You don't provide much input regarding price and other preferences. But, if you want the best accuracy/reliability/cost matrix, Savage is hard to beat for an out of the box shooter first bolt gun......broad model offerings. First bolt gun caliber would largely depend upon age, personal whim, experience, area of residence, what game pursued....furry/paper/steel, but 308Win or 30-06, maybe 243Win, are difficult to argue against for gun #1.Hope that I'm not kicking a dead mule, but, if you were getting your first bolt gun again, what would you get? Any other advice is also welcome.
To let you know, I am considering something out of the box to begin with, until I know what is what. I am enamored with the thought of a Bergara and its Spanish barrel, but I am also very impressed with the Daniel Defense Delta 5.
I am pretty much an AR guy right now, but just shooting sub-MOA is getting old, and so am I. I have one of my ARs set up for .224 Valkyrie. It shoots sub-MOA almost every 5 shot group at one hundred yards, with the occasional flinger.Thus far, I've only taken it out to 500 yards with the same results. So, I think that I'm better than just sub-MOA. I'm thinking under .5 MOA. In my younger days I could hit a silhouette target 10 out of 10 times with iron sights at 500 yards. Yes, I haven't done that in over 30 years, but I think that I still have the chops.
I hope that after this short spiel I have some excited members out there that are willing to share their advice.
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New to bolt guns.
- Thread starter Idon'tCareAtAll
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My original post is kind of bare. I know that there are quite a few comments, but, as the comments go on I start to learn more and more to the point that I provide a great deal more information.
Right now I'm leaning towards a custom gun based on the Remington 700 spec. in 6.5mm Creedmoor with a price tag of $2000 +/- a couple hundred.
The reasoning behind a custom gun is that I can try different components until I get as close to exactly what I want as possible.
I already know that I love shooting, it's just that even though my most accurate AR shoots very well for an AR, I want to make tighter groups and I want to go to 1000 yards and beyond. My .224 valkyrie is supposed to do that, and it is sub-MOA, but, I have never fired a bolt gun and I think that I would appreciate the increased accuracy and the ballistics of a higher caliber.
I appreciate any information that you can provide. Thank you.
OP
I think your on a good track. I recommended the AI/Tikka as out of the box options but the build is a great idea as well
As noted the 700 platform actions open a world of options for chassis/triggers. Many of which can be found in the px here. If you buy from the px it allows you to try about any chassis or stock out there and resell for the same you paid if you decide you want something else
Personally I like MDT chassis. ESS was my favorite. I prefer a chassis and with the blocks in them you don’t need to worry about bedding or bottom metal. Just torque and go. KRG like the bravo is the same
I think your on a good track. I recommended the AI/Tikka as out of the box options but the build is a great idea as well
As noted the 700 platform actions open a world of options for chassis/triggers. Many of which can be found in the px here. If you buy from the px it allows you to try about any chassis or stock out there and resell for the same you paid if you decide you want something else
Personally I like MDT chassis. ESS was my favorite. I prefer a chassis and with the blocks in them you don’t need to worry about bedding or bottom metal. Just torque and go. KRG like the bravo is the same
You sure you want a trigger that light? Being in your place a HIT would be a better option as you can go higher and then down as you need.
6.5 Creedmoor is a good choice. Get a 26" 8 twist barrel or even a 7.5 twist and you can have some fun. As I mentioned earlier you can easily change if you wanted to have more calibers on that same platform. That is why the easy shouldered prefit actions are great now. Screw barrels on and off like screwing in a nut and use the same scope, stock, action and trigger so no extra money going out.
GAP PPR. Done.
ETA- Didnt finish reading before posting. Badrock is a good option as is a origin build with a prefit and a KRG bravo. None of that will let you down.
But what do I know, I still shoot a 30hate.
ETA- Didnt finish reading before posting. Badrock is a good option as is a origin build with a prefit and a KRG bravo. None of that will let you down.
But what do I know, I still shoot a 30hate.
My first bolt gun was a Savage 10 FCP/SR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I shot it right out of the box with a Vortex Crossfire 6-24X50 scope and an Atlas BT10 Bipod. 100 yard consistent MOA was sub MOA - about .75 MOA with factory Hornady 147 gr. ELD Match ammunition. Never missed a lick , no FTF, no FTE...the damn thing just rocked right out the box.
Everything in the pix the gun is like $800 and it shot sub MOA in the hands of an absolute dip shit/dumbass Newbie to 600 yards. My Nephew fresh out of the Marines shot this gun better than his Super Duper Custom with the same ammunition and the same range. His $3K+ Custom was way slicker, smoother and fast but it was not as accurate consistently in his hands.
Then I kept adding stuff like an MDT LSS-XL Gen2 chassis, weights, an XLR butt stock, and numerous other goodies and the gun is now a .5 MOA gun out to 600 yards . Everyone tells me I'll never recover the cost of this rifle if I ever decide to upgrade but I already have a short list of people who will buy it for more than I have in it if I ever let it go. Which I will not. Ever.
I'm not suggesting you buy a Savage *but* I am suggesting that if yer maybe not certain that a Bolt Gun is gonna be yer forte' that you might not want to spend $3K+ getting started and maybe buy something that can be upgraded while shooting sub MOA right out of the box like I did. If I had to do it again I'd do it exactly like I first did it. Retired now and if the stock market recovers I'll have me a Savage in .338 Lapua mag and do the same thing with it. I'm kinda fond of Savages for what I do. YMMV.
VooDoo
Everything in the pix the gun is like $800 and it shot sub MOA in the hands of an absolute dip shit/dumbass Newbie to 600 yards. My Nephew fresh out of the Marines shot this gun better than his Super Duper Custom with the same ammunition and the same range. His $3K+ Custom was way slicker, smoother and fast but it was not as accurate consistently in his hands.
Then I kept adding stuff like an MDT LSS-XL Gen2 chassis, weights, an XLR butt stock, and numerous other goodies and the gun is now a .5 MOA gun out to 600 yards . Everyone tells me I'll never recover the cost of this rifle if I ever decide to upgrade but I already have a short list of people who will buy it for more than I have in it if I ever let it go. Which I will not. Ever.
I'm not suggesting you buy a Savage *but* I am suggesting that if yer maybe not certain that a Bolt Gun is gonna be yer forte' that you might not want to spend $3K+ getting started and maybe buy something that can be upgraded while shooting sub MOA right out of the box like I did. If I had to do it again I'd do it exactly like I first did it. Retired now and if the stock market recovers I'll have me a Savage in .338 Lapua mag and do the same thing with it. I'm kinda fond of Savages for what I do. YMMV.
VooDoo
The capability of factory or easily assembled 'customs' in 2022 is ridiculous. You can buy a Tikka for $800 and shoot 1/3 MOA groups with factory match ammo. You can buy a "custom" Origin, which at this point is a total misnomer of a name of what to call it - it's a production action - and build a super refined rifle with whatever stock or chassis you like best. You can slap everything from a carbon Proof prefit to a takeoff dirt cheap Savage barrel into it. The rulebook of precision rifles has been chucked out the door in the last couple of years. It's hard to choose a wrong option if you do some looking, just a slew of right options with different perks.
My TT Special 2-Stg was 20% off on last year’s BF, came down from $240 to $192 before tax and shipping.
If there are better deals out there, I wanna know about it for the next one lol
If there are better deals out there, I wanna know about it for the next one lol
I would strongly suggest a long action.
Even if you want to shoot 6.5 manbun or 308, it's easily doable (military snipers used a 308 in a long action for years).
But if in the future you want something bigger and badder, it's a barrel swap away.
Even if you want to shoot 6.5 manbun or 308, it's easily doable (military snipers used a 308 in a long action for years).
But if in the future you want something bigger and badder, it's a barrel swap away.
Terrible idea. No reason to deal with feeding issues and mags for long action to accommodate short actions because you might in the future get a long action. With the Origin he can run short magnums if he needed more than a standard short action but at this point he is not stating he does.
The kind of accuracy you seek is gong to cost some coin $$$. Out of the box is not going to cut it. You will also need to know a thing or two about reloading.Hope that I'm not kicking a dead mule, but, if you were getting your first bolt gun again, what would you get? Any other advice is also welcome.
To let you know, I am considering something out of the box to begin with, until I know what is what. I am enamored with the thought of a Bergara and its Spanish barrel, but I am also very impressed with the Daniel Defense Delta 5.
I am pretty much an AR guy right now, but just shooting sub-MOA is getting old, and so am I. I have one of my ARs set up for .224 Valkyrie. It shoots sub-MOA almost every 5 shot group at one hundred yards, with the occasional flinger.
I hope that after this short spiel I have some excited members out there that are willing to share their advice.
Take a look at Impact Precision. I would look at the 6mm Dasher or 6mm Creedmoor for competition. Get a bigger caliber for tactical applications. I tried the MPA stocks but it felt cheap and rattly compared to the Foundation.
Here is my PRS Gun:
I you are buying out of box. BERGARA PREMIER PRO 6.5PRC.Hope that I'm not kicking a dead mule, but, if you were getting your first bolt gun again, what would you get? Any other advice is also welcome.
To let you know, I am considering something out of the box to begin with, until I know what is what. I am enamored with the thought of a Bergara and its Spanish barrel, but I am also very impressed with the Daniel Defense Delta 5.
I am pretty much an AR guy right now, but just shooting sub-MOA is getting old, and so am I. I have one of my ARs set up for .224 Valkyrie. It shoots sub-MOA almost every 5 shot group at one hundred yards, with the occasional flinger.
I hope that after this short spiel I have some excited members out there that are willing to share their advice.
IF YOU ARE BUILDING A CUSTOM WHICH IS MY SUGGESTION .
THE 6 5 Creedmoor is by far the most Popular cartridge going.I do t care what store or what gun maker you choose,grab a rifle off the shelf and 95 % will be a 6.5 CM.
I'm building a 6mm ARC bolt rifle .The 6AR shoots good And it cycles great in my AR15 too.
I'm in the p rocess of gather parts fir me a 6mm SLR..POWDER AND COMPONENTS ARE SO HIGH AND SCARCE I JUST WANT TO DOWNSIZE FOR A WHILE.YOU MAY CONSIDER THAT.
BUT IF YOU H AVE THE JACK YOU MAY WABT TO BUY THE BEST AND HET AN ACCURACY INTERNATIONAL
If you read the original post you'll see that I am rather taken by the Bergara. I hear so much about their accuracy. I also hear good things about the Tikka. The only thing about the Bergara is that I have read on several posts that they are not exactly a Remington 700 clone and changing stocks is sometimes troublesome. I'm not sure about barrel swaps, triggers, etc. I have also come to understand that the Tikka doesn't have the same quantity of aftermarket goodies as a rifle with Remington 700 specifications.
I have decided to go with a custom build. I know that there are occasionally some problems that you can run into, but, I'm the cheapskate that bought a $120 drill press and completed two 80% AR lowers. Not that I plan on going cheap, I just am not going to worry if I have to do some minor filing, sanding, or whatever else comes up.
As far as the Accuracy International, do any of their complete rifles come in 6.5mm Creedmoor?
OK, I found them at Mile High Shooting.
I have to say, "Ouch". I don't think that I'm quite ready to drop over $4k on a rifle, yet... yet.
It stings for just a bit,
Then you buy an AXMC,
That stings a bit more,
You quickly get over it though
I am sold on the idea of building a custom rifle. My first AR was a Colt M-4. The only way you can tell it is even a Colt now is to look at the brand on the lower. My other AR's are completely custom.
I'm going to start out with the parts on my previous list except I'm going to use a Mack Bros. EVO Stainless Steel Action and a 26" Criterion Rem/Age barrel. I'm not decided on the stock. Right now I'm torn between the KRG Bravo and X-ray stocks. Once I get behind a rifle or two that may change.
I am thoroughly impressed by the response my original post generated. It has been an education for me. I am also humbled by the fact that so many have taken the time to contribute. I have also received several messages off board. All the posts and messages are a testament to the high caliber of individuals this forum attracts.
Please, if you still have something to say, don't hesitate.
Thank you very much.
I'm going to start out with the parts on my previous list except I'm going to use a Mack Bros. EVO Stainless Steel Action and a 26" Criterion Rem/Age barrel. I'm not decided on the stock. Right now I'm torn between the KRG Bravo and X-ray stocks. Once I get behind a rifle or two that may change.
I am thoroughly impressed by the response my original post generated. It has been an education for me. I am also humbled by the fact that so many have taken the time to contribute. I have also received several messages off board. All the posts and messages are a testament to the high caliber of individuals this forum attracts.
Please, if you still have something to say, don't hesitate.
Thank you very much.
Watch the McBros. Last I saw you can not get shouldered prefit barrels and you can’t change the bolt head. Unless you really need to save the difference between it and the Origin you will do better long term with the origin.
If you don't get a chance to get behind a few rifles, out of your two choices, you can choose whichever one your budget allows . KRG has a Bravo rear stock conversion or X-ray rear stock conversion if you decide to change it later. (Converting a Bravo to X-ray also requires Grip panels and I think it's slightly cheaper to convert from X-ray to Bravo than the other way around)
The barrel I'm looking at is prefit and has a barrel nut. That's the Rem/Age Criterion. I know that Criterion makes a pretty good AR barrel, how does it compare to the Proof Research Bighorn Origin Stainless Steel Barrel? The Rem/Age is only $109 less than the Proof Research barrel. Or am I looking in the wrong direction?
The information on the Origin Action is good to know. $225, when you're talking $2k, isn't that much, especially if you're talking a pretty good increase in quality and it having a bolt head that can be changed to a different caliber down the road. For that matter, neither is the $109, if the two barrels are that much different in quality.
How much different is the feel of the X-ray compared to a chassis?
BTW, there's a Gun Club less than 20 minutes from my home. They have some type of match there every Saturday. Husbandly duties prevent me from going today, but I will definitely be there next weekend. Look here for a report.
The information on the Origin Action is good to know. $225, when you're talking $2k, isn't that much, especially if you're talking a pretty good increase in quality and it having a bolt head that can be changed to a different caliber down the road. For that matter, neither is the $109, if the two barrels are that much different in quality.
How much different is the feel of the X-ray compared to a chassis?
BTW, there's a Gun Club less than 20 minutes from my home. They have some type of match there every Saturday. Husbandly duties prevent me from going today, but I will definitely be there next weekend. Look here for a report.
Don’t confuse barrel nut prefit and shouldered prefit. With the barrel nut you have to get go/no go gauges and set headspace. Not hard but not as easy as just screwing in a barrel to an action like a nut into a bolt. Your money but I wouldn’t skimp at this point.
Buy a Tikka T3X CTR.
www.tikka.fi
Easy to update, like KRG Bravo CTR chassis, or even a Whiskey, but you need to toss that CTR mag, and go with AICS.
I love these, never liked the CTR mags.
I bet my ass off, there is not anything like the Tikka action on the price point you are bying.
Just look if you dont believe.
CTR has same teflon coated bolt as is it on TAC A1.
Tikka T3x - The ultimate tool for accuracy
Tikka T3x rifles are built with long-standing gunsmith expertise based on tradition and innovation, allowing you to choose between different models for the given hunting or training purpose.
www.tikka.fi
I love these, never liked the CTR mags.
I bet my ass off, there is not anything like the Tikka action on the price point you are bying.
Just look if you dont believe.
CTR has same teflon coated bolt as is it on TAC A1.
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Agreed. I don't like the idea of the joint floating on the threads. I know it's been done with success in several ways. Just doesn't seem as rock solid as a shouldered option. Of course @308pirate or someone may come in here and show it's equally as stable. However, it is an additional moving part.
Rob01 also pointed out the advantages of a shouldered prefit barrel and it makes perfect sense.
Now, I've thrown a monkey into my own wrench. I've been studying the difference in a stock like a KRG Bravo and a chassis like the MDT LSS-XL. I think that I would appreciate the chassis because it uses AR grips and I can get the model that uses an AR carbine buffer tube and stock. Oh wait, there's a spare buffer tube and stock sitting right there in my shop.
I know that the chassis is $180 more, but as my last post pointed out, $180 isn't that much when you are already spending about $2k or more.
If you're considering MDT products and are on a budget, they are very very generous with their Black Friday sales. If you're into the buffer tube and AR grip compatibility with chassis, another one to consider is https://xlrindustries.com/
Buy once, cry once.
In the past, I played mental acrobatics to justify lesser or more convenient purchases. All those (firearms and others) get sold or given away in short order. Everything that I research, sleep on it, and pony up I have kept and will likely keep until it is beyond serviceable.
I did this with 2 origins until I could upgrade to better chassis. I had three bravos at once but since upgrading I still have one bravo I don’t ever plan on selling.
Just trying to make sure that all my i's dotted and all my t's are crossed. I am making a tool list to go with all the rifle parts.
To attach the Proof Research Bighorn Origin barrel to the Zermatt Arms Origin Action I have a Zermatt Arms Action Wrench and a Viper Barrel Vise. Are these the appropriate tools? I already have a torque wrench.
Do I need to worry about checking the headspace on a prefit shouldered barrel like the one specified? If so, what tools are necessary to disassemble the bolt and remove the extractor and ejector? Does the bolt head really just twist off on the Origin Action?
To attach the Proof Research Bighorn Origin barrel to the Zermatt Arms Origin Action I have a Zermatt Arms Action Wrench and a Viper Barrel Vise. Are these the appropriate tools? I already have a torque wrench.
Do I need to worry about checking the headspace on a prefit shouldered barrel like the one specified? If so, what tools are necessary to disassemble the bolt and remove the extractor and ejector? Does the bolt head really just twist off on the Origin Action?
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That's it for tools. Make sure the torque wrench goes up to at least 100 ft-lbs, not in-lbs, and generally they work best if you're not right up against the min or max torque spec for the wrench.
You should check headspace the first time you mount it up, but shouldn't be necessary after that. You can use go/no-go gauges or a new piece of brass and some scotch tape, there are discussions elsewhere on how to do this. I prefer the mental security blanket of machined gauges, myself; you can rent them from a few different places, I had success with 4DRentals.com, or buy them from various places. They'll run you about $60-70 for a pair in the most common chambers.
No tools to disassemble the bolt, you can see how to do it in this video, around 2:15 (just twist the bolt shroud clockwise when viewed from the rear until it pops out): www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaqRgN-f2rY
You don't want to remove the extractor when checking headspace, it's best to have it on there to extract the gauge after you chamber it. I believe the Origin has a mechanical ejector, so you don't need to remove it either. Even if it was a plunger-style ejector (a la Rem700), you don't need to remove it to check headspace with gauges; you WOULD want to remove it if you were using the "free bolt drop" method to find the lands, but again, shouldn't be necessary with the Origin. The bolt head doesn't twist off, it slides right out when you remove the firing pin then the big silver cross-pin that's through the bolt body just behind the bolt head. You can see the easy-peasy process in that same video.
Actuion wrench, barrel vise and torque wrench are what you need. You don't need to torque the barrel to 100+ foot pounds. I usually go to about 60-70 foot pounds but there is a very well know smith/company here who doesn't even use one. They use a T handle wrench and go in until there is a touch then back off and slam it tight. He told me that once metal meets metal it's tight and won't compress. BR guys hand tighten them. So don't stress the amount of torque. Just make sure it's tight.
The go/no go gauges are personal choice. I trust the smith that does my prefits and don't check them but if you didn't they aren't a bad idea to check. Most companies go to minimum spec so shouldn't be too large but you never know.
And as mentioned the bolt comes apart easily but it's the firing pin that comes out and not the bolt head. Bolt head has the pin. You shouldn't need to do anything to the bolt to use the gauges.
The go/no go gauges are personal choice. I trust the smith that does my prefits and don't check them but if you didn't they aren't a bad idea to check. Most companies go to minimum spec so shouldn't be too large but you never know.
And as mentioned the bolt comes apart easily but it's the firing pin that comes out and not the bolt head. Bolt head has the pin. You shouldn't need to do anything to the bolt to use the gauges.
FNA skippy. Y'all are what I call smart youguns.
If I have a complete list and have done my math correctly, I'm at about $2776, plus tax and shipping, for rifle and tools. Not too bad.
I'm going to check the local gun shops to see what they have on the shelf and I'm going to check the PX here before I order anything online. I will wait until I have had a chance to put a few rifles to my shoulder before I decide on a chassis or stock. That'll be Saturday.
If I have a complete list and have done my math correctly, I'm at about $2776, plus tax and shipping, for rifle and tools. Not too bad.
I'm going to check the local gun shops to see what they have on the shelf and I'm going to check the PX here before I order anything online. I will wait until I have had a chance to put a few rifles to my shoulder before I decide on a chassis or stock. That'll be Saturday.
For those not aware, I read up on the Timney Remington 700 Benchrest Trigger and it doesn't have a safety or bolt catch features. The Origin Action doesn't mention anything about a safety or bolt catch. Is this something built into the action or is it possibly built into the chassis?
Pardon the newbieness of the question, but I can't find that type of information on anything I've. I just have to have the safety. Not really sure what the bolt lock is.
Pardon the newbieness of the question, but I can't find that type of information on anything I've. I just have to have the safety. Not really sure what the bolt lock is.
The bolt stop (or "bolt catch") you refer to is the original Rem700 design, where the trigger group has a little steel piece on the left side that has a tab down in the trigger guard area; you press up on that tab, which slides the bolt stop up and lets the bolt pull backwards all the way out of the action. Here's a pic of an example from TriggerTech:
As opposed to a trigger group that doesn't have it:
The Origin has the bolt stop integrated into the action, it's on the left side. Most modern R700 clones have gone this route. It's this little button circled in red:
The safety is part of the trigger group in the R700 platform, so a TriggerTech Primary or Special will have what you need. Get one without the bolt stop, or if you get one with the bolt stop, it's easy to remove, you just unscrew the one screw and pop the little e-clip off, then it comes off and you reinstall the screw and clip. Some other platforms integrate the safety into some other portion of the receiver system, but with R700-style receivers it's part of the trigger group.
A bolt lock is usually part of a 3-position safety:
- One position is the fire position, the gun will go bang and the bolt will run
- Another position is a safe position but the bolt will run, so the trigger won't make the gun go bang but you can still extract a chambered round
- The third position is the "bolt lock" position, where the trigger won't go bang and the bolt won't move (can't even lift the bolt handle)
I'm not aware of any R700 clones that have a 3-position safety that includes a bolt lock, but for example, the Howa 1500 platform does feature this style of safety.
As opposed to a trigger group that doesn't have it:
The Origin has the bolt stop integrated into the action, it's on the left side. Most modern R700 clones have gone this route. It's this little button circled in red:
The safety is part of the trigger group in the R700 platform, so a TriggerTech Primary or Special will have what you need. Get one without the bolt stop, or if you get one with the bolt stop, it's easy to remove, you just unscrew the one screw and pop the little e-clip off, then it comes off and you reinstall the screw and clip. Some other platforms integrate the safety into some other portion of the receiver system, but with R700-style receivers it's part of the trigger group.
A bolt lock is usually part of a 3-position safety:
- One position is the fire position, the gun will go bang and the bolt will run
- Another position is a safe position but the bolt will run, so the trigger won't make the gun go bang but you can still extract a chambered round
- The third position is the "bolt lock" position, where the trigger won't go bang and the bolt won't move (can't even lift the bolt handle)
I'm not aware of any R700 clones that have a 3-position safety that includes a bolt lock, but for example, the Howa 1500 platform does feature this style of safety.
Thank you. I may go with the Timney Elite Hunter. There are so many to choose from. I know that an AR milspec trigger is about 8.5 lbs. pull. I have a Hiperfire Elite that has about 3.5 to 4 lbs., not exactly sure. I really like it, but I am comparing it to milspec and Ruger 10/22 's. I really hope to get to fire some bolt guns this weekend. That would go a long way in helping me firm up a few of my decisions.
You have been extremely helpful. I appreciate it.
Oh yeah, I always call people youguns, even when I know they are older than me. I am in my 60s though.
You have been extremely helpful. I appreciate it.
Oh yeah, I always call people youguns, even when I know they are older than me. I am in my 60s though.
8.5 lbs is a shotgun trigger haha, get it below 5 at least. 3.5-4 lbs is a popular do-all pull weight, acceptable for competition and fine for hunting with gloves. I like 2-stage triggers myself, but that’s personal preference.
You’re off to a solid start!
You’re off to a solid start!
The elite hunter isn’t bad. Adjusts down to 1.5 pounds which is good. There are people shooting PRS matches with 6 ounce triggers. Mine are near the 1.5 mark. You have a wide range in the elite hunter to work where you are comfortable.
And I am a little younger than you but my body doesn’t feel young anymore. Lol
And I am a little younger than you but my body doesn’t feel young anymore. Lol
They say that being in the military ages a body 20 years. I spent 14 years. I feel about 100.
Hey @KnowNothing256, for someone with the handle KnowNothing you seem to know your stuff. And don't get me started on @Rob01. Actually, I've been impressed by all the contributors.
As far as triggers go, my 224 valkyrie has that Hiperfire Elite Trigger that is, according to the website, set at about 3.5 lbs. It is definitely lighter than my Hiperfire Designated Marksman Triggers. I feel like that is one of the contributing factors to my being able to shoot much tighter groups with my 224 than my other AR's. Oh yeah, can you tell I like Hiperfire Triggers? I also think that the barrel plays a big part in the accuracy of the 224.
Anyway, I think that I will start with the Elite Hunter Trigger. It will give me a chance to figure out what weight trigger that I like, then I can move to other triggers and concern myself with travel, take-up, break, reset, and the like.
Hey @KnowNothing256, for someone with the handle KnowNothing you seem to know your stuff. And don't get me started on @Rob01. Actually, I've been impressed by all the contributors.
As far as triggers go, my 224 valkyrie has that Hiperfire Elite Trigger that is, according to the website, set at about 3.5 lbs. It is definitely lighter than my Hiperfire Designated Marksman Triggers. I feel like that is one of the contributing factors to my being able to shoot much tighter groups with my 224 than my other AR's. Oh yeah, can you tell I like Hiperfire Triggers? I also think that the barrel plays a big part in the accuracy of the 224.
Anyway, I think that I will start with the Elite Hunter Trigger. It will give me a chance to figure out what weight trigger that I like, then I can move to other triggers and concern myself with travel, take-up, break, reset, and the like.
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Yup only 4 years as USMC Infantry and still feel it. Then 23 years as a career firefighter doesn;t help.
Bolt gun triggers are different than ARs. Unless you have a two stage there is no take up, and no reset you will feel as you will be working the bolt. Break is what is the concern and why I like single stage triggers as when I put my finger on the trigger and press it I don't want take up but I want to know it will go off with that light pressure. Triggers are easily changed so start with the Elite Hunter and then you can go from there if you find you want something else.
