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Nucleus Orders
- Thread starter hereinaz
- Start date
These two guys sum it up pretty well.
You don't need the Barloc if you are gonna do just one barrel and leave it till you shoot it out. You can manage without it. But, it is nice enough to spend the money. I will still do barrel nuts on some Savage actions, but Barlock is souch easier.
I don't have mine yet, but if I understand it correctly, when you tighten the collar the top of it will not stay perfectly flat, because as the gap closes the two sides are also moving a bit in the Y axis. That might make it difficult to index via a flat bottom on a rail.
I don't know when I'll get mine but I intend to try putting the screw in from the left hand side and using a shim or feeler gauge to block the bolt hole so I can spread the tensioner and get everything aligned by hand, then loosen the bolt to create partial tension, take it out and screw it back in on the right hand side to tension the threads.
If that works, it will align any way you want it.
That V2 drawing looks good, you would use a scope ring to align the tensioner but you still need to tighten the barrel/barrel nut enough to spread the tensioner which is when you'll potentially lose return to zero alignment.
If that works, it will align any way you want it.
That V2 drawing looks good, you would use a scope ring to align the tensioner but you still need to tighten the barrel/barrel nut enough to spread the tensioner which is when you'll potentially lose return to zero alignment.
It's not a big deal really having to index the Barloc. First it doesn't need to be perfectly horizontal (the top flat on Barloc), second even if you are as anal as me wanting it to be perfectly horizontal, it's not hard to do it by hand - remember the torque on the ring doesn't have to be at a specific setting, just so the gap is wide enough so the wrench fits. It took me just a minute or two to get it perfect with BA on barrel vise, then take it off and torque the hex screw to specified settings.
Is anyone planning on swithcing barrels, w/o re-zeroing, and if not, does it really matter if its within .5 MOA or 2 MOA? Its still just a shot, one adjustment, a confirming shot, and good to go.
That is where I am @Winny94 Frankly, getting a perfect return to zero is pretty low priority on my list of things at this point. I'd never trust a rifle to return to zero perfectly anyhow, and, that's just me. Whatever the circumstances, I'll take that first shot at 100 yards, and be able to adjust it. I can't think of a time during my use of a rifle, that I'd make a switch and rely on a perfect zero on the "cold bore" shot.
So, for me, whether it is .5 or 2.5 MOA, isn't a big deal for me. Besides, I'm mostly over the switchbarrel thing. I just like the ability to swap barrels more easily and reliably.
Not to mention switching barrels by a differ barrel maker, maybe caliber, etc. Just too many variables and things to keep track of to think you’re going to return to half MOA. I could see if this was more like switching a upper on a AR platform rig where the optic goes for the ride, you basically snap on a different upper and you’re on zero. I don’t think that’s the objective here as much as I think this allows the DIY guy to avoid the Smith for barrel upgrade and makes for much easier tear down for the DIY guy. Anyways...
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Boooooo.
I'm 31xx. I ordered the last day. Was hoping to see it sooner rather than later. Oh well.
Seriously? Is that for a short action .475 bolt face? Glad I was so proactive and sold my other rifle already... guess I'll throw rocks for the rest of the summer.
Or howa. Barreled actions are like $250 now at Brownells.
There ya go. Get the chassis you want, cheap Howa action for now, replace with Nucleus when it arrives.
Order number 256x, just received an email saying my order was completed, but did not have instructions on how to make final payment or where to send FFL info. I’ll be calling tomorrow.
**Update: ARC reached out explaining that the email was sent out by mistake, oh well back to waiting patiently
**Update: ARC reached out explaining that the email was sent out by mistake, oh well back to waiting patiently
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I ordered on 1/26 and am in the low 2800's. They sold a shit ton of actions in a short time.
I would guess 55 to 60% of those orders are actions, the other 40-45% accessories/magazines/rings. This is based on my serial number (00055) versus @hereinaz serial number (00005) and our relative order numbers.
I think this has some truth to it. I made a Barloc order after the Nucleus specific were announced. Not sure what proportion, but they were still selling rings, mags, and Mausingfields.
It’s exactly correct. I have 2 sets of rings I did the same day I ordered my Nucleus and they’re in numerical sequence to my action order.
I've no personal experience but I went shooting a few times with a guy who has a 7mm Ex-caliber pre-fit and he loves it, shoots really well. however, one gunsmith I called (can't remember which) was lukewarm on em'. I prefer to just have a gunsmith make a pre-fit out of a Rock Creek, or Bartlein etc...
I have a X-caliber Savage pre-fit for my Nucleus action. Still waiting on my barloc but I’ve screwed it into the action to see if everything is going to fit together and it screws in nicely.
I as well have a couple x-caliber barrels waiting on actions. Had good luck with the others I have used on savage actions.
Does anyone who has installed a PVA barrel nut for savage prefit happen to know what size crow foot is needed and what torque is recommended? failing a crows foot, how many turns from finger tight are required to achieve proper torque with a traditional wrench?
Our barrel nut uses a 1-1/4" standard wrench. A big adjustable works, that's what I use in the shop.
As far as torque goes, keep it in the 40ftlb range. It doesn't need to go anywhere near as tight as a shouldered barrel.
What is the recommended torque for your shouldered barrels on the nucleus? Also, what type of grease do you recommend for the threads?
From the PVA website for the Nucleus specific action wrench: "Suggested installation torque is 75ft-lb for 223 & 308 size case heads; 100ft-lb for Magnum case heads."
http://patriotvalleyarms.com/arc-nucleus-action-wrench/
Holy torque balls Batman. 100 ft-lbs for magnum cases, that’s a lot of torque. I don’t know if my set up will produce that kind of torque.
It will. I hit that pretty easy on your bench vise before Josh told me not to exceed 60 on the savage barrel nut.
Got mine today. Slapped a Triggertech Diamond on it and bolted it in an XLR element. So smooth. Totally worth the wait.
Who says Friday the 13th is bad luck?
I picked up my Nucleus from my FFL. Then got home to find my PVA barrel was delivered.
Now waiting on action wrench, PRS stock from the group buy and a Super 700 trigger; but thinking about going with a TT instead.
I picked up my Nucleus from my FFL. Then got home to find my PVA barrel was delivered.
Now waiting on action wrench, PRS stock from the group buy and a Super 700 trigger; but thinking about going with a TT instead.
I emailed PVA a couple weeks ago about my barrel when I seen others were starting to get theirs. I only asked because I didn't order thru the website but thru a PM with Josh and mailed payment so I had never checked to make sure it didn't get lost in the shuffle.
Anyway Jeremy said they were about half way thru shipping barrels then so I would think it won't be much longer if they have the blanks.
I'm using 6 dasher. No issues feeding. Bolt has some resistance upon close with loaded round, but I think that's more due to me setting minimum headspace. Do not have this issue with empty chamber.
CRF doesn't work exactly as it should as the bolt does not capture the round as soon as it leaves mag. Instead, its captured closer to chamber. The rim still slides under the extractor like a CRF as opposed to the extractor snapping over like a push feed. I have yet to get a feeding problem, running fast or slow. 6 dasher loaded with 110 SMK is pretty much the most difficult to feed and I couldn't get it to fail.
When pulling back on the bolt and pressing down, it can hang up a bit towards the end of its travel. I think it's due to the extractor on the receiver walls. This was common at first but now that I've cycled it a bunch it only happens when I go very slow and basically trying to get it to happen. Pulling back and upwards the bolt is butter smooth.
I have no issues with bolt close.
I'm headed to the range now and will report anything else I see.
CRF doesn't work exactly as it should as the bolt does not capture the round as soon as it leaves mag. Instead, its captured closer to chamber. The rim still slides under the extractor like a CRF as opposed to the extractor snapping over like a push feed. I have yet to get a feeding problem, running fast or slow. 6 dasher loaded with 110 SMK is pretty much the most difficult to feed and I couldn't get it to fail.
When pulling back on the bolt and pressing down, it can hang up a bit towards the end of its travel. I think it's due to the extractor on the receiver walls. This was common at first but now that I've cycled it a bunch it only happens when I go very slow and basically trying to get it to happen. Pulling back and upwards the bolt is butter smooth.
I have no issues with bolt close.
I'm headed to the range now and will report anything else I see.
I have shot mine at the range on the bench. I am liking it. I may get some video put together of that. It does have quirks that seem to be fading as I run it more, as Lenny said.
I got a comment on one of my YouTube videos, that if the feed lips are shorter, then the shoulder of the round below it will push the round up into the CRF. I am going to cut back one of my Magpul mags and see.
I got a comment on one of my YouTube videos, that if the feed lips are shorter, then the shoulder of the round below it will push the round up into the CRF. I am going to cut back one of my Magpul mags and see.
Got my order in today, #248x (there was a long delay at the FFL, invoice was received on the 29th).
Like others mentioned, the serial number is in a pretty cool location that makes the receiver look really clean and smooth since it's not marred up anywhere for the serial number. It did, however, throw me and my FFL for a bit of a loop since I hadn't seen anyone actually mention the physical location of it. It's stamped on the bottom edge of the ejection port, facing up. I thought that was a nice touch.
I also think I've figured out the reason that the Nucleus feels so much smoother when you run it fast than when you try to run it slowly, after playing around with it for a couple hundred cycles. If you let the bolt slide forwards all the way, then try to press straight down on the bolt handle the bolt will not close. To get the bolt to close you have to press down AND forwards when you try to close it. Pressing only down will not close it. So it's almost the opposite of most actions I've felt, where pushing forwards while trying to close the bolt will bind it up.
As a result of this I've found I can cycle this action a LOT faster than the Savage 12FV I've got lying around. The Savage binds up when I try to run it really fast if I push forwards while pulling down on the bolt. The Nucleus requires at least a gentle push forwards on the bolt, so slamming it home while you pull it down only seems to make it faster.
Also mentioned by a couple others, but I really do like the bolt knob on it (which is the same as the Mausingfield). It's honestly perfectly shaped to get a really good grip on it with your index finger and thumb. It's also a great shape if you like to just lift the bolt with your extended index finger, since the finger sits right in the little groove in that case. I think the bolt knob is honestly one of my favorite parts, if not my favorite part, of the action just because it feels really nice in the hand to me compared to everything else I've felt.
EDIT: I think I also figured out the binding issue at the back of the bolt cycle that was present in some of the Nucleus videos out. When I take the bolt out and replace it, I get binding at the back of the bolt's cycle if I only turn the bolt stop when the bolt is all the way forwards. You need to hold the bolt just barely past the bolt stop to turn it all the way. I didn't experience binding at the back of the bolt's cycle when I made sure the bolt stop was fully rotated after re-inserting the bolt.
Like others mentioned, the serial number is in a pretty cool location that makes the receiver look really clean and smooth since it's not marred up anywhere for the serial number. It did, however, throw me and my FFL for a bit of a loop since I hadn't seen anyone actually mention the physical location of it. It's stamped on the bottom edge of the ejection port, facing up. I thought that was a nice touch.
I also think I've figured out the reason that the Nucleus feels so much smoother when you run it fast than when you try to run it slowly, after playing around with it for a couple hundred cycles. If you let the bolt slide forwards all the way, then try to press straight down on the bolt handle the bolt will not close. To get the bolt to close you have to press down AND forwards when you try to close it. Pressing only down will not close it. So it's almost the opposite of most actions I've felt, where pushing forwards while trying to close the bolt will bind it up.
As a result of this I've found I can cycle this action a LOT faster than the Savage 12FV I've got lying around. The Savage binds up when I try to run it really fast if I push forwards while pulling down on the bolt. The Nucleus requires at least a gentle push forwards on the bolt, so slamming it home while you pull it down only seems to make it faster.
Also mentioned by a couple others, but I really do like the bolt knob on it (which is the same as the Mausingfield). It's honestly perfectly shaped to get a really good grip on it with your index finger and thumb. It's also a great shape if you like to just lift the bolt with your extended index finger, since the finger sits right in the little groove in that case. I think the bolt knob is honestly one of my favorite parts, if not my favorite part, of the action just because it feels really nice in the hand to me compared to everything else I've felt.
EDIT: I think I also figured out the binding issue at the back of the bolt cycle that was present in some of the Nucleus videos out. When I take the bolt out and replace it, I get binding at the back of the bolt's cycle if I only turn the bolt stop when the bolt is all the way forwards. You need to hold the bolt just barely past the bolt stop to turn it all the way. I didn't experience binding at the back of the bolt's cycle when I made sure the bolt stop was fully rotated after re-inserting the bolt.
I really like to bolt throw. It likes a firm treatment.
Any issues with headspace and extractor impingement/protrusion issues with the garden variety criterion, shilen, etc prefits. I know it has been asked earlier, but just want to keep the question fresh since it was a topic of discussion early on in the other thread.
Looking to grab a variety of barrels...and whatever has a short lead time.
Any issues with headspace and extractor impingement/protrusion issues with the garden variety criterion, shilen, etc prefits. I know it has been asked earlier, but just want to keep the question fresh since it was a topic of discussion early on in the other thread.
Looking to grab a variety of barrels...and whatever has a short lead time.
