New to reloading, have some questions...

[Peepaw]

OK guys, Ive finally decided to start reloading. Up to this point, I thought the equipment involved in reloading was expensive. Once I found out that it wasnt that bad (in fact, it appears to be downright CHEAP), I decided to give it a go.

Questions:

A fellow hide member has pointed me in teh direction of the RCBS Rock Chucker kit, kind of as a "starter up kit" for pretty cheap (Midway has it listed for @ $320)

Say I picked up this kit, what else would I need, if anything at all?

I definitely want to reload for my .308, but my .223 APPEARS to be not worth it??? I looked at brass, and with bullets, and for what you can pick .223 ammo up for, almost seems like I would spend MORE on reloading????

And, since Im not going for accuracy (well, not real concerned with sub MOA out of it....it's my AR, and is used for 100 yards and under)
I can pick up a box of 20, 55 grain Win FMJ for a little over $8 (was a little over $9, but price actually DROPPED)

So, not sure I can beat that.....

So, was wanting to reload for the .308, and Im in process of building a 7MM Rem Mag.
I also have a 1911 .45...but not sure about that...any suggestions/opinions?



Any sugesstions on manufactures of equipmet? Sponsors? Etc...

Thanks guys.

 

[Clark]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

I got the RCBS rockchucker reloading kit when I started reloading in 1999.

1) Rockchucker press .. don't use it anymore, I now use Forster Co-ax press
2) "Speer 12" reloading manual... loads in it are a joke, I find my start load with Quickload software.
3) Bottle of glycerin for lube... don't use it any more, now use Redding imperial die wax.
4) Pad for applying glycerin... don't use it, I use my fingers.
5) Brush for lubing inside of case neck.. don't use it any more, I remove the expander ball so I don't need inside lube.
6) Loading tray made of plastic... don't use it. I seat bullets as soon as I charge the case, with a second press.
7) Wire brush for cleaning primer pockets. Don't use it.
8) 5-0-5 scale [Ohaus OEM]... I still use it.
9) Uniflow powder measure.... I still use it.
10) Inside outside neck chamfer [ Wilson OEM] I still use it.
11) case trimmer, don't use it anymore. I now use a Forster case trimmer or RCBS 3 way in the vertical mill
12) Funnel, don't use it, I use a Frankfort Arsenal or MTM funnel.

Other stuff I use not cross referenced to the kit:
1) Wilson Case gauge
2) Sinclair concentricity gauge
3) Lyman Moly coating kit, but with steel BBs and magnetic separation
4) Vibrators, ultra sound, and stainless steel media in a tumbler for cleaning
5) Forster and Lee priming tools
6) Lee Collet neck dies polished in my lathe.
7) Forster FL dies with necks honed out in Forster's Hardinge lathes.
8) Forster seating dies with seater stem polished on my lathe
9) Dial calipers
10) Enco set of pin gauges .0610" to .2500"
11) Enco set of pin gauges .2510" - .5000"
12) Optivisor magnifier headset
13) Dillon Super Swage 600 military crimp remover
14) Lux lamp magnifier
15) Bullets, brass, primers, and powder
16) Berry's bullets plastic ammo boxes
17) 3M Post-its for labeling.
18) Forster headspace go-gauge

 

[The Mechanic]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

That is a pretty dang good list right there.

 

[KeeblerArmy]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK guys, Ive finally decided to start reloading. Up to this point, I thought the equipment involved in reloading was expensive. Once I found out that it wasnt that bad (in fact, it appears to be downright CHEAP), I decided to give it a go.

Questions:

A fellow hide member has pointed me in teh direction of the RCBS Rock Chucker kit, kind of as a "starter up kit" for pretty cheap (Midway has it listed for @ $320)

Say I picked up this kit, what else would I need, if anything at all?

I definitely want to reload for my .308, but my .223 APPEARS to be not worth it??? I looked at brass, and with bullets, and for what you can pick .223 ammo up for, almost seems like I would spend MORE on reloading????

And, since Im not going for accuracy (well, not real concerned with sub MOA out of it....it's my AR, and is used for 100 yards and under)
I can pick up a box of 20, 55 grain Win FMJ for a little over $8 (was a little over $9, but price actually DROPPED)

So, not sure I can beat that.....

So, was wanting to reload for the .308, and Im in process of building a 7MM Rem Mag.
I also have a 1911 .45...but not sure about that...any suggestions/opinions?



Any sugesstions on manufactures of equipmet? Sponsors? Etc...

Thanks guys.


</div></div>

Don't forget to factor the hours off your life into the equation. I'm still a newb to reloading and my intention was to try to get something close to match grade cheaper. That's for .308 at least.

Personally, reloading pistol or AR rounds just isn't worth the time involved. They get shot up too fast. YMMV

 

[vman]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

Its worth doing as it is a great hobby itself.

The RCBS kit is good enough to start with. Certainly if you take the hobby more seriously you may eventually upgrading everything.

I have the RCBS Rockchucker kit and the only thing i still use from it is the press and the chamfering tool!

If i had the cash for the following up front i would just buy that... but this is me, your view may be different to mine

Essential
- Forster Co-Ax press
- Forster .308win Ultra die set (FL sizer and Ultra seater)
- RCBS Chargemaster
- Saturn .30cal Funnel
- Imperial sizing wax
- Digital Caliper
- VLD Chamfering tool

Get these eventually
- CNC Machined loading blocks from Tom in Chicago
- Hornady comparitor body and guage inserts
- Hornady OAL tool
- LE Wilson Case trimmer
- LE Wilson fire case .308 holder

Not needed but get them down the track if your really into it
- Propane Torch for annealing
- Sinclair concentricity guage

Thats my list of how I would do it, if i were starting up but with my knowledge that I now have. Yea, might be more expensive than a kit but I wont end up buying more stuff later down the track and having a collection of stuff I dont use any more.

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

OK guys, I appreicate the info/feedback


To poster with the long list (cant see your name right now)

You said you bought the kit in 1999, and then listed stuff that you no longer use. Well, did you EVER use it? And later on, just upgraded/and or changed your ways is why you no longer use?


Guess what Im asking is, obviously a rookie when it comes to this, and needing something to get me started, and dont want to spend any more than I have to, for the simple fact, I may NOT either A)like it or B)find the time to do it.
So, if I spend alot of money on something that doesnt get used, then Im gonna be pissed. Would rather spend the least amount as possible (and still be "good" equipment) and get my feet wet, and give it a go and see what I think about it. So, is th ekit I mentioned going to be one that can get me started and do teh job I need it to?

Kind of like when I got into guns. I didnt want to go out and spend, $2K to $3K, or more on a rifle and $1500 (or more) on a scope, on something that ended up sitting in a closet and selling off a year later because I got tired of it because I never shot it.
So, I bought a Rem 700 SPS, then a "budget" scope, Vortex, and have enjoyed the hell out of it, and right now in process of building a 7MM Rem Mag and topping it off with a NF.

Or, my AR...bought my first one here recently, and spent as little as possible on it (Del-Ton kit), JUST so I could see if I was gonna enjoy teh AR, which Im in the process of right now. So, if I do, then Im gonna "step up" in quality, and build my own..piece it together.


And, of course, same goes for my 1911..same thing. I bought a "budget" 1911 (SA Mil Spec) to see how I would like it. And eventually, now that I have found out I LOVE the 1911, gonna do a custom. Im gonna do the build on this one when my son gets older, with him, and then give it to him.

What Im saying is, I normally try and start out at entry level, see if I like, and if I do, THEN I go full in. I DONT see myself as having to buy 2 guns to get to a "real" one, because it ends up being nice to have 2 of the "same"..one, your budget one, that you dont have to worry about getting scratched up/dinged up, etc, take anywhere/anytime to have fun with.
Then, you have your "step up" one, the one that you REALLY want, and is the "coup de grace".
Well, it's not the end, but you get my point..

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KeeblerArmy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't forget to factor the hours off your life into the equation. I'm still a newb to reloading and my intention was to try to get something close to match grade cheaper. That's for .308 at least.

<span style="font-style: italic"><span style="color: #FF0000">Personally, reloading pistol or AR rounds just isn't worth the time involved. They get shot up too fast. YMMV </span></span></div></div>


That was what I was thinking as well. And since my current AR and 1911 are just for that...to burn up ammo, no need in doing a handload to get most out of it. As long as it shoots and it does its damage, that is all I am worried about with those.

The .308 and my 7MM Im doing, however, would be nice to do something for those....

Time...THAT is what Im thinking Im actually gonna have for once. Im a car guy by nature, and I build Hot Rods/Race cars out of my shop. But, that's just it...my cars are all up at my shop, so I dont get to spend as much time messing with them. I cant just hop out into my garage and do it...shop is 20 minute drive...so, 2 kids, wife...hard to do.

Handloading...well, I CAN set it up in my garage, and just pop out there from time to time.
Was told, to do @ 30 rounds, on average, takes @ 90 minutes...sometimes more, sometimes less...depending on equipment and how long youve been at it.

Anyone care to add how long it takes you to do say, 20, 30, 50 or whatever rounds?

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its worth doing as it is a great hobby itself.

The RCBS kit is good enough to start with. Certainly if you take the hobby more seriously you may eventually upgrading everything.

I have the RCBS Rockchucker kit and the only thing i still use from it is the press and the chamfering tool!

If i had the cash for the following up front i would just buy that... but this is me, your view may be different to mine

Essential
- Forster Co-Ax press
- Forster .308win Ultra die set (FL sizer and Ultra seater)
- RCBS Chargemaster
- Saturn .30cal Funnel
- Imperial sizing wax
- Digital Caliper
- VLD Chamfering tool

Get these eventually
- CNC Machined loading blocks from Tom in Chicago
- Hornady comparitor body and guage inserts
- Hornady OAL tool
- LE Wilson Case trimmer
- LE Wilson fire case .308 holder

Not needed but get them down the track if your really into it
- Propane Torch for annealing
- Sinclair concentricity guage

Thats my list of how I would do it, if i were starting up but with my knowledge that I now have. Yea, might be more expensive than a kit but I wont end up buying more stuff later down the track and having a collection of stuff I dont use any more. </div></div>


OK, well,that is what Im gonna do then...just pick up teh kit, and give it a go. Will work it over for a couple/few months, see what I see. I like "building" stuff, and working with my hands, so Im PROBALY gonna enjoy it. If I knew I would, sure, would just go ahead and jump in and buy some better equipment. But, as I mentioned above, I wanna make sure I like before I do that.


Thanks for input and list of items.



I do have a propane torch.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

I can run 300+ rounds @ hr. of HG ammo on my D550 all day every day.(BTW,I'm 60 yo)
Match rifle(308)about 100 @ hr. little less loading bp in .45-70 and .45-90.
It's ALL in your prep.
Cheers,
LG

 

[samnev]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK guys, Ive finally decided to start reloading. Up to this point, I thought the equipment involved in reloading was expensive. Once I found out that it wasnt that bad (in fact, it appears to be downright CHEAP), I decided to give it a go.

Questions:

A fellow hide member has pointed me in teh direction of the RCBS Rock Chucker kit, kind of as a "starter up kit" for pretty cheap (Midway has it listed for @ $320)

Say I picked up this kit, what else would I need, if anything at all?

I definitely want to reload for my .308, but my .223 APPEARS to be not worth it??? I looked at brass, and with bullets, and for what you can pick .223 ammo up for, almost seems like I would spend MORE on reloading????

And, since Im not going for accuracy (well, not real concerned with sub MOA out of it....it's my AR, and is used for 100 yards and under)
I can pick up a box of 20, 55 grain Win FMJ for a little over $8 (was a little over $9, but price actually DROPPED)

So, not sure I can beat that.....

So, was wanting to reload for the .308, and Im in process of building a 7MM Rem Mag.
I also have a 1911 .45...but not sure about that...any suggestions/opinions?



Any sugesstions on manufactures of equipmet? Sponsors? Etc...

Thanks guys.


</div></div>
Using once fired Lake City brass which I can get for 5 cents, some times less and there is always lots free range pick ups I can reload 55 grain 223/5.56x45 using surplus 55 grain FMJ for 10-15 cents or less if using pick up brass, a round depeding on how much projos cost with shipping. @ $8 a box of 20 that's 40 cents a round. Even when I load Sierra SMK's it's less than 25-30 cents a round depending on the SMK I am using. So I believe ther is savings to be had reloading 223/5.56x45.

 

[Gondy223]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

I have the same single stage set up, and if it didn't come with a digital scale, get one. They help a bunch, a good case trimmer and a trim mate should be on the "things to get list" also. I agree with Clark on the speer book, a joke. Use these items with your current set up, until you are reloading too much for this set up, then upgrade. Hope this helps.

 

[TAC06]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

+1 with what Gondy223 said.

Get yourself a copy of the Seirra reloading manual for a start on your reloading library. I like the Hornady manual for some stuff too but thats me.

Case prep station is a good suggestion too. I been pineing for the Hornandy case prep center for awhile and it case trims too. Never used on but it has to work a little better than RCBS's. Lyman has a new one out now too.

You can shop around for a case cleaner and media seperator. I have the Dillon 1200 Large vibrator cleaner and separator but there are others out there that should work as well and is smaller than mine. My Dillon 1200 Vibrator is huge and takes up alot of counter space and the separator is not fully enclosed so the dust goes all over so I had to use it outside on a folding table and separate outside too. Less of a lead hazzard that way. I do large batches of brass at a time s it is faster for me but a few hundred rounds of .308 can be done in a smaller case cleaner.

And don't leave your brass at the range when it comes too .223 and .45. Pick it up and save it back. Keep your eye out for bulet sales and you can get bullets for 6-9 cents a bullet for 55 grain .223 and .45 diameter bullets can vary if shooting lead or copper jacketed bullets. And pistol ammo for plinking you don't have to load full house loads, you can down load the powder charges and use a few grains Unique powder or Clays powder to shoot out a .45.

say:
.10 cent lead pistol bullet
4.1 grain powder charge for a given load, 7000 grains to a pound of powder comes to 1707 charges of powder. For giggles say that pound of powder cost $22.00 dollars. my calculator says .01 cent a charge of powder
once fired .45 ACP range brass free
total should be .11 cents a round

And if you shoot a reduced powder load pistol round it shoots the same at close ranges and doesn't stress the brass that much. You could shoot and reload that same .45 brass for several times over till it wears out.

Or if you still don't want to reload all that .223 and .45 acp brass then save it back and trade it to a reloader for something you want or sell it. Its worth something to someone. Especially the .45 acp! Use the cash to to help buy a Dillon press so you can load large quanties later on.

 

[jwoolf]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

You already got some great advice... you don't need everything right away but, let me make two suggestions that I feel that you will need right away.

To load 7mm you should get at the very least the belted magnum collet die. This will save you a shit ton of cash by keeping you from throwing away brass after the 3rd reload.

Also, take some time and learn to anneal. You have to do that after the third reloading to for that caliber.

If you learn how to prep your brass correctly and not over-work it, it will last a long time... if you don't prep it correctly, with a belted magnum caliber, you can get into a world of hurt by separating case heads and over stretching it etc. Make sure and get the right tools to work it correctly and, you'll save a lot of mess down the road IMHO. Learn how to bump the shoulder correctly to like .002 and no more, this will keep the case stretch to a minimum at the case head. There are articles that are sticky at the top of this forum, really take the time to read them. There are some specialty tools that you need but, remember that you're working with a belted magnum and, they require extra attention to the brass.

http://www.larrywillis.com/

 

[jwoolf]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KeeblerArmy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't forget to factor the hours off your life into the equation. I'm still a newb to reloading and my intention was to try to get something close to match grade cheaper. That's for .308 at least.

<span style="font-style: italic"><span style="color: #FF0000">Personally, reloading pistol or AR rounds just isn't worth the time involved. They get shot up too fast. YMMV </span></span></div></div>


That was what I was thinking as well. And since my current AR and 1911 are just for that...to burn up ammo, no need in doing a handload to get most out of it. As long as it shoots and it does its damage, that is all I am worried about with those.

The .308 and my 7MM Im doing, however, would be nice to do something for those....

Time...THAT is what Im thinking Im actually gonna have for once. Im a car guy by nature, and I build Hot Rods/Race cars out of my shop. But, that's just it...my cars are all up at my shop, so I dont get to spend as much time messing with them. I cant just hop out into my garage and do it...shop is 20 minute drive...so, 2 kids, wife...hard to do.

Handloading...well, I CAN set it up in my garage, and just pop out there from time to time.
Was told, to do @ 30 rounds, on average, takes @ 90 minutes...sometimes more, sometimes less...depending on equipment and how long youve been at it.

Anyone care to add how long it takes you to do say, 20, 30, 50 or whatever rounds? </div></div>

Loading pistol and .223 can be done but, it's a way different set up than for rifle.

My dillon XL650 and case feeder mow through .223 and any pistol caliber.... when I'm working at it, 500/hr on pistol and maybe 350/hr .223 is completely doable. Attach the rapid trimmer and mow through trimming the .223 and, you're all set up for AR loading. ( using a ball powder like Ramshot TAC )

Rifle hand loading is a labor of love... don't do it unless it is.... pistol or progressive hand loading is another animal all together, IMHO.

It's worth it though to be able to produce GREAT quality ammo for like .19/round. Sure, you can buy crappy com block stuff for that price but, you won't get the quality stuff I make for anything close to that price.

loading on a progressive press becomes necessary when you start pistol shooting in any volume. I started shooting IDPA a year or so ago and found myself running through 350 rounds/week punishing steel targets and, you simply can't do that unless you're a rich man but, if you're willing to shoot cast bullets and load them yourself, you can load about 1000 rounds for less than 100.00.

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

OK guys...getting ready to head out door, havnt had time to read the new replies sinc I last posted...

I will later on this afternoon..

What I found out last night looking like through my Midway catalog, it seems that if I buy brass and bullets, and you add in powder, then what yo upay for equipment, it will take a LOOOOOOONNNNGGGGGGG time to break even or start saving money.

Maybe teh above replies have some tips for me on where to get brass/bullets...again, havent read them..YET. I will soon as I get back near my computer...just wanted to update....

thanks again guys, look forward to seeing what ya'll had to say...

 

[shoot4fun]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

I bought my first reloading set up in 1977. It was a Lyman All American press, RCBS 10-10 scale, 3 sets of dies (all pistol), RCBS lube pad, RCBS powder measure, assorted bullets, primers, etc and all stuffed in a Kennedy tool box. It cost $150.
The RCBS kit you're looking at will definitely get you going. Their products are high quality and long lasting. I still use all the RCBS gear I bought used almost 35 years ago.

 

[layinclose2hell]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

Save some money in shipping, find and buy powder locally. The upfront initial costs seem big, but figure in purchasing the minimum needed, and the experience, and finding the load that really works in that rifle, and it is worth every penny.
More defined equipment will come with your personal routine and objectives after time has passed. I started with the Hornady kit. I am looking to purchase a new setup and keep the press as a secondary, but I have already replaced most of it. And definitely pick up a digital scale and as many books as you can. Also remember that powder manufacturers also have starting loads and max loads listed on most of their websites.
(I use Hornady...)
Read, Read, Read.
And HAVE FUN!!!

 

[gunsnjeeps]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

If you just want to reload to save money you'll never get there. You can figure how much it costs to load and when you'll pay your equipment off. If all you want is blasting ammo buy Wolf.

Approach a single stage as a learning experience. You'll always use it for something. After a box or two of .45 ACP you'll want a progressive. Don't cheap out on a press. That doesn't mean buy the most expensive but get a good press. Lot's of discussion on that here. Everyone will have an opinion.

As far as 5.56 cost per round. I load match ammo for 32 cents a round. 22 cents a bullet, 3 cents a primer, 7 cents for powder. $6.40 per 20. Depending on quantity you can get 55 grain bullets for under a dime a piece, making $4 a box with the brass you have on hand. You can even set up a progressive for 5.56 ammo. Buying new brass is about 23 cents a case, you can get once fired for about 8 cents a case by the hundred or 7 cents by the thousand. Buying once fired brass is under $6 for 20.

I load almost everything I shoot now. I know my guns and my loads will hit where I aim.

 

[Leaddog]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KeeblerArmy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Personally, reloading pistol or AR rounds just isn't worth the time involved. They get shot up too fast. YMMV</div></div>

Seriously? I load .45acp for $4.50/50 and load 3-400/hr on my Dillon 550. That's hard to beat at Wallyworld buying ammo.

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can run 300+ rounds @ hr. of HG ammo on my D550 all day every day.(BTW,I'm 60 yo)
Match rifle(308)about 100 @ hr. little less loading bp in .45-70 and .45-90.
It's ALL in your prep.
Cheers,
LG </div></div>

Are you saying that you can cmopletely "assemble" a cartridge, ready to fire, 300 in ONE hour? Thats like 5 cartridges every minute, or 1 every 12 seconds...maybe Im not understanding your comment, but that seems impossible

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Santo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Using once fired Lake City brass which I can get for 5 cents, some times less and there is always lots free range pick ups I can reload 55 grain 223/5.56x45 using surplus 55 grain FMJ for 10-15 cents or less if using pick up brass, a round depeding on how much projos cost with shipping. @ $8 a box of 20 that's 40 cents a round. Even when I load Sierra SMK's it's less than 25-30 cents a round depending on the SMK I am using. So I believe ther is savings to be had reloading 223/5.56x45. </div></div>


OK well, I guess I have shopping around to do, because teh brass Ive seen (like at Midway) is kind of pricey....if youtake say teh "cheapest" which is Winchester..can get 50 rounds of brass for $21 (.308). That comes out to @ 2 1/2 cases per dollar, or about .45 cents for each case. Add in a bullet (Hornady 168 BTHP, per 100 is $28) so, that is @ 3 bullets for each dollar, or @ .33 cents each bullet, so, now at @ .75-.78 cents for each cartridge, but havent added in powder. I can get the SAME ammo, from Powder Valley, for 20 cartridges for $26 so, that comes out to about a $1.30 for each cartridge or about .30-.40 cents more per.

Add in the equipment cost, AND my time, and that to me,without even accounting for my time, but JUST the equipment I bought, will cost me MORE to reload.

Maybe once teh equipment is paid off...so, say you are saving @ .30 for each cartridge.

Equipment, with dies, what, set ya back around $400 for everything? So, if you save .40 for each cart. you would have to fire what, @ 1000 rounds to get EVEN...which, I guess isnt THAT long...but considering Ive fired @ 300-400 (will have to check to be sure) in my .308 in over a year..well...that is what 3 YEARS JUST TO GET EVEN, and that is not counting my time....Hmmmmmmmmmm


EDIT:
No, my math is not SPOT on..just going rough numbers in my head....

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gondy223</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have the same single stage set up, and if it didn't come with a digital scale, get one. They help a bunch, a good case trimmer and a trim mate should be on the "things to get list" also. I agree with Clark on the speer book, a joke. Use these items with your current set up, until you are reloading too much for this set up, then upgrade. Hope this helps. </div></div>


Yes, it does, thanks.
Right now, Im looking into cost reloading vs buying outright..and maybe Im looking at it wrong..maybe most do it becuase they WANT to, not because it saves them money?????

But, Ive always read that "Oh, if you are going to shoot this or that, you HAVE to reload...regular ammo is just so costly". Well, from what Im reading/looking at, it's not that big of a difference (cost)

Sounds like I have more homework to do, and look into locating cheaper brass (Ive been saving all of my .308 brass since I started) to maybe get price of reloading down quite a bit.

But, again, maybe people reload for other reasons because cost? They like to do it? They feel they can get better accuracy?

So, maybe with my .308, is NOT the rifle I need to be reloading for then. I mean, ammo is cheap (to me it is, again, comparing what I did above) AND with ammo Im buying its a shooter, and that I am more than happy with. So????

Maybe it's the 7MM Im building that I need to reload for??

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TAC06</div><div class="ubbcode-body">+1 with what Gondy223 said.

Get yourself a copy of the Seirra reloading manual for a start on your reloading library. I like the Hornady manual for some stuff too but thats me.

Case prep station is a good suggestion too. I been pineing for the Hornandy case prep center for awhile and it case trims too. Never used on but it has to work a little better than RCBS's. Lyman has a new one out now too.

You can shop around for a case cleaner and media seperator. I have the Dillon 1200 Large vibrator cleaner and separator but there are others out there that should work as well and is smaller than mine. My Dillon 1200 Vibrator is huge and takes up alot of counter space and the separator is not fully enclosed so the dust goes all over so I had to use it outside on a folding table and separate outside too. Less of a lead hazzard that way. I do large batches of brass at a time s it is faster for me but a few hundred rounds of .308 can be done in a smaller case cleaner.

And don't leave your brass at the range when it comes too .223 and .45. Pick it up and save it back. Keep your eye out for bulet sales and you can get bullets for 6-9 cents a bullet for 55 grain .223 and .45 diameter bullets can vary if shooting lead or copper jacketed bullets. And pistol ammo for plinking you don't have to load full house loads, you can down load the powder charges and use a few grains Unique powder or Clays powder to shoot out a .45.

say:
.10 cent lead pistol bullet
4.1 grain powder charge for a given load, 7000 grains to a pound of powder comes to 1707 charges of powder. For giggles say that pound of powder cost $22.00 dollars. my calculator says .01 cent a charge of powder
once fired .45 ACP range brass free
total should be .11 cents a round

And if you shoot a reduced powder load pistol round it shoots the same at close ranges and doesn't stress the brass that much. You could shoot and reload that same .45 brass for several times over till it wears out.

Or if you still don't want to reload all that .223 and .45 acp brass then save it back and trade it to a reloader for something you want or sell it. Its worth something to someone. Especially the .45 acp! Use the cash to to help buy a Dillon press so you can load large quanties later on. </div></div>




Well, I havent been saving my .45 or .223 yet (that shit is flying !!!!)

The .308 BA, well, obviously, thats been easy to save, and Ive saved every single round fired in her.


So, let me ask you guys this (and Im pretty sure you answered this already in teh above quote)

So, once I buy brass, after I load it, then fire it, I CAN use teh brass again? And same goes for the ammo I buy at the store/Outdoor World/Wal Mart and Powder Valley and Midway aare places I buy/have bought from.
So, I buy from them, and I can reload THAT brass once it's been fired, right?

So, that right there should help with costs. Or, am I dreaming outloud?

 

[shoot4fun]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can run 300+ rounds @ hr. of HG ammo on my D550 all day every day.(BTW,I'm 60 yo)
Match rifle(308)about 100 @ hr. little less loading bp in .45-70 and .45-90.
It's ALL in your prep.
Cheers,
LG </div></div>

Are you saying that you can cmopletely "assemble" a cartridge, ready to fire, 300 in ONE hour? Thats like 5 cartridges every minute, or 1 every 12 seconds...maybe Im not understanding your comment, but that seems impossible

</div></div>
That appears to be what he is saying and it is well within the realm of possibility. As a matter of fact, I have produced as much as 500 rounds of pistol ammo in one hour. Of course, that doesn't include the time spent loading up all the primer tubes. Keep your focus though. You should want to learn the reloading basics and that will be done best with a single stage press.
The reloading manuals have a section in the front dedicated to the newbie. It is very good reading.
Good luck with your endeavor. It can provide much pride of accomplishment.

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jwoolf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You already got some great advice... you don't need everything right away but, let me make two suggestions that I feel that you will need right away.

To load 7mm you should get at the very least the belted magnum collet die. This will save you a shit ton of cash by keeping you from throwing away brass after the 3rd reload.

Also, take some time and learn to anneal. You have to do that after the third reloading to for that caliber.

If you learn how to prep your brass correctly and not over-work it, it will last a long time... if you don't prep it correctly, with a belted magnum caliber, you can get into a world of hurt by separating case heads and over stretching it etc. Make sure and get the right tools to work it correctly and, you'll save a lot of mess down the road IMHO. Learn how to bump the shoulder correctly to like .002 and no more, this will keep the case stretch to a minimum at the case head. There are articles that are sticky at the top of this forum, really take the time to read them. There are some specialty tools that you need but, remember that you're working with a belted magnum and, they require extra attention to the brass.

http://www.larrywillis.com/

</div></div>


OK, EXCELLENT INFO! Thanks! So, this answers my question, that I was pretty sure was answered already, btu now I KNOW...I CAN reuse brass...so that saves ALOT of money right there, so the "per cartridge cost" goes down BIG time, just by teh 2nd time you reload it (brass is now free, so saving @ .40 a cartridge.)

OK, so NOW we are getting somewhere!

Now, you say that with teh 7MM Im doing, there is alot of care to be taken once using brass more than once (I understand that EVERYTIME you reload, care needs to be taken, but ya'll get my point)
So, what about teh .308? .45? ,223?

IS there a "safe" number that brass can be used for? Do different calibers have a different "life expectancy"?
And say a Magnum has a shorter life?

Is there a "general rule of thumb"? on how long I can reuse brass? Is there a way to "inspect" it and know whether or not I can reuse it? (Im sure there is, just asking how you can)

OK guys, gotta run, will follow up rest of replies when I get back near the 'puter....THANKS A TON GUYS!!!


Sorry guys, my typing SUCKS..I CAN spell, just typing sucks bad...and yes, my "the" comes out "teh" more times than not..again, typing..and I just dont go back and change it..

 

[Gondy223]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TAC06</div><div class="ubbcode-body">+1 with what Gondy223 said.

Get yourself a copy of the Seirra reloading manual for a start on your reloading library. I like the Hornady manual for some stuff too but thats me.

Case prep station is a good suggestion too. I been pineing for the Hornandy case prep center for awhile and it case trims too. Never used on but it has to work a little better than RCBS's. Lyman has a new one out now too.

You can shop around for a case cleaner and media seperator. I have the Dillon 1200 Large vibrator cleaner and separator but there are others out there that should work as well and is smaller than mine. My Dillon 1200 Vibrator is huge and takes up alot of counter space and the separator is not fully enclosed so the dust goes all over so I had to use it outside on a folding table and separate outside too. Less of a lead hazzard that way. I do large batches of brass at a time s it is faster for me but a few hundred rounds of .308 can be done in a smaller case cleaner.

And don't leave your brass at the range when it comes too .223 and .45. Pick it up and save it back. Keep your eye out for bulet sales and you can get bullets for 6-9 cents a bullet for 55 grain .223 and .45 diameter bullets can vary if shooting lead or copper jacketed bullets. And pistol ammo for plinking you don't have to load full house loads, you can down load the powder charges and use a few grains Unique powder or Clays powder to shoot out a .45.

say:
.10 cent lead pistol bullet
4.1 grain powder charge for a given load, 7000 grains to a pound of powder comes to 1707 charges of powder. For giggles say that pound of powder cost $22.00 dollars. my calculator says .01 cent a charge of powder
once fired .45 ACP range brass free
total should be .11 cents a round

And if you shoot a reduced powder load pistol round it shoots the same at close ranges and doesn't stress the brass that much. You could shoot and reload that same .45 brass for several times over till it wears out.

Or if you still don't want to reload all that .223 and .45 acp brass then save it back and trade it to a reloader for something you want or sell it. Its worth something to someone. Especially the .45 acp! Use the cash to to help buy a Dillon press so you can load large quanties later on. </div></div>




Well, I havent been saving my .45 or .223 yet (that shit is flying !!!!)

The .308 BA, well, obviously, thats been easy to save, and Ive saved every single round fired in her.


So, let me ask you guys this (and Im pretty sure you answered this already in teh above quote)

So, once I buy brass, after I load it, then fire it, I CAN use teh brass again? And same goes for the ammo I buy at the store/Outdoor World/Wal Mart and Powder Valley and Midway aare places I buy/have bought from.
So, I buy from them, and I can reload THAT brass once it's been fired, right?

So, that right there should help with costs. Or, am I dreaming outloud? </div></div>


That is absolutely correct. If you buy ammo (that is brass cased, which most of it is, you can reload it.) Something that I did also, was look into once fired brass (starline brass, or even the lake city brass at Midway). That will save you some money, but then again, you are working with used brass. Not a big deal to me, but some might not like to do that. I agree with the guys that say to buy your powder locally, they charge extra for shipping powder and primers, so keep that in mind. When I was just starting to reload, I saved up every piece of brass I could, and started reloading that, then eventually I began buying brass.

 

[jwoolf]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can run 300+ rounds @ hr. of HG ammo on my D550 all day every day.(BTW,I'm 60 yo)
Match rifle(308)about 100 @ hr. little less loading bp in .45-70 and .45-90.
It's ALL in your prep.
Cheers,
LG </div></div>

Are you saying that you can cmopletely "assemble" a cartridge, ready to fire, 300 in ONE hour? Thats like 5 cartridges every minute, or 1 every 12 seconds...maybe Im not understanding your comment, but that seems impossible

</div></div>

It's not at all impossible.

On my "progressive" press, I do that all the time. It's very different than hand loading on a single stage press, however.

It's more expensive to set up a progressive press initially BUT, if you shoot 300+ rounds of pistol/week then, you can't afford not to have a progressive press.

So, for example, if you find a good deal on 45 acp and buy it for 20.00/box that means that 1000 rounds = 400.00 but, if you reload them and shoot cast bullets, you can load them for under 100.00. Shooting 350 rounds/week would put you through 1000 rounds in about three weeks so, if you don't reload and shoot that much, you're spending 400.00 every three weeks or about 100.00 every three weeks to load them yourself.

But, all that said, you don't save ONE dime by reloading ...you just shoot a LOT more.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can run 300+ rounds @ hr. of HG ammo on my D550 all day every day.(BTW,I'm 60 yo)
Match rifle(308)about 100 @ hr. little less loading bp in .45-70 and .45-90.
It's ALL in your prep.
Cheers,
LG </div></div>

Are you saying that you can cmopletely "assemble" a cartridge, ready to fire, 300 in ONE hour? Thats like 5 cartridges every minute, or 1 every 12 seconds...maybe Im not understanding your comment, but that seems impossible

</div></div>

YES, I can go from empty case to live round EASY for a handgun @ 300+ an hr.
My son can run 500+ easy(dang, kid )
Started using a Dillon in 1987

Look up Dillon vids and YOU will see foryourownself

Like I said before.......It's ALL in your prep

BTW, I shoot over 1200 rnds a month in various "toys" and YES I'm retired with a VERY good retirement package

Cheers,
LG

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shoot4fun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought my first reloading set up in 1977. It was a Lyman All American press, RCBS 10-10 scale, 3 sets of dies (all pistol), RCBS lube pad, RCBS powder measure, assorted bullets, primers, etc and all stuffed in a Kennedy tool box. It cost $150.
The RCBS kit you're looking at will definitely get you going. Their products are high quality and long lasting. I still use all the RCBS gear I bought used almost 35 years ago. </div></div>


Very good to know, THANKS!!

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: layinclose2hell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Save some money in shipping, find and buy powder locally. The upfront initial costs seem big, but figure in purchasing the minimum needed, and the experience, and finding the load that really works in that rifle, and it is worth every penny.
More defined equipment will come with your personal routine and objectives after time has passed. I started with the Hornady kit. I am looking to purchase a new setup and keep the press as a secondary, but I have already replaced most of it. And definitely pick up a digital scale and as many books as you can. Also remember that powder manufacturers also have starting loads and max loads listed on most of their websites.
(I use Hornady...)
Read, Read, Read.
And HAVE FUN!!!
</div></div>


Thanks! You and I will do some catching up...I shoudl be free tomorrow or Sunday so we can hit the range one of those day...

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gunsnjeeps</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you just want to reload to save money you'll never get there. You can figure how much it costs to load and when you'll pay your equipment off. If all you want is blasting ammo buy Wolf.

Approach a single stage as a learning experience. You'll always use it for something. After a box or two of .45 ACP you'll want a progressive. Don't cheap out on a press. That doesn't mean buy the most expensive but get a good press. Lot's of discussion on that here. Everyone will have an opinion.

As far as 5.56 cost per round. I load match ammo for 32 cents a round. 22 cents a bullet, 3 cents a primer, 7 cents for powder. $6.40 per 20. Depending on quantity you can get 55 grain bullets for under a dime a piece, making $4 a box with the brass you have on hand. You can even set up a progressive for 5.56 ammo. Buying new brass is about 23 cents a case, you can get once fired for about 8 cents a case by the hundred or 7 cents by the thousand. Buying once fired brass is under $6 for 20.

I load almost everything I shoot now. I know my guns and my loads will hit where I aim. </div></div>



Cool...very good info, and more Im reading up on what you and everyone is saying, and info Im taking in, is all starting to make more sense, and now see why people reload. So far, I see it as not some HUGE money saver. Over short haul, saves you a little bit, but all in all, most would probaly be better off in just buying ammo instead of reloading. Over long haul, it starts to pay for itself and then eventually out of red and back in the black.
And from what im gathering, MOST do it because they enjoy it AND in the case where they are trying to squeeze every last bit of accuracy out of thier rifle/setup, they reload.

SO, basically comes down to NOT only being about $$$$..it's about that AND the tangibles...

Thanks guys

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shoot4fun</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can run 300+ rounds @ hr. of HG ammo on my D550 all day every day.(BTW,I'm 60 yo)
Match rifle(308)about 100 @ hr. little less loading bp in .45-70 and .45-90.
It's ALL in your prep.
Cheers,
LG </div></div>

Are you saying that you can cmopletely "assemble" a cartridge, ready to fire, 300 in ONE hour? Thats like 5 cartridges every minute, or 1 every 12 seconds...maybe Im not understanding your comment, but that seems impossible

</div></div>
That appears to be what he is saying and it is well within the realm of possibility. As a matter of fact, I have produced as much as 500 rounds of pistol ammo in one hour. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="color: #FF0000">Of course, that doesn't include the time spent loading up all the primer tubes. K</span></span>eep your focus though. You should want to learn the reloading basics and that will be done best with a single stage press.
The reloading manuals have a section in the front dedicated to the newbie. It is very good reading.
Good luck with your endeavor. It can provide much pride of accomplishment. </div></div>


Well, if not counting that, then you are leaving time out and you are NOT reloading that much ammo in an hour. I mean, if you dont have to do that step, that is one thing. But, you HAVE to take that into consideration because you ARE spending time on doing that step.

Kind of like saying I can change my oil in 1 minute, because all I need to do is pull drain plug and pop off oil filter.
BUT, you also have to go buy your oil, get out your tools, drain pan, towels, wait for oil to drain. Add oil. Dispose of old oil.
Those are ALL steps that you HAVE to do to change your oil...you cant just leave one out when looking at how much time it takes to change your oil to justify changing your oil or taking it somewhere to have it done.

So, if that is a step in reloading, then you HAVE to look at it and take it into consideration.
If not, might as well not add in the time in measuring powder, adding pwder, prepping brass, etc.. and instead just add the time it takes to seat a bullet.

I want to know how much time FULLY it takes to reload.

If I was to sit down at a bench, equipment laid out in front of me, and starting from scratch, how much time is involved.

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gondy223</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TAC06</div><div class="ubbcode-body">+1 with what Gondy223 said.

Get yourself a copy of the Seirra reloading manual for a start on your reloading library. I like the Hornady manual for some stuff too but thats me.

Case prep station is a good suggestion too. I been pineing for the Hornandy case prep center for awhile and it case trims too. Never used on but it has to work a little better than RCBS's. Lyman has a new one out now too.

You can shop around for a case cleaner and media seperator. I have the Dillon 1200 Large vibrator cleaner and separator but there are others out there that should work as well and is smaller than mine. My Dillon 1200 Vibrator is huge and takes up alot of counter space and the separator is not fully enclosed so the dust goes all over so I had to use it outside on a folding table and separate outside too. Less of a lead hazzard that way. I do large batches of brass at a time s it is faster for me but a few hundred rounds of .308 can be done in a smaller case cleaner.

And don't leave your brass at the range when it comes too .223 and .45. Pick it up and save it back. Keep your eye out for bulet sales and you can get bullets for 6-9 cents a bullet for 55 grain .223 and .45 diameter bullets can vary if shooting lead or copper jacketed bullets. And pistol ammo for plinking you don't have to load full house loads, you can down load the powder charges and use a few grains Unique powder or Clays powder to shoot out a .45.

say:
.10 cent lead pistol bullet
4.1 grain powder charge for a given load, 7000 grains to a pound of powder comes to 1707 charges of powder. For giggles say that pound of powder cost $22.00 dollars. my calculator says .01 cent a charge of powder
once fired .45 ACP range brass free
total should be .11 cents a round

And if you shoot a reduced powder load pistol round it shoots the same at close ranges and doesn't stress the brass that much. You could shoot and reload that same .45 brass for several times over till it wears out.

Or if you still don't want to reload all that .223 and .45 acp brass then save it back and trade it to a reloader for something you want or sell it. Its worth something to someone. Especially the .45 acp! Use the cash to to help buy a Dillon press so you can load large quanties later on. </div></div>




Well, I havent been saving my .45 or .223 yet (that shit is flying !!!!)

The .308 BA, well, obviously, thats been easy to save, and Ive saved every single round fired in her.


So, let me ask you guys this (and Im pretty sure you answered this already in teh above quote)

So, once I buy brass, after I load it, then fire it, I CAN use teh brass again? And same goes for the ammo I buy at the store/Outdoor World/Wal Mart and Powder Valley and Midway aare places I buy/have bought from.
So, I buy from them, and I can reload THAT brass once it's been fired, right?

So, that right there should help with costs. Or, am I dreaming outloud? </div></div>


That is absolutely correct. If you buy ammo (that is brass cased, which most of it is, you can reload it.) Something that I did also, was look into once fired brass (starline brass, or even the lake city brass at Midway). That will save you some money, but then again, you are working with used brass. Not a big deal to me, but some might not like to do that. I agree with the guys that say to buy your powder locally, they charge extra for shipping powder and primers, so keep that in mind. When I was just starting to reload, I saved up every piece of brass I could, and started reloading that, then eventually I began buying brass. </div></div>



Awesome, thanks!

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can run 300+ rounds @ hr. of HG ammo on my D550 all day every day.(BTW,I'm 60 yo)
Match rifle(308)about 100 @ hr. little less loading bp in .45-70 and .45-90.
It's ALL in your prep.
Cheers,
LG </div></div>

Are you saying that you can cmopletely "assemble" a cartridge, ready to fire, 300 in ONE hour? Thats like 5 cartridges every minute, or 1 every 12 seconds...maybe Im not understanding your comment, but that seems impossible

</div></div>

YES, I can go from empty case to live round EASY for a handgun @ 300+ an hr.
My son can run 500+ easy(dang, kid )
Started using a Dillon in 1987

Look up Dillon vids and YOU will see foryourownself

Like I said before.......It's ALL in your prep

BTW, I shoot over 1200 rnds a month in various "toys" and YES I'm retired with a VERY good retirement package

Cheers,
LG

</div></div>



Well, Im guessing that it is different equipment than from what im looking at. Sure, I understand that experience plays a huge part in it and how quickly it can be done. But, if say building a car at home from scratch, I dont care HOW much experience you have, STILL gonna take you a LONG time to build it. HOWEVER, if that same person hopped on an assembly line at a factory, he could build teh same car in obviously ALOT less time.


So, when all of teh above are saying that they are reloading 300, 500 whatever rounds an hour, it is NOT with equipment Im looking at, correct?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

I am using a Dillon 550 withOUT a case feeder.
Went out last night and loaded 300+ rnds in about 50 minutes for this weekend.
Cheers,
LG

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

My wife(also a shooter)keeps my 20 primer tubes filled so all I have to do is open another box of bullets and keep the PM filled.
And anybody who doesn't think your saving a bucket of $$$ buy reloading is NUTS......I had my Dillon paid for in 6 mos with the money saved.
Go drive a Dillon then get back to me.
Cheers,
LG

 

[LngRngShtr]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

500 rounds 1 hour 15 mins. .45ACP WW231 and a 200 gr. LSWC (Saturday night before a match and discovered the ammo can wasn't full)
300 rounds 1 hour 10 mins. .30-06 147 FMJ IMR4895 ( M-1 Garand)

Random samples show very little variation in powder charge OAL etc.

Dillon RL450 (times from empty press to empty press) I have 7 primer tubes for each size which I load first then adjust powder and start loading.. there is a rhythm to using a progressive I only break that rhythm when I top off the powder,primers or bins of bullets/brass

the "progressives" do it with 1/4 the number of press strokes for handgun (4 dies) and 1/3 the number for rifle (3 dies) it is just more efficient.

I also have an RCBS JR3 and a Lyman Spartan single stage for smaller work...

John

even if I wasn't reloading all my ammo I would save all my brass, never know when it will get "scarce" and you can always trade for a caliber you do reload for...

<span style="color: #FF0000">Anybody feels that reloading handgun or .223 isn't worth it PM me I'll send you my address,.. and pay for flat rate boxes for your unwanted brass...</span>

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...





If I was to sit down at a bench, equipment laid out in front of me, and starting from scratch, how much time is involved.

It ALL depends on the junk your using

LG

 

[gunsnjeeps]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

It does depend on how much you shoot on how soon you can "pay off" your equipment. You might start shooting more since you have ammo on hand more often.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...871#Post2103871

This was a thread in October about "savings" I have a thread on another forum where I figured out how many rounds to reload t pay off a kit. I'll try to find it, but It was around 12 to 1500 rounds. Brass has different life spans. From what I've read .45 ACP lasts for 10 to 12 loadings. I've done two or three and it still looks good. 5.56 I've read up to 10 but it also depends on how you load. I expect to get 5 or 6 but I'm loading max loads of 5.56 not .223, highe pressure shortens life. Brass is a big expense up front for new but once fired cuts the cost even if you figure taking the crimp out of military brass or trimming after one or two firings. The tools for both can be costly but a more expensive tool can save lots of time.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...553#Post2248553

My RCBS I mention was a couple hundred dollars the Giraud isn't much more but when you figure its almost 10 times faster one night of trimming becomes an hour or so.

I also know that starting out presents a lot of cash upfront so even with the common advice of buy once, cry once; sometimes you buy what you can afford then either sell it used later or keep it as a spare or something that you use when you don't want to reset the one you have. For example you shoot .223 and .308, if you get a Giraud but only shoot 200 .308 a year and 1200 .223, it may not be worth setting up the trimmer for .308 but you can still trim the .308 on the old slower trimmer. Honestly I've heard the Giraud is easy to change though so that may not be the best example.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

Prep. is the key

 

[gunsnjeeps]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

I changed my post while lumpy was posting but even with my T-7, prep is the key. I spend a couple hours a night for a week week prepping cases that I'll shoot for 6 to 9 months. I prep and prime the summer brass over the winter when I'm not shooting as much.

 

[Peepaw]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

Maybe I missed it somewhere, but I am assuming those that are loading this many rounds are using different equipment than what I mentioned buying, yes?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

You did ask for "suggestions/opinions" in your 1st post, did you not

Cheers,
LG

 

[tomcatfan]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

Another key point to it all is to just have fun. I got into realoading to save $$$, but once I realized how much fun it was I stoped paying attention to the cost.

 

[jwoolf]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

PeePaw,

You're going to find that you're not going to approach the 300-500 rounds/hour working on a single stage press, Like some can get working on a progressive press with or without a case feeder but, that is because loading 308win should not, in most cases be done on a progressive press ( although you can do it on a progressive press )

To get the most accuracy out of a rifle round, great care has to be taken in loading to get the maximum accuracy out of your hand loads.

As I get better and better at reloading, I find that almost all my time is spent on getting the brass ready to load.... even the loading is slow in that I weigh each powder charge and trickle charge each one till the weight is EXACTLY right.

Loading for a rifle is a labor of love and, to get it right, you can not rush it. There are extra steps involved when loading a bottle neck case in that they need trimming and annealing also to do it correctly.

It is really worth it all because, frankly speaking, you can not go and buy anything that will shoot half as well if you do it even half correctly and, you will save money in the process. ( after equipment cost )

Saving money is great but, the real pay off is how well your rifle will shoot with the quality ammo you can create yourself.

Brass life will vary but, with a little care you should be able to reload your 308win brass at least 10 times.... maybe 20 times if you pay close attention to your headspace and don't overwork your brass by resizing it too much each time.

The trick to getting the most life out of your brass is also the trick to loading accurately. You want to size the brass as little as possible so you'll probably need a few specialized tools for this. Check the sticky threads at the top of the reloading forum. It will show you how to prep your brass correctly. If you follow all of that then, you'll be well on your way to reloading correctly and accurately.

 

[jmtyndall]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Equipment, with dies, what, set ya back around $400 for everything? So, if you save .40 for each cart. you would have to fire what, @ 1000 rounds to get EVEN...which, I guess isnt THAT long...but considering Ive fired @ 300-400 (will have to check to be sure) in my .308 in over a year..well...that is what 3 YEARS JUST TO GET EVEN, and that is not counting my time....Hmmmmmmmmmm</div></div>

You're looking at it all wrong. If you're doing it purely to save money, just stop now. Buy ammo when you find it for a good price and stockpile it. You won't save money reloading. You may save money PER CARTRIDGE, but you won't spend any less on ammo. Proof? The year before I reloaded, I shot 400 rounds of .40s&w and 500 rounds of .223. The year I started reloading...I shot 1200 of each.

 

[ranger1183]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jmtyndall</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You're looking at it all wrong. If you're doing it purely to save money, just stop now. Buy ammo when you find it for a good price and stockpile it. You won't save money reloading. You may save money PER CARTRIDGE, but you won't spend any less on ammo. Proof? The year before I reloaded, I shot 400 rounds of .40s&w and 500 rounds of .223. The year I started reloading...I shot 1200 of each. </div></div>
I agree! There ends up being NO money saved by reloading. Ok stuff you started with doesn't cut it after a while and you start "upgrading" / "doing it right". You will pour more money into that black hole of reloading than you will ever dream.

There are so many GREAT custom ammo places on the web (especially the Hide!) that can do all the precision reloading you want. "Cheaper than Dirt" and places like it sell all the bulk / factory match ammo if you want good practice ammo.

I reload a lot and the one thing I have learned is I haven't save a penny doing so. And the time consumed is unbelievable!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

Not buying it.....

I can load a .308 175SMK round that DOES equal or surpasses FGMM factory in all ways for less than 32 cents @ rnd.

Show me where I can beat that.........

I also shoot about 900-1200 rnds a month. I shoot 2-3 days a week and YOU say you don't/can't save $$$ reloading......YEAH, RIGHT

FWIW: I get all the FGMM .308 O/F brass I want for free so brass is not an issue.
I also load for 12 other calibers(.32 S&W-.454 Casull)and that includes black powder for a Shiloh Sharps .45-70 and .45-90.
Respectfully,
LG

 

[ranger1183]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

You the Man, Lumpy Grits!

Ok, so it's just ME that shovels money into the reloading black hole ...

 

[Fuzzball]

Re: New to reloading, have some questions...

The press you are looking at is a "single stage", meaning we have to do each step manually and one step at a time for each cartridge. Loading x hundred and hour is done on a "progressive" which puts out a completed cartridge with each pull of the lever.

Which is "better" depends on what you're loading and how much of it. Progressives are expensive but work fine for making lots of the same cartridge in a short period of time but they're lousy for smaller volumes of different loads for medium to large rifle ammo that is made for different cartridges. I have no need for a progressive and have never even been tempted by them fut ... whatever floats your boat. Whatever you end up with, it's much better to learn on a single stage and you won't ever not need it; start slow. RCBS tools/kits are good. Equally good, or even better, are tools from Lyman, Hornady, Redding, Forster and even some of the Lee stuff.

I started reloading in '65 to save money by using basic tools for just two cartridges. Have added several more specialty presses, cast bullet molds, precision measuring tools, dies for some 30+ cartridges, etc; think I'm gonna break even any day now but it's been fun. (I don't have have and would never pay for a quirky electronic reloading scale or digital powder dumpster system.)