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Why not build a .50 Alaskan...Have been wanting to build a big bore bolt action for subsonics…..so what about a .458 socom barrel for the sig cross? Would make a killer thermal hunter
The 169's were the ticket. Will still need some fine tuning but it was solid right out of the box. They're longer with the ogive set further back, much like the Hornady 200 ELDX. With something like the Hornady 155 match, I can load them and get .002 off the jam (not the lands). Couldn't achieve that with the Sierra 169's so I loaded to mag length, 2.865", although I use the ogive measurement with the HornadyWill be interested in how the 169s work out for you. Just about out of 168s so maybe it’s time for a change.
Judging by how it looks, it seems like it would be similar to shooting an AR (fundamentally and feel). Which is a whole different ballgame compared to bolt-actions. Been shooting guns my whole life, but it took me a long time to get comfortable enough to shoot an AR with any real precision and consistency. And even after all these years of shooting them, it still feels weird when I jump from bolt to AR.The 169's were the ticket. Will still need some fine tuning but it was solid right out of the box. They're longer with the ogive set further back, much like the Hornady 200 ELDX. With something like the Hornady 155 match, I can load them and get .002 off the jam (not the lands). Couldn't achieve that with the Sierra 169's so I loaded to mag length, 2.865", although I use the ogive measurement with the Hornady
comparator. I started at 43 grains of 4046 and loaded up to 45.5 in half grain increments. Had to stop at 45 due to pressure signs. But 43, 43.5, 44, 44.5 were all sub MOA. I can't remember the jump measurements off the top of my head but I'll measure again and post when I get a chance.
I also made two changes. First, I moved the scope back one position on the rail. It had been right on the seam between where the hand guard meets the receiver. Second, I stopped pressing my cheek tightly against the cheek weld. This helped tremendously in getting rid of "the pulse" as I looked through the scope.
This is the first bolt gun I've owned and I find it difficult to shoot well likely due to the lack of weight and some of it due to environmental factors I have to work around at a public range. So I always question my results; how much of it is the gun and how much of it is me. I've never taken any formal rifle course or precision shooting class and should probably read a bit more on technique. It's the man/read the directions, look at the map conundrum I guess.Judging by how it looks, it seems like it would be similar to shooting an AR (fundamentally and feel). Which is a whole different ballgame compared to bolt-actions. Been shooting guns my whole life, but it took me a long time to get comfortable enough to shoot an AR with any real precision and consistency. And even after all these years of shooting them, it still feels weird when I jump from bolt to AR.
The bigger the better, but also concerned about suppressor availability. With running subs, will want a serviceable suppressor so probably going to be limited to a pistol can, in .45cal.Why not build a .50 Alaskan...
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Are there any common wildcat 50 subsonic choices for a bolt action other than the Whispers?
When looking through various forums I've found numerous one offs but was wondering if there is one that is easier or more common (as common as such an oddball can be). Maybe a smaller Smith that has his own take on it. I've heard of one using cut off WSM cases but couldn't find much on it. Even...www.snipershide.com
I feel your pain. Purchased a Kimber for hunting that was very light. The caliber was hardly a kicker (6.5CM) but despite our best efforts, neither my son or myself could ever get it to shoot consistently. Finally sold it. Very light rifles have their purpose, but some weight really helps. (Nailed a deer through the neck/spine with my 9 pound Weatherby Tuesday evening)This is the first bolt gun I've owned and I find it difficult to shoot well likely due to the lack of weight and some of it due to environmental factors I have to work around at a public range. So I always question my results; how much of it is the gun and how much of it is me. I've never taken any formal rifle course or precision shooting class and should probably read a bit more on technique. It's the man/read the directions, look at the map conundrum I guess.
I may actually try adding weights or using a sled for load development just to take the shooter out of the equation although the challenge is part of the fun. I find my 308 AR easier to shoot in some ways. I brought both out this time, shot the cross first, moved over to the POF and caught myself reaching for the bolt handle a few times, LOL.
I am sure there is something within this thread but I am going to ask anyway. lol
What, if any, has anyone found to be the best muzzle device for the Cross? Main purpose will be hunting and a friendly shooting out to 600yds.
Break? Comp?
I am sure everyone is going to say put a can on it but that is not a reality for this hunting season. Unless some here in NC wants to let me borrow theirs.![]()
I am sure there is something within this thread but I am going to ask anyway. lol
What, if any, has anyone found to be the best muzzle device for the Cross? Main purpose will be hunting and a friendly shooting out to 600yds.
Break? Comp?
I am sure everyone is going to say put a can on it but that is not a reality for this hunting season. Unless some here in NC wants to let me borrow theirs.![]()
The threads are 5/8”, 24 threads per inch.I have yet to pick mine up so I can not do it, but does anyone know what the diameter of the barrel is at the crown? This is for the purchase of a brake.
I know the thread pitch. Trying to match up the muzzle device the best I can so it doesnt look absurd.The threads are 5/8”, 24 threads per inch.
A TBAC Ultra 7 would look awesome. And it's a very light suppressor so it goes well with the package.I know the thread pitch. Trying to match up the muzzle device the best I can so it doesnt look absurd.
So not the diameter at the crown, but before the treads, .75”. There is also a taper cap.I know the thread pitch. Trying to match up the muzzle device the best I can so it doesnt look absurd.
That is exactly what I was looking for, thank you!! I guess I should have said the barrel thickness behind the threads.So not the diameter at the crown, but before the treads, .75”. There is also a taper cap.
First shots of the Cross 300 win mag. (Long action)
Where’s my small action in 223?I want one!
Just shows what a bunch of tarts we are when something new and shiny appears and we are distracted immediately!Where’s my small action in 223?![]()
Agree. I just wish Sig would honor their word and provide the products they already hooked us with. Got the 6.5 the week it came out and have been patiently waiting for the 277 fury to become available. Next month will be the 2nd year that I attempt Elk hunting with a small round. Proof reserch posted on their IG about development work for the cross and hope they make a carbon 277 barrel in 22 inch so I can finally own what I wanted 2 years ago.Just shows what a bunch of tarts we are when something new and shiny appears and we are distracted immediately!
Hey everyone, bought myself a sig cross prs the other day. I was trying to install the area 419 hellfire match brake with adapter and noticed the barrel threads bottom out on the adapter, causing a gap. Scared to torque the adapter down incase it galls the threads.
Any have experience with this? What have others done? Have you just shimmed it?
Appreciate any info
View attachment 7984699View attachment 7984700
Did you use the barrel taper spacer? Looks like you might be up against the taper.Hey everyone, bought myself a sig cross prs the other day. I was trying to install the area 419 hellfire match brake with adapter and noticed the barrel threads bottom out on the adapter, causing a gap. Scared to torque the adapter down incase it galls the threads.
Any have experience with this? What have others done? Have you just shimmed it?
Appreciate any info
See post #2,431Does anyone know the thread size/pitch on the barrel tenon?
Yes, it appears you are missing the tapered shoulder for using non-sig suppressors. Once installed you should should be ok.Hey everyone, bought myself a sig cross prs the other day. I was trying to install the area 419 hellfire match brake with adapter and noticed the barrel threads bottom out on the adapter, causing a gap. Scared to torque the adapter down incase it galls the threads.
Any have experience with this? What have others done? Have you just shimmed it?
Appreciate any info
View attachment 7984699View attachment 7984700
See post #2,431
Mind sharing your recipe?Had a great day out to 1100 yards with the 308 and 168 ELD-Ms despite crazy winds.
My son shot past 100 for his first time getting his first 2 shots dead on at 1100 as well.
View attachment 7987016
168 ELD-M 44.5 IMR 4064Mind sharing your recipe?
Have you had any luck with the 8.6 on the Cross yet? Very interested in an 8.6 barrel for my Crosswe're going to be testing the 8.6blk in one of our rigs soon. goal being to have a 12" one soon.
Have you had any luck with the 8.6 on the Cross yet? Very interested in an 8.6 barrel for my Cross
Well said. I do not understand the obsession with the 8.6. The 338 Federal was never really appreciated and can cover so much ground for a hunting round. The 8.6 covers it well...within a stupid short range.our 16" 6.5 twist barrel is very accurate so far. Tweaking some things and hoping to have it available for order in a month or so.
I will say though, I still think the 338FED is vastly superior for any realistic hunting use(except for shooting hogs quietly inside of 150-200yrds) A very under appreciated round really. We have a few of them around in 338fed and they are super fun to shoot. With some hand loads, should be able to keep a 225gr bullet supersonic past 1300yrds.. out of an 18" barrel
What I am always told when I think a new round does nothing any better than an older round does. It's marketing.Well said. I do not understand the obsession with the 8.6. The 338 Federal was never really appreciated and can cover so much ground for a hunting round. The 8.6 covers it well...within a stupid short range.
I’ll be in for a 338 fed barrel for the cross
What I am always told when I think a new round does nothing any better than an older round does. It's marketing.
The only round that really broke anything resembling new ground (in this century and much of the last) was the most unlikely, the 6.5 Creedmoor. Ballistically a twin to the 6.5x55 and the 260 Remington, the new ground was packaging of the powder in a case that provided room for sufficient powder while still allowing the extended throat, minimizing case stretch and promoting easy feeding from a magazine. Finally, insisting that a proper twist rate for the 6.5 caliber be utilized. (a most unlikely caliber.)
slowly but surely, we will have them. I am hoping within a month or 2, but it's impossible to get an exact ETA.How are the barrel extensions coming along? Still waiting so its easier to go back and forth from burning up my cheap 308 ammo and components to hunting.
Here’s the best upgrade you can do to a Cross. Sell it at a loss and buy a Fix. Butt locks up tight, doesn’t flop and rattle around when folded, LOP doesn’t collapse when shooting it, better trigger, better accuracy.
I had really no complaints about the accuracy, it was the rest of the rifle that sucked. I looked over a half dozen crosses after I got mine that were on dealer shelves and every last one had the same issues as mine. They’re just cheaply built rifles and IMO a lot of people just don’t know what they’re looking at and don’t notice or don’t realize something is wrong unless it’s majorly wrong. Or they just don’t care.
A $1500 rifle should be built with far better QC than the cross gets, it should cost $800-$1000 for what you’re actually getting. Yeah it has some cool features you’re paying for but they’re poorly executed. An RPR for example has better build quality than a cross.