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No action/barrel vise. No requirement to remove the action from chassis to change barrel. Can change barrel in the field.So this thing doesn't need a barloc to attach barrel, just savage pre-fit with barrel nut? It looks like the Barloc is more trouble, can anyone state its advantages?
No action/barrel vise. No requirement to remove the action from chassis to change barrel. Can change barrel in the field.
Also, no more pain in the ass barrel nut that turns the barrel when you torque it and screws up the perfectly set headspace you had going. At least for those of us who don't have anything more than an action wrench and barrel nut wrench
I don't have mine yet, but if I understand it correctly, when you tighten the collar the top of it will not stay perfectly flat, because as the gap closes the two sides are also moving a bit in the Y axis. That might make it difficult to index via a flat bottom on a rail.It looks like the clamping mechanism is notched out so it can be held from rotating by an overhanging rail. That’s why I’m confused as to why it doesn’t work that way
Is anyone planning on swithcing barrels, w/o re-zeroing, and if not, does it really matter if its within .5 MOA or 2 MOA? Its still just a shot, one adjustment, a confirming shot, and good to go.
That is where I am @Winny94 Frankly, getting a perfect return to zero is pretty low priority on my list of things at this point. I'd never trust a rifle to return to zero perfectly anyhow, and, that's just me. Whatever the circumstances, I'll take that first shot at 100 yards, and be able to adjust it. I can't think of a time during my use of a rifle, that I'd make a switch and rely on a perfect zero on the "cold bore" shot.
So, for me, whether it is .5 or 2.5 MOA, isn't a big deal for me. Besides, I'm mostly over the switchbarrel thing. I just like the ability to swap barrels more easily and reliably.
So, as a frame of reference for everyone. I bought my Nucleus around 1/28 with an order number of 302X and I was quoted about 2 months till billing/ship.
I’m okay with this and I’m excited to see many reviews and builds by the time I get mine in hand.
So, as a frame of reference for everyone. I bought my Nucleus around 1/28 with an order number of 302X and I was quoted about 2 months till billing/ship.
I’m in the 2600’s and still not received anything ?Yes sir, right hand, SA, .475 bolt face.... honestly I may just buy a cheap savage to play with for the summer and sell it when it’s time to pay the invoice.
Get a tikkaYes sir, right hand, SA, .475 bolt face.... honestly I may just buy a cheap savage to play with for the summer and sell it when it’s time to pay the invoice.
Or howa. Barreled actions are like $250 now at Brownells.Get a tikka
Or howa. Barreled actions are like $250 now at Brownells.
241X just paid invoice.
I ordered on 1/26 and am in the low 2800's. They sold a shit ton of actions in a short time.Boooooo.
I'm 31xx. I ordered the last day. Was hoping to see it sooner rather than later. Oh well.
I would guess 55 to 60% of those orders are actions, the other 40-45% accessories/magazines/rings. This is based on my serial number (00055) versus @hereinaz serial number (00005) and our relative order numbers.I ordered on 1/26 and am in the low 2800's. They sold a shit ton of actions in a short time.
I would guess 55 to 60% of those orders are actions, the other 40-45% accessories/magazines/rings. This is based on my serial number (00055) versus @hereinaz serial number (00005) and our relative order numbers.
It’s exactly correct. I have 2 sets of rings I did the same day I ordered my Nucleus and they’re in numerical sequence to my action order.I think this has some truth to it. I made a Barloc order after the Nucleus specific were announced. Not sure what proportion, but they were still selling rings, mags, and Mausingfields.
Has anyone tried a X-caliber savage pre-fit?
I have a X-caliber Savage pre-fit for my Nucleus action. Still waiting on my barloc but I’ve screwed it into the action to see if everything is going to fit together and it screws in nicely.Has anyone tried a X-caliber savage pre-fit?
Does anyone who has installed a PVA barrel nut for savage prefit happen to know what size crow foot is needed and what torque is recommended? failing a crows foot, how many turns from finger tight are required to achieve proper torque with a traditional wrench?
Thanks!Our barrel nut uses a 1-1/4" standard wrench. A big adjustable works, that's what I use in the shop.
As far as torque goes, keep it in the 40ftlb range. It doesn't need to go anywhere near as tight as a shouldered barrel.
Our barrel nut uses a 1-1/4" standard wrench. A big adjustable works, that's what I use in the shop.
As far as torque goes, keep it in the 40ftlb range. It doesn't need to go anywhere near as tight as a shouldered barrel.
What is the recommended torque for your shouldered barrels on the nucleus? Also, what type of grease do you recommend for the threads?
It will. I hit that pretty easy on your bench vise before Josh told me not to exceed 60 on the savage barrel nut.Holy torque balls Batman. 100 ft-lbs for magnum cases, that’s a lot of torque. I don’t know if my set up will produce that kind of torque.
Who says Friday the 13th is bad luck?
I picked up my Nucleus from my FFL. Then got home to find my PVA barrel was delivered.
Now waiting on action wrench, PRS stock from the group buy and a Super 700 trigger; but thinking about going with a TT instead.
Yepper, with tracking number.Did you have a shipping notification from PVA?
Yepper, with tracking number.
Go buy a lottery ticket!Who says Friday the 13th is bad luck?
I picked up my Nucleus from my FFL. Then got home to find my PVA barrel was delivered.
Now waiting on action wrench, PRS stock from the group buy and a Super 700 trigger; but thinking about going with a TT instead.
I emailed PVA a couple weeks ago about my barrel when I seen others were starting to get theirs. I only asked because I didn't order thru the website but thru a PM with Josh and mailed payment so I had never checked to make sure it didn't get lost in the shuffle.Thanks, figured that was the case. Just waiting on my barrel.
Got my order in today, #248x (there was a long delay at the FFL, invoice was received on the 29th).
Like others mentioned, the serial number is in a pretty cool location that makes the receiver look really clean and smooth since it's not marred up anywhere for the serial number. It did, however, throw me and my FFL for a bit of a loop since I hadn't seen anyone actually mention the physical location of it. It's stamped on the bottom edge of the ejection port, facing up. I thought that was a nice touch.
I also think I've figured out the reason that the Nucleus feels so much smoother when you run it fast than when you try to run it slowly, after playing around with it for a couple hundred cycles. If you let the bolt slide forwards all the way, then try to press straight down on the bolt handle the bolt will not close. To get the bolt to close you have to press down AND forwards when you try to close it. Pressing only down will not close it. So it's almost the opposite of most actions I've felt, where pushing forwards while trying to close the bolt will bind it up.
As a result of this I've found I can cycle this action a LOT faster than the Savage 12FV I've got lying around. The Savage binds up when I try to run it really fast if I push forwards while pulling down on the bolt. The Nucleus requires at least a gentle push forwards on the bolt, so slamming it home while you pull it down only seems to make it faster.
Also mentioned by a couple others, but I really do like the bolt knob on it (which is the same as the Mausingfield). It's honestly perfectly shaped to get a really good grip on it with your index finger and thumb. It's also a great shape if you like to just lift the bolt with your extended index finger, since the finger sits right in the little groove in that case. I think the bolt knob is honestly one of my favorite parts, if not my favorite part, of the action just because it feels really nice in the hand to me compared to everything else I've felt.
EDIT: I think I also figured out the binding issue at the back of the bolt cycle that was present in some of the Nucleus videos out. When I take the bolt out and replace it, I get binding at the back of the bolt's cycle if I only turn the bolt stop when the bolt is all the way forwards. You need to hold the bolt just barely past the bolt stop to turn it all the way. I didn't experience binding at the back of the bolt's cycle when I made sure the bolt stop was fully rotated after re-inserting the bolt.