I’m pumped. I ordered a TimberKing 2020 last May. Sold my Jeep to buy it. Wasn’t due till September of this year. Some dude with nearly the same spec order as mine decided he wanted to go diesel, so I get mine 9 months early. I’ll be sawing some fence boards for the farm by lunch tomorrow.
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New sawmill coming tomorrow
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Nice. As a kid I watched Dad and his buddies use an Alaska mill, and a home built sawmill with a Stihl 090 do enough lumber to build one of them a big house.
First saw I ever ran professionallly was a Stihl 090. That was about like toting a small motorcycle around the woods. It had a compression release so you didnt break your wrist pulling the crank.
It will only be a couple months before you will be wanting to build a barn/ cover for it ! Ask me how I know .
Be prepared for a learning curve!
Be prepared for a learning curve!
Talk to member @jbailey, He's building a huge timberframe home and has had all his lumber, mostly black walnut and white oak, cut and milled.on his own farm. He built special curing sheds. Beautiful spot up in Fauquier Co,. Virginias.
Southern pine
Post are store-bought treated
Word to the wise , either stay away from any logs that were cut down next to a road or property line , or buy a metal detector and lots of blades .
Sawmilling is a lot of fun , enjoy .
Post are store-bought treated
Word to the wise , either stay away from any logs that were cut down next to a road or property line , or buy a metal detector and lots of blades .
Sawmilling is a lot of fun , enjoy .
My old neighbor has a like new Wood Miser LT-15 with all the bells and whistles. Says he'll sell it to me once he gets all his siding milled for his timber frame garage.
Hopefully he gets it done soon, as the State is going to be doing a timber sale nextdoor to me this coming Summer supposedly, and there's some huge old growth Spruce in there that are straight as an arrow. I spoke with the logging company that's trying to secure the contact, and they said they would put those big spruces aside for me.
Hopefully he gets it done soon, as the State is going to be doing a timber sale nextdoor to me this coming Summer supposedly, and there's some huge old growth Spruce in there that are straight as an arrow. I spoke with the logging company that's trying to secure the contact, and they said they would put those big spruces aside for me.
I’ve always heard when you get a mill that logs start showing up.
friggen awesome! #1 reason is the post is something positive. sorely needed!
second is, i ran across some milling videos on youtube and i find it fascinating. wish i knew someone around me that had one. thought about buying one….but i’d need hands on before i had balls big enough to make that jump.
second is, i ran across some milling videos on youtube and i find it fascinating. wish i knew someone around me that had one. thought about buying one….but i’d need hands on before i had balls big enough to make that jump.
People will want you to mill their stuff for free… or sell them figured black walnut for $0.50 per BF.
Good advice above about being wary of yard trees and the like.
A $200 metal detector is worth every penny.
Stickers need to be dry. Ensure your stacks are in spots with good air flow.
Yeah, yard trees eat blades. The bottom 8 feet have 95% of the nails, so use that for firewood.
You’re going to be surprised at the amount of waste that comes from milling.
Have a plan for your saw dust.
I have a scrap bin for the off cuts and stuff. People actually buy that shit.
Have a plan to get logs to and onto the mill.
I normally cut 6/4 or 8/4 for most flat sawn boards. 5/4 is a good compromise as it leaves wiggle room for planing and final finishing without getting too thin for most things.
Quartersawn is best for stability.
Have wedges, lol.
The possibilities are limitless.
Have a plan for your saw dust.
I have a scrap bin for the off cuts and stuff. People actually buy that shit.
Have a plan to get logs to and onto the mill.
I normally cut 6/4 or 8/4 for most flat sawn boards. 5/4 is a good compromise as it leaves wiggle room for planing and final finishing without getting too thin for most things.
Quartersawn is best for stability.
Have wedges, lol.
The possibilities are limitless.
Awesome.
As soon as....
As soon as I get caught up w things I'll get a saw mill also. Too fun and like big fat cock says, make a plan for the saw dust. Try to turn those lemons into lemonade. Pellet press?
As soon as....
As soon as I get caught up w things I'll get a saw mill also. Too fun and like big fat cock says, make a plan for the saw dust. Try to turn those lemons into lemonade. Pellet press?
hopefully our commie morons in charge will understand some logging needs to be done.
Hopefully you get some great stuff!!
BTW, your neck of the woods was aweseome for archery season. Sucked for rifle season. SO MANY PEOPLE....
SO MANY BEARS!!! loved that part of course.
One day, found 4 seperate bear tracks in the snow. distinctly different critters.
Almost worth trying for a bear only tag for early season, as one we saw was 300 easy
I always seem to get the ones that someone used as a fence post and has fence/barb wire in it
I know a guy who mixes it w dirt and composts it.
My saw shavings yearly from running the chainsaws gets put in my burn area and smolders into nothing. I did 5 dump truck loads this year
You gonna find sawing is only half the work. Seems like stacking and stickering is more work than sawing . You need to think about getting some materials on hand to cover your stacks . Most just use old roofing metal .
Compost was going to be my suggestion. You'd need t add a lot of lime if its oak, very acidic due to the tannin. Mix with dirt, leaves, lime and in a feww years great black soil. The dirt seems to speed the rotting process up.
When I was a kid we had several old oaks in the yard that had gotten so big, 5' diameter, they shaded the roof and caused moss and mold because it wouldn't dry. We cut several of them down and when we cut them up for fire wood found horseshoes, chains, steel wedges, railroad spikes, in the trees. Wore out a bunch of chins on the old Homelite...which was a bitch to start is the temperature was above freezing. Designed in the cold land by Canooks.I always seem to get the ones that someone used as a fence post and has fence/barb wire in it
Looks great.
If you are cutting hardwoods, the key skill is the drying. Running a mill is relatively easy (and quick). Drying it is where the knowledge and work comes in. Without proper drying, you are wasting your time. Maybe it is a different story with softwoods, but hardwoods move and check a lot.
Various drying thoughts as they came to my mind
1. End seal everything before you cut.
2. get a level base to put all this stuff on.
3. Keep it out of the sun and rain.
4. Don't dry too fast. Don't dry it next to your furnace for example.
5. Get it off the ground. 8" off, min.
6. Borate is great and easy to use. Get that going asap.
7. stickers key. All same dimension. All dry. Space them at the same distance as you go up the pile. I like somewhere between 24" and 36" off center between the stickers.
8. Air drying: takes a long time. 1" per year.
9. Get a moisture meter, a good one, not Chinese junk. Use it.
10. Thinner you cut, tougher it is to dry straight. More knots and grain movement, tougher it is to dry straight.
11. best stuff, bottom of the pile.
12. Get weights for top of pile. Get come-along straps, use them to 'keep pile together'.
13. Your pile is going to put off a lot of water, so don't let them dry next to anything that will rust.
14. different species are harder to dry. Maple is really hard to dry straight. Cherry is pretty easy. White oak is hard. Walnut and poplar in middle. Pine and the like probably the easiest.
15. I love quartersawn and rift sawn stuff, especially in the oaks. Easier to dry straight, plus look great and is very stable in furniture.
16. Don't cut your best logs/species first. Learn on the crappy stuff, especially on how to dry it.
If you are cutting hardwoods, the key skill is the drying. Running a mill is relatively easy (and quick). Drying it is where the knowledge and work comes in. Without proper drying, you are wasting your time. Maybe it is a different story with softwoods, but hardwoods move and check a lot.
Various drying thoughts as they came to my mind
1. End seal everything before you cut.
2. get a level base to put all this stuff on.
3. Keep it out of the sun and rain.
4. Don't dry too fast. Don't dry it next to your furnace for example.
5. Get it off the ground. 8" off, min.
6. Borate is great and easy to use. Get that going asap.
7. stickers key. All same dimension. All dry. Space them at the same distance as you go up the pile. I like somewhere between 24" and 36" off center between the stickers.
8. Air drying: takes a long time. 1" per year.
9. Get a moisture meter, a good one, not Chinese junk. Use it.
10. Thinner you cut, tougher it is to dry straight. More knots and grain movement, tougher it is to dry straight.
11. best stuff, bottom of the pile.
12. Get weights for top of pile. Get come-along straps, use them to 'keep pile together'.
13. Your pile is going to put off a lot of water, so don't let them dry next to anything that will rust.
14. different species are harder to dry. Maple is really hard to dry straight. Cherry is pretty easy. White oak is hard. Walnut and poplar in middle. Pine and the like probably the easiest.
15. I love quartersawn and rift sawn stuff, especially in the oaks. Easier to dry straight, plus look great and is very stable in furniture.
16. Don't cut your best logs/species first. Learn on the crappy stuff, especially on how to dry it.
Great advice.
Ensure you ground supports can support the weight without sinking.
Flat sawn will move a lot if not stickered and stacked right.
Even if dried perfectly straight it can/will move around when move to another environment or stored incorrectly. Like when people buy it and then lay it on the ground in their garage. Idiots.
It's kinda like when someone finds out you reload and they want you to load some ammo for them for free .........
It’s exactly the same!It's kinda like when someone finds out you reload and they want you to load some ammo for them for free .........
They were cutting some old growth across the street from my moms place last summer. Couldn’t let all those old oak trees go to the landfill so I snagged a couple trunks and had them milled up. Can’t wait for these to dry and get to do something with them
what are those reading w moisture meter? they have dried enough to loose its bark and grey out before you cut them, so i bet at least half the water is gone.
live oak?
in firewood terms, here in florida, if i processed logs like that into firewood, after split, its only a week in the sun to vapor off and its then great firewood
An old logger I used to cut for told me the hands sown best way to cure hardwoods is to roll the loge into a creek or pond. I reckon that made them dry slower without checking. May not be feasible in your case.
Interesting article on that here:
Interesting article on that here:
Any of you guys have any real world experience with building milled log i.e. D-Log homes, specifically long term resilience and life spans of the different species of softwood used. My only two options (in quantity), choosing between Lodgepole (Pine) or Spruce, and the only reason to get a mill, to build a small cabin. I've read conflicting information with some saying Spruce is not a good choice for building as it decays/rots quickly.
Give me some real world experience and facts, and please keep uninformed opinion out of the conversation.
I want to go with Spruce, as I will have access to quite a bit that will be large diameter, straight grain, minimal knots, whereas the Lodgepole (mostly beetle kill) will be smaller in diameter, with lots of checking, knots, etc. I want to do 8" square milled logs.
Give me some real world experience and facts, and please keep uninformed opinion out of the conversation.
I want to go with Spruce, as I will have access to quite a bit that will be large diameter, straight grain, minimal knots, whereas the Lodgepole (mostly beetle kill) will be smaller in diameter, with lots of checking, knots, etc. I want to do 8" square milled logs.
If youre going to use softwoods like spruce make sure there is no ground contact and keep it stained or preserved every couple years. Its a lot of extra work.
As a kid I grew up in a cabin built in 1840 out of solid red and white oak with 16" thick walls, Cut tight with only a little chinking on the outside more for cosmetic purposes.
Underwater logging (as described above) is actually quite the 'niche' thing and has been for over 25 years. There are still flooded valleys in B.C. (due to dams) that literally flooded whole forested lowlands. Those underwater trees are well worth the money for extracting. And yes, I'm talking about it starting with actual scuba-suited guys going down and using a compressed-air powered chainsaw to cut the trees 'up' because when they let go, they go flying up to the surface.
There are a number of water-bodies around, where 'torpedo trees' still launch out of the water because the root-mass gave way. Sounds incredible, but it's true. You'd think that it would be rotten away already, or at lease 'water logged', but so many aren't.
There are a number of water-bodies around, where 'torpedo trees' still launch out of the water because the root-mass gave way. Sounds incredible, but it's true. You'd think that it would be rotten away already, or at lease 'water logged', but so many aren't.
25 years ago I was into studying about this hard. It was difficult w really no internet though.
With the cold water and deep depths of the fresh water, the logs are preserved.
Between, as Sean says and the sunken logs from transport across the lake, literally there are millions of old growth trees waiting for harvest.
Something happens to the submerged logs, like oxygen displaced by water.
Stratavarious, the violin maker, makes their violins out of the wood because of the incredible sound the wood makes.
Me?
I would love to set up operations to float those old logs. Maybe my next lifetime.
What a job. I wonder if the tree shooting to the surface tends to suck the sawyer with it? That could be dangerous.
Imagine your out in your small boat for a quiet day of fishing and all of a suddn a freaking 200 foot old growth tree comes threw the bottom of your boat. Wow.
I’m getting ready to order a small bandsaw mill to go along with my 880 chainsaw mill. Was looking for something cheap preferably under $5k ended up on a woodland mill so I’ll be ordering that soon. I’ve been passing on good wood that’s under 24” diameter because it’s a hassle to mill with the 880.
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Another part of the shop that brings in good income is the milling part.
Everyone wants wide slabs until they realize they have no way to work them, lol.
At the mothership I have a full shop to joint, thickness, and rip lumber as well. I charge $50 an hour for mill work. Sounds like a lot, but the power tools work very fast and can mill a lot of lumber fast.
Then they take it home and put it on the garage floor and it cups, lol.
Everyone wants wide slabs until they realize they have no way to work them, lol.
At the mothership I have a full shop to joint, thickness, and rip lumber as well. I charge $50 an hour for mill work. Sounds like a lot, but the power tools work very fast and can mill a lot of lumber fast.
Then they take it home and put it on the garage floor and it cups, lol.
Sawdust is nice to lay down in stalls. Way easier to clean up and cheaper than hay.
You’re only $50 an hour to mill? Man I’m $140/hr!
There’s a certain type of customer that buys a 50” wide piece of wood, they typically know what they’re looking for and know what it costs which I like dealing with. If you look at any of the big companies that sell slabs like GL veneer or Berkshire, they’re pretty pricey so when a local wood worker gets commissioned for a 6k table and sees my slabs $500 cheaper than he priced online it’s almost always a sale.
I’m doing a $3k white oak table top right now that is just two pieces of white oak joined in the middle ~40” wide and 100” long. No base just a finished top.
$50 keeps me in smokes, ass, and parts/maintenance, lol. No partial hours. If I turn the power on in the shop for your board, that’s an hour.
Doesn’t take me long to mill a board, or much effort. Throw it on the jointer, feed it to the planer, rip it to size if needed. Literally takes me no time or effort with the power tools.
I bought the mill to provide wood for my hobby. It snowballed from there to what it is now, lol.
I still prefer hand tool wood working.
Doesn’t take me long to mill a board, or much effort. Throw it on the jointer, feed it to the planer, rip it to size if needed. Literally takes me no time or effort with the power tools.
I bought the mill to provide wood for my hobby. It snowballed from there to what it is now, lol.
I still prefer hand tool wood working.
I believe they were post oak, I haven’t put a moisture meter on them them, logs were cut in May I believe, and I had them milled in I believe October. Being ignorant, I thought they would have been dry by then. Wrongo, they were still dripping wet after they were cut.
I don't know where your at or if you plan on building where you will need building inspections and permits , but structural lumber in that instance will need to be graded . I ran into this, but there is a solution . You can hire a lumber inspector to come out and grade / stamp your lumber for a reasonable price . If you need anymore info on that then let me know.
Also it will have to have air dried and be below a certain moisture level for it to pass and be graded , unless you take it to a kiln . So you want to figure that into your time frame .
A year per inch of thickness.
Even then you can run into issues of wood movement bringing it in from the outside, and into the garage.
Then depending if you are building inside furniture, the wood will want to move again when you go from the garage/shop (unless climate controlled) to inside the house, lol.
Wood can move after dimensioning.
I thought you meant you were $50/hr to actually mill the log into lumber. Round here $50 doesn’t get you a short that needs epoxy or something with a massive check going through it.
$50/ hr shop time is decent money though. Especially if that’s your minimum.
I was planning on starting my first table at the end of summer/fall. I have access to a kiln I can stick them in for a fee. I was going to stick it in there for a month before I worked it.
Also your sawmill services are cheap af.
Local mill here charges $250/hr for the big saw with a 67” max diameter, and $150/hr for the 24” diameter saw.
Kiln is 50c per board foot per month and 50c per board foot packing fee
To get a log on my mill is negotiable. I take trades, a wood percentage, or cash. Also depends on the log, and how they want it cut.
Sorry about the confusion. I was talking about machine time like jointing, planing, and ripping from raw boards to spec. after purchase of their boards.
Sorry about the confusion. I was talking about machine time like jointing, planing, and ripping from raw boards to spec. after purchase of their boards.
Yea I’m talking about machine time. Big saw is $250 to run if you bring your own wood
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