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Had the new DT SRS Covert out the other with the Bartlein 450 Bushmaster barrel.
Gun wasn’t consistently shooting. Could’ve been me (I suck) but normally I can shoot some good groups. This thing was shooting well but maybe within 4-5” at times throwing shots.
I was shooting Bear Creek Ballistics 459 bushmaster 240gr copper projectile moving at 2590fps (which is cooking for 450bm) I chrono’d mine at an average of 2515fps
Anyway I was using a Rugged Obsidian 45 silencer. After taking it home and cleaning it I noticed the front baffle was completely destroyed. Doesn’t look like a baffle strike to me but almost a pop can being crushed. Maybe that had to do with accuracy inconsistencies??
Then after further examining my brass. Every single primer is protruding out. I contacted the ammo manufacturer (Bear Creek Ballistics) and they seem to have never had these issues using a variety of different firearms.
He pointed out that the chamfer on the firing pin hole is extremely large. Thinking that maybe it’s out of spec or the chamber pressure is extruding the primer into the chamfer into the bolt face.
I have not shot the firearm with the 6.5cm barrel due to wanting to sight it in for gun season here in a few weeks. Planning on hitting the range in a few days and trying some factory Hornady 250gr ammo along with no silencer or maybe my VERS 458 can. Bullets were not keyholing. View attachment 7731114View attachment 7731115View attachment 7731118
Do they all have that big of a chamfer on the new A2 firing pin hole bolts?I‘d definitely shoot it without anything on the barrel with the same ammo to see what happens. the loads don’t look over pressure because the edges of the primer are rounded. Primer is just flowing into the chamfer. No idea why the new boly is like that.
I did not shoot any rounds without the can. I will this next time out. How do you check concentricity of threads? I just looked down the barrel with the can on and used a mccaster car steel rod as my suppressed alignment rod and it seems to line up fine. Wouldn’t it be odd to have a baffle strike on the first baffle but not the other ones further down the line?That's a baffle strike. Did you shoot any rounds without suppressor or check concentricity of threads?
Interesting. Anything can happen is right. Anxious to get this thing back out either Sunday or Monday and shoot some normal Hornady rounds and this high loaded stuff. See wtf is going on and if I can get it to shoot better than a shotgunI had a strike on only the 5nd baffle of a can with 15 baffles. Anything can happen. Mine was chocked up to an unstable round per the suppressor mfg
I’m not thinking they’re over pressured. Shot 3 rounds of hornady 250gr FTX factory loads. The primer is flowing into the chamfer on them as well slightly. Will get out next week to do some accuracy testing without a can onCan’t deny the OPs primers match the chamfer on the firing pin hole.
Check with Fred at Bison Tactical. I got mine from him on Black Friday a couple years back.Hoping to see some Black Friday or XMas sales on SRS chassis soon? I'm finally in the market for a new chassis to go along with my Gen 1
Travis over there at TS spun up a 338 barrel for me. Thing shoots awesome. And it didn't take forever either. Not cheap as you said.Thank you.....I'll take a look at TS Customs. I've also used SAC in the past and they do a very nice job, but they are on the pricey side.
On the cue of @deersniper I went over to check out Salmon River Solutions and got in contact with him about making an SRS for SRS rail. Sent him a chassis to work with today. We'll see what he turns out. I was sure to make it very clear we wanted Arca ALL the way back to the trigger guard in addition to a few other features that I would have liked to see.
Anything y'all want me to add as far as requests go before he gets to work?
what about if the plastic was cut in front of the trigger guard?I actually asked him to step it down. So, in theory, the rail rides close to the handguard the way to the plastic and then drops down to the chassis panel bottom, if that makes sense
also if the rail was cut to over lap the plastic where you cut the plasticwhat about if the plastic was cut in front of the trigger guard?
Yes that would be greatI actually asked him to step it down. So, in theory, the rail rides close to the handguard the way to the plastic and then drops down to the chassis panel bottom, if that makes sense
What length, there's a shop in Texas with the 22 and 16 in stockAnyone here selling at SRS 308 barrel? Gonna ask in the market as well.
I swaped the ejector spring out and all good now, but in combination that might be the trick.I keep seeing people complaining about weak ejection with short action cartridges.
Today I went to the range and forgot the SA bolt plug. Without it I'm having the best ejection I've ever had on the SRS.
So everyone may want to try and leave the plug out and see.
a lot of the weak ejection issues can come from shit strokes of the bolt, but yeah I will say that without the bolt stop it can help.I keep seeing people complaining about weak ejection with short action cartridges.
Today I went to the range and forgot the SA bolt plug. Without it I'm having the best ejection I've ever had on the SRS.
So everyone may want to try and leave the plug out and see.
The issues I have are usually the brass hitting my hand then back into the port so not having the stop and getting further back makes senseI have never had any ejection issues with any SA rounds, I've never used my bokt stop, so maybe that's why....
Let's see the broadhead... those bow hunters!View attachment 7745012Covert with factory 7 WSM on a gnarly whitetail last night. Topped with bushy LRHSi 4.5-18 at 140 yards with 175 ABLR. Darned deer ran 100 yards after I took out a lung! He also had a broadhead in his neck from recent times (based on wound still being open.) tough son of a gun. View attachment 7745011View attachment 7745010
Looks like it didn't expand... or is that just from the pic
you’re right- was closed when I dug it out. Although I think it hammered into that thick neck muscle and maybe even part of the vertebrae. Was pretty close to a spine shot.Looks like it didn't expand... or is that just from the pic
I never shoot mechanical here out west, always fixed... for that reason, but again I'm only hunting elk with a bowyou’re right- was closed when I dug it out. Although I think it hammered into that thick neck muscle and maybe even part of the vertebrae. Was pretty close to a spine shot.
Want a soft case/mat? Or solo soft caseThe zipper gave up the ghost on my precision rifle rifle bag/shooting mat. What soft case do you all use? Preferably I’d like to be able to fit my rifle in the case with the can still on. Rifle is a A2 Covert with a 20 inch barrel. Can is a Thunderchicken.
Soft case/mat would be fine. Also up for a solo soft case if it has a way to carry a mat on it.Want a soft case/mat? Or solo soft case
Look up “How to repair a zipper” on YouTube.The zipper gave up the ghost on my precision rifle rifle bag/shooting mat. What soft case do you all use? Preferably I’d like to be able to fit my rifle in the case with the can still on. Rifle is a A2 Covert with a 20 inch barrel. Can is a Thunderchicken.
If you search around on possibly YouTube there’s a torture test video where they charged a 338lm with varget and then pistol powder and fired it off. Idk if the pistol powder got the extractor but varget didn’t.So.... Has anyone overpressurized a round so badly to pop the extractor off? I didn't realize it just kind of sits in the bore.
Also, springs for the ejector, where is everyone getting them from? I really don't want to wait 4 months for desert tech.
You're thinking of primal rights. He's a good dude. I made a dumb mistake and was just wondering if I need to send my bolt in. It'll probably be fine, I'm just being cautious.If you search around on possibly YouTube there’s a torture test video where they charged a 338lm with varget and then pistol powder and fired it off. Idk if the pistol powder got the extractor but varget didn’t.
I pulled my ejector springs, measured and found some on Amazon or McMaster carr that matched up. I think I had to trim them just a little. I also trimmed a hex key and dropped inside the spring as a hard stop so that the ejector pin couldn’t go below flush with the bolt face and crush the springs. My early 300wm bolt was bad about it.