New Sig CROSS

[jbuck88]

The problem with a quick change barrel system is the tolerances have to be held a lot closer, which means more expensive to produce.

A barrel nut system is cheap and easy to produce. Screw the barrel in until its head spaced correctly then lock it down.

 

[Gtscotty]

A thread I saw showed an action wrench for changing the barrel. Are those available anywhere?

I look forward to more aftermarket support. It seems like a quick change barrel design would be simple to devise.

You just use an AR barrel nut wrench, I used a Magpul Armorer's wrench to pull my Cross barrel nut.

The problem with a quick change barrel system is the tolerances have to be held a lot closer, which means more expensive to produce.

A barrel nut system is cheap and easy to produce. Screw the barrel in until its head spaced correctly then lock it down.

Not in this case, the bolt head floats a little bit, the critical dimensions should all be in the bolt head and spacing of the extension, just like all the relatively cheap AR barrels floating around. Except the Cross should be even simpler because the barrel extension is headspaced with a Savage style barrel nut. Two nuts total, one AR style barrel nut to secure the barrel/extension assembly to the receiver and one Savage style barrel nut to headspace the extension on the barrel.

I pulled my .308 barrel and swapped with a guy for a 6.5 barrel, ours mounted right back up and spaced fine. It's a neat system that should be pretty simple and repeatable.

 

[jbuck88]

You just use an AR barrel nut wrench, I used a Magpul Armorer's wrench to pull my Cross barrel nut.



Not in this case, the bolt head floats a little bit, the critical dimensions should all be in the bolt head and spacing of the extension, just like an the relatively cheap AR barrels floating around. Except the Cross should be even simpler because the barrel extension is headspaced with a Savage style barrel nut.

I'm pretty sure we are saying the same thing. A savage style nut system is cheaper and easier to mass produce.

 

[Gtscotty]

I'm pretty sure we are saying the same thing. A savage style nut system is cheaper and easier to mass produce.

Cheaper by the cost of the barrel extension I suppose. But then there's probably some savings from not having those critical dimensions, or strength requirements in the receiver itself.

 

[Wagonteeth]

I pulled my .308 barrel and swapped with a guy for a 6.5 barrel, ours mounted right back up and spaced fine. It's a neat system that should be pretty simple and repeatable.

I said actuon wrench but meant action block or action bar.

How did you hold the action to swap, or did you hold the barrels for the swap?

 

[Gtscotty]

I said actuon wrench but meant action block or action bar.

How did you hold the action to swap, or did you hold the barrels for the swap?

Not exactly gunsmith approved, but I cut and then sanded a chunk of 2x4 to fit snuggly up through the mag well and into the action area, then I clamped the bottom of the wood block in a vise. I'd guess a barrel vise would probably be the preferred way to do this though.

Here's what the double nut setup looks like btw.

 

[Wagonteeth]

Excellent onfo. I've done similar for a block by clamping an AR upper between two pieces of red oak, so not a bad method and the barrel nut only torques to 40 ft lbs so not too much pressure

 

[Burdy]

View attachment 7706869

That's with my Nomad 30 and a Plan A mount. So about 5.5 oz lighter with my Nomad Ti and Ti plan A type mount ~ 8lb 14 oz.

Pretty light all up for what it is, but a hair over 2 lbs heavier than my Kimber Montana with can, lighter scope and sling.

What does that scope weigh?

 

[Burdy]

Yeah that's not counting bipod. I'm going to try and leave the bipod at least in the truck this year and either shoot off my tripod or backpack. Plus I don't like it stabbing me in the back

Use a Heathen Systems Bipod. For a 3.5 oz and $99 sacrifice its better than not carrying one at all.

 

[Burdy]

Sure wish the advertised “First Lite” factory camo was available. I thought it looked good.

I think the gun is inexpensive enough...and therefore ripe for a rattle can job.

 

[Ronin_64]

I think the gun is inexpensive enough...and therefore ripe for a rattle can job.

Absolutely, I am not afraid to wield a rattle can, just liked the factory pattern/color scheme and they bothered to advertise it.

 

[Bluedog82]

Any pics of rattle can jobs for inspiration before I do mine?

 

[Ronin_64]

Wont claim inspiration, but open to ridicule. Rem 700 and Sig 556

 

[Rockfish Dave]

My nephew's new hunting rifle.

 

[Gtscotty]

What does that scope weigh?

It's a Burris Signature HD 2-10x40, website says 17.6oz. It was about as light as I could find with a decent holdover reticle (my preference for hunting out to 400 yds) in that magnification and ~$500 price range.

 

[shooterpunk]

Does the bolt run on steel raceways or is it aluminum?
I'm getting the 6.5 creedmoor this week and couldn't be more excited.

 

[Gtscotty]

Does the bolt run on steel raceways or is it aluminum?
I'm getting the 6.5 creedmoor this week and couldn't be more excited.

Aluminum, like an AR.

 

[shooterpunk]

Is there any worry about that wearing out? Although I guess in an ar the BCG is steel so I guess no worries.

 

[BruceLeroy]

Much less likely to wear than an AR due to the low velocity and force on the bolt during operation.

 

[shooterpunk]

Got my Cross today! Can't to take it out. I out my Sightron s-tac sitting on it and a Hawkins muzzle brake.

 

[Greyswandir]

View attachment 7715315
Got my Cross today! Can't to take it out. I out my Sightron s-tac sitting on it and a Hawkins muzzle brake.

It's crazy how light it is right?

 

[421sd]

Any way to tighten the stock hinge? Mine has developed some up and down play when locked. Don't worry about it when it's folded but when locked it should be tight.

 

[BruceLeroy]

Loctite the main bolt is about all you can do. Mine worked loose after each firing trip until I put blue loctite on it. No issues now.

 

[421sd]

Mine has play in the hinge itself. Up and down play it's tight side to side.The bolts are tight and I used loctite on them.

 

[ma smith]

Mine has play in the hinge itself. Up and down play it's tight side to side.The bolts are tight and I used loctite on them.

Sig Cust Svc and ask about Warranty service or repair options.

 

[Wagonteeth]

How would you guys rate your accuracy with the Cross? I have yet to shoot mine but will be next week.

I've seen phenomenal reports and disappointing reports.

In my view, if it isn't consistently capable of superb accuracy, then it isn't very interesting and the benefits of lightweight compactness are irrelevant. If you give feedback on this question, please note caliber and ammo/bullet weight/type.

Mine is a 6.5 but I'm hungry for an 18 to 20" .308 barrel.

 

[BruceLeroy]

What is "superb accuracy" and do you expect that from a rifle that is not marketed as a precision rifle?
Some are getting very good accuracy. I am not. I have the 308 and have found a few sub moa loads, but barely. This is what I expect from this lightweight, folding stock, huntingg rifle that is a do it all for me.
I feel expectations were too high for this rifle in general.

 

[RideWest]

Mine has play in the hinge itself. Up and down play it's tight side to side.The bolts are tight and I used loctite on them.

Mine has a slight amount of vertical play, but it kind of depends on how I open it. Sounds odd, but sometimes it has a little less play, and sometimes a little more, but not enough to be an issue for me.

I know when Sig did the recall for the safety issue, people said that they also tighten up the hinge in some cases. So you could always contact Sig and see if they have any suggestions.

 

[RideWest]

How would you guys rate your accuracy with the Cross? I have yet to shoot mine but will be next week.

I've seen phenomenal reports and disappointing reports.

In my view, if it isn't consistently capable of superb accuracy, then it isn't very interesting and the benefits of lightweight compactness are irrelevant. If you give feedback on this question, please note caliber and ammo/bullet weight/type.

Mine is a 6.5 but I'm hungry for an 18 to 20" .308 barrel.

I have a 6.5 CM, and shoot hand loads, but I didn't spend a lot of time on fine tuning them. Running fairly generic 140gr Berger hybrids or 140gr Barnes match burner bullets with 41.5 gr of H4350 or RL 16 powder loaded a little longer COAL at around 2.875” inches.

I have shot three round groups a few times, I would say probably average about .5-.625”, but I haven’t spent a lot of time worrying about group size or trying to get the smallest possible groups with my hand loads.

 

[midSCarolina]

How would you guys rate your accuracy with the Cross? I have yet to shoot mine but will be next week.

I've seen phenomenal reports and disappointing reports.

In my view, if it isn't consistently capable of superb accuracy, then it isn't very interesting and the benefits of lightweight compactness are irrelevant. If you give feedback on this question, please note caliber and ammo/bullet weight/type.

Mine is a 6.5 but I'm hungry for an 18 to 20" .308 barrel.

My .308 shot .5-.75” @100 consistently (I thought it was a pretty easy rifle to shoot) but it also had a consistent cold bore POI shift (just cold bore, not clean). Sig says:

“It is common for a rifle to have a cold bore zero, and this is not exclusive to Cross Rifles. You have a very consistent cold bore zero (given to the ammunition in use) . We recommend you dial in and hold this cold bore zero. We have been taught this at the Sig Sauer Academy Long Range Rifle course during training. With practice, it is easily accounted for.”

This isn’t something that I wanted to put up with. I haven’t seen too many other ppl so maybe it isn’t as common as they made it seem. If it weren’t for that, I would have really been happy with the accuracy.

 

[Gtscotty]

I have been quite happy with how mine has shot, both as a .308 and a 6.5, no cold bore shift thankfully. Expectations should, of course, realistically account for the fact that this is a $1,500 8-9lb all up factory hunting rifle, and not a $4,000 25lb custom match gun. It's also a bit more demanding on the shooter to shoot small with a rifle you have to hold and drive, with a hunting weight trigger vice a heavy match gun with a 6oz switch perched on bags and fired in free recoil.

 

[ma smith]

The cross is inherently accurate, but as noted above, the shooters ability to drive a lightweight rifle is another topic.

 

[Wagonteeth]

What is "superb accuracy" and do you expect that from a rifle that is not marketed as a precision rifle?
Some are getting very good accuracy. I am not. I have the 308 and have found a few sub moa loads, but barely. This is what I expect from this lightweight, folding stock, huntingg rifle that is a do it all for me.
I feel expectations were too high for this rifle in general.

There's the rub. It was pushed as a crossover between a precision rifle and a backpacking hunting rifle, somewhere riding the fence between the two.

"with the input of hunters, military snipers and elite long-range shooters, the CROSS rifle was created to meet the demands of both precision long-range shooting and extreme backcountry hunting."

This statement says what it should be and my question is simply, is it what its proposed to be?

When I decided on the Cross, the competition I was considering was an older SSG69, a Tikka Tac A1, or a Bergara HMR.

I know that the Cross is substantially different than the other three, those being heavy long guns. But I was believing that it would be capable of hitting the upper edge of accuracy of these three.

I'll know about mine next week. I'm setting mine up to use swappable optics. One being a Nikon 2.5-10 tactical amd the other, a 1-6.5x24 Bushnell Elite that I can use NV with.

 

[ma smith]

Field accuracy is a composite of multiple factors

1) system accuracy (eg action/barrel/ammo quality)
2) shooter accuracy (eg target acquisition and skilled trigger break,)
3) positional stability (eg establishing a good position to support (1) and (2))
4) quality firing solution (assessment and mangaement of DOPE/environmentals/spotting etc.)

liteweight but inherently accurate rifle is a type (1) system.

Yet as shooters....we are perpetually working on (2), (3) (4).

 

[BruceLeroy]

I like the idea of a switchable optic option. I have a 4.5-27 on it right now with a LPVO or a 2-12 available as well.
I tend to not get pushed by the jargon in this industry. They hinted a bit too hard at the PRS style shooting. This gun will not compete with thos, as I am sure you are aware. I have seen some accurate enough to do so, but then there is mine...barely holding an inch. It makes me want to order a barrel from International Barrels and start over.

 

[brazz04]

There's the rub. It was pushed as a crossover between a precision rifle and a backpacking hunting rifle, somewhere riding the fence between the two.

"with the input of hunters, military snipers and elite long-range shooters, the CROSS rifle was created to meet the demands of both precision long-range shooting and extreme backcountry hunting."

This statement says what it should be and my question is simply, is it what its proposed to be?

When I decided on the Cross, the competition I was considering was an older SSG69, a Tikka Tac A1, or a Bergara HMR.

I know that the Cross is substantially different than the other three, those being heavy long guns. But I was believing that it would be capable of hitting the upper edge of accuracy of these three.

I'll know about mine next week. I'm setting mine up to use swappable optics. One being a Nikon 2.5-10 tactical amd the other, a 1-6.5x24 Bushnell Elite that I can use NV with.

I'm a rifle novice compared with most on this site and don't shoot a lot, maybe every other month or once a month when I have time (I have 420 rounds through mine thus far). Local range goes out to 300 yards and I've shot a bunch of 5 round groups from 100-300 that are in the 3/4 MOA range. You can clearly see me pulling shots in some of the groups but even with those flyers, many are under an MOA. That said I don't think the rifle has an accuracy problem if pretty well anyone can pick it up and shoot sub MOA groups, but maybe I'm wrong there. This last range trip was going well until it wasn't and thats when I discovered my new Athlon Helos Gen 2 was broken (entire eye piece was rotating when changing the magnification, they already received it and are shipping a new one to me).

 

[Bluedog82]

I'm a rifle novice compared with most on this site and don't shoot a lot, maybe every other month or once a month when I have time (I have 420 rounds through mine thus far). Local range goes out to 300 yards and I've shot a bunch of 5 round groups from 100-300 that are in the 3/4 MOA range. You can clearly see me pulling shots in some of the groups but even with those flyers, many are under an MOA. That said I don't think the rifle has an accuracy problem if pretty well anyone can pick it up and shoot sub MOA groups, but maybe I'm wrong there. This last range trip was going well until it wasn't and thats when I discovered my new Athlon Helos Gen 2 was broken (entire eye piece was rotating when changing the magnification, they already received it and are shipping a new one to me).

View attachment 7716735
View attachment 7716734

Besides the lemon factor of your particular Helios, how do you like the scope? That’s what I’m considering for my Cross… a poor man’s Vortex 4.5-22 LHT

 

[brazz04]

Besides the lemon factor of your particular Helios, how do you like the scope? That’s what I’m considering for my Cross… a poor man’s Vortex 4.5-22 LHT

I do really like it, I may look for something super light in the future and move this to more of a range rifle just due to weight though. I'm taking it to Colorado at the end of November for a last season mule deer hunt, so we will really see how it holds up to some hiking.

 

[tenringx]

Does anyone know if the tenon threads are the same between the Cross and the Fix? If they are the same, shouldn’t the Fix prefits work on these crosses? Really want to try a 20-22” 6cm on this platform.

 

[Wagonteeth]

I got a chance to shoot my Cross 6.5 this weekend. I bore sighted it to about 3" left and since I was on paper, I just left it after the first shot as I wanted to shoot the first 5 without messing with anything. The first 5 shot under 1/2". These were 123gr Federal American Eagle OTM. I then loaded 10 rounds of S&B 156gr soft points and repeated a 5 shot group and got right around 1/2", then I dialed the scope in to zero it. For the first 15 rounds with nothing special ammo, I am very happy.


ETA, I measured the groups using SPOTTR amd both are 0.38". Very nice.

 

[shooterpunk]

I got a chance to shoot my Cross 6.5 this weekend. I bore sighted it to about 3" left and since I was on paper, I just left it after the first shot as I wanted to shoot the first 5 without messing with anything. The first 5 shot under 1/2". These were 123gr Federal American Eagle OTM. I then loaded 10 rounds of S&B 153gr soft points and repeated a 5 shot group and got right around 1/2", then I dialed the scope in to zero it. For the first 15 rounds with nothing special ammo, I am very happy.

That’s great man. I shot three different loads through mine and one of them was 0.73” five shot group so I was pretty happy with that. I’m gonna try some more loads to get a little tighter, but I’m still a happy camper.

 

[GunBoxTherapy]

Here is the trigger module:

View attachment 7590196

View attachment 7590198
The adjustment screw at the front of the trigger guard adjusts general pull weight. There is a second adjustment screw, at the rear of the trigger blade. The tip of this screw (visible through the window directly above it, just to the rear of the trigger pivot) provides a secondary fulcrum between the trigger blade and sear "rocker" (not sure of the official name). When the trigger is pulled, these components eventually touch and the second stage begins.

If this screw is too far in, the transition to the second stage happens too soon and the second stage will be heavy and creepy. If it's too far out, there is no second stage at all, and the let-off is extremely light and vague. Better the former than the latter from the standpoint of safety for field purposes, IMO, but the adjustment is available.

Obviously, follow any and all appropriate procedures if one decides to mess with factory adjustments. If in doubt, leave it alone. Don't mess with systems that one does not fully understand.

I know this is an older reply to this post but I am currently stripping a customers Cross down for cerakote work.He wants the basics done: receiver, handguard and stock frame.

I’ve had success with everything thus far except for the receiver, well the removal of the trigger assembly. Seems to me like the only thing holding it in place at this point is the safety. Ive pushed the roll pins out and remove both levers. (I’m sure this could be accomplished with just the right side.) Now the selector does not want to come out in any direction. Doesn’t even go to want to budge from where it’s at. There is some slight play from left to right but that’s it. My assumption is that it will only come out one way.

Can you give me any pointers or can anyone else assist me in this?

I’ll be sure to post pics when the cerakote work is done for everyone to see!

 

[darrenk75b]

Had my Tooley-barreled 6cm out the last couple of weekends. The thing is a hoot to shoot. Very minimal recoil, and accuracy you'd expect from one of his barrels.

 

[Usmcsomerville]

View attachment 7723171

Had my Tooley-barreled 6cm out the last couple of weekends. The thing is a hoot to shoot. Very minimal recoil, and accuracy you'd expect from one of his barrels.

What profile is that barrel compared to the factory cross profile?

 

[RideWest]

I know this is an older reply to this post but I am currently stripping a customers Cross down for cerakote work.He wants the basics done: receiver, handguard and stock frame.

I’ve had success with everything thus far except for the receiver, well the removal of the trigger assembly. Seems to me like the only thing holding it in place at this point is the safety. Ive pushed the roll pins out and remove both levers. (I’m sure this could be accomplished with just the right side.) Now the selector does not want to come out in any direction. Doesn’t even go to want to budge from where it’s at. There is some slight play from left to right but that’s it. My assumption is that it will only come out one way.

Can you give me any pointers or can anyone else assist me in this?

I saved some instructions that were posted here. Don’t recall who posted them, so I can’t give credit. I have not tried to removed the assembly myself.

“Trigger Module Notes:
- Remove the grip.
- Remove the safety levers by driving out the roll pins (might be able to do this by pulling only the right-side one, but I removed both).
- Remove the screw at the rear of the module.
- Push out the cross pin at the front. Watch out for the detent ball! It's not under springpressure, but it is loose and will roll away.

Re-installing it is slightly trickier. Getting the front pin past the detent ball is the hard part; I had to use a small screwdriver to depress it from one side while sliding in the pin from the other. The safety takes a bit of careful manipulation to clear the trigger and seat it properly with its detent spring.”

 

[chutinlead]

I found out the hard way that the new 3rd MDT polymer mags that they came out with for their new HNT26 chassis don't work very well in the cross. They go up inside about 1/2" past being flush with the bottom and don't drop out freely. Instead I picked up another 5rd from SIG and a couple of the 10rd mags for when spring prairie dog pups come out

 

[darrenk75b]

What profile is that barrel compared to the factory cross profile?

I don't know precisely. It was one Dave had on hand when I ordered- a Kreiger in a contour slightly smaller than factory.

 

[Gtscotty]

I found out the hard way that the new 3rd MDT polymer mags that they came out with for their new HNT26 chassis don't work very well in the cross. They go up inside about 1/2" past being flush with the bottom and don't drop out freely. Instead I picked up another 5rd from SIG and a couple of the 10rd mags for when spring prairie dog pups come out

MDT 10 rd steel didn't work great in my Cross either, didn't want to feed the last round. I've been quite happy with the Sig modified Magpuls, so no big loss for me, but I was still surprised.

 

[chutinlead]

MDT 10 rd steel didn't work great in my Cross either, didn't want to feed the last round. I've been quite happy with the Sig modified Magpuls, so no big loss for me, but I was still surprised.

I wish they had worked with Magpul on a 3-4rd flush mag since it is aimed at the hunting crowd

 

[InTuneGP]

I wish they had worked with Magpul on a 3-4rd flush mag since it is aimed at the hunting crowd

To me the 5rd is close enough to flush, barely past the trigger guard, and even the 10rd is shorter than the pistol grip. How would it benefit a hunter for the magazine to be perfectly flush with the bottom of the mag well on a rifle like this? Serious question, I've been trying to figure out what part of my Cross is going to surprise me in a bad way on my upcoming mulie hunt but this one seems to be a non-issue.