Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Just pick a caliber you want and buy a barrel for it. What is are you achieving by trying some out, which caliber to get? What fills a void? looking back I don't need my 300WM because I have a 300 PRC, wouldn't get a .308 barrel because I have a 6.5 Creed. I wouldn't get a .338 Lapua because I have a .338 Norma AI.... And for fun I run the 6.5 SAUM to be the all around slayer...
Thanks to waveslayer, spamassassin and DoctorBen for your replies.

I can search the forum buy sell trade for DT SRS barrels and have done so.
I have .308 and 6.5 CM barrels already.

I also have a magnum bolt (Orkan) that I was thinking about trying out a barrel to fit.

7mm Rem Mag/.300 Win Mag or something along those lines(?).

I shoot 6.5 SAUM in a non DT platform now.

I was looking for a site that might have a variety of different calibers used barrels for sale in stock. Maybe there isn’t one…
 
Yesterdays first light set was 🔥. 22” 6mm creed. Still looking for a shorty 16.5 or 18” barrel in a varmint caliber to play with.
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...
I was looking for a site that might have a variety of different calibers used barrels for sale in stock. Maybe there isn’t one…
It's kind of a bit of an expensive niche gun. They're not super common so there's just not going to be the volume that you might have been expecting. That's not what you wanted to hear but it's true.
 
It's kind of a bit of an expensive niche gun. They're not super common so there's just not going to be the volume that you might have been expecting. That's not what you wanted to hear but it's true.
Come to think of it, I don’t even think there’s a website strictly for used savage barrels and those gotta be the most common.
 
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Rainbow over Newfoundland.
I’ll post it later, but respectable 8pt young Bull down Monday at 535yds. Clean heart shot while on the move.

Thoroughly recommend “Buck Lake Adventures”. Roger Sheppard is the man running the show.

Both me and bud tagged moose, out for bear with hurricane incoming.

No shortage of opportunities.
 
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Watched this one at a distance (mile) for an hour, and a smaller one, chasing a cow.

He started at 1200yds around a bog and started getting curious about our cow call. Took 20min to come from 1200 to 800 yds, then trees...

Came out the other side of the trees at 600 yds, Then started at a trot towards. I had a momentary window before he hit the woods again at 500yds and took a front quarter shot at 535 while he was trotting on in... not the ideal angle, but I could see vitals in my mental picture. Thought the bog would slow him down.

Took... 15 yds before he was down. Steps. We couldn't see the drop, and when I pulled the trigger it was literally under a second before he was in the woods and out of sight. Just a “now or never.”

Walked down the half mile or so, hit the bog, and found him piled up dead to the world!

Debated options. Only 200yds from gravel logging road, so skinned out for a euro mount, skinned for a blanket, and all the meat!!
 

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Got some dry fire in on the SRS last night. Turns out the “0”s on the spines of the wife’s fashion magazines at about 15 m are close to a 1/10 mil point of aim. It’s remarkably clear if you would have missed after the trigger press.View attachment 7910492View attachment 7910490
What app or device is this? I’d love to get something to improve my dry fire practice.
 
I whipped up this little guy for my A1 a while back and thought some might like to see it.

I dislike the bulky rail adaptors and this keeps my bore axis a little lower as well. Plus it was a fun project.

I turned some stainless round stock down to the appropriate diameter, made a shank and threaded it, then screwed it into the rail decently tight and marked the location of the flats. Remove, grind flats and drill the cross hole. Works fantastic.
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Turned and threaded

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Finished

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Agreed - I'm a big fan of over-bore bipods, especially on medium-heavy rifles. The basic mechanics alone make a lot more sense than an under-bore bipod if stability is your primary concern.
 
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I whipped up this little guy for my A1 a while back and thought some might like to see it.

I dislike the bulky rail adaptors and this keeps my bore axis a little lower as well. Plus it was a fun project.

I turned some stainless round stock down to the appropriate diameter, made a shank and threaded it, then screwed it into the rail decently tight and marked the location of the flats. Remove, grind flats and drill the cross hole. Works fantastic.
View attachment 7962042
Turned and threaded

View attachment 7962043
Finished

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Can also use this for people who don't have the means to make things
 
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Watched this one at a distance (mile) for an hour, and a smaller one, chasing a cow.

He started at 1200yds around a bog and started getting curious about our cow call. Took 20min to come from 1200 to 800 yds, then trees...

Came out the other side of the trees at 600 yds, Then started at a trot towards. I had a momentary window before he hit the woods again at 500yds and took a front quarter shot at 535 while he was trotting on in... not the ideal angle, but I could see vitals in my mental picture. Thought the bog would slow him down.

Took... 15 yds before he was down. Steps. We couldn't see the drop, and when I pulled the trigger it was literally under a second before he was in the woods and out of sight. Just a “now or never.”

Walked down the half mile or so, hit the bog, and found him piled up dead to the world!

Debated options. Only 200yds from gravel logging road, so skinned out for a euro mount, skinned for a blanket, and all the meat!!
What kind of moose is that? has to be the smallest moose I've ever seen with antlers, unless you are a giant!
 
What kind of moose is that? has to be the smallest moose I've ever seen with antlers, unless you are a giant!
6’0 230, just didn’t sit behind him.

Newfoundland.
Not big boys here, but lots of them.
Haven’t seen much past 2-3 days, but they’ve been bedded down. Hurricane coming.

800-900# gross (378# hanging weight from quarters and lions/strap. Left the whole thorax and gut pile for bears, and had the head and cape in camp).

Even the monster moose here are ~1000#.
But, comparatively cheap (6k for an outfitter) and easy to get to.

I’m doing Africa next year (send a PM if ya wanna come, seriously) and will plan after that.

Did a 327” Bull Elk outside of Kremmling CO last year at 725yds: can’t recall if you’re CO or UT.

Ya ever wanna do AK or Yukon, I’m in.
 
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6’0 230, just didn’t sit behind him.

Newfoundland.
Not big boys here, but lots of them.
Haven’t seen much past 2-3 days, but they’ve been bedded down. Hurricane coming.

800-900# gross (378# hanging weight from quarters and lions/strap. Left the whole thorax and gut pile for bears, and had the head and cape in camp).

Even the monster moose here are ~1000#.
But, comparatively cheap (6k for an outfitter) and easy to get to.

I’m doing Africa next year (send a PM if ya wanna come, seriously) and will plan after that.

Did a 327” Bull Elk outside of Kremmling CO last year at 725yds: can’t recall if you’re CO or UT.

Ya ever wanna do AK or Yukon, I’m in.
Shit man, you're living way too large for me!! I can barely afford to hunt neighboring states much less Alaska or Africa!!:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
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I had a moment of weakness and bought a M2. I’d like to get an extra set of skins to play with if anyone has a set. I’m new to DT so I’m not sure what version fits and doesn’t fit. Im guessing there are differences between a1/a2.
You misspelled wisdom as weakness. It's ok but you might want to tweak your auto-correct settings.
 
Tried searching but my eyes are crossed from reading this beast of a thread…. Will the M2 forend fit on any of the older chassis? If so is it possible to get just the M2 forend?
It will not fit. The A2 has the top rail milled into the receiver and that is passed into the handguard. The M2 is a bolt on and doesn't have this notch. This is what desert tech told me
 
It will not fit. The A2 has the top rail milled into the receiver and that is passed into the handguard. The M2 is a bolt on and doesn't have this notch. This is what desert tech told me
Yea I figured this out and ended up grabbing a M2 chassis from Europtic. Now I need a 308/6.5 bolt…. If anyone has one hit me up!
 
Question: do the A1 barrels fit the A2/M2 chassis? I have an A1 with 2 barrels, thinking of upgrading to the the M2 but I got such a good deal on my 338 Norma barrel, I’d like to keep it. I’d definitely lose money if I had to repurchase it.
 
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Feel like a real dummy. Bought this 6.5x47 with less than 200rds through it planning to have it rebored/rechambered because it’d be cheaper in the long run versus having a new barrel made. It was shipped back to me and the guy said he decided he didn’t want to tackle that project. Have zero use for this cartridge so was gonna mention it here before it gets pasted everywhere. 700tyd
For sale posts require upgrading to supporter.
 
I am curious about the difference. From what I read the srsa2 reduces weight by 2.1lbs due to the fluted barrel, no monopod, and chassis lightening cuts. If you have an srsa1 you can have all the above except for the lightening cuts in the chassis. What is the ACTUAL weight difference between the chassis with everything else being equal? I couldn’t imagine a bit less material in the chassis amounting to much over 1/2 lb but maybe I’m wrong.

Lots of discussion about the weight and everyone seems to post what their complete rifle weighs. That’s helpful to the point where someone needs to hit a 16lb restriction.

Here’s my take:
A1 Covert Chassis + Skins, monopod removed: 4 lb 8 oz
Buttpad, no spacers: 7 oz
Buttpad spacer, each: 2.6 oz
A1 Bolt, “308”: 12.2 oz
A2 Bolt, “308”: 12.0 oz
SA 6 Rd Mag, empty: 6.5 oz
Monopod: 5.6 oz
RRS ARCA Plate: 6.2 oz
ARC M10 QD-L 30mm mount: 8.5 oz

260 Rem barrel, fluted barrel and tenon, 27”, .920 muzzle with Area 419 adapter: 5 lb 4 oz

300 Win Mag barrel, non fluted, 27”, .850 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 5 lb 1 oz

6xc barrel, non fluted, 27”, .875 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 5 lb 5 oz

308 barrel, non fluted, 17”, .890 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 3 lb 8 oz

450 Bushmaster barrel, non fluted, 23”, .920 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 4 lb 6 oz

260 Rem barrel, non fluted, 19”, .875 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 4 lb 6 oz

Add up what you’ll need, pick your rings/mount, add your scope weight and total weight of ammo and you should be good.
The A2 chassis saves about a pound, so hopefully someone else can post the exact weight with the bolt, buttpad, magazine removed.
 
Perfect Conditions today...

Shot at 1 mile ( 1760yds) with the 375CT and the 300WM..

2400yds with the 375CT......... 6 shots fired and 3 hits on the 34" plate... :)

Using 390gr Hornady A-Tips with the 375 and 225 Hornady ELD-M,s with thE 300WM..
 

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Question for the group:
Anyone ever see primer indentation on ejected live rounds?
Was on my Newfie moose hunt and was ejecting the 338 LM (Hornady precision hunter, stock desert tech conversion) and noted the live round had a tiny mark on the primer. Not a strike, just an minute indent. Trying to recall if the firing pin is free floating.
 
Question for the group:
Anyone ever see primer indentation on ejected live rounds?
Was on my Newfie moose hunt and was ejecting the 338 LM (Hornady precision hunter, stock desert tech conversion) and noted the live round had a tiny mark on the primer. Not a strike, just an minute indent. Trying to recall if the firing pin is free floating.
My 338 Norma has a firing pin that floats so free I can hear it slide back and forth when I tip the bolt up and down. My .260 bolt is tighter and does not do that. If yours is really tight, perhaps it would leave a mark.
 
Question for the group:
Anyone ever see primer indentation on ejected live rounds?
Was on my Newfie moose hunt and was ejecting the 338 LM (Hornady precision hunter, stock desert tech conversion) and noted the live round had a tiny mark on the primer. Not a strike, just an minute indent. Trying to recall if the firing pin is free floating.

Yes, free floating firing pin.
 
I gathered as such. Can’t recall hearing my 338 bolt rattle at all, but gathered. Always have muzzle discipline and the like, but it was a “hmm… I don’t like seeing that indentation there”.

Is the indentation repeatable or was it a one off?

Was that the first round chambered after storage and do you store your rifle with bolt closed and decocked?

How cold was it at the time and what/if anything do you use as bolt lube?

See where I'm going with this?

If you're concerned about it, you cold disassemble the bolt and give it a clean out to satisfy yourself that all is well. Though unlikely, there could be/had have been something gumming up the firing pin in the forward position.
 
Is the indentation repeatable or was it a one off?

Was that the first round chambered after storage and do you store your rifle with bolt closed and decocked?

How cold was it at the time and what/if anything do you use as bolt lube?

See where I'm going with this?

If you're concerned about it, you cold disassemble the bolt and give it a clean out to satisfy yourself that all is well. Though unlikely, there could be/had have been something gumming up the firing pin in the forward position.
I get ya

I’ll work through a bit and see.

Truth told, I don’t usually cycle the bolt until ready to fire. Typically I’m not setting up snap shots in dense woods; usually glassing a broad area and working a range card out to 800yds for live game. So haven’t ran through ejection of live rounds to see if it’s repeatable.
Saw it on rounds I had extracted after chambering and walking around on “safe.” Granted, had also been tossing the rifle in and out of Argos and Side by sides all day too.

Typical practice but one where I always chin-scratched.
 
Does anyone have feeding issues with the SRSA2 short action 10 round mags? The mags themselves feel very loose in the rifle itself and I have to shift the mag to get rounds to feed on the .308 Winchester. I purchased the magazines brande new about a year ago. Anyone have any tips to fix this or is this just par for the course?
 
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Does anyone have feeding issues with the SRSA2 short action 10 round mags? The mags themselves feel very loose in the rifle itself and I have to shift the mag to get rounds to feed on the .308 Winchester. I purchased the magazines brande new about a year ago. Anyone have any tips to fix this or is this just par for the course?
Check torque on your skins. It may help matters.