piece. Running vertically makes it easier to pack away I'd imagine.
I run same sendit on several rifles so it's always removed after use. Brandt built lights are cool, novel idea. I played with one, found it distracting. I shoot both eyes open as my R eye is overly dominant. L eye sees enough sendit lights that I can level rifle while settling into bag and getting on target. Works for me, but that's the great thing about this industry, so many options to tailor to one's use or desires.
Any idea what stock this is? Just curious. Looks kinda cool.Here is a pic from post 162 of this thread:
I just ordered a couple sets of the new M-BRACE 1.26" 34mm rings so my Kahles K624i's will clear the handguard on my Christensen MPR's when running the sunshade and Kahels scope caps. They appear to be extremely solid rings and quality. They should be here by the end of the week. Can't wait to give them a try.
I've got a bunch of 5-25s and a couple 3-20s (not ultra shorts) in Mbrace mounts... They work perfect.
Going to give one of these M-Brace mounts a try.
Currently:
Waiting on a CDG & 6GT barrel that'll go in a Xylo.
Bought a Vortex Gen36-36 for it.
Just ordered a Tikka TAC A1 (20" .308 Win)that'll be here this week. It is replacing a Ruger RPR 20" .308 Win that simply never grew on me.
I'd thought I may just pull the scope & mounts off the Ruger and sell it. Gave it some thought and decided to keep the RPR and use it on range days when my son goes with me. It'll be fun having dueling .308's.
Didn't want to spring for another scope for the Tikka....so the M-Brace will be used to mount the Vortex Gen3 on it for use until the CDG & barrel arrive and it'll move over to the CDG.....or.....I may have to look for loose change under the sofa cushions and in my truck and spring for more glass.
Will be eating ramen noodles forever.....
Currently:
Waiting on a CDG & 6GT barrel that'll go in a Xylo.
Bought a Vortex Gen36-36 for it.
Just ordered a Tikka TAC A1 (20" .308 Win)that'll be here this week. It is replacing a Ruger RPR 20" .308 Win that simply never grew on me.
I'd thought I may just pull the scope & mounts off the Ruger and sell it. Gave it some thought and decided to keep the RPR and use it on range days when my son goes with me. It'll be fun having dueling .308's.
Didn't want to spring for another scope for the Tikka....so the M-Brace will be used to mount the Vortex Gen3 on it for use until the CDG & barrel arrive and it'll move over to the CDG.....or.....I may have to look for loose change under the sofa cushions and in my truck and spring for more glass.
Will be eating ramen noodles forever.....
The last two M-Brace mounts I bought from Browells Had three defective bolts. It soured me on them.
Maybe ARC got a batch of bad screws from the same manufacturer that makes Spuhr's butter soft screws that people are always complaining about stripping the torx head out of.
I'd also like to see ARC provide washers for the hardware (not because it's needed for strength, but to help keep the anodizing under the screw heads pretty)-- but with the design of the somewhat close fitting counterbores in the clamp bar and rings for the torx screws they might have to be custom reduced outer diameter washers, or use off the shelf close tolerance ring shims instead.
With any mount, I inspect under the screw heads for burrs and use a fine file or stone to dress them if necessary. Haven't had any hardware issues on any of my M-brace stuff, but the newest of mine was purchased about a year ago.
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