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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

While looking for a RDS mount for my Spuhr, I noticed something fishy on the Spuhr site.... is it me or is he looking through a scope with the lens cap still closed?

It does look that way. However, the cap looks like a Butler Creek, some of which are the clear plastic see-through variety. Except for the shitty overall quality that is Butler Creek, those are nice for hunting. They allow you to take an unexpected quick shot if needed. However, if you're hunkered down and all snipe-y like that guy, you should probably have it flipped up so that your image is rendered by your multi-thousand dollar scope and not a 2 dollar Chinese chunk of plastic. It's still fishy to me...
 
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It does look that way. However, the cap looks like a Butler Creek, some of which are the clear plastic see-through variety. Except for the shitty overall quality that is Butler Creek, those are nice for hunting. They allow you to take an unexpected quick shot if needed. However, if you're hunkered down and all snipe-y like that guy, you should probably have it flipped up so that your image is rendered by your multi-thousand dollar scope and not a 2 dollar Chinese chunk of plastic. It's still fishy to me...


So I got educated by Spuhr. Very cool, my follow up was inquiring on the brand and where to get them.

"Thank you for your email. The picture is from a military training exercise and is not a picture staged by us. That said, you are correct in that the rear lens cover is closed. It might be worth noting that the lens covers issued with the Swedish PSG 90B sniper rifles (as seen in the picture with the sniper from Södra skånska regementet P7) are see-through, even though it’s obviously not optimal to have even a see-through lens cover closed when aiming, but I do not know if he was aiming or just observing (or mocking it up for the camera) when the picture was taken.

Yours sincerely,


Sören Franson"
 
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Well since I couldn't find a good deal on a 22" 6.5cm barrel, I think I'm going to go with the 18" barrel and get a covert handguard. I was looking at ES Tac's 22.5 kit, the below graph says I'll lose about 100fps muzzle velocity. Am I going to notice that, any idea on max range I could get out of the 18" barrel?


1542753249113.png


Also, what the two would look like... Not much difference in length, but I could get a shorter 308 or 556/223 barrel in the future for plinking.

1542754221523.png
 
Well since I couldn't find a good deal on a 22" 6.5cm barrel, I think I'm going to go with the 18" barrel and get a covert handguard. I was looking at ES Tac's 22.5 kit, the below graph says I'll lose about 100fps muzzle velocity. Am I going to notice that, any idea on max range I could get out of the 18" barrel?


View attachment 6973552

Also, what the two would look like... Not much difference in length, but I could get a shorter 308 or 556/223 barrel in the future for plinking.

View attachment 6973554


I have a few 260 barrels which is pretty similar ballistics. I have a 17" barrel for my desert tech and it runs a little over 2500 fps with 42 grains of h4350 and a 142 smk. That same load in my 26" 260 is running 2825. I don't recall for sure on my 123 amax load but I'm wanting to say with 4064 I only saw about 200 fps difference between the two.
 
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Has anyone had to deal w/ DT customer service? My mag release on the right side won't release on my new SRS and I can't get a hold of anyone there. Are they on vacation?

I've tried several times to get a hold of sales to buy a tool to remove the handguard on my A1 and have yet to get someone to answer the phone. I guess it's not just me.
 
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since im not having much luck w/ DT directly, has anyone had any issues w/ the right side mag release (the "ambi" lever). Its like there isnt enough travel and it wont release the mag. When pushing the button side release, there is plenty articulation on the ambi lever.
 
took about an hour with the jeweler file, but got the trigger adjusted, and it made an absolute world of diference. Still not a TT Diamond, but definitely not a hindrance now.

I put a thin coat of oil over the bare metal, but did anyone do any more than that? Also, the loctite appilicator isnt the most precise, so i had to use a toothpick to get it around the rim of the screw - has any tried using a shorter set screw as a lock for the creep screw? im not seeing any downside and just a little more assurance it wont back out and change the pull.


You guys doing the Orkan mod, be aware that by filing the safety shoe, it allows you to adjust the sear engagement so low as to be unsafe, immediately or over time. I got mine to 24 oz and zero creep only to tighten it up a thousand rounds later as the parts wore and smoothed out. It was disengaging the sear by closing the bolt by then. The rifle is designed the way it is designed for a reason. I think it needs to have a bit of creep to be safe in the long run. Same thing happened with my HTI. 500 shots later, my mod, which would take a hard drop on the butt with no firing, was firing with the bolt closing, or was not even engaging the sear with bolt cycling. YMMV.
 
DT really needs to step up their game. You can't fail to answer the phone and generally be unreliable and not take care of folks' problems selling rifles at this cost point. There should NEVER be a problem getting a hold of ANY department there - sales, warranty, etc. Answer on the second stinking ring, or hire more folks and figure out how to retain employees. I don't care what's going on with the MDR, they have an existing base to support, and they need to get their act together big time and manage that company properly.
 
DT really needs to step up their game. You can't fail to answer the phone and generally be unreliable and not take care of folks' problems selling rifles at this cost point. There should NEVER be a problem getting a hold of ANY department there - sales, warranty, etc. Answer on the second stinking ring, or hire more folks and figure out how to retain employees. I don't care what's going on with the MDR, they have an existing base to support, and they need to get their act together big time and manage that company properly.

I am really considering selling at least one of my desert techs if not both for this reason. I like the gun but if I have a hard time getting them to answer the phone to buy something small, I can only imagine the level of service I will get when I have a problem. I don't know how many warranty people they have went through since I bought my first rifle but a few have come and gone.
 
Any you guys shooting 6.5x47 barrels having any feeding issues?

I've had feeding issues during PRS matches when running the bolt quick. I generally attribute it to one of my mags and improper bolt manipulation on my part, not the caliber. I can run my 6.5x47 pretty hard, but I find that the faster I work the bolt the higher the likelihood of having a miss-feed or knocking the ejecting brass back into the action, both really kill a stage.
 
I've had feeding issues during PRS matches when running the bolt quick. I generally attribute it to one of my mags and improper bolt manipulation on my part, not the caliber. I can run my 6.5x47 pretty hard, but I find that the faster I work the bolt the higher the likelihood of having a miss-feed or knocking the ejecting brass back into the action, both really kill a stage.

Thanks for your input. I will using this barrel just for hunting so that shouldn’t be an issue for me.
 
Thanks for your input. I will using this barrel just for hunting so that shouldn’t be an issue for me.

When you say feeding issues, what are you experiencing? Have you chamfered and polished your mags feed lips, it helps ALOT and that precious Lapua brass doesn't get (as many) gouges.
 
When you say feeding issues, what are you experiencing? Have you chamfered and polished your mags feed lips, it helps ALOT and that precious Lapua brass doesn't get (as many) gouges.

I don’t have the barrel yet, I just heard there were issues with the DT feeding x47 ammo. Your info was what I was looking for. I spoke with DT and they say it feeds with no issues, so before I let go of $1200 just wanting get more of you guys opinions and what the issues were.
 
I don’t have the barrel yet, I just heard there were issues with the DT feeding x47 ammo. Your info was what I was looking for. I spoke with DT and they say it feeds with no issues, so before I let go of $1200 just wanting get more of you guys opinions and what the issues were.

I know that short mag cases have more issues, you shouldn't have any issue with the 6.5x47. My factory DT barrel is a laser and holds 0.5moa. The twist is 1 in 8.5" for the factory barrel so it prefers 130gr bullets.
Look at ES tactical for lower price point barrels:
ES-Tactical-Desert-Tech-SRS-Conversions-p117296585
In the other direction, my Short Action Custom Barrels are even more accurate than my factory barrel, but they are $$$$!

Best of luck!
 
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I know that short mag cases have more issues, you shouldn't have any issue with the 6.5x47. My factory DT barrel is a laser and holds 0.5moa. The twist is 1 in 8.5" for the factory barrel so it prefers 130gr bullets.
Look at ES tactical for lower price point barrels:
ES-Tactical-Desert-Tech-SRS-Conversions-p117296585
In the other direction, my Short Action Custom Barrels are even more accurate than my factory barrel, but they are $$$$!

Best of luck!
Thanks Elvis, I’m going to try a 16.5” barrel suppressed with 130g with Varget. Hopefully I’ll get at least 2600fps out of it. Just think it will make a handy whitetail gun.
 
Yes, but not for a reason, except it is simply a 0 MOA rail. The end user can decide if his/her needs/range and particular scope require additional elevation. A 20 MOA rail would be nice for sure and is standard on AI's and even the RPR. DT's are awesome weapons but the 0 MOA rail seems a bit dated for their purpose and ability. All IMHO.
 
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I too am looking at the6.5x47 not as a hunting round but for the accuracy. From the research that I have done from Zak Smith and others the 6.5 creed 260 6.5x47 are all right there with the 47 just bumping the other two. The distances I will mostly be shooting are 100 to 350. May be able to get 800 from time to time. Anyone see a problem or can make a better selection.
 
I too am looking at the6.5x47 not as a hunting round but for the accuracy. From the research that I have done from Zak Smith and others the 6.5 creed 260 6.5x47 are all right there with the 47 just bumping the other two. The distances I will mostly be shooting are 100 to 350. May be able to get 800 from time to time. Anyone see a problem or can make a better selection.

All three of those 6.5mm's will be accurate and for 100-350yrds it's a chip shot. The 6.5x47 is a very efficient cartridge and has large accuracy nodes so you don't have to chase 0.1grns or 0.001" bullet depths. The x47 used have the edge with brass, but now that the 6.5CM has brass made by pretty much everyone you can get the best brass and in Small Rifle Primer if you believe it is the key.
Frankly, if you are only consistently shooting 100-350 just get a 6.5 Creedmoor. Ammo is less expensive than .308, there is lots of availability and variety, and it is all "match" grade to some extent. If you wish to hand load you can find brass and it is scalable in quality.
The 6.5x47L is a great little cartridge but each piece of brass is $1.15-$1.30/pc since it is Lapua, and off the shelf the ammo is $2.50/rnd. Just so you know what you are getting yourself into.
 
Yes, but not for a reason, except it is simply a 0 MOA rail. The end user can decide if his/her needs/range and particular scope require additional elevation. A 20 MOA rail would be nice for sure and is standard on AI's and even the RPR. DT's are awesome weapons but the 0 MOA rail seems a bit dated for their purpose and ability. All IMHO.

I agree 100% especially on the HTI. Even a 30 or 40 MOA rail should be standard.
 

My question is if one feeds better than the other in the DT platform? Do 130g or 147g make any difference in feeding?
 
I haven't tried a 6.5x47, though in my rifle, I felt the 260 fed slightly better than the 6.5 Creed. Though that could be all in my head. I like the 260 better since I have been shooting it since I got a Remington Model 7 in 260 back in 1997.
 
A few more newb questions.
1) Does anyone use the bolt stop on short action cartridges?
2) What's the trick to not knock spent brass back into the channel? I'm starting to get pretty comfortable with the bolt throw, but I had 2 instances today where the spent case fell back in and jammed it up
3)Anyone try the hoptic saddle blanket? Thoughts? Shooting in 20 degree temps, that hard plastic cheek rest got a bit frigid haha4
4) looking at putting in an order from the member here who makes barrel cases - anyone have a 30" tube w/ either a area419 sidewinder or PVA Shockwave brake? What is the OAL length.
 
A few more newb questions.
1) Does anyone use the bolt stop on short action cartridges?
2) What's the trick to not knock spent brass back into the channel? I'm starting to get pretty comfortable with the bolt throw, but I had 2 instances today where the spent case fell back in and jammed it up
3)Anyone try the hoptic saddle blanket? Thoughts? Shooting in 20 degree temps, that hard plastic cheek rest got a bit frigid haha4
4) looking at putting in an order from the member here who makes barrel cases - anyone have a 30" tube w/ either a area419 sidewinder or PVA Shockwave brake? What is the OAL length.


1) No, not in a long time. Just like the barrel lock, haven't used that either and some custom barrels don't have the cutout for the lock.
2) I have that from time to time. Seems like I dont have that issue with my .540 bolt but do with the .470 bolt from time to time. I have thought about swapping bolt heads to see if that changes things on the extraction but haven't been that worried about it yet.
3) Hell yeah, see post #9939. Hoptics are worth every penny, and they were even cheaper between Friday and yesterday. Everyone should have a set on their SRS.
4) Softcock makes great cases. I have the dual barrel case and its great, even has bolt/mag pouches and a carry handle on it. Make sure you order it a little long, so if you have a 30" barrel with a brake, Area 419's website says the Sidewinder (larger version) brake adds 2.75" to the barrel, so you are right at 33". I would order a 35" - 36" bag. I have mostly barrels mostly under 28" and my bag is 31" long and is just right.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/barrel-bags-bolt-bags.6384253/
 
I just recently picked up my SRS-A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation on bipods. I really plan on using the rifle for target shooting and maybe eventually some PRS matches. I am in the process of getting a USO B-25 for it.