Just over 21lbs.This requires pictures!
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Create a channel Learn moreJust over 21lbs.This requires pictures!
What length is your 6.5? For a 30" tube, that 300NM still looks pretty damn manuverable (other than the weight haha)I was on the fence with jumping into the 300 Norma game, but definitely glad I went with it.
My zero for the 6.5cm and 300nm are very close also. .3mils left and .1 up for the 6.5 barrel.
This DT platform is incredible!
Pull the trigger on the 300nm barrel, you'll be glad you did
My 6.5 barrel is 27".What length is your 6.5? For a 30" tube, that 300NM still looks pretty damn manuverable (other than the weight haha)
Does anyone have the specs on the ES Tactical contours? I tried finding the link they reference in the description, but no luck.
Selecting the contour in the description will now link you to the print for the profile.Does anyone have the specs on the ES Tactical contours? I tried finding the link they reference in the description, but no luck.
For those of you running multiple cartridges - what is in your stable?
Very nice!Refreshed my Covert in desert digital yesterday. Turned out pretty well.
It’s got the factory 308 barrel installed (still need to Cerakote the other barrels to match) along with the TT525P, TBAC 338BA/Ultra and Atlas.
If I remember correctly it smoothed out within a few hundred rounds including dry firing. Run the bolt rapidly, and it will be smoother, I've put nearly 2800 round through my SRS so far and the action is still not the smoothest if I do slow bolt manipulation.The bolt travel is a bit grittier than I expected - how long does it take to wear in?
Thanks for the heads up - is this the guide you are referring to?If I remember correctly it smoothed out within a few hundred rounds including dry firing. Run the bolt rapidly, and it will be smoother, I've put nearly 2800 round through my SRS so far and the action is still not the smoothest if I do slow bolt manipulation.
If you search Primal Rights trigger modification on this thread you'll find an instruction to take out all pre-travel and can reduce trigger weight. Just becareful not to remove too much material at one time, do it very gradually, constantly checking sear and safety engagement.
Yep that's it.Thanks for the heads up - is this the guide you are referring to?
https://forums.gunhive.com/topic/97/official-desert-tech-srs-hti-covert-mdr-thread
To play devils advocate, is there a downside of running the longer rail if you don't have a sub 22" barrel? Weight savings is negligible and the further out you can run a bipod, the more stable it is.Why would you want an extended handguard? The covert is long enough unless you want to run piggyback type scope accessories. Added length for bipod mounting is a waste of time and energy. I saw my original SRS handguard the other day though I can't recall where.....don't really care. Haven't used it since I swapped for the covert length.
Frank
Has anyone on here done this mod? Any photos showing where you removed material on the tang? Just wondering if you file it off at an angle, flush, a notch, etc.Yep that's it.
To play devils advocate, is there a downside of running the longer rail if you don't have a sub 22" barrel? Weight savings is negligible and the further out you can run a bipod, the more stable it is.
Is anyone who has both handguards actually switching them back and forth? Or do most guys just run the covert handguard regardless of barrel length?
Has anyone done anything as far as attaching the SRS handguard to the covert handguard to extend it? Would certainly be nice if there was an easy on / easy off for an extension. Or is the BipodeXT the simpler answer?
Stable: (of an object or structure) not likely to give way or overturn; firmly fixed.
Moving the bipod farther out absolutely makes it more stable. Minute adjustments of the rear bag or rear support will have a larger effect on the muzzle if the bipod is closer to the axis. The same applies if the bipod feet have a wider stance and the bipods apex is above the bore, it will render greater stability.
took about an hour with the jeweler file, but got the trigger adjusted, and it made an absolute world of diference. Still not a TT Diamond, but definitely not a hindrance now.I did this mod 2-3 weeks ago. I don't have any pictures. First, I engaged the safety several times before doing anything else. I wanted to have a clear idea of what the safety engagement should still feel like when I'm done. After actuating the safety several times I adjusted the creep per Orkan. Where the trigger self fires then back the creep off per whatever turn he stated (I can't recall what he stated). I then took the skins off and so I could see the trigger/safety assembly. You'll be able to see where the trigger is interfering with the safety tang from sliding over the trigger. I made a mark on the safety tang indicating each side of the trigger. Basically made a mark indicating how wide I needed to make a groove in the safety tang to accommodate the trigger. I then used a jewel style file and began to make a slot in the safety tang. I checked repeatedly to ensure I removed the "right" amount of material. I removed enough material to get the safety to engage like it did prior to filing the safety tang. Do check to ensure the safety does not allow the rifle to be fired. If you remove too much material the trigger may still be able to fire. When done properly the trigger is awesome. I was a little skeptical at first, but it makes a huuuuge difference as far as creep is concerned. My trigger now has no discernible creep unlike before the mod.
took about an hour with the jeweler file, but got the trigger adjusted, and it made an absolute world of diference. Still not a TT Diamond, but definitely not a hindrance now.
I put a thin coat of oil over the bare metal, but did anyone do any more than that? Also, the loctite appilicator isnt the most precise, so i had to use a toothpick to get it around the rim of the screw - has any tried using a shorter set screw as a lock for the creep screw? im not seeing any downside and just a little more assurance it wont back out and change the pull.
68" used to be then 70" for the bolts. Screws on top were 18-25"Anyone happen to know the torque specs for the original 4 screw/ring mount?
Nice picture! Looks like Nebraska!It’s a little chilly and snowy, but I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else right now.View attachment 6972184
Nice picture! Looks like Nebraska!