I‘d definitely shoot it without anything on the barrel with the same ammo to see what happens. the loads don’t look over pressure because the edges of the primer are rounded. Primer is just flowing into the chamfer. No idea why the new boly is like that.
Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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I‘d definitely shoot it without anything on the barrel with the same ammo to see what happens. the loads don’t look over pressure because the edges of the primer are rounded. Primer is just flowing into the chamfer. No idea why the new boly is like that.
Do they all have that big of a chamfer on the new A2 firing pin hole bolts?
I did not shoot any rounds without the can. I will this next time out. How do you check concentricity of threads? I just looked down the barrel with the can on and used a mccaster car steel rod as my suppressed alignment rod and it seems to line up fine. Wouldn’t it be odd to have a baffle strike on the first baffle but not the other ones further down the line?
Used my homemade mccaster card alignment rod which fits snugly in the 450 barrel. Looks lined up to me. I make sure every 1-2 shots max using direct thread to always check and make sure the can is secured tightly so I know it wasn’t loose on there.
Interesting. Anything can happen is right. Anxious to get this thing back out either Sunday or Monday and shoot some normal Hornady rounds and this high loaded stuff. See wtf is going on and if I can get it to shoot better than a shotgun
.452”vs .458” .45 Caliber? On the the baffle strike?
Surely the exit hole is .460” or better.
I don’t own any .45 caliber cans but my first muzzle brake (brake: as in “stopping” recoil) split on the first Federal Gold Medal Match 168 Sierra HPBT factory round fired from my Ruger 77V .308 Winchester.
Turn out the exit hole was for a 7mm (.284”) projectile….Company installed another brake.
Can’t deny the OPs primers match the chamfer on the firing pin hole.
Surely the exit hole is .460” or better.
I don’t own any .45 caliber cans but my first muzzle brake (brake: as in “stopping” recoil) split on the first Federal Gold Medal Match 168 Sierra HPBT factory round fired from my Ruger 77V .308 Winchester.
Turn out the exit hole was for a 7mm (.284”) projectile….Company installed another brake.
Can’t deny the OPs primers match the chamfer on the firing pin hole.
Color Question
In most of the pictures I see online and even some YouTube videos of the A2 SRS, the FDE chassis looks much lighter in shade/color than the A1's before it. I had an A1 and the FDE color was exactly as FDE should be (in my opinion). Now they look like "airsoft gun tan" in the images that I see of the A2's.
First pic is an A2 that seems to have the lighter shade of FDE to my eyes. Second pic is an A1 image that looks just as my A1 did. Just curious if anyone knows if DT actually changed the FDE color?
Thanks!
In most of the pictures I see online and even some YouTube videos of the A2 SRS, the FDE chassis looks much lighter in shade/color than the A1's before it. I had an A1 and the FDE color was exactly as FDE should be (in my opinion). Now they look like "airsoft gun tan" in the images that I see of the A2's.
First pic is an A2 that seems to have the lighter shade of FDE to my eyes. Second pic is an A1 image that looks just as my A1 did. Just curious if anyone knows if DT actually changed the FDE color?
Thanks!
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I’m not thinking they’re over pressured. Shot 3 rounds of hornady 250gr FTX factory loads. The primer is flowing into the chamfer on them as well slightly. Will get out next week to do some accuracy testing without a can on
I'd check with DT as to why there is that chamfer on that bolt face - it is unusual, and manufacturing "irregularities" are well documented on these guns.
As to the baffle strike, I'd worry about instability of the copper solids and check length and twist.
As to the baffle strike, I'd worry about instability of the copper solids and check length and twist.
Hoping to see some Black Friday or XMas sales on SRS chassis soon? I'm finally in the market for a new chassis to go along with my Gen 1
My lapua size bolt also has that chamber around the fp hole. No big deal, just have to push primer out if you're checking fired headspace.
Check with Fred at Bison Tactical. I got mine from him on Black Friday a couple years back.
Hi guys,
I've got this in the EI thread as well, but anyone with an Elite Iron on an A2 what offset did you go with?
I've got this in the EI thread as well, but anyone with an Elite Iron on an A2 what offset did you go with?
Travis over there at TS spun up a 338 barrel for me. Thing shoots awesome. And it didn't take forever either. Not cheap as you said.
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On the cue of @deersniper I went over to check out Salmon River Solutions and got in contact with him about making an SRS for SRS rail. Sent him a chassis to work with today. We'll see what he turns out. I was sure to make it very clear we wanted Arca ALL the way back to the trigger guard in addition to a few other features that I would have liked to see.
Anything y'all want me to add as far as requests go before he gets to work?
Anything y'all want me to add as far as requests go before he gets to work?
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I think back to the plastic would be fine
Back to the trigger guard would cause a high bore over rail height
I think back to the plastic would be fine
Back to the trigger guard would cause a high bore over rail height
I actually asked him to step it down. So, in theory, the rail rides close to the handguard the way to the plastic and then drops down to the chassis panel bottom, if that makes sense
I swaped the ejector spring out and all good now, but in combination that might be the trick.
a lot of the weak ejection issues can come from shit strokes of the bolt, but yeah I will say that without the bolt stop it can help.
I have never had any ejection issues with any SA rounds, I've never used my bokt stop, so maybe that's why....
The issues I have are usually the brass hitting my hand then back into the port so not having the stop and getting further back makes sense
The SRS requires rapid bolt manipulation and proper bolt handling to have uninterrupted ejection. Not trying to talk down to anyone, however, gripping the bolt knob between the thumb and the index finger while making a fist and running the bolt fast and precise will avoid most ejection issues.
I noticed in a supported cross-legged sitting position, compressed to a lower than normal sitting position, my firing hand angles down and towards the chamber, blocking the ejection path, so I have to adjust my grip as I pull the bolt to the rear. But I rarely ever shoot in that compromising position, though it's worth noting. Once I figured that out, I haven't had any ejection issues with the bolt stop in place.
I noticed in a supported cross-legged sitting position, compressed to a lower than normal sitting position, my firing hand angles down and towards the chamber, blocking the ejection path, so I have to adjust my grip as I pull the bolt to the rear. But I rarely ever shoot in that compromising position, though it's worth noting. Once I figured that out, I haven't had any ejection issues with the bolt stop in place.
DT SRS A2 with a 32 inch 300 norma mag barrel for the 2021 (not guided) Public Land elk hunt in Colorado. Got me one 2 years in a row! A little on the heavy side with the long ass barrel and a very thick contour, but she got the job done at 745 yards.
TS Customs barrel, bughole groups. Used a mild load sending 210 bergers at 3,000 fps.
TS Customs barrel, bughole groups. Used a mild load sending 210 bergers at 3,000 fps.
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you’re right- was closed when I dug it out. Although I think it hammered into that thick neck muscle and maybe even part of the vertebrae. Was pretty close to a spine shot.
I never shoot mechanical here out west, always fixed... for that reason, but again I'm only hunting elk with a bow
The zipper gave up the ghost on my precision rifle rifle bag/shooting mat. What soft case do you all use? Preferably I’d like to be able to fit my rifle in the case with the can still on. Rifle is a A2 Covert with a 20 inch barrel. Can is a Thunderchicken.
Soft case/mat would be fine. Also up for a solo soft case if it has a way to carry a mat on it.
Look up “How to repair a zipper” on YouTube.
It likely just needs some loving from some pliers….
So.... Has anyone overpressurized a round so badly to pop the extractor off? I didn't realize it just kind of sits in the bore.
Also, springs for the ejector, where is everyone getting them from? I really don't want to wait 4 months for desert tech.
Also, springs for the ejector, where is everyone getting them from? I really don't want to wait 4 months for desert tech.
If you search around on possibly YouTube there’s a torture test video where they charged a 338lm with varget and then pistol powder and fired it off. Idk if the pistol powder got the extractor but varget didn’t.
I pulled my ejector springs, measured and found some on Amazon or McMaster carr that matched up. I think I had to trim them just a little. I also trimmed a hex key and dropped inside the spring as a hard stop so that the ejector pin couldn’t go below flush with the bolt face and crush the springs. My early 300wm bolt was bad about it.
You're thinking of primal rights. He's a good dude. I made a dumb mistake and was just wondering if I need to send my bolt in. It'll probably be fine, I'm just being cautious.
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I purchased two new short action magazines (10 rounders) and one is having a problem picking up 308 Winchester rounds (factory 168 SMK). The only way I'm getting it to feed correctly is by rocking the magazine forward. Have any of you experienced a similar issue and if so what was your fix?
So the nose is hitting below the feed ramp and binding up? I’ve had one or two do that. Just tweak the feed ramps open a hair so the nose of the round presents higher.
