Just over 21lbs.
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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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What length is your 6.5? For a 30" tube, that 300NM still looks pretty damn manuverable (other than the weight haha)
My 6.5 barrel is 27".
Ya, that's what makes this platform so awesome, overall length is still only 43" with a 29" barrel and sidewinder MB. Call me crazy, but I like the extra weight. I use a gunslinger 2 pack and have it riding super high on my back and its actually prettymaneuverable.
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I am also on the fence with 300nm. Largest cal I have shot to this point is 6.5 Creedmoor. Would like to use with my TBAC U7 supressor. .300winmag seemed like a logical next step as I just started reloading and there is affordable factory ammo while I build my loading skills. Plus, does not seem like I will be overwhelmed by the increase in blast and recoil with the win Mag. However, it seems like I will regret not going with the “new technology” of the Norma Mag. I shoot steel and have the ability to go out to 2000yds 3 or 4 times a year. Does WinMag lose that much to the NM.? Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Selecting the contour in the description will now link you to the print for the profile.
It looks like the discount code ended itself today instead of tomorrow. We are going to extend it one more day because of the confusion.
I just shot my MDR for the first time today. All is well EXCEPT the trigger! I have never pulled a worse trigger. Does anyone know if DT is going to acknowledge this issue or if there are any aftermarket triggers available? I would also be curious what others think about the trigger? I think with a real trigger these would shoot 1 MOA at 100 yards all day long!
There is an MDR thread that covers all sorts of stuff on the rifles. As you noted the trigger is one of the features that is a failure pretty much universally.
Frank
Frank
Refreshed my Covert in desert digital yesterday. Turned out pretty well.
It’s got the factory 308 barrel installed (still need to Cerakote the other barrels to match) along with the TT525P, TBAC 338BA/Ultra and Atlas.
It’s got the factory 308 barrel installed (still need to Cerakote the other barrels to match) along with the TT525P, TBAC 338BA/Ultra and Atlas.
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If I remember correctly it smoothed out within a few hundred rounds including dry firing. Run the bolt rapidly, and it will be smoother, I've put nearly 2800 round through my SRS so far and the action is still not the smoothest if I do slow bolt manipulation.
If you search Primal Rights trigger modification on this thread you'll find an instruction to take out all pre-travel and can reduce trigger weight. Just becareful not to remove too much material at one time, do it very gradually, constantly checking sear and safety engagement.
Thanks for the heads up - is this the guide you are referring to?
https://forums.gunhive.com/topic/97/official-desert-tech-srs-hti-covert-mdr-thread
Is anyone who has both handguards actually switching them back and forth? Or do most guys just run the covert handguard regardless of barrel length?
Has anyone done anything as far as attaching the SRS handguard to the covert handguard to extend it? Would certainly be nice if there was an easy on / easy off for an extension. Or is the BipodeXT the simpler answer?
Has anyone done anything as far as attaching the SRS handguard to the covert handguard to extend it? Would certainly be nice if there was an easy on / easy off for an extension. Or is the BipodeXT the simpler answer?
Why would you want an extended handguard? The covert is long enough unless you want to run piggyback type scope accessories. Added length for bipod mounting is a waste of time and energy. I saw my original SRS handguard the other day though I can't recall where.....don't really care. Haven't used it since I swapped for the covert length.
Frank
Frank
To play devils advocate, is there a downside of running the longer rail if you don't have a sub 22" barrel? Weight savings is negligible and the further out you can run a bipod, the more stable it is.
Has anyone on here done this mod? Any photos showing where you removed material on the tang? Just wondering if you file it off at an angle, flush, a notch, etc.
I did this mod 2-3 weeks ago. I don't have any pictures. First, I engaged the safety several times before doing anything else. I wanted to have a clear idea of what the safety engagement should still feel like when I'm done. After actuating the safety several times I adjusted the creep per Orkan. Where the trigger self fires then back the creep off per whatever turn he stated (I can't recall what he stated). I then took the skins off and so I could see the trigger/safety assembly. You'll be able to see where the trigger is interfering with the safety tang from sliding over the trigger. I made a mark on the safety tang indicating each side of the trigger. Basically made a mark indicating how wide I needed to make a groove in the safety tang to accommodate the trigger. I then used a jewel style file and began to make a slot in the safety tang. I checked repeatedly to ensure I removed the "right" amount of material. I removed enough material to get the safety to engage like it did prior to filing the safety tang. Do check to ensure the safety does not allow the rifle to be fired. If you remove too much material the trigger may still be able to fire. When done properly the trigger is awesome. I was a little skeptical at first, but it makes a huuuuge difference as far as creep is concerned. My trigger now has no discernible creep unlike before the mod.
Yes, the downside is you limit the shorter end of the barrel lengths you can use. A lot of us are using sub 20" barrels.
Extending the bipod out further does not make it more stable. It does change the ratio of the movement of the muzzle in relation to the butt and thats it. As long as the rifle isn't tipping over on the muzzle your bipod is fine. I have on occasion run my 32" 338 Lapua mag barrel with my bipod set at the rear limit on the handguard due to space in the shooting spot. The handguard and barrel hang out of a window while the bipod is inside and yet my group sizes are the same, rifle works the same and no issues with balance.
As with all things, your mileage may vary and perhaps you think long handguards are sexy or something. To each his own. I ran my rifle with the long handguard for a few years before there were coverts and now that I've got the shorty handguard the biggest issue is being able to use short barrels. I can't see any other changes in operation.
Frank
Stable: (of an object or structure) not likely to give way or overturn; firmly fixed.
Moving the bipod farther out absolutely makes it more stable. Minute adjustments of the rear bag or rear support will have a larger effect on the muzzle if the bipod is closer to the axis. The same applies if the bipod feet have a wider stance and the bipods apex is above the bore, it will render greater stability.
Moving the bipod farther out absolutely makes it more stable. Minute adjustments of the rear bag or rear support will have a larger effect on the muzzle if the bipod is closer to the axis. The same applies if the bipod feet have a wider stance and the bipods apex is above the bore, it will render greater stability.
Don’t quote me, but I’m pretty sure about 9,000 pages back Nick Young suggested running the bipod closer to the rifle (helped mitigate bipod hop).
As well, if your argument had validity long barrels would be frowned upon. Any time you increased your barrel length, you would have to incrementally extend your bipod mounting location.
Proper fundamentals mitigates bipod hop.
This isnt theory, you reduce a significant amount of stability having the bipods closer to the axis. Youre creating a tripod with the bipods and rear support (3 points of contact that will always create a plane). With respect to the height of the tripod, the closer the 3 points of contact are together, the greater the instability. Now, in regards to the rifles stability, we are talking about stability of the x-axis (fore and aft). Since the the rear of the rifle is the only part of the rifle thats going to be moving vertically from breathing and any adjustments to the rear support, this makes the bipod the center axis , where the rifle is going to rotate on the x-axis around that fixed point.
I can keep giving you examples about how widening the foot print will increase stability, however, try this in a real world situation. Find a regular forend, mount the bipods as far out as you can, using the monopod, rotate the thumb wheel 360*, while looking through the scope preferably while on target, and note much vertical deviation there is using the reticle. Now do the same thing but with the bipod mounted as far back as you can. Ive shot this way, its very possible but small adjustments to my rear bag were magnified compared to the normal bipod mounting distance. I had to be even more precise and attentive to my adjustments.
Why would longer barrels be frowned upon? If you had bipods mounted at the magazine on a traditional rifle, sure, the heavier and longer barrels might make the rifle tip forward, however the only people using those lengths and contours (1.350 straight 30"-32") are ELR shooters, and note the bipod location.
This isnt theory, you reduce a significant amount of stability having the bipods closer to the axis. Youre creating a tripod with the bipods and rear support (3 points of contact that will always create a plane). With respect to the height of the tripod, the closer the 3 points of contact are together, the greater the instability. Now, in regards to the rifles stability, we are talking about stability of the x-axis (fore and aft). Since the the rear of the rifle is the only part of the rifle thats going to be moving vertically from breathing and any adjustments to the rear support, this makes the bipod the center axis , where the rifle is going to rotate on the x-axis around that fixed point.
I can keep giving you examples about how widening the foot print will increase stability, however, try this in a real world situation. Find a regular forend, mount the bipods as far out as you can, using the monopod, rotate the thumb wheel 360*, while looking through the scope preferably while on target, and note much vertical deviation there is using the reticle. Now do the same thing but with the bipod mounted as far back as you can. Ive shot this way, its very possible but small adjustments to my rear bag were magnified compared to the normal bipod mounting distance. I had to be even more precise and attentive to my adjustments.
Why would longer barrels be frowned upon? If you had bipods mounted at the magazine on a traditional rifle, sure, the heavier and longer barrels might make the rifle tip forward, however the only people using those lengths and contours (1.350 straight 30"-32") are ELR shooters, and note the bipod location.
As you say, it will increase stability in theory and like making trucks 40 feet wide to prevent rollovers it is possible. The reality is that it is unnecessary and there is a point of diminishing returns. I could see that as recoil goes up moving things to wider stance might make it worth while but for simple shoulder rifles its a waste to go too far. I see guys shooting with small bipods mounted very close to the CG who shoot fantastic groups and others who mount their rifles on wide body landing gear who do the same. Which is better? You can choose for yourself. I see no need for an extended bipod on any of the cals I shoot in my SRS....338 LM included.
Frank
Frank
On a flat surface or grid, tie a string from a target point out to 12" and mark that point. Now, in a direct line on that string, mark another point that is 24 inches from the target. Move both of the points 1 inch from center and see how much the angle changes/impacts the 12" to 24" mark in comparison. This is my best explanation of mils/moa and angular measure and how having a bipod further out minimizes angular error. And, stability is proven with a wider stance in everything I've studied. JMHO.
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took about an hour with the jeweler file, but got the trigger adjusted, and it made an absolute world of diference. Still not a TT Diamond, but definitely not a hindrance now.
I put a thin coat of oil over the bare metal, but did anyone do any more than that? Also, the loctite appilicator isnt the most precise, so i had to use a toothpick to get it around the rim of the screw - has any tried using a shorter set screw as a lock for the creep screw? im not seeing any downside and just a little more assurance it wont back out and change the pull.
I put frog lube on my safety tang. No idea if it's better than oil. I just used a drop of loctite as per Desert Tech.
Huge sale on our SRS Combo Package! Desert Tech is giving the best discounts I've seen and we are passing the savingings in to you. $3895 for a complete rifle using one of our conversions. Price is good through the end of the month.
https://www.es-tactical.com/store1/Desert-Tech-SRS-Combo-Package-p121861585
https://www.es-tactical.com/store1/Desert-Tech-SRS-Combo-Package-p121861585
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And the HTI combo package is $5750 using one of our conversions.
https://www.es-tactical.com/store1/Desert-Tech-HTI-Combo-Package-p121463071
https://www.es-tactical.com/store1/Desert-Tech-HTI-Combo-Package-p121463071
It’s a little chilly and snowy, but I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else right now.
Also, anyone know of a black friday deal for a 22" 6.5cm barrel? Why does DT not offer 6.5cm in 22"???
