Nucleus Orders

#651
Here is the scoop on actions. We have a large batch of actions and components nearing completion. This will include all configurations, rights and lefts in short and longs. They still need to be coated which is something we send out. Delivery will really depend on how fast the vendor can turn them. We have been getting pretty quick turn around but that can vary. We are still hoping for some time in the first half of August.

Cheers
 
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#652
CSAR FE said:
I don’t know about you guys, but my bolt would bind up really bad once the bolt head started entering the forward portion of the action (about an inch out of battery). It eventually smoothed out, but it took a significant amount of force to fully cycle the action for the first 100 or so cycles. The best way to describe it is it felt like there was a stuck case. Anybody else have this happen?
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Absolutely not
 
#657
Jon_ARC said:
Here is the scoop on actions. We have a large batch of actions and components nearing completion. This will include all configurations, rights and lefts in short and longs. They still need to be coated which is something we send out. Delivery will really depend on how fast the vendor can turn them. We have been getting pretty quick turn around but that can vary. We are still hoping for some time in the first half of August.

Cheers
Click to expand...
this include 223 bolt face actions also?
 
#664
Another question as I have just received my Nucleus receiver from ARC and barrel from PVA. I have a shouldered barrel from PVA and ordered the shouldered bar-loc from ARC. These should both be 100% compatible correct? Forgive me if this is a basic question, but this will be the first bolt action that I'm assembling without the assistance of a gun smith and want to make sure. Thanks in advance!
 
#665
Archangel01 said:
Ok guys I've got a question i think many others will be asking very soon as well. What are our options for a bore guide on these guys? as my components are showing up, i had to clean another rifle and this hit me i'm going to need one.
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I was wondering the same thing about the John Hancock. I’ve been looking at them, but had no idea what to order.
 
#666
stereo.pete said:
Another question as I have just received my Nucleus receiver from ARC and barrel from PVA. I have a shouldered barrel from PVA and ordered the shouldered bar-loc from ARC. These should both be 100% compatible correct? Forgive me if this is a basic question, but this will be the first bolt action that I'm assembling without the assistance of a gun smith and want to make sure. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

If you bought it through the initial group buy back in the winter, then it is not Barloc compatible. You'll need an action wrench and a barrel vice. Check with PVA to confirm to be sure as to which barrel you got.
 
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#669
Ericsl2 said:
Out of curiosity why even use a bore guide? I've got a carbon fiber cleaning rod and use brass jags. Is there some way I could damage my barrel?
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Keeps solvents, grit, and junk from getting in the action. Also helps keep rod and brush or jag centered. I’ve talked to a few guys (LR match shooters) that only push their jag or brush out the barrel and never drag a brush/jag back through in attempt to protect the crown and not drag any garbage back into the barrel. I’ve started using whipeout in this fashion with nice results and less clean time. Dragging the dirty patch or brush with grit on it can unnecessarily contribute to wear on the crown. I never considered this in the past but after talking with these guys it made sense. All depends on how often you clean also I guess. Keeping those lands nice and sharp on the crown is imperative.
 
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#671
verdugo60 said:
Has anyone put a Nucleus WITH the Barloc in a KRG Bravo? I'm wondering if the recoil lug area will fit all that in the chassis without modification?
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#673
verdugo60 said:
Sweet bro, thanks. Now that it's installed, to swap barrels would you have to remove the varied action from chassis?
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Probably not, though my scope may need to be removed due to the low rings. Your mileage may vary.
This is the wild ass guess of an amateur, but wouldn't doing that without removing the action mean the recoil lug isn't properly seated? I'm not sure. It's only two screws, so I'd probably take it out anyway, just to be sure.
 
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#674
One thing to note is that the .185" recoil lug is too thin to use with the MPA lug lock. Bit of disappointment with that since I really like the idea behind the lug lock.

I'm trying to get a larger lug lock made but MPA does not seem to be willing.
 
#675
lennyo3034 said:
One thing to note is that the .185" recoil lug is too thin to use with the MPA lug lock. Bit of disappointment with that since I really like the idea behind the lug lock.

I'm trying to get a larger lug lock made but MPA does not seem to be willing.
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I had an MPA that I was going to use for this, but sold it off for a whiskey 3. I don't understand the point of the lug lock. I've never had an action slide forward - has anyone else?
 
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#676
Winny94 said:
I had an MPA that I was going to use for this, but sold it off for a whiskey 3. I don't understand the point of the lug lock. I've never had an action slide forward - has anyone else?
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I think the lug lock system is superior to just action screws. You are now applying mechanical clamping force from 2 axis instead of 1.

It was actually a main selling point for me. If I get the time, I will drill/tap some steel barstock to make a larger one.
 
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#677
lennyo3034 said:
I think the lug lock system is superior to just action screws. You are now applying mechanical clamping force from 2 axis instead of 1.

It was actually a main selling point for me. If I get the time, I will drill/tap some steel barstock to make a larger one.
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If it's a recent MPA chassis they apparently have been sending out a 0.437" diameter barrel in the kit as well, which works with the 0.185" lugs. See the comments here: youtube link

My MPA Competitions both came with (three?) different lug barrels for the lug lock component.
 
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#681
character0 said:
Maybe it's only two. I didn't look too hard at it. I'm waiting on the barrel still so I haven't finished out the build yet. Throw them in a caliper to get a good idea of their diameter and you should be set. One of them should be the 0.437" for the 0.185" lug.
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Mine had 3 and none fit the Nucleus nut
 
#683
I know there is a great amount of interest from people wanting to remove barrel without removing action from stock/chassis.....while conceivably possible in theory....in practice I couldn’t get enough purchase on the barrel nut with the tool to tighten or loosen properly. This was with a Manners PRS1.

I could really care less as my HawkHill savage prefit in 6.5x47 is hammering clover leafs with factory Lapua ammunition. So good that with the volume I’m currently shooting I won’t need to work up a load anytime soon.
 
#695
Hi all. This is Ted from American Rifle Company. Here are a couple of things I want everyone to know about the Nucleus.

We have had a couple of reports of light strikes. The Nucleus ships with a 16 pound firing pin spring. This worked rather well during testing and it provides for a really easy bolt lift. CCI #34 and #41 primers were used during testing because they are less sensitive than most, if not all, other primers. If you experience light strikes, we also offer 19 pound springs. These can be ordered on our web site either now or later today or tomorrow. Please try running the action with the 16 pound spring first. Additionally, do not grease or oil any part of the firing pin. Run it dry. Shearing viscous fluids requires energy that can only be provided by the compressed spring. Greasing the cocking cam at the back of the bolt is OK and I advise you to do so. Greasing the load bearing surfaces of the bolt lugs is also OK and advisable.

I am also aware of two reports of resistance during bolt cycling. This is the result of extractors rubbing against the inner walls of the receiver. I have since made some slight modifications to the extractor design to resolve the issue. If you encounter this problem, send either your extractor or your entire bolt assembly to us and we will replace your extractor. If you have not encountered this issue, then you don't need to concern yourself with it. The new extractors are functionally equivalent to the old ones and only provide additional clearance between its outer surfaces and the receiver.

In regards to order fulfillment, Jon has already commented on this but I will do so here as well. In the coming days, another 200 or so people will be notified for final payment and FFL. We hope to have all orders placed during the month of January fulfilled within the next four months, maybe sooner.

Things are now going well and getting to this point has taken a tremendous effort. I sincerely thank you all of your business and your support. I am pleased with the customer feedback that we have received thus far and I think that the Nucleus will satisfy nearly everyone. Also, please understand that we are a small company with limited customer service resources. Calling us with questions about the status of your order will only delay delivery. Someday, I hope to be able to provide customers with that information but for now, making actions keeps us really busy.

Again, thanks for the business . You are greatly appreciated.

Ted
 
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#696
In efforts to keep Ted with his eye on the prize in getting everyone their actions and not worried about shipping out a bunch of extractors, its an easy fix you can do right at home.

Remove your extractor from the bolt, lay some 600 grit sand paper down on a table. Spray the sand paper with Rem oil or the like, hold the extractor by the lug on the inside, and sand the extractor back and forth on the oil for a minute or less. Then do the same process with some 2000 grit sand paper to finish the polish. Clean it off, re-install, and the bolt is slicker than eel shit. I literally tried to bind the bolt by pushing it to the 1 o'clock position against the extractor and I could still easily push the bolt forward without binding. I cant get it to bind. This action has the potential of being a complete game changer. I see 0 downsides to this action. Bolt lift is light, stroke is as smooth as a dolphin's chest, and it is damn near impossible for it not to extract and especially eject. Someone try to change my mind...
 
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